Friday, 31 May - St Julian's
I am going to have to write my blog twice daily because so much is happening each day that I cannot tell you everything in one sitting. I just have to start today's write-up with last night's cataclysm - Peter doing his laundry. You'll be interested in that. Just before retiring for the night, Peter felt a strong urge to do his laundry. Pretty simple really. Just pop the knickers in the machine and go to bed. No worries. After awhile I noticed the street lights reflecting on the tiled floor. Pretty. But why hadn't I noticed this feature any previous night? Because it was a water feature. Why would we suddenly have a water feature? Because we have water. By now you will have guessed the cause of the problem, the washing machine. So I had to ring the owner. There was nothing in our unit to cope with a flood. About 15 minutes later a sleepy--eyed landlord turned up to discover the pipe had become detached from the drain. And thus he met his current guests. Peter thoroughly enjoyed sitting chatting to Mark while he fixed the washing machine and soaked up his flooded property.
And now to today's full day tour entitled "The Second World War in Malta & its British History (1798 - 1979)" . This tour is only available once a week so we were extremely fortunate to be in town on a Friday. There were 12 tourists and our guide Vincent who is Maltese. Our tour began in the Vittoriosa Museum and commemorated the 3,000 sailors who were killed in this very harbour area. I had read the Nicolas Monserrat book "The Kapillan of Malta" (thanks Josephine) and also "Operation Mincemeat" which are essential background reading to be able to appreciate the tour. However, how different it was to walk through these catacombs which were air raid shelters for 500 people at a time for between 2 hours to 5 days. Residents had 8 minutes to grab what they could once the sirens started and get themselves into sub-terrainian safety. The critical thing to take was a bucket as the original residents of the catacombs did not require toilet facilities. And remember, most air attacks were during the night. Our wonderful tour guide Ruth explained the myriad of human problems that arose during the long periods of incarceration. The birth rate doubled during this time so a birthing room had to be scraped out of the limestone caves. Many thousands of people died purely because of disease. Food was rationed increasingly to 1 slice of bread per day per person.
We then were taken into Valetta for a walking tour through some of the streets and much information was given to us about the Knights of St John who came to Malta in 1530. Then we heard the complicated history from then to today. Fascinating. So different being on location listening to it and seeing the stunning portrayal in the Museum.
And another paragraph needs to be written about the wing of the Museum devoted to the unbelievable arrival of the SS Ohio in 1942 just days before Malta was going to surrender. It was the bravery of her captain and surviving crew who sailed into Valetta with life-saving supplies of fuel and food, thus allowing the remaining Maltese to continue their fight to victory. WHAT a story
It's no wonder that King George awarded the George Cross the all residents of Malta on April 15 1942.
There is so much more I could share with you, but you will just have to come and experience it all for yourself. It's looking as if it 9 days here are going to be inadequate.
Friday 31 May 2019
Thursday 30 May 2019
Thursday 30 May - Camino Island
We have anchored here so that hordes of young fit people from every sector of the globe can climb , swim, snorkel , jet boat, to their hearts content for an hour before reboarding, cold and very wet for the hour's sail back to Malta. And me? I disembarked, took one look at the steep rocky terrain, and decided I'd sooner have my free glass of wine, and write to you. Peter disembarked , lept over the rocks, took 2 photos of the rocks on the other side, and is now tucked up happy and content with his audio book. I have no idea whether he wakes or sleeps. He's certainly not moving.
We awoke in our cute little b and b in Marsalforn to a cold wet morning, and were very pleased to wander downstairs to a comprehensive Maltese breakfast including gluten free food and 4 types of homemade marmalade. We chattered with a diving man from Switzerland and a French couple. Other guests kept to themselves.
The hop-on-hop-off bus was not scheduled to call in at our stop till 11.00am, but we were there half an hour early. Marsalforn was endearing last evening, but not at all compelling this morning in these conditions.
It was a short trip through to the capital, Rabat, so we disembarked and started our search for this Citadel and that Cathedral. Truly, I have no idea what we should be looking at and which alleyway to choose. None of the imposing buildings with ringing bells were open, so I took some photos of a few, but then settled for a coffee and a gf muffin I was given for breakfast.
A stallholder lured me with his magnificent Maltese lace tablecloths. I had carefully measured my mother-in-law's old table which I still use, had written the measurements closed and extended, had brought a tape measure so was all prepared for my purchase. I had put my preparations in a safe place , and there they remain. In the rain, shortly before our next bus was departing, I just had to guess, pay the happy vendor whatever he asked, and run. Let's hope noone spills beetroot juice on it.
We toured around the western side of Gozo but were nervous about getting off in the rain for photos. Every where we looked was so biblical! We have not experienced anything like it in former travel.
The babble is increasing in our deck of the ferry, as cold wet tourists are returning from their Camino experiences. How can people come in such a variety of guises and make so many different noises? Funnily enough we have been recognized as Kiwis by numbers of people on our tours. I guess because we're the only normal, ordinary people around. One of my funniest experiences today was with 4 Jamaican women in a public toilet. There were 4 toilets but, you guessed it, 3 were out of order, as they always are. Well, these 4 had me in stitches. They were so theatrical and their singing was very Harry Belafonte. They were dressed in full regalia with magnificently beaded braids. I didn't mind the wait at all.
We seem to be moving off, so I'll say Haere ra to Gozo, and thanks for all the fish.
We have anchored here so that hordes of young fit people from every sector of the globe can climb , swim, snorkel , jet boat, to their hearts content for an hour before reboarding, cold and very wet for the hour's sail back to Malta. And me? I disembarked, took one look at the steep rocky terrain, and decided I'd sooner have my free glass of wine, and write to you. Peter disembarked , lept over the rocks, took 2 photos of the rocks on the other side, and is now tucked up happy and content with his audio book. I have no idea whether he wakes or sleeps. He's certainly not moving.
We awoke in our cute little b and b in Marsalforn to a cold wet morning, and were very pleased to wander downstairs to a comprehensive Maltese breakfast including gluten free food and 4 types of homemade marmalade. We chattered with a diving man from Switzerland and a French couple. Other guests kept to themselves.
The hop-on-hop-off bus was not scheduled to call in at our stop till 11.00am, but we were there half an hour early. Marsalforn was endearing last evening, but not at all compelling this morning in these conditions.
It was a short trip through to the capital, Rabat, so we disembarked and started our search for this Citadel and that Cathedral. Truly, I have no idea what we should be looking at and which alleyway to choose. None of the imposing buildings with ringing bells were open, so I took some photos of a few, but then settled for a coffee and a gf muffin I was given for breakfast.
A stallholder lured me with his magnificent Maltese lace tablecloths. I had carefully measured my mother-in-law's old table which I still use, had written the measurements closed and extended, had brought a tape measure so was all prepared for my purchase. I had put my preparations in a safe place , and there they remain. In the rain, shortly before our next bus was departing, I just had to guess, pay the happy vendor whatever he asked, and run. Let's hope noone spills beetroot juice on it.
We toured around the western side of Gozo but were nervous about getting off in the rain for photos. Every where we looked was so biblical! We have not experienced anything like it in former travel.
The babble is increasing in our deck of the ferry, as cold wet tourists are returning from their Camino experiences. How can people come in such a variety of guises and make so many different noises? Funnily enough we have been recognized as Kiwis by numbers of people on our tours. I guess because we're the only normal, ordinary people around. One of my funniest experiences today was with 4 Jamaican women in a public toilet. There were 4 toilets but, you guessed it, 3 were out of order, as they always are. Well, these 4 had me in stitches. They were so theatrical and their singing was very Harry Belafonte. They were dressed in full regalia with magnificently beaded braids. I didn't mind the wait at all.
We seem to be moving off, so I'll say Haere ra to Gozo, and thanks for all the fish.
Wednesday 29 May 2019
Wed 29 May - Gozo
Yes well, I thought if I put Marsalforn as my address you wouldn't know where to find me on the map, but you all know Gozo.
This required a very early start of 6.30am to breakfast, pack and be ready to push our way onto the bus at the main St Julian's centre some blocks away. It's hard to belief this is not yet the tourist season. There are flocks of them already. Some 20 mins later we all tumbled out and found our way to the end of a long queue to board the ferry to carry us the hour and a half trip from Malta to Gozo. The ship takes 400 passengers and is equipped with a bar and nibble nook. There was a long queue there before we set sail but people waited patiently to crack into the alcohol at 10.00am.
The trip (for those of us interested in the picturesque scenery) was splendid, affording different views of historic features that we had seen from the hop-on-hop-off bus. The most spectacular for me was the famed Blue Grotto which was unequaled for its colouring. I had been disappointed not to have time to hop off at this point yesterday, but how much better to float right into it today.
We arrived at the Gozo terminal where most of the day trippers disembarked and packed onto buses to take us to Victoria, the capital, where our driver insisted that EVERYONE must disembark. He would pick us all up at 2.30 to return us to the ferry. NO!!!!! We were bound for Marsalforn for our overnight stay. No, no, no, we must get off. Well, Peter refused. It was only when he took the driver's photo that he relented and said he would allow us to stay on for the drive. All this in full Italian voice with much waving of the hands. So I passively boarded the bus again and we drove off as the only passengers - back to the ferry terminal. UM!!! Now what? This required way more gesticulating and assurance that the lady would come. We didn't want a lady. We wanted to get to Marsalforn . Eventually "the lady" arrived. Hey, she could speak English!!! All we needed to do was pay many more euros in cash and get back onto the bus again and off we would go.That easy. Forget the plastic card. Most suppliers want cash.
This time we found headsets that worked so we could enjoy the commentary - in English. How extremely interesting. What an astounding history. Xagbra has the oldest site of civilization in the world. It is not open to the public for obvious reasons. One in five families in Gozo are involved in the tomato trade. Gozalites are the first peoples recorded as practising crop rotation eg tomatoes are planted after potatoes are havested.
We so wanted to get off at the various tourist spots but actually we needed to get to Marselforn where I had booked our room. It is an old fishing village with a resident population of 750 but a very popular tourist spot with a beautiful sea frontage. Legend has it that St Paul stopped off here on his way from Malta all those years ago. I'm not surprised. It has magnificent beach front restaurant with food to die for, like the meal we are eating right now. A lovely local chardonnay too complements the sea bass.
Yes well, I thought if I put Marsalforn as my address you wouldn't know where to find me on the map, but you all know Gozo.
This required a very early start of 6.30am to breakfast, pack and be ready to push our way onto the bus at the main St Julian's centre some blocks away. It's hard to belief this is not yet the tourist season. There are flocks of them already. Some 20 mins later we all tumbled out and found our way to the end of a long queue to board the ferry to carry us the hour and a half trip from Malta to Gozo. The ship takes 400 passengers and is equipped with a bar and nibble nook. There was a long queue there before we set sail but people waited patiently to crack into the alcohol at 10.00am.
The trip (for those of us interested in the picturesque scenery) was splendid, affording different views of historic features that we had seen from the hop-on-hop-off bus. The most spectacular for me was the famed Blue Grotto which was unequaled for its colouring. I had been disappointed not to have time to hop off at this point yesterday, but how much better to float right into it today.
We arrived at the Gozo terminal where most of the day trippers disembarked and packed onto buses to take us to Victoria, the capital, where our driver insisted that EVERYONE must disembark. He would pick us all up at 2.30 to return us to the ferry. NO!!!!! We were bound for Marsalforn for our overnight stay. No, no, no, we must get off. Well, Peter refused. It was only when he took the driver's photo that he relented and said he would allow us to stay on for the drive. All this in full Italian voice with much waving of the hands. So I passively boarded the bus again and we drove off as the only passengers - back to the ferry terminal. UM!!! Now what? This required way more gesticulating and assurance that the lady would come. We didn't want a lady. We wanted to get to Marsalforn . Eventually "the lady" arrived. Hey, she could speak English!!! All we needed to do was pay many more euros in cash and get back onto the bus again and off we would go.That easy. Forget the plastic card. Most suppliers want cash.
This time we found headsets that worked so we could enjoy the commentary - in English. How extremely interesting. What an astounding history. Xagbra has the oldest site of civilization in the world. It is not open to the public for obvious reasons. One in five families in Gozo are involved in the tomato trade. Gozalites are the first peoples recorded as practising crop rotation eg tomatoes are planted after potatoes are havested.
We so wanted to get off at the various tourist spots but actually we needed to get to Marselforn where I had booked our room. It is an old fishing village with a resident population of 750 but a very popular tourist spot with a beautiful sea frontage. Legend has it that St Paul stopped off here on his way from Malta all those years ago. I'm not surprised. It has magnificent beach front restaurant with food to die for, like the meal we are eating right now. A lovely local chardonnay too complements the sea bass.
Tuesday 28 May 2019
Tuesday 28 May - St Julian's waterfront
I so wish you could join me in this restaurant, sipping your pina colada looking out at the Ioanian Sea at her most tranquil. A cool breeze is blowing but not enough to rock the colorful fishing boats at anchor. There is a relentless flow of tourists strolling along to select the best spot for their pre-dinner cocktails. The sky is still cobalt blue unspoiled by clouds. Hard to realise the devastation that took place just a short 70 years ago. This particular area is well restored with a delightful combination of old architecture and glittering contemporary styles.
Our day started with a visit to our friend Yusef who was delighted to take the bookings for our selected tours. 9 nights are inadequate to do all that is on offer but I think we will know more about the country than we did yesterday.
Yusef escorted us to the central terminal , the hub of all tours. He is very careful of his elderly Kiwis. I rather suspect that he is new on the job as he is conferring with his boss every step of the way. One of my selected tours was of the Aquarium and bird park, but Yusef assured me the birds had run away.
So away we went on the first of our hop-on-hop-off tours of eastern Malta. Our goal was to take photos of St John's Cathedral in Valetta for Josephine who was cruelly barred from this magnificent edifice by a storm which prevented her cruise boat from coming in to berth in Valetta last year. I would not have bothered with the cruisboat crowds and long queues but ,if all she wanted was a photo, I would photograph it. Peter sat and held my backpack and I joined the queue. I thought I'd just nip in, take a couple of shots and whistle out. Well, never ever have I been so wrong. They say to allow 2 hours to view it. Yes. I would agree. It was sensationally magnificent. Thank you Josephine.
By the time we had lunch and missed the next bus, we could not hop off at any other stop, but it was fascinating to absorb the contrasting developments and rebuilding of this part of Malta with its 400,000 residents.
Peter had chosen and booked a night tour of Valetta which only runs on a Tuesday night so here we are waiting for our guided tour back into Valetta. But how different it will be by night. Billions of euros have been poured into the reconstruction of this historic country stretching back tens of thousands of year. And there is so much more to be done.
I so wish you could join me in this restaurant, sipping your pina colada looking out at the Ioanian Sea at her most tranquil. A cool breeze is blowing but not enough to rock the colorful fishing boats at anchor. There is a relentless flow of tourists strolling along to select the best spot for their pre-dinner cocktails. The sky is still cobalt blue unspoiled by clouds. Hard to realise the devastation that took place just a short 70 years ago. This particular area is well restored with a delightful combination of old architecture and glittering contemporary styles.
Our day started with a visit to our friend Yusef who was delighted to take the bookings for our selected tours. 9 nights are inadequate to do all that is on offer but I think we will know more about the country than we did yesterday.
Yusef escorted us to the central terminal , the hub of all tours. He is very careful of his elderly Kiwis. I rather suspect that he is new on the job as he is conferring with his boss every step of the way. One of my selected tours was of the Aquarium and bird park, but Yusef assured me the birds had run away.
So away we went on the first of our hop-on-hop-off tours of eastern Malta. Our goal was to take photos of St John's Cathedral in Valetta for Josephine who was cruelly barred from this magnificent edifice by a storm which prevented her cruise boat from coming in to berth in Valetta last year. I would not have bothered with the cruisboat crowds and long queues but ,if all she wanted was a photo, I would photograph it. Peter sat and held my backpack and I joined the queue. I thought I'd just nip in, take a couple of shots and whistle out. Well, never ever have I been so wrong. They say to allow 2 hours to view it. Yes. I would agree. It was sensationally magnificent. Thank you Josephine.
By the time we had lunch and missed the next bus, we could not hop off at any other stop, but it was fascinating to absorb the contrasting developments and rebuilding of this part of Malta with its 400,000 residents.
Peter had chosen and booked a night tour of Valetta which only runs on a Tuesday night so here we are waiting for our guided tour back into Valetta. But how different it will be by night. Billions of euros have been poured into the reconstruction of this historic country stretching back tens of thousands of year. And there is so much more to be done.
Monday 27 May 2019
Monday 27 May - St Julian's, Malta
Our day began at 3.15 this morning, and clutching our breakfast bag we boarded our taxi at 4.00am. Apparently it takes between 1 hour and 1 1/2 hours to get to the Catania airport but we beat the Monday morning traffic jams. 40 mins and we were there. A great time to travel. Nothing was open at the airport so we looked for somewhere to sit and consume our packed brekkie. Ah, there was dear old Mackers so we settled ourselves in there and logged into their internet. God bless the golden arches with its lights on. A short time thereafter a woman stepped out of the lift and looked absolutely horrified at us. We're not open said she. That's ok said I, we're fine thanks. No, you cannot sit there, said she. We're closed. So where can we sit, said I. I don't know, said she, but not here, whereupon she disappeared and turned the lights off. I don't think the Colonel would be pleased. We certainly weren't. There was absolutely nowhere to sit downstairs in the vast terminal and our check-in didn't open for another hour. However, down we went in the lift again and stood forlornly. Ah-ha, there was a man lifting a roller door of a coffee bar and starting to put out tables and chairs . We were his first customers of the day. And I managed to get a wonderful gluten free brioche thing and a large cup of English breakfast tea steaming hot. Up yours, MacDonalds.
In due course our Air Malta check-in opened and relieved us of 42 kg of luggage and off we went to our lounge. All good. The flight over was 40 mins and so clear. Hopefully you can see Peter's photos of the Island. We walked straight through customs and settled ourselves in that terminal with the essential cappuccinos. Internet was quick and I was able to catch up with my fb photos from yesterday, and letters to friends and family. We had to wait until our Airbnb was cleaned out after the last guests but we were allowed to taxi up to St Julian's to drop our bags off. Excellent.
When we enter a new town we are so bewildered by the strangeness especially here where the whole place is under reconstruction after the WWII annihilation . However, we stumbled across Joseph, (Yussef) an Arabian travel agent who had just enough English to give us lots of tourist brochures and make suggestions for our 9 night visit. He gave us such useful information such as where the best supermarket is, who sells the best garden produce and where to catch the hop-on-hop-off bus. By the time we had an omelette for lunch it was time to return to our cleaned little apartment and go to sleep.
Tonight we strode confidently into the night in search of food (again). Well what a buzz!!!! We found a fabulous restaurant down at the harbour's edge and after the best rabbit stew in red wine sauce, strolled around the magnificent new nightlife centre clutching our gelato.
I think we are going to be very happy in Malta.
Our day began at 3.15 this morning, and clutching our breakfast bag we boarded our taxi at 4.00am. Apparently it takes between 1 hour and 1 1/2 hours to get to the Catania airport but we beat the Monday morning traffic jams. 40 mins and we were there. A great time to travel. Nothing was open at the airport so we looked for somewhere to sit and consume our packed brekkie. Ah, there was dear old Mackers so we settled ourselves in there and logged into their internet. God bless the golden arches with its lights on. A short time thereafter a woman stepped out of the lift and looked absolutely horrified at us. We're not open said she. That's ok said I, we're fine thanks. No, you cannot sit there, said she. We're closed. So where can we sit, said I. I don't know, said she, but not here, whereupon she disappeared and turned the lights off. I don't think the Colonel would be pleased. We certainly weren't. There was absolutely nowhere to sit downstairs in the vast terminal and our check-in didn't open for another hour. However, down we went in the lift again and stood forlornly. Ah-ha, there was a man lifting a roller door of a coffee bar and starting to put out tables and chairs . We were his first customers of the day. And I managed to get a wonderful gluten free brioche thing and a large cup of English breakfast tea steaming hot. Up yours, MacDonalds.
In due course our Air Malta check-in opened and relieved us of 42 kg of luggage and off we went to our lounge. All good. The flight over was 40 mins and so clear. Hopefully you can see Peter's photos of the Island. We walked straight through customs and settled ourselves in that terminal with the essential cappuccinos. Internet was quick and I was able to catch up with my fb photos from yesterday, and letters to friends and family. We had to wait until our Airbnb was cleaned out after the last guests but we were allowed to taxi up to St Julian's to drop our bags off. Excellent.
When we enter a new town we are so bewildered by the strangeness especially here where the whole place is under reconstruction after the WWII annihilation . However, we stumbled across Joseph, (Yussef) an Arabian travel agent who had just enough English to give us lots of tourist brochures and make suggestions for our 9 night visit. He gave us such useful information such as where the best supermarket is, who sells the best garden produce and where to catch the hop-on-hop-off bus. By the time we had an omelette for lunch it was time to return to our cleaned little apartment and go to sleep.
Tonight we strode confidently into the night in search of food (again). Well what a buzz!!!! We found a fabulous restaurant down at the harbour's edge and after the best rabbit stew in red wine sauce, strolled around the magnificent new nightlife centre clutching our gelato.
I think we are going to be very happy in Malta.
Sunday 26 May 2019
Sun 26 May - Taormina River
It had obviously rained during the night, but was not raining until we started walking to the bus and then only a light drizzle. It was 7 degrees C. Totally unseasonal. Of course winter is January/ February in these parts but this year it started snowing the week we arrived. I THOUGHT it was cold. As our bus zigged and zagged through the villages up the mountain there were vestiges of snow. Mt Etna is the largest active volcano in Europe. Today there are 4 1/2 active craters. It is an example of a Strombolian volcano as it has a lot of spectacular high explosions . The last very strong 7.3 earthquake was in 2001 that did considerable damage but there was a smaller one just this last Christmas causing far less damage because of newly introduced building regulations. It has lateral craters as well. On the slopes of this wonderfully fertile landscape grow chestnut trees, broom, pink valerian. Our guide was Vanessa who lives in the highest village of Zefferona where saffron grows. Broom is the symbol of Mt Etna. It is also famed for its honey which is offered in a variety of flavors. The Wildlife on the slopes are wild cats and rabbits, foxes and falcons. There are 2 ski resorts which open for seasons of 2 weeks to 2 months.
We stopped driving at 7,000 ft and disembarked for a coffee at an excellent large centre and it was then that we were hit with a bitterly icy blast and quite heavy rain. The coffee was so welcome and greatly enhanced by their very strong liqueur like drinking fire. I loved it.
We then we were driven a little way down for those who were prepared to brave the elements to view one of the lateral craters but I headed straight for the bar to mingle with the crowds of other tourists. By the time I emerged in search of our group members and bus the clouds had come down creating a whiteout. However it was such a very worthwhile trip contrasting dramatically with any other of our travel experience.
We cautiously zigged and zagged our way down through the clouds to our hotel where we quickly found a restaurant which served real Italian minestrone soup. Superb!!!!!
After a short break, we clambered back onto the coach again and set off to Taormina - known as the Sicilian Monte Carlo - in the pouring rain.
It is a beautiful coastal town with a population of 11,000 people and is financed purely by the thousands of tourist who come year round to experience the Greek Theatre built in 3 BC. Miraculously, as we stepped into the city streets the rain stopped, allowing as to enjoy these spectacular ruins which have been restored sufficiently to stage a season of Greek drama in the summer. The other attraction is the public gardens which overlook the coastline. We then had time to wander through the rabbit warren of of the quaintest city streets all involving steps which were oh so hard on the joints. Definitely cause for large tubs of gelato.
At 6.00pm our dear coach driver took us further along the coast to a splendid castle restaurant for our farewell dinner.
What an exceptional tour that was!!!! Thank you Globus. I can recommend it to all of you but not, repeat NOT in July or August.
It had obviously rained during the night, but was not raining until we started walking to the bus and then only a light drizzle. It was 7 degrees C. Totally unseasonal. Of course winter is January/ February in these parts but this year it started snowing the week we arrived. I THOUGHT it was cold. As our bus zigged and zagged through the villages up the mountain there were vestiges of snow. Mt Etna is the largest active volcano in Europe. Today there are 4 1/2 active craters. It is an example of a Strombolian volcano as it has a lot of spectacular high explosions . The last very strong 7.3 earthquake was in 2001 that did considerable damage but there was a smaller one just this last Christmas causing far less damage because of newly introduced building regulations. It has lateral craters as well. On the slopes of this wonderfully fertile landscape grow chestnut trees, broom, pink valerian. Our guide was Vanessa who lives in the highest village of Zefferona where saffron grows. Broom is the symbol of Mt Etna. It is also famed for its honey which is offered in a variety of flavors. The Wildlife on the slopes are wild cats and rabbits, foxes and falcons. There are 2 ski resorts which open for seasons of 2 weeks to 2 months.
We stopped driving at 7,000 ft and disembarked for a coffee at an excellent large centre and it was then that we were hit with a bitterly icy blast and quite heavy rain. The coffee was so welcome and greatly enhanced by their very strong liqueur like drinking fire. I loved it.
We then we were driven a little way down for those who were prepared to brave the elements to view one of the lateral craters but I headed straight for the bar to mingle with the crowds of other tourists. By the time I emerged in search of our group members and bus the clouds had come down creating a whiteout. However it was such a very worthwhile trip contrasting dramatically with any other of our travel experience.
We cautiously zigged and zagged our way down through the clouds to our hotel where we quickly found a restaurant which served real Italian minestrone soup. Superb!!!!!
After a short break, we clambered back onto the coach again and set off to Taormina - known as the Sicilian Monte Carlo - in the pouring rain.
It is a beautiful coastal town with a population of 11,000 people and is financed purely by the thousands of tourist who come year round to experience the Greek Theatre built in 3 BC. Miraculously, as we stepped into the city streets the rain stopped, allowing as to enjoy these spectacular ruins which have been restored sufficiently to stage a season of Greek drama in the summer. The other attraction is the public gardens which overlook the coastline. We then had time to wander through the rabbit warren of of the quaintest city streets all involving steps which were oh so hard on the joints. Definitely cause for large tubs of gelato.
At 6.00pm our dear coach driver took us further along the coast to a splendid castle restaurant for our farewell dinner.
What an exceptional tour that was!!!! Thank you Globus. I can recommend it to all of you but not, repeat NOT in July or August.
Saturday 25 May 2019
Sat 25 May - Taormina Riviera
Now that I have had the most thrilling Skype call from granddaughter Jay in Illinois, I can settle to writing up our adventures today starting in Catania, which is on the coast of the Ionian Sea. Archaeologists have found sculptures here dating back to the Bronze Age. Of course Catania is dominated by the live Mt Etna known as Mamma Etna which has an outlet at all times
It is when that outlet is blocked that she gets angry and erupts ( so they say). Catania has a population of 3020 and is an extremely fertile region. We did catch a glimpse of her, but she was shrouded in cloud today. Our big morning tour is tomorrow so hopefully she will reveal more of herself close up.
We were taken to the Piazza del Doumo and let loose for shopping. However I happened upon the cutest little motorised guzzi and made his day by hiring him to putter around Catania CBD
It was gaily bedecked in Sicilian fashion and played such catchy tunes. People were filming us, waving and cheering. It was outrageous fun for 45 mins. We saw more Cathedrals and ruins galore but, really, seen one, seen 'em all now. We just enjoyed causing traffic jams and providing photo opportunities for other tourists.
After yet more food and caffe, we boarded our trusty coach and headed for the hills of Savoca up hairpin Mamma Mia roads. We were greeted there by the staff of the Bar Vitelli with a granita and brioche. This would be delightful on a warmer day, but we're too early to do warm.
We then started on the vertical climb to the church of Santa Lucia, famed for its part of Michael Corleone's wedding in The Godfather.
What a stunning vista from this height, despite the inclement conditions.
We then zig-zagged down to our resort on the Taormina Riviera with its own beachfront. I dragged Peter out onto the beach but really, another 10 degrees would have made it a more pleasant experience.
We realise now that we have made a mistake rushing out of this luxurious accommodation at 4am on Monday to catch one of the only two flights to Malta. We had a choice of a 7am flight or 11.55pm. Do we want to sit in Malta airport from 8.00am till 2pm to wait for our Airbnb to be ready for us, or try to make our way to goodness only knows where at 12.55am? Let's not even think about it.
Now that I have had the most thrilling Skype call from granddaughter Jay in Illinois, I can settle to writing up our adventures today starting in Catania, which is on the coast of the Ionian Sea. Archaeologists have found sculptures here dating back to the Bronze Age. Of course Catania is dominated by the live Mt Etna known as Mamma Etna which has an outlet at all times
It is when that outlet is blocked that she gets angry and erupts ( so they say). Catania has a population of 3020 and is an extremely fertile region. We did catch a glimpse of her, but she was shrouded in cloud today. Our big morning tour is tomorrow so hopefully she will reveal more of herself close up.
We were taken to the Piazza del Doumo and let loose for shopping. However I happened upon the cutest little motorised guzzi and made his day by hiring him to putter around Catania CBD
It was gaily bedecked in Sicilian fashion and played such catchy tunes. People were filming us, waving and cheering. It was outrageous fun for 45 mins. We saw more Cathedrals and ruins galore but, really, seen one, seen 'em all now. We just enjoyed causing traffic jams and providing photo opportunities for other tourists.
After yet more food and caffe, we boarded our trusty coach and headed for the hills of Savoca up hairpin Mamma Mia roads. We were greeted there by the staff of the Bar Vitelli with a granita and brioche. This would be delightful on a warmer day, but we're too early to do warm.
We then started on the vertical climb to the church of Santa Lucia, famed for its part of Michael Corleone's wedding in The Godfather.
What a stunning vista from this height, despite the inclement conditions.
We then zig-zagged down to our resort on the Taormina Riviera with its own beachfront. I dragged Peter out onto the beach but really, another 10 degrees would have made it a more pleasant experience.
We realise now that we have made a mistake rushing out of this luxurious accommodation at 4am on Monday to catch one of the only two flights to Malta. We had a choice of a 7am flight or 11.55pm. Do we want to sit in Malta airport from 8.00am till 2pm to wait for our Airbnb to be ready for us, or try to make our way to goodness only knows where at 12.55am? Let's not even think about it.
Friday 24 May 2019
Friday 24 May - Syracuse
I am running a bit behind with my diary entries.I'll cat h up on the remainder of yesterday when we were taken to Modica, renowned for making a unique chocolate without butter or milk. Curious. We watched the process in Sicily's oldest factory, the Dolceria Bonajuto. I was astonished that I liked the couple of samples that I had, only to find out they weren't chocolate at all, but nougat which they also make. Nobody told me.
We had half an hour to fill in before another Siciluan dinner so Peter and I sauntered down the medieval street into a sportswear shop. Peter was approached by a charming Sicilian lass who talked him into buying an elegant suade jacket and matching scarf. Definitely worth a photo shoot with the very smart salesgirl and her sister. By the time he'd had two glasses of vino before dinner he was just the happiest chappy.
I am running a bit behind with my diary entries.I'll cat h up on the remainder of yesterday when we were taken to Modica, renowned for making a unique chocolate without butter or milk. Curious. We watched the process in Sicily's oldest factory, the Dolceria Bonajuto. I was astonished that I liked the couple of samples that I had, only to find out they weren't chocolate at all, but nougat which they also make. Nobody told me.
We had half an hour to fill in before another Siciluan dinner so Peter and I sauntered down the medieval street into a sportswear shop. Peter was approached by a charming Sicilian lass who talked him into buying an elegant suade jacket and matching scarf. Definitely worth a photo shoot with the very smart salesgirl and her sister. By the time he'd had two glasses of vino before dinner he was just the happiest chappy.
This morning dawned bright and clear and off we drove to Noto, yet another beautiful historic centre rebuilt in the early 18th century after the devastating 1693 earthquake. Our guide was one of Sicily's most famous named SLvatore. Oh how it suited him. He is doing three tours with us today morning in Noto, afternoon in the archaeological site of Syracuse and this evening in Ortigia Island housing the Apollo temple, the oldest Doric Temple in Sicily. This to be followed by yet another pizza feast. I'll have to stop here to change for the evening.
Thursday 23 May 2019
Thurs 23 May - Ragusa
We're only half way through today but I must share Ragusa with you. This city suffered a massive earthquake in 1693 which wiped out half its population. It has been rebuilt in Baroque style and consists of two cities, Upper and Lower Ragusa built on two mountains. It is upper Ragusa Ibla which is the UNESCO world Heritage site . Ragusa is a very wealthy area with a population of 73,000. It derives its income from Agricilture and tourism. It has its own University
and becomes a movie set every spring for the filming of a popular detective series (which I gave not heard of).
Our local guide Barbara introduced us to the beautiful Giardini Iblei gardens from which we could clearly see the two cities with the wide valley in between where the main dividing river runs. The impressive driveway is lined with imposing palms trees brought over from Africa.
In Ragusa they breed unique red cows which produce the milk from which locals make the famed Formaggi Siciliani cheeses. Also the best wine in all of Italy, Docg is made in Ragusa. Much to my delight they offer gluten free pizzas (for 2 euros extra) so I was able to experience my first Sicilian fruit pizza with a glass of local Chardonnay. However, we did not succumb to the Canola Ragusa. We are still recovering from our Gelato Supremo from Caltagirone yesterday.
Perhaps the highlight for us was the documentary film shown at a theatre which took us through the charm of the Ragusa area, through intense and spectacular images. It was a 30min film making us far more aware of the history and cultural importance of the area.
My tour of this magnificent city ended in spectacular fashion with the arrival of a large, multi-legged flying insect which arrived down my v-necked T shirt to settle inside my bra at the bottom. Nothing for it but to hold the bus while I rushed off to a nearby bagnio in order to strip off and release the monster. Very entertaining for my fellow travellers. Fortunately said flying beast did not bite.
We're only half way through today but I must share Ragusa with you. This city suffered a massive earthquake in 1693 which wiped out half its population. It has been rebuilt in Baroque style and consists of two cities, Upper and Lower Ragusa built on two mountains. It is upper Ragusa Ibla which is the UNESCO world Heritage site . Ragusa is a very wealthy area with a population of 73,000. It derives its income from Agricilture and tourism. It has its own University
and becomes a movie set every spring for the filming of a popular detective series (which I gave not heard of).
Our local guide Barbara introduced us to the beautiful Giardini Iblei gardens from which we could clearly see the two cities with the wide valley in between where the main dividing river runs. The impressive driveway is lined with imposing palms trees brought over from Africa.
In Ragusa they breed unique red cows which produce the milk from which locals make the famed Formaggi Siciliani cheeses. Also the best wine in all of Italy, Docg is made in Ragusa. Much to my delight they offer gluten free pizzas (for 2 euros extra) so I was able to experience my first Sicilian fruit pizza with a glass of local Chardonnay. However, we did not succumb to the Canola Ragusa. We are still recovering from our Gelato Supremo from Caltagirone yesterday.
Perhaps the highlight for us was the documentary film shown at a theatre which took us through the charm of the Ragusa area, through intense and spectacular images. It was a 30min film making us far more aware of the history and cultural importance of the area.
My tour of this magnificent city ended in spectacular fashion with the arrival of a large, multi-legged flying insect which arrived down my v-necked T shirt to settle inside my bra at the bottom. Nothing for it but to hold the bus while I rushed off to a nearby bagnio in order to strip off and release the monster. Very entertaining for my fellow travellers. Fortunately said flying beast did not bite.
Wednesday 22 May 2019
Wed 22 May - Ragusa
Before we get to today, I must tell you about our dreadful accommodation in Agrigento. It was all show and no go. Definitely a case of all that glitters is not gold. We first encountered its deficiencies when we got to our room. It was totally prohibitive to a night's sleep. Others of our group had worse tales to tell with rooms that had no windows or ventilation of any sort. All the beds were far worse than imaginable. One wing smelt of sewage and the showers were too small for more than a foot wash. Globus will definitely be hearing about this misery.
We were so relieved to get out of this beautiful looking place, say Andiamo (let's go) and do the 2 hour drive to Piazza Armerina to visit another UNESCO site, Villa Romana Del Casale. To reach this we drove through vast areas of olives, oranges and grapes which were covered by netting - whole hillsides of netting. The motorway went up 3,000ft above sea level to the highest city of the Apernine range.
Here we disembarked from the coach to meet our new local guide who took us through a vast Roman hunting lodge thought to be built in the 4th century AD and lived in until it was buried in a mudslide in the 12th century. It was discovered in 1950 and is being restored. The remarkable feature of the huge villa is the use of mosaics on all the flooring. Each area has a theme and the floor is decorated with appropriate mosaics, the most famous of which are the "bikini girls" in the women's gymnasium. We were spellbound for a couple of hours while our guide told us the history and culture of the times. Although I am concerned over the cost of this trip, I can see the value of the experienced commentary. So many tourists were just trotting around having no idea of what they were looking at.
After lunch we were bussed to Caltagirone which means the City of Jars, another UNESCO site famous for its ceramics. The building feature is the Staircase of Santa Maria Del Monte which boasts 146 steps, each face with a contrasting design leading from the piazza straight up to the magnificent cathedral -- which I can tell you nothing about because Peter and I preferred to sit in an equally magnificent ristorante at the bottom and indulge in a decadent gelato fantasy. We were delighted to be driven around the historic city in an open-sided train with 8 little carriages each seating 6 people. Such outrageous fun.
From there it was a short coach trip to Ragusa where we are staying for 2 nights. The conditions are far superior and we fully expect to enjoy our nights' sleep. The dinner was infinitely better.
Before we get to today, I must tell you about our dreadful accommodation in Agrigento. It was all show and no go. Definitely a case of all that glitters is not gold. We first encountered its deficiencies when we got to our room. It was totally prohibitive to a night's sleep. Others of our group had worse tales to tell with rooms that had no windows or ventilation of any sort. All the beds were far worse than imaginable. One wing smelt of sewage and the showers were too small for more than a foot wash. Globus will definitely be hearing about this misery.
We were so relieved to get out of this beautiful looking place, say Andiamo (let's go) and do the 2 hour drive to Piazza Armerina to visit another UNESCO site, Villa Romana Del Casale. To reach this we drove through vast areas of olives, oranges and grapes which were covered by netting - whole hillsides of netting. The motorway went up 3,000ft above sea level to the highest city of the Apernine range.
Here we disembarked from the coach to meet our new local guide who took us through a vast Roman hunting lodge thought to be built in the 4th century AD and lived in until it was buried in a mudslide in the 12th century. It was discovered in 1950 and is being restored. The remarkable feature of the huge villa is the use of mosaics on all the flooring. Each area has a theme and the floor is decorated with appropriate mosaics, the most famous of which are the "bikini girls" in the women's gymnasium. We were spellbound for a couple of hours while our guide told us the history and culture of the times. Although I am concerned over the cost of this trip, I can see the value of the experienced commentary. So many tourists were just trotting around having no idea of what they were looking at.
After lunch we were bussed to Caltagirone which means the City of Jars, another UNESCO site famous for its ceramics. The building feature is the Staircase of Santa Maria Del Monte which boasts 146 steps, each face with a contrasting design leading from the piazza straight up to the magnificent cathedral -- which I can tell you nothing about because Peter and I preferred to sit in an equally magnificent ristorante at the bottom and indulge in a decadent gelato fantasy. We were delighted to be driven around the historic city in an open-sided train with 8 little carriages each seating 6 people. Such outrageous fun.
From there it was a short coach trip to Ragusa where we are staying for 2 nights. The conditions are far superior and we fully expect to enjoy our nights' sleep. The dinner was infinitely better.
Tuesday 21 May 2019
Tues 21 May - Agrigento
We thoroughly appreciated our later departure from our luxury resort. I suspect that will be the pick of it for our whole tour. Good while it lasted.
The drive through to Sciacca (Shukker) treated us to countryside producing grapes, oranges and olives the like of which I have never experienced. I quite like olives in NZ but they pale into insignificance compared with real Sicilian olives, as do tomatoes. Italian wine differs from the French in that it has no added sugar. The sweetness comes from the sun. The Sciacca population is 51,000 and is famed for its springs to which people come for therapeutic treatment. There is a very high immigration population here. Today is the first that has indicated the famed Mediterranean warmth. Not hot at all but no puffer jacket required. We had a delightful couple of hours wandering the picturesque town and sampling cappuccino and ricotta delicacies. Live, laugh and forget the kilos. We found a museum (well, Peter did) and admired a well preserved Sicillian homestead of a wealthy family.
On we drove to the UNESCO site of Agrigento famed for its Valley of the temples. 27 years ago I was lucky enough to visit the Acropolis with my friends Glen and Laurie. Agrigento has the Temple of Concordia which dates from the 5th century BC and is in better repair. I am sure that this would look more spectacular with the flood lights which are set up. We had dazzling sunlight instead. Our guide Claudio was a splendid Sicilian man born in these parts who gave us such a detailed historical background punctuated by his dry sense of humour. Any time he stopped talking he burst into song. He was a comprehensive entertainment on his own quite apart from the awe-inspiring surroundings. It is miraculous that these gigantic yet graceful structures have survived 24 centuries of tormented history. Some of our travel group of 39 people (mainly Americans) have done Italy and Sicily before but have returned purely for today's spectacle. Once again Josephine for telling us we just HAD to come on this particular Globus tour. You're right. I'll pass your advice on to other friends.
Then we came to the Agrigento goats. What splendid beasts they are with their long shaggy coats and their unique huge horns shaped like corkscrews.
Our accommodation tonight is a poor relation to last night's, but hey, you can't have it all. Perhaps the food will be good.
We thoroughly appreciated our later departure from our luxury resort. I suspect that will be the pick of it for our whole tour. Good while it lasted.
The drive through to Sciacca (Shukker) treated us to countryside producing grapes, oranges and olives the like of which I have never experienced. I quite like olives in NZ but they pale into insignificance compared with real Sicilian olives, as do tomatoes. Italian wine differs from the French in that it has no added sugar. The sweetness comes from the sun. The Sciacca population is 51,000 and is famed for its springs to which people come for therapeutic treatment. There is a very high immigration population here. Today is the first that has indicated the famed Mediterranean warmth. Not hot at all but no puffer jacket required. We had a delightful couple of hours wandering the picturesque town and sampling cappuccino and ricotta delicacies. Live, laugh and forget the kilos. We found a museum (well, Peter did) and admired a well preserved Sicillian homestead of a wealthy family.
On we drove to the UNESCO site of Agrigento famed for its Valley of the temples. 27 years ago I was lucky enough to visit the Acropolis with my friends Glen and Laurie. Agrigento has the Temple of Concordia which dates from the 5th century BC and is in better repair. I am sure that this would look more spectacular with the flood lights which are set up. We had dazzling sunlight instead. Our guide Claudio was a splendid Sicilian man born in these parts who gave us such a detailed historical background punctuated by his dry sense of humour. Any time he stopped talking he burst into song. He was a comprehensive entertainment on his own quite apart from the awe-inspiring surroundings. It is miraculous that these gigantic yet graceful structures have survived 24 centuries of tormented history. Some of our travel group of 39 people (mainly Americans) have done Italy and Sicily before but have returned purely for today's spectacle. Once again Josephine for telling us we just HAD to come on this particular Globus tour. You're right. I'll pass your advice on to other friends.
Then we came to the Agrigento goats. What splendid beasts they are with their long shaggy coats and their unique huge horns shaped like corkscrews.
Our accommodation tonight is a poor relation to last night's, but hey, you can't have it all. Perhaps the food will be good.
Monday 20 May 2019
Monday 20 May - Marsala
First, you need to know that when we turned up 30 mins before the puppet show last night, we were greeted by a sign which Google translated to Next show 2 June. So, once again we had no choice but to order a vino rosso ( or 2) and a pizza and a risotto, and sit and watch the crowds of Sicilians strutting their stuff along the main street which had been cordoned off for the purpose. All the human puppets were even more fascinating than any manufactured doll.
This morning bags needed to be outside the door before 7am and travellers breakfasted and ready to board our coach by 8am.
Away we rolled on the motorway through Capaci where there are two magnificent monuments to Judges Falcone and Borsoline who were assassinated by the Mafia on 23 May 1992. Falcone is going through the deification process to become another patron saint of Sicily.
We wound our way slowly through Mamma Mia roads up 2,100ft to the hilltop town of Erice - such a pretty little oh- so-Sicilian town built into the hillside. The gastronomic feature there was the Pasticceria Maria Grammatico where we were served with a platter of traditional almond biscuits (all of which I could eat) and a glass of Marsala wine washed down by a cappuccino. We continued our climb by foot to view the 5th century Norman castle which looked so Peter Jackson in the swirling mists.
After a breath-stopping descent in our coach we went on to view one of the traditional salt mills and learn the specialist process of making salt.
I shall never take our salt for granted again. A small flat-bottomed ferry took us to an island where there is a vast collection of findings from the Phonoecian period, the most treasured of which is a more-than-life-sized marble statue of a charioteer estimated to be dated 5BC. So much of the stuff was in perfect condition.
We had 1 1/2hours to explore the island before the boat trip back to our coach for a 2 hour drive to our luxurious Giardino Di Costanza Resort. Oh my!!!! We have adapted to this very quickly.
As I said in yesterday's blog, my email and Facebook are malfunctioning, so you are better to use mgcaisley@gmail.com for any catch-up on the home news. I seem to be able to get single photos on to fb by going through Instagram. Go figure. Peter is having no trouble at all and is tagging his photos hoping that my friends will get them. All very curious.
First, you need to know that when we turned up 30 mins before the puppet show last night, we were greeted by a sign which Google translated to Next show 2 June. So, once again we had no choice but to order a vino rosso ( or 2) and a pizza and a risotto, and sit and watch the crowds of Sicilians strutting their stuff along the main street which had been cordoned off for the purpose. All the human puppets were even more fascinating than any manufactured doll.
This morning bags needed to be outside the door before 7am and travellers breakfasted and ready to board our coach by 8am.
Away we rolled on the motorway through Capaci where there are two magnificent monuments to Judges Falcone and Borsoline who were assassinated by the Mafia on 23 May 1992. Falcone is going through the deification process to become another patron saint of Sicily.
We wound our way slowly through Mamma Mia roads up 2,100ft to the hilltop town of Erice - such a pretty little oh- so-Sicilian town built into the hillside. The gastronomic feature there was the Pasticceria Maria Grammatico where we were served with a platter of traditional almond biscuits (all of which I could eat) and a glass of Marsala wine washed down by a cappuccino. We continued our climb by foot to view the 5th century Norman castle which looked so Peter Jackson in the swirling mists.
After a breath-stopping descent in our coach we went on to view one of the traditional salt mills and learn the specialist process of making salt.
I shall never take our salt for granted again. A small flat-bottomed ferry took us to an island where there is a vast collection of findings from the Phonoecian period, the most treasured of which is a more-than-life-sized marble statue of a charioteer estimated to be dated 5BC. So much of the stuff was in perfect condition.
We had 1 1/2hours to explore the island before the boat trip back to our coach for a 2 hour drive to our luxurious Giardino Di Costanza Resort. Oh my!!!! We have adapted to this very quickly.
As I said in yesterday's blog, my email and Facebook are malfunctioning, so you are better to use mgcaisley@gmail.com for any catch-up on the home news. I seem to be able to get single photos on to fb by going through Instagram. Go figure. Peter is having no trouble at all and is tagging his photos hoping that my friends will get them. All very curious.
Sunday 19 May 2019
Sunday 19 May - Palermo
It was exciting to meet with our group and guide last night. This morning we were relieved to be able to board our coach and start to soak up the wonderful commentary provided by one of the Sicilian women involved in over-throwing the power of the Mafia gang. She is such a highly educated woman.
First we drove to Monreale to visit the 12th century Norman Cathedral famous for its 15240 square meters of precious byzantine mosaics. The organ is the largest in Europe with its 1080 pipes. May is the popular month for Sicilian children to take their first communion so we were fortunate enough to witness proud families arriving with their youngsters dressed all in white. We had to leave before the service started but then we drove back into the capital with its population of 1 million to the magnificent Cathedral which allowed tourists into the spectacular communion service with its up-lifting choral tributes. It was packed with adoring families gathered together for this festive occasion for which the dress code was straight from Milan.
It was so interesting to be driven around the inner City CBD which we had visited, but this time with the accompanying commentary. And that is why we pay thousands more dollars to understand the countries we have chosen to visit. So rewarding.
We gathered in the baroque Church of Immacolata where our guide felt safe revealing the part she is playing in the struggle to crack the Mafia. Particularly interesting to me Josephine after completing the literature you recommended. Thank you.
By then we were back in the Capo Market which we found so challenging on our first day in this country. After wandering through a little of it we gathered at tables set aside for us to experience authentic Sicillian specialties such as panelle, arancini and cannoli, all washed down with red and white wine of course. A splendid Sunday lunch.
The rest of the group is being taken to a banquet in a Royal household tonight, but we opted out and went instead for a tour of the Teatro Massimo, the Opera House we have walked past so often but not been inside. Tonight we are still hoping to experience the Puppet Theatre.
I am so very sorry that my Facebook photos are not reaching you. I have put a couple on Instagram and Peter is tagging some of my friends on his fb entries which are in perfect working order. I must have pushed something as I am neither sending or receiving emails. Gmail is all I can use. Only a techie geek would be able to retrieve the access for me.
It was exciting to meet with our group and guide last night. This morning we were relieved to be able to board our coach and start to soak up the wonderful commentary provided by one of the Sicilian women involved in over-throwing the power of the Mafia gang. She is such a highly educated woman.
First we drove to Monreale to visit the 12th century Norman Cathedral famous for its 15240 square meters of precious byzantine mosaics. The organ is the largest in Europe with its 1080 pipes. May is the popular month for Sicilian children to take their first communion so we were fortunate enough to witness proud families arriving with their youngsters dressed all in white. We had to leave before the service started but then we drove back into the capital with its population of 1 million to the magnificent Cathedral which allowed tourists into the spectacular communion service with its up-lifting choral tributes. It was packed with adoring families gathered together for this festive occasion for which the dress code was straight from Milan.
It was so interesting to be driven around the inner City CBD which we had visited, but this time with the accompanying commentary. And that is why we pay thousands more dollars to understand the countries we have chosen to visit. So rewarding.
We gathered in the baroque Church of Immacolata where our guide felt safe revealing the part she is playing in the struggle to crack the Mafia. Particularly interesting to me Josephine after completing the literature you recommended. Thank you.
By then we were back in the Capo Market which we found so challenging on our first day in this country. After wandering through a little of it we gathered at tables set aside for us to experience authentic Sicillian specialties such as panelle, arancini and cannoli, all washed down with red and white wine of course. A splendid Sunday lunch.
The rest of the group is being taken to a banquet in a Royal household tonight, but we opted out and went instead for a tour of the Teatro Massimo, the Opera House we have walked past so often but not been inside. Tonight we are still hoping to experience the Puppet Theatre.
I am so very sorry that my Facebook photos are not reaching you. I have put a couple on Instagram and Peter is tagging some of my friends on his fb entries which are in perfect working order. I must have pushed something as I am neither sending or receiving emails. Gmail is all I can use. Only a techie geek would be able to retrieve the access for me.
Saturday 18 May 2019
Saturday afternoon 18 May Palermo
I thought I'd write up today's adventures now that we've returned to prepare for our Globus meet-and-greet dinner this evening. We managed to locate the Antonio Pasqualino International Puppet Museum which is on the other side of town from the closed theatre we discovered yesterday. Palermo is a rabbit warren of un-sign-posted narrow alleyways, so the fact that we have located anything is astonishing. But this Museum did have a sign that I happened to spot in the distance and it was going to open at 10.00am. As the clock struck, the curator turned up and let us in. Not another soul was around at that very early hour so we had this whole collection to ourselves - 4,000 of them. What an extraordinary experience. The Museum was founded in 1975 and houses puppets from Greece, Africa, New Hebrides, Vietnam, China, Japan, India , Bali, Java as well as throughout Italy. I do so hope we can manage to get to a show at the Theatre tomorrow evening.
The Botanic Gardens lay a few blocks away and en route we happened into a ristorante which turned out to be the local TAB. THAT was an experience in itself but I managed to acquire some drinkable caffeine lattes. We were so very out of place but they took our money.
The Gardens were peaceful but such a poor comparison of what we regard as normal. So many statues but most were desecrated to some degree. There was a woeful lack of maintenance as there is throughout the town.
By then it was lunchtime so I cobbled together enough of my fridge Italian to get a copious salad with their signature tomatoes. Somehow I got a toasted ham roll as well. I wonder what words resulted in that. Never mind, all up it was only 8 Euros together with a bottle of sparkling water and 6 little bread rolls.
Our next challenge was to get back to our hotel via the railway station. YES!!! We're getting it together now just as we join the tour and don't have to think again for a week.
Time for a recuperative snooze before we have to get glammed up for our introductory dinner.
I thought I'd write up today's adventures now that we've returned to prepare for our Globus meet-and-greet dinner this evening. We managed to locate the Antonio Pasqualino International Puppet Museum which is on the other side of town from the closed theatre we discovered yesterday. Palermo is a rabbit warren of un-sign-posted narrow alleyways, so the fact that we have located anything is astonishing. But this Museum did have a sign that I happened to spot in the distance and it was going to open at 10.00am. As the clock struck, the curator turned up and let us in. Not another soul was around at that very early hour so we had this whole collection to ourselves - 4,000 of them. What an extraordinary experience. The Museum was founded in 1975 and houses puppets from Greece, Africa, New Hebrides, Vietnam, China, Japan, India , Bali, Java as well as throughout Italy. I do so hope we can manage to get to a show at the Theatre tomorrow evening.
The Botanic Gardens lay a few blocks away and en route we happened into a ristorante which turned out to be the local TAB. THAT was an experience in itself but I managed to acquire some drinkable caffeine lattes. We were so very out of place but they took our money.
The Gardens were peaceful but such a poor comparison of what we regard as normal. So many statues but most were desecrated to some degree. There was a woeful lack of maintenance as there is throughout the town.
By then it was lunchtime so I cobbled together enough of my fridge Italian to get a copious salad with their signature tomatoes. Somehow I got a toasted ham roll as well. I wonder what words resulted in that. Never mind, all up it was only 8 Euros together with a bottle of sparkling water and 6 little bread rolls.
Our next challenge was to get back to our hotel via the railway station. YES!!! We're getting it together now just as we join the tour and don't have to think again for a week.
Time for a recuperative snooze before we have to get glammed up for our introductory dinner.
Saturday 18 May - Palermo
Friday was the day that we were resolved to locate the tourist information centre and discover all the attractions this cold wet city had to offer. We had found the signs pointing to it but no centre was to be seen. There is no concierge service at our up-market hotel, so we wandered from person to person asking for directions , followed them and got to nothing. Ah, a polizia! He'll know. Yes, walk back to where we'd come from, past 2 lots of traffic lights and turn left. Grazia. By then we were nearing half our daily 10,000 step recommendation. What we were seeking was the Hop-on hop-off bus station. We could see the buses but no stops. Eventually I spotted an i-sign on a little wooden booth on the kerbsite. And that turned out to be it. A little man sat in a little sentry box with his window shut. We knocked on the window which he slid open reluctantly. Parla inglese? He looked doubtful so I showed him the bus brochure which he looked at and pointed over the road. No sign of any other printed material and of course I didn't know what else to ask for. We have no idea how lucky we are in NZ. No signage at the bus stop, so having nothing better to do, we stood there. Very eventually a bus arrived and we hopped on. By then the skies had cleared and we saw Palermo in its historic splendour. The English commentary worked intermittently and was punctuated by Verdi. Extremely pleasant. The passengers in the front disembarked and we did the circuit again travelling first class.
We have now found a lunch provider comparable to our Tank which serves real NZ style coffee so we returned there before doing the blue-line bus route which was not as interesting but meant we have covered the city.
So completed the circuit, discovered a couple who live in Milford, caught up with their travel, had a proper gelato each and came back to the hotel. It was nap time for Peter and serious shopping for me to find a little Italian leather coat which I'm told will be much cheaper in Sicily than Italy. I can believe that. Sicily's funds are obviously siphoned off elsewhere.
After laboriously entering every clothing shop and trying on every possible garment I wore myself out and returned to my hotel. There on the corner was an un-visited shop which housed my little red leather Italian jacket, not even made in China like everything else. Very happily I bought that and the extra jumper the gorgeous shop assistant assured me was perfecto and walked into our hotel.
I had been searching for the Sicilian Puppet theatre which we eventually stumbled across, but which only played at weekends, and Peter had been searching for the Sicilian equivalent of our MOTAT which only opens weekdays. Nothing for it but to wander the main street, watching the passing parade of elegantly dressed Sicilians while sipping vino rossa.
Let's see what we can find today before joining our Globus tour tonight for a formal dinner to which I can wear my newly acquired black jumper bedecked with red sequins.
Friday was the day that we were resolved to locate the tourist information centre and discover all the attractions this cold wet city had to offer. We had found the signs pointing to it but no centre was to be seen. There is no concierge service at our up-market hotel, so we wandered from person to person asking for directions , followed them and got to nothing. Ah, a polizia! He'll know. Yes, walk back to where we'd come from, past 2 lots of traffic lights and turn left. Grazia. By then we were nearing half our daily 10,000 step recommendation. What we were seeking was the Hop-on hop-off bus station. We could see the buses but no stops. Eventually I spotted an i-sign on a little wooden booth on the kerbsite. And that turned out to be it. A little man sat in a little sentry box with his window shut. We knocked on the window which he slid open reluctantly. Parla inglese? He looked doubtful so I showed him the bus brochure which he looked at and pointed over the road. No sign of any other printed material and of course I didn't know what else to ask for. We have no idea how lucky we are in NZ. No signage at the bus stop, so having nothing better to do, we stood there. Very eventually a bus arrived and we hopped on. By then the skies had cleared and we saw Palermo in its historic splendour. The English commentary worked intermittently and was punctuated by Verdi. Extremely pleasant. The passengers in the front disembarked and we did the circuit again travelling first class.
We have now found a lunch provider comparable to our Tank which serves real NZ style coffee so we returned there before doing the blue-line bus route which was not as interesting but meant we have covered the city.
So completed the circuit, discovered a couple who live in Milford, caught up with their travel, had a proper gelato each and came back to the hotel. It was nap time for Peter and serious shopping for me to find a little Italian leather coat which I'm told will be much cheaper in Sicily than Italy. I can believe that. Sicily's funds are obviously siphoned off elsewhere.
After laboriously entering every clothing shop and trying on every possible garment I wore myself out and returned to my hotel. There on the corner was an un-visited shop which housed my little red leather Italian jacket, not even made in China like everything else. Very happily I bought that and the extra jumper the gorgeous shop assistant assured me was perfecto and walked into our hotel.
I had been searching for the Sicilian Puppet theatre which we eventually stumbled across, but which only played at weekends, and Peter had been searching for the Sicilian equivalent of our MOTAT which only opens weekdays. Nothing for it but to wander the main street, watching the passing parade of elegantly dressed Sicilians while sipping vino rossa.
Let's see what we can find today before joining our Globus tour tonight for a formal dinner to which I can wear my newly acquired black jumper bedecked with red sequins.
Thursday 16 May 2019
Thursday 16th - Palermo
After settling into our hotel Frederico II we decided to go for a reconnaissance walk around the block, have a pizza lunch and return at 3.30pm for a nap before going out to a restaurant for our evening meal. Jolly good idea! We woke nicely refreshed - at 2.30am! It was pouring with rain accompanied by thunder and lightning. After some unpacking and sorting we went back to sleep until 8am. Still very cold, but the rain had stopped. Breakfast in the hotel was reasonably successful and off we set with umbrellas and raincoats and jumpers to find the markets and a Church Josephine had recommended. We walked and walked the sodden streets, and suddenly were in Il Capo, Palermo's historic market and all its colorful theatre. VERY entertaining. Italian men in full voice. I bought 1 banana.
After a recuperative caffe, we tackled the hunt for the Chiesa dell'Immacolata Concezione. It very nearly beat us, but by showing a succession of very expressive Italians the photo in our brochure, I found a young woman who could speak enough English to show us we had walked past the doorway 3 times. Ok. In we went, very relieved to be able to sit down and admire the famed Italian artwork. The rest restored our relationship and out we went into some very welcome sunshine into the street we should have walked from the outset. And there were the shops!!!! So if we had turned left instead of right, life would have been much simpler. We'll know that for tomorrow. Fortunately we're here for 5 days before we join our Globus tour so we'll have mastered it by then
After settling into our hotel Frederico II we decided to go for a reconnaissance walk around the block, have a pizza lunch and return at 3.30pm for a nap before going out to a restaurant for our evening meal. Jolly good idea! We woke nicely refreshed - at 2.30am! It was pouring with rain accompanied by thunder and lightning. After some unpacking and sorting we went back to sleep until 8am. Still very cold, but the rain had stopped. Breakfast in the hotel was reasonably successful and off we set with umbrellas and raincoats and jumpers to find the markets and a Church Josephine had recommended. We walked and walked the sodden streets, and suddenly were in Il Capo, Palermo's historic market and all its colorful theatre. VERY entertaining. Italian men in full voice. I bought 1 banana.
After a recuperative caffe, we tackled the hunt for the Chiesa dell'Immacolata Concezione. It very nearly beat us, but by showing a succession of very expressive Italians the photo in our brochure, I found a young woman who could speak enough English to show us we had walked past the doorway 3 times. Ok. In we went, very relieved to be able to sit down and admire the famed Italian artwork. The rest restored our relationship and out we went into some very welcome sunshine into the street we should have walked from the outset. And there were the shops!!!! So if we had turned left instead of right, life would have been much simpler. We'll know that for tomorrow. Fortunately we're here for 5 days before we join our Globus tour so we'll have mastered it by then
Wednesday 15 May 2019
Wednesday 15 May Rome
13 hours later, we have arrived at Rome Airport. Actually, we arrived in Hong Kong 1 hour early, so our plane was supposed to leave 4 hours later, but it was delayed an hour so we had a 5 hour layover
. Hurrah for the business lounge where we could lie down in relative comfort. Then the 14 hour flight which left at 1.30am. Now we have succeeded in getting ourselves to the wrong terminal and ordering cafe latte which is woefully tepid instead of caffe caldo which is hot but black. However my 4 pages of Italian on the fridge door have saved me from a tirade of abuse from the Italian gentleman who tore an Aussie woman to shreds for ordering in Strine. So I plunged into my best rehearsed fridge Italian which sent him into paroxysms of praise. Peter has realised that he is entirely at my mercy except for the Malta reprieve. He has learned Grazie though which will stand him on good stead. Thanks for the entrata and uschita tip off Mark. We hit it as soon as we landed and wouldn't have known whether we were coming or going. It is very cold and wet today. Let's see if Palermo can do better.
13 hours later, we have arrived at Rome Airport. Actually, we arrived in Hong Kong 1 hour early, so our plane was supposed to leave 4 hours later, but it was delayed an hour so we had a 5 hour layover
. Hurrah for the business lounge where we could lie down in relative comfort. Then the 14 hour flight which left at 1.30am. Now we have succeeded in getting ourselves to the wrong terminal and ordering cafe latte which is woefully tepid instead of caffe caldo which is hot but black. However my 4 pages of Italian on the fridge door have saved me from a tirade of abuse from the Italian gentleman who tore an Aussie woman to shreds for ordering in Strine. So I plunged into my best rehearsed fridge Italian which sent him into paroxysms of praise. Peter has realised that he is entirely at my mercy except for the Malta reprieve. He has learned Grazie though which will stand him on good stead. Thanks for the entrata and uschita tip off Mark. We hit it as soon as we landed and wouldn't have known whether we were coming or going. It is very cold and wet today. Let's see if Palermo can do better.
Tuesday 14 May 2019
Tuesday 14th May Hong Kong
We are now reclining in the luxurious Cathay Pacific Lounge in Hong Kong after a superb flight of 10 instead of 11 hours. Nice though it is to have clipped an hour off the flight time, it just means a 4 hour wait for the flight to Rome rather than the scheduled 3 hours. I am certainly not tempted to go airport shopping to acquire Hong Kong junk to up my baggage weight. Business Class with this airline has surpassed our experiences last year with Air NZ and Lufthansa. VERY COMFORTABLE. Not that either of us slept but that was more because of the 1.15pm departure. We'll see what happens for the next leg which is 13 hours. Peter had a flight attendant who fell for him big time. Even brought him bowls of salted caramel popcorn . He had this experience in Shanghai when all the young girls mistook him for Kenny Gee and queued to get their photos with him. He did not reveal his true identity, I noticed.
We are now reclining in the luxurious Cathay Pacific Lounge in Hong Kong after a superb flight of 10 instead of 11 hours. Nice though it is to have clipped an hour off the flight time, it just means a 4 hour wait for the flight to Rome rather than the scheduled 3 hours. I am certainly not tempted to go airport shopping to acquire Hong Kong junk to up my baggage weight. Business Class with this airline has surpassed our experiences last year with Air NZ and Lufthansa. VERY COMFORTABLE. Not that either of us slept but that was more because of the 1.15pm departure. We'll see what happens for the next leg which is 13 hours. Peter had a flight attendant who fell for him big time. Even brought him bowls of salted caramel popcorn . He had this experience in Shanghai when all the young girls mistook him for Kenny Gee and queued to get their photos with him. He did not reveal his true identity, I noticed.
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