Tuesday 18th June - Rome
Today we needed to discover the rest of the wonders of Rome so that when you say "Did you see.....?" We could answer nonchalantly "Of course " This definitely required two circuits on the trusty hop-on-hop-off bus. We managed front seats upstairs in a canopied bus the first circuit so had a regally chauffeured drive around the Eternal City. Also we could hear the commentary and it was in English so we were really on a roll. The 1 1/2 hour circuit gave us an excellent overview, and of course we had also done an in-depth explore of some of the wonders.
That necessitated lunch which we had in the beautiful train station where I discovered yet another wonder, the Baba cake. My goodness, I wish I hadn't left that till the last day.
Sufficiently re-fuelled, we sallied forth again, targeting the wonders we had not examined close-up. The Pantheon was first on our hit list.
That was built between 27 and 25BC and dedicated to all gods of pagan Rome. In 608AD it became a Christian church. It had a mystical aura about it and once again I was offended by the narcissistic obsession with photography before such spiritual works of art. One section of it was cordoned off for people who wanted to sit in peace while all around were the masses who were only interested in how they looked with this wallpaper behind them.
We then walked on to discover the Fontana di Trevi which is certainly the most beautiful fountain in Rome (if not the world) and was built in 1762 in the Baroque style. I was astonished that it was sandwiched between a plethora of shops and ristorantes in the square which serves as a theatre. The central statue of Neptune is flanked by magnificent side statues symbolizing the abundance and health that water has always given to Rome. There are water fountains throughout the city so that pedestrians (and their dogs) have access to water 24/7.
We stayed on in that area so that Peter could rest with a pina colada and crepe and I could enjoy the fountain longer on my own, and then do my last bit of shopping.
Our last must-see was the Spanish Steps in the Piazza di Spagna built in 1629. There were crowds of people there, the armed military and police so obviously something was being planned . We thought that could be our exit point so we completed 13,000 steps back onto the next bus. We have been averaging that number per day but I don't think they will compensate for the Roman diet that we have been enjoying.
So tomorrow we will be picked up with our 2 suitcases each and driven to the airport ready for our 38 hours of travel through Hong Kong back to Auckland's winter. And that is the downside of going away. It has been a superb trip - our teenage OE that we missed out on really.
Arrivedercci Roma.
Tuesday 18 June 2019
Monday 17 June 2019
Monday 17 June - Rome
I was extremely displeased to see that the entry I wrote for Sunday did not appear. Huff!!! However I guess you may well feel that a shopping trip was not worth reading about. But, believe me, it was just as hornswaggling as all our other activities. Never mind. It's now 11.25pm, and I'm not spending my last waking minutes today on a shopping trip we did yesterday.
This morning began at 5.30 as we were being picked up from our hotel at 6.30am for our 3 hour bus trip to Naples and Pompeii. Most of the passengers were overnighting in Sorrento, but we booked to return at 8.30 tonight. A long day, but at least we're back. We only have one day left now and there's some major omissions such as the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon.
Naples is 200km south of Rome. We drove past such famed places as Tivoli, the Monte Casino Abbey which was built in 577AD and frequently attacked and restored until 1944 when the Allied Army dropped 600 tonnes of bombs on it, killing 75,000 people including our Maori Battalion. Yet again it has been restored to its former glory. It was delightful driving through the luxuriant countryside, so tranquil now with its vast crops of grapes, citrus fruits, tobacco and vibrant oleander trees. Southern Italy is prized for its beauty and tranquility, and many exceedingly wealthy Italians have their holiday homes in the area. Sophia Loren was born in this area. We drove past Mt Vesuvius but she was shrouded by mist at that stage in the day.
We reached Naples around 11am . The population there is 4 1/2 million , 3 million of whom live in the CBD in squalid conditions in high-rise tower blocks. It has a reputation as a den of iniquity, such a stark contrast to the Amalfi Coast, which is a billionaire's playground. Super-yachts are parked close together like a Wilson's carpark. There were 4 cruise boats in the Naples harbour and the congestion was horrific. Fortunately our coach made no attempt to allow us to disembark. There was absolutely no room to walk anywhere.
We drove on to the fringes of Pompeii for a pre-ordered pizza lunch with limoncello before starting our 2 hour walking tour of a tiny section of the 163 acres of Pompeii City which was destroyed by Mt Vesuvius in 79AD killing about 22,000 inhabitants. It was discovered in 1748 and the restoration has been going on ever since. The inhabitants of the city had such a sophisticated life style and it was fascinating hearing the descriptions of this while we were actually standing there on site.
By the afternoon, the mist had cleared from Mt Vesuvius and she looked totally benign - which she is not. Her most recent eruption was in 1944 and she is expected to blow again in 20 - 30 years time. Currently 20,000 earthquakes are being recorded PER DAY. That has not deterred the 700,000 people who live happily around her base now.
Some of our bus passengers were going on to holiday in Capris which has 15- 20,000 visitors per day in this summertime . We were very content to climb back into the half empty coach to return to Rome.
I was extremely displeased to see that the entry I wrote for Sunday did not appear. Huff!!! However I guess you may well feel that a shopping trip was not worth reading about. But, believe me, it was just as hornswaggling as all our other activities. Never mind. It's now 11.25pm, and I'm not spending my last waking minutes today on a shopping trip we did yesterday.
This morning began at 5.30 as we were being picked up from our hotel at 6.30am for our 3 hour bus trip to Naples and Pompeii. Most of the passengers were overnighting in Sorrento, but we booked to return at 8.30 tonight. A long day, but at least we're back. We only have one day left now and there's some major omissions such as the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon.
Naples is 200km south of Rome. We drove past such famed places as Tivoli, the Monte Casino Abbey which was built in 577AD and frequently attacked and restored until 1944 when the Allied Army dropped 600 tonnes of bombs on it, killing 75,000 people including our Maori Battalion. Yet again it has been restored to its former glory. It was delightful driving through the luxuriant countryside, so tranquil now with its vast crops of grapes, citrus fruits, tobacco and vibrant oleander trees. Southern Italy is prized for its beauty and tranquility, and many exceedingly wealthy Italians have their holiday homes in the area. Sophia Loren was born in this area. We drove past Mt Vesuvius but she was shrouded by mist at that stage in the day.
We reached Naples around 11am . The population there is 4 1/2 million , 3 million of whom live in the CBD in squalid conditions in high-rise tower blocks. It has a reputation as a den of iniquity, such a stark contrast to the Amalfi Coast, which is a billionaire's playground. Super-yachts are parked close together like a Wilson's carpark. There were 4 cruise boats in the Naples harbour and the congestion was horrific. Fortunately our coach made no attempt to allow us to disembark. There was absolutely no room to walk anywhere.
We drove on to the fringes of Pompeii for a pre-ordered pizza lunch with limoncello before starting our 2 hour walking tour of a tiny section of the 163 acres of Pompeii City which was destroyed by Mt Vesuvius in 79AD killing about 22,000 inhabitants. It was discovered in 1748 and the restoration has been going on ever since. The inhabitants of the city had such a sophisticated life style and it was fascinating hearing the descriptions of this while we were actually standing there on site.
By the afternoon, the mist had cleared from Mt Vesuvius and she looked totally benign - which she is not. Her most recent eruption was in 1944 and she is expected to blow again in 20 - 30 years time. Currently 20,000 earthquakes are being recorded PER DAY. That has not deterred the 700,000 people who live happily around her base now.
Some of our bus passengers were going on to holiday in Capris which has 15- 20,000 visitors per day in this summertime . We were very content to climb back into the half empty coach to return to Rome.
Saturday 15 June 2019
Saturday 15th June - Rome
Today was the walking tour of the Colosseum which was another of the 3 I booked weeks ago. After our experience of St Peter's Basilica yesterday, we were a tad apprehensive, but we turned up at the required 8.30 (the bus driver actually turned up at 7.30 to find he had muddled the tours) and off we zoomed through slightly less traffic way across town and spilled us out to join hundreds of others in clusters and the long queue. This was another"must book ahead" case. We were put into a group of 12 English speaking people and off we waddled following our flag-bearing guide walking right past the long queues and through a separate entrance for organized people. It's all so Mother Duck and her ducklings. We're all plugged into our headsets (whispers) and cling to Mother Duck for sheer survival. This guide spoke better English at a slower rate so I was able to make some notes as we went.
The Colosseum was an amphitheatre ordered by the first Roman Emperorer Augustus in 76 AD and opened for free entertainment plus bread to all people of Rome. The political grandstanding was held 2 days a week for 5 centuries during which time millions of humans and animals were slaughtered for fun. The arena held 60,000 people and was acoustically perfect. The stage area was built if wood and covered in sand to soak up the blood. Elevators were invented to lift the participants up to stage level from the vast tunnels and holding pens underneath. The spectacle started at 8.30 with gladiators against beasts; at 12.00 the criminals contest the beasts and at 4.00 gladiators pitched against each other. The crowd decided who won and should be freed. The other was killed. There is a large cross erected just as a Christian presence. You'll remember the story of Androcles and the lion, I'm sure and this was the setting.
The Colosseum was covered in marble over the stone work. That marble was all stolen centuries later in order to build the 500 churches in Rome today. Recycling they called it.
Rome was born in 8 BC on the Pallentine Hill overlooking the Tiber River which we climbed up after the tour of the Colosseum. The Temple of the Eternal City was built by the first emperor, Hadrian, in 2 AD. There were 11 aquaducts built .
We saw through the private hippodrome built in 1 AD. So much of this colossal domain remains because it was not bombed at all during the wars. We could see the teams of restoration builders working on various sites. The Palace was covered in marble brought over from Egypt and some of it remains to be seen today. When Nero came in to rule his palace was coated in gold just to outdo the Egyptian marble used by his predecessor. However, Nero was such a wicked ruler, with his cruelty and sadism going as far as his murder of both his mother and wife, and the crucifixion of St Peter upside down, that when he died, the public buried his palace where it remains today.
It was fascinating to see the remains of the Vesta temple which marked the centre of this eternal city now in ruins. The Vestal Virgins were (I think 12) female children chosen from wealthy families to keep the flame burning in the Vesta. They were held captive for this task for their lifetime - and there it still stands today.
I found all this so enthralling. I took Latin for 3 years at high school, but it was only today that all that boring history became a reality.
We were certainly in better shape when a taxi returned us to our hotel today, even though we had walked 15,000 steps , but really there's nothing to beat a siesta. That restored us sufficiently to continue our pina colada research in the early evening, happen upon the beautiful Basilica of St Mary Major standing alone with no pesky selfie seekers, and make a decision over the ristorante for our risotto and prosecco.
A really absorbingly interesting day. Much to my astonishment, Peter has chosen a shopping tour for tomorrow's activity. We're to be collected by coach at 11.00am and whisked off to a vast outlet shopping centre for four hours. I suspect the attraction is air conditioning, seats, coffee, loos and an absence of selfie narcissists. Other visitors prefer the Pantheon but we may have had our fill of history.
Today was the walking tour of the Colosseum which was another of the 3 I booked weeks ago. After our experience of St Peter's Basilica yesterday, we were a tad apprehensive, but we turned up at the required 8.30 (the bus driver actually turned up at 7.30 to find he had muddled the tours) and off we zoomed through slightly less traffic way across town and spilled us out to join hundreds of others in clusters and the long queue. This was another"must book ahead" case. We were put into a group of 12 English speaking people and off we waddled following our flag-bearing guide walking right past the long queues and through a separate entrance for organized people. It's all so Mother Duck and her ducklings. We're all plugged into our headsets (whispers) and cling to Mother Duck for sheer survival. This guide spoke better English at a slower rate so I was able to make some notes as we went.
The Colosseum was an amphitheatre ordered by the first Roman Emperorer Augustus in 76 AD and opened for free entertainment plus bread to all people of Rome. The political grandstanding was held 2 days a week for 5 centuries during which time millions of humans and animals were slaughtered for fun. The arena held 60,000 people and was acoustically perfect. The stage area was built if wood and covered in sand to soak up the blood. Elevators were invented to lift the participants up to stage level from the vast tunnels and holding pens underneath. The spectacle started at 8.30 with gladiators against beasts; at 12.00 the criminals contest the beasts and at 4.00 gladiators pitched against each other. The crowd decided who won and should be freed. The other was killed. There is a large cross erected just as a Christian presence. You'll remember the story of Androcles and the lion, I'm sure and this was the setting.
The Colosseum was covered in marble over the stone work. That marble was all stolen centuries later in order to build the 500 churches in Rome today. Recycling they called it.
Rome was born in 8 BC on the Pallentine Hill overlooking the Tiber River which we climbed up after the tour of the Colosseum. The Temple of the Eternal City was built by the first emperor, Hadrian, in 2 AD. There were 11 aquaducts built .
We saw through the private hippodrome built in 1 AD. So much of this colossal domain remains because it was not bombed at all during the wars. We could see the teams of restoration builders working on various sites. The Palace was covered in marble brought over from Egypt and some of it remains to be seen today. When Nero came in to rule his palace was coated in gold just to outdo the Egyptian marble used by his predecessor. However, Nero was such a wicked ruler, with his cruelty and sadism going as far as his murder of both his mother and wife, and the crucifixion of St Peter upside down, that when he died, the public buried his palace where it remains today.
It was fascinating to see the remains of the Vesta temple which marked the centre of this eternal city now in ruins. The Vestal Virgins were (I think 12) female children chosen from wealthy families to keep the flame burning in the Vesta. They were held captive for this task for their lifetime - and there it still stands today.
I found all this so enthralling. I took Latin for 3 years at high school, but it was only today that all that boring history became a reality.
We were certainly in better shape when a taxi returned us to our hotel today, even though we had walked 15,000 steps , but really there's nothing to beat a siesta. That restored us sufficiently to continue our pina colada research in the early evening, happen upon the beautiful Basilica of St Mary Major standing alone with no pesky selfie seekers, and make a decision over the ristorante for our risotto and prosecco.
A really absorbingly interesting day. Much to my astonishment, Peter has chosen a shopping tour for tomorrow's activity. We're to be collected by coach at 11.00am and whisked off to a vast outlet shopping centre for four hours. I suspect the attraction is air conditioning, seats, coffee, loos and an absence of selfie narcissists. Other visitors prefer the Pantheon but we may have had our fill of history.
Friday 14 June 2019
Friday 14th June - Rome
Happy birthday Anne. Hope you got my email.
This morning we needed to be in the foyer of the hotel to be picked up for something I booked months ago and have now forgotten.
And we were, and it turned out to be a tour of the Vatican City. My goodness me!!!! It was similar to our tour of Versailles when all I could see right the way around was the back of Peter's shirt. If any of you are planning on going, or have friends with plans, tell them they absolutely must book a tour group. Chaos reigned. And all in temperatures that soared to 37C. When we were finally sorted into an English speaking group, we followed our guide on an endless walk up hill passing many hundreds of people just sitting in a queue. The closer we came to the entrance, the more the people looked statuesque. Had they been there from the day before?
We entered the Vatican Museum first where photos are allowed without flash and the guides are allowed to tell you all they know. We had a charming Italian lady who knew everything so after the first half hour we just had to pull the whisper plugs out of our ears. I can actually tell you nothing at all. It was an arduous experience which took heavy toll on Peter so I was more concerned on his keeping up with the group in that mass of humanity. The art collection is supreme but after two hours in those crowds, in that heat we would have liked to bail out. But we couldn't. Where's out? Then suddenly we were divorced from our guide, told to put our cameras away, and given half an hour to go through the Sistine Chapel and meet up with our guide at the other end. Throughout the Chapel guards were constantly moving people along, trying to stop them from talking. What a job! Of course it was all totally breathtaking but equally exhausting.
Then just when we thought it was over, we had to walk through the Basilica itself and listen to our guide telling us all she knew. It is all unimaginably huge, and bigger and better than anything anywhere else in the world (so we kept being told). I can fully understand the motivation behind the Reformation. There was no reason to be quite so callous about it, but a change was warranted.
Eventually we were allowed outside into the Square where the Pope speaks to the masses and of course that too was vast. Eventually the guide ended the tour and left us outside Vatican City, back in Rome having walked 11,000 steps, and having no idea where we were. Our most dire needs were drink , chairs and food (at 1.30pm)
so we staggered into an air conditioned restoronti and started the recovery process.
Actually one of the most entertaining aspects of the tour was watching those whose custom it is trying desperately to get photos of themselves by these monumental art works in that density of humanity. They truly expected us to move around them to get the perfect shot. I'm sure the inability quite ruined their experience. They even tried it in front of The Pieter. NO!.
Eventually we grabbed a cab and he drove us for an endless amount of time through the insane traffic to our front door. Dear man. Then a shower and bed. That was our once-in-a-life-time Vatican City experience. And to think that is going on 364 days of every year (presuming they have Christmas day off). What a huge business enterprise it is.
Much later in the day, we hobbled out the front door of our hotel and tried turning right. It was a tad cooler by then so we tried walking around the block and discovering our whereabouts. And there was the railway station where we came in last evening. How funny. We had no idea we were that close. It took our taxi driver an age to get us here, but that's because of the density of the traffic and the one-way system. Our feet were still smarting from the morning, so we found ourselves a restaurant on a footpath with the railtrack running alongside and enjoyed prosecco and sea bass which is certainly my favourite. Quite apart from the monuments, history and architecture of this city, the people are an entertainment in their own right. How can people be so entirely different? FASCINATING!!!
Happy birthday Anne. Hope you got my email.
This morning we needed to be in the foyer of the hotel to be picked up for something I booked months ago and have now forgotten.
And we were, and it turned out to be a tour of the Vatican City. My goodness me!!!! It was similar to our tour of Versailles when all I could see right the way around was the back of Peter's shirt. If any of you are planning on going, or have friends with plans, tell them they absolutely must book a tour group. Chaos reigned. And all in temperatures that soared to 37C. When we were finally sorted into an English speaking group, we followed our guide on an endless walk up hill passing many hundreds of people just sitting in a queue. The closer we came to the entrance, the more the people looked statuesque. Had they been there from the day before?
We entered the Vatican Museum first where photos are allowed without flash and the guides are allowed to tell you all they know. We had a charming Italian lady who knew everything so after the first half hour we just had to pull the whisper plugs out of our ears. I can actually tell you nothing at all. It was an arduous experience which took heavy toll on Peter so I was more concerned on his keeping up with the group in that mass of humanity. The art collection is supreme but after two hours in those crowds, in that heat we would have liked to bail out. But we couldn't. Where's out? Then suddenly we were divorced from our guide, told to put our cameras away, and given half an hour to go through the Sistine Chapel and meet up with our guide at the other end. Throughout the Chapel guards were constantly moving people along, trying to stop them from talking. What a job! Of course it was all totally breathtaking but equally exhausting.
Then just when we thought it was over, we had to walk through the Basilica itself and listen to our guide telling us all she knew. It is all unimaginably huge, and bigger and better than anything anywhere else in the world (so we kept being told). I can fully understand the motivation behind the Reformation. There was no reason to be quite so callous about it, but a change was warranted.
Eventually we were allowed outside into the Square where the Pope speaks to the masses and of course that too was vast. Eventually the guide ended the tour and left us outside Vatican City, back in Rome having walked 11,000 steps, and having no idea where we were. Our most dire needs were drink , chairs and food (at 1.30pm)
so we staggered into an air conditioned restoronti and started the recovery process.
Actually one of the most entertaining aspects of the tour was watching those whose custom it is trying desperately to get photos of themselves by these monumental art works in that density of humanity. They truly expected us to move around them to get the perfect shot. I'm sure the inability quite ruined their experience. They even tried it in front of The Pieter. NO!.
Eventually we grabbed a cab and he drove us for an endless amount of time through the insane traffic to our front door. Dear man. Then a shower and bed. That was our once-in-a-life-time Vatican City experience. And to think that is going on 364 days of every year (presuming they have Christmas day off). What a huge business enterprise it is.
Much later in the day, we hobbled out the front door of our hotel and tried turning right. It was a tad cooler by then so we tried walking around the block and discovering our whereabouts. And there was the railway station where we came in last evening. How funny. We had no idea we were that close. It took our taxi driver an age to get us here, but that's because of the density of the traffic and the one-way system. Our feet were still smarting from the morning, so we found ourselves a restaurant on a footpath with the railtrack running alongside and enjoyed prosecco and sea bass which is certainly my favourite. Quite apart from the monuments, history and architecture of this city, the people are an entertainment in their own right. How can people be so entirely different? FASCINATING!!!
Thursday 13 June 2019
Thursday 14th June - Rome
We've arrived!!!! A grand achievement!
Our only event today was a visit to an olive oil boutique enterprise with tastings and then an oily lunch. It was all presented so professionally and what it showed me was the superb standard of oils produced in NZ.
This enterprise produced 20 different oils, but there are 600 which exist in Italy. We learned the meaning of the term "extra virgin oil" and the way they actually extract the oil. A tour through the processing plant was all new to us. This enterprise employs about 50 pickers per season.
After seeing how the mechanical press operated we were taken upstairs to the tasting table where we were given 3 little samples of their oil. How very interesting to hear about the subtleties of these. I could taste no difference whatsoever and did not like any of them. Then we had a 4 course lunch offered to us during which we tried those same 3 oils with tomato, mozzarella cheese and bread. The next course was a delightful chick pea soup into which we were supposed to stir the decreed oil. I preferred not to. Then we were presented with thinly sliced raw beef on lettuce leaves and told to try the oils on them .Peter and I declined that altogether. This was followed by a very dark chocolate icecream over which an oil had been poured. One mouthful, that was it. The other group members bought up large, but we escaped into the sunshine and settled on to the bus. We were far more interested in getting to Rome.
And so we did. Not easily, mind you. Mercifully our tour guide was returning to Rome via the fast Express, so we could tag along behind him. What chaos!!!! However, by asking lots of questions we caught the 4.13 pm train. It was running a tad late but that's ok. Passengers have 8 minutes from the time of the announcement of the Platform number to the departure of the train whether you're on it or not. It just closes its doors and goes. We had booked first class which proved an excellent idea. It included a juice and a bikkie. The train winds up to 250kph so the trip was an easy 1 1/2 hours. Very pleasant and comfortable.
Of course then we were tipped off the train as quickly as possible and went in search of a taxi to battle the insane traffic to reach our Best Western Hotel which was very close to the station but totally impossible for us to achieve with the density of people and traffic and our heavy bags. What a lovely warm welcome we received here. We really felt so triumphant. We have a magnificent room with an enormous bathroom with a black, twinkly , marble floor. Goodness me. We managed to get to the sumptuous dining room, down margaritas and proseccos, eat vege soup and Veal done the way Italians do, a fruit salad and stagger to bed. Not too sure how this combines with Peter's drugs but we'll find out in the morning.
We've arrived!!!! A grand achievement!
Our only event today was a visit to an olive oil boutique enterprise with tastings and then an oily lunch. It was all presented so professionally and what it showed me was the superb standard of oils produced in NZ.
This enterprise produced 20 different oils, but there are 600 which exist in Italy. We learned the meaning of the term "extra virgin oil" and the way they actually extract the oil. A tour through the processing plant was all new to us. This enterprise employs about 50 pickers per season.
After seeing how the mechanical press operated we were taken upstairs to the tasting table where we were given 3 little samples of their oil. How very interesting to hear about the subtleties of these. I could taste no difference whatsoever and did not like any of them. Then we had a 4 course lunch offered to us during which we tried those same 3 oils with tomato, mozzarella cheese and bread. The next course was a delightful chick pea soup into which we were supposed to stir the decreed oil. I preferred not to. Then we were presented with thinly sliced raw beef on lettuce leaves and told to try the oils on them .Peter and I declined that altogether. This was followed by a very dark chocolate icecream over which an oil had been poured. One mouthful, that was it. The other group members bought up large, but we escaped into the sunshine and settled on to the bus. We were far more interested in getting to Rome.
And so we did. Not easily, mind you. Mercifully our tour guide was returning to Rome via the fast Express, so we could tag along behind him. What chaos!!!! However, by asking lots of questions we caught the 4.13 pm train. It was running a tad late but that's ok. Passengers have 8 minutes from the time of the announcement of the Platform number to the departure of the train whether you're on it or not. It just closes its doors and goes. We had booked first class which proved an excellent idea. It included a juice and a bikkie. The train winds up to 250kph so the trip was an easy 1 1/2 hours. Very pleasant and comfortable.
Of course then we were tipped off the train as quickly as possible and went in search of a taxi to battle the insane traffic to reach our Best Western Hotel which was very close to the station but totally impossible for us to achieve with the density of people and traffic and our heavy bags. What a lovely warm welcome we received here. We really felt so triumphant. We have a magnificent room with an enormous bathroom with a black, twinkly , marble floor. Goodness me. We managed to get to the sumptuous dining room, down margaritas and proseccos, eat vege soup and Veal done the way Italians do, a fruit salad and stagger to bed. Not too sure how this combines with Peter's drugs but we'll find out in the morning.
Wednesday 12 June 2019
Wednesday 13 June - The same place.
Our unit is a 2 bedroomed one with a large family room and kitchen. This meant that I could leave Peter to his misery and sleep in another room with the door shut. I awoke at 8.30 this morning to the most heavenly picture calendar scene and the birds shrilling in the sunshine. Did Peter survive the night? YES!!! Aren't antibiotics wonderful. He had been awake for a couple of hours and was wondering if I had survived the night. The best sleep I had had since we left NZ.
The programme for the morning was an Italian cookery class offered by our resort. This gave Peter the opportunity to relax for the morning and me the opportunity to be entertained by the 2 very Italian chefs who had us making I crostini di fegatini (chicken liver toasts -for those of you who didn't know) and Le fettuccine con salsa di pomodoro e basilica. You can work that one out. Fettuccine with a tomato and basil sauce. My forte was setting the table for 18, Italian style. What a table cloth!!!!!. Of course the lure for all this was getting to eat the resultant huge lunch washed down with limitless wine followed by espresso, Italian style.
We didn't return to our units until after 2pm. By this time Peter was showing signs of his former self, and by the time he had his afternoon snooze, there was another improvement. The temperature was many degrees cooler today (or was it that we were 800 meters up and not cooped up in a bus driving winding back country roads for 3 hours? Peter felt up to a slow evening stroll around the estate, catching up on the news from the various resident cats. We came upon our group who had met for a second evening of enjoying the wine and cheese they had bought from our travels. This led inevitably to wandering off to another fabulous Tuscan meal with a variety of Italian wines.
I have every intention of remembering this Tuscan Treats trip for the rest of my life. Off to Rome tomorrow.
Our unit is a 2 bedroomed one with a large family room and kitchen. This meant that I could leave Peter to his misery and sleep in another room with the door shut. I awoke at 8.30 this morning to the most heavenly picture calendar scene and the birds shrilling in the sunshine. Did Peter survive the night? YES!!! Aren't antibiotics wonderful. He had been awake for a couple of hours and was wondering if I had survived the night. The best sleep I had had since we left NZ.
The programme for the morning was an Italian cookery class offered by our resort. This gave Peter the opportunity to relax for the morning and me the opportunity to be entertained by the 2 very Italian chefs who had us making I crostini di fegatini (chicken liver toasts -for those of you who didn't know) and Le fettuccine con salsa di pomodoro e basilica. You can work that one out. Fettuccine with a tomato and basil sauce. My forte was setting the table for 18, Italian style. What a table cloth!!!!!. Of course the lure for all this was getting to eat the resultant huge lunch washed down with limitless wine followed by espresso, Italian style.
We didn't return to our units until after 2pm. By this time Peter was showing signs of his former self, and by the time he had his afternoon snooze, there was another improvement. The temperature was many degrees cooler today (or was it that we were 800 meters up and not cooped up in a bus driving winding back country roads for 3 hours? Peter felt up to a slow evening stroll around the estate, catching up on the news from the various resident cats. We came upon our group who had met for a second evening of enjoying the wine and cheese they had bought from our travels. This led inevitably to wandering off to another fabulous Tuscan meal with a variety of Italian wines.
I have every intention of remembering this Tuscan Treats trip for the rest of my life. Off to Rome tomorrow.
Tuesday 11 June 2019
Tuesday 11th June - Fattoria degli Usignoli
Truth to tell I have no idea where we are. The book just says Tuscany but then the whole trip has been Tuscany. We are 800 meters above sea level in a large resort. I can find no information on it at all.
Our main focus since I wrote yesterday has been keeping Peter breathing. He brought his inhaler but it had expired. So there we were all through the night with him having to stay upright to breathe. Needless to say sleep was infrequent. So this morning our tour guide and one of our group who is a career nurse went on a hunt through Pienza to try to find a doctor. Remarkably difficult. However we did locate a chemist who was not prepared to let us have the antibiotics the nurse said he needed. We had a full on Italian "discussion" with all the accompanying gesticulating and modulation, but ur did result in the antibiotics for €7.50. He would not let us have the inhaler which was on the shelf behind him. VERY frustrating. So after dosing him with that and parasol he climbed into the bus curled up in the backseat and concentrated on breathing
On the group went to an inorganic farm called the Monticiello cheese factory. The valley was bought 3 generations ago by a Swiss couple and has now gained UNESCO recognition with its production of Pecorino cheese. They also grow olives, produce boutique wines. Are a self-sufficient farm used as a national training centre. All a huge enterprise. We thoroughly enjoyed the lunch they served up to us.
The three hour drive to the resort we are in now was long , hot and tedious. Peter had to be transferred to the tour guide's seat at the front and the rest of us wished we could be. It was a real case of "Are we there yet". By 5pm we drove up the regal cypress lined driveway and helped unload our cases. I was delighted to see a 2 bed-roomed unit, so I'm expecting a better night's sleep.
Truth to tell I have no idea where we are. The book just says Tuscany but then the whole trip has been Tuscany. We are 800 meters above sea level in a large resort. I can find no information on it at all.
Our main focus since I wrote yesterday has been keeping Peter breathing. He brought his inhaler but it had expired. So there we were all through the night with him having to stay upright to breathe. Needless to say sleep was infrequent. So this morning our tour guide and one of our group who is a career nurse went on a hunt through Pienza to try to find a doctor. Remarkably difficult. However we did locate a chemist who was not prepared to let us have the antibiotics the nurse said he needed. We had a full on Italian "discussion" with all the accompanying gesticulating and modulation, but ur did result in the antibiotics for €7.50. He would not let us have the inhaler which was on the shelf behind him. VERY frustrating. So after dosing him with that and parasol he climbed into the bus curled up in the backseat and concentrated on breathing
On the group went to an inorganic farm called the Monticiello cheese factory. The valley was bought 3 generations ago by a Swiss couple and has now gained UNESCO recognition with its production of Pecorino cheese. They also grow olives, produce boutique wines. Are a self-sufficient farm used as a national training centre. All a huge enterprise. We thoroughly enjoyed the lunch they served up to us.
The three hour drive to the resort we are in now was long , hot and tedious. Peter had to be transferred to the tour guide's seat at the front and the rest of us wished we could be. It was a real case of "Are we there yet". By 5pm we drove up the regal cypress lined driveway and helped unload our cases. I was delighted to see a 2 bed-roomed unit, so I'm expecting a better night's sleep.
Monday 10 June 2019
Monday, 10th June - Pienza
Well, the day dawned bright and clear but Peter did not. I know that cough and it leads to trouble. What a shame. He did all this in Ireland 4 years ago, so really has no need to repeat the performance. However, we had no choice but to stick him on a seat on his own in the coach, strap him in and carry on regardless.
Remember the movie 'Tea with Mousilini'? That was set in San Gimignano which was our first stop today. It has a population of 7,000 and is famous for its towers which were a means of showing the wealth of the property owners. "Mine's taller than yours ". It is also the home of a magnificent piazza. After a very steep climb up the hill, (Peter found that hugely challenging), we were treated to gelato from the Gelateria Dondoli which proudly sported many awards on its front entranceway. There was a long queue but as a tour group we enjoyed priority treatment. Funnily enough there was another larger gelateria on another side of the square professing to make the best gelato in the world but noone was in the shop.
After a short bus ride we pulled in to Fattoria San Donato for an explanation of his winemaking skills and then were treated to a Tuscan lunch including homemade bread, a variety of olive oils, a salami selection, bread and mozzarella cheese, a platter of olives. Oh, and red and white wine. All the other members of the group bought gift boxes of wine, but we feel NZ wines are totally satisfactory. Anyway, Peter was too unwell to partake of the lunch let alone buy wine.
The bus trip for the next hour was extremely quiet punctuated only by gentle snoring until we reached Siena with its population of 53,000. It is one of the 58 UNESCO sites in Italy famed for its cathedral which was built in the 12th century. It is considered the most ornamented in Europe. It required a very steep long walk through the narrow winding streets which were very hot with the brutal crowds of tourists. This proved too much for Peter, so we hailed a taxi which took him back to the shade and peace and quiet of the bus. Much to my surprise, our guide insisted on looking after Peter while I went to the Cathedral. Oh, my goodness. I can see why. Is this my favourite? Judging from the number of photos, it just could be. I was very grateful to Mario for his care of the situation thus giving me the opportunity to see this magnificent piece of architecture.
Another hour's drive we climbed 500 meters above sea level to the incredible accommodation booked for us in the 15th century Franciscan Covent which was restored in 1993. The Covent is beside the 13th century San Francesco church and is a good central point from which to view Siena, Frienze, Arrezzo, Perugia, Assissi, and Orvieto. The town has the usual array of superb cuisine, but I really felt Peter needed vegetable soup (for which the waiter brought knife and fork) followed by a nice quiet vanilla gelato. As for me, vino bianco, wild boar stew and gelato just to check its suitability for Peter, you understand.
We're now settled in our vast 3 roomed suite and 4 poster bed into which Peter has sunk and floated off to dreamland. Let's hope he is vastly improved in the morning. There is too much fun organized for him to be poorly.
Well, the day dawned bright and clear but Peter did not. I know that cough and it leads to trouble. What a shame. He did all this in Ireland 4 years ago, so really has no need to repeat the performance. However, we had no choice but to stick him on a seat on his own in the coach, strap him in and carry on regardless.
Remember the movie 'Tea with Mousilini'? That was set in San Gimignano which was our first stop today. It has a population of 7,000 and is famous for its towers which were a means of showing the wealth of the property owners. "Mine's taller than yours ". It is also the home of a magnificent piazza. After a very steep climb up the hill, (Peter found that hugely challenging), we were treated to gelato from the Gelateria Dondoli which proudly sported many awards on its front entranceway. There was a long queue but as a tour group we enjoyed priority treatment. Funnily enough there was another larger gelateria on another side of the square professing to make the best gelato in the world but noone was in the shop.
After a short bus ride we pulled in to Fattoria San Donato for an explanation of his winemaking skills and then were treated to a Tuscan lunch including homemade bread, a variety of olive oils, a salami selection, bread and mozzarella cheese, a platter of olives. Oh, and red and white wine. All the other members of the group bought gift boxes of wine, but we feel NZ wines are totally satisfactory. Anyway, Peter was too unwell to partake of the lunch let alone buy wine.
The bus trip for the next hour was extremely quiet punctuated only by gentle snoring until we reached Siena with its population of 53,000. It is one of the 58 UNESCO sites in Italy famed for its cathedral which was built in the 12th century. It is considered the most ornamented in Europe. It required a very steep long walk through the narrow winding streets which were very hot with the brutal crowds of tourists. This proved too much for Peter, so we hailed a taxi which took him back to the shade and peace and quiet of the bus. Much to my surprise, our guide insisted on looking after Peter while I went to the Cathedral. Oh, my goodness. I can see why. Is this my favourite? Judging from the number of photos, it just could be. I was very grateful to Mario for his care of the situation thus giving me the opportunity to see this magnificent piece of architecture.
Another hour's drive we climbed 500 meters above sea level to the incredible accommodation booked for us in the 15th century Franciscan Covent which was restored in 1993. The Covent is beside the 13th century San Francesco church and is a good central point from which to view Siena, Frienze, Arrezzo, Perugia, Assissi, and Orvieto. The town has the usual array of superb cuisine, but I really felt Peter needed vegetable soup (for which the waiter brought knife and fork) followed by a nice quiet vanilla gelato. As for me, vino bianco, wild boar stew and gelato just to check its suitability for Peter, you understand.
We're now settled in our vast 3 roomed suite and 4 poster bed into which Peter has sunk and floated off to dreamland. Let's hope he is vastly improved in the morning. There is too much fun organized for him to be poorly.
Sunday 9 June 2019
Sunday 9 June - Volterra
After yet another night's painful intermittent sleep on a rock hard slab, we levered ourselves onto our little coach and drove for a couple of hours to Pisa with its resident population of 120,000. Its tourist population is beyond calculation. Constant swarms come to view its famed leaning tower which was closed in 1990 to give it additional support to stop it leaning further. It was straightened only by 80 centimeters so that the tourist trade could continue. EVERYBODY wanted their classic photo of standing in the most grotesque poses so the photo made it look as if they were holding it up. Peter and I did not stoop to such common stupidity. The Pisa Cathedral was started to be built in 1115AD but took 5 centuries to be completed. Being a Sunday we were only allowed to stand at the back so as not to interrupt the ritual. The organ was in full throttle as we entered but unfortunately came to the closing cadences. However we stayed in the cool peace for some of the Gregorian chanting until it was time for the Baptistry to be opened to the public following a baptism. Do you know that the people who do were still posing in their stupidity in front of the Gothic pulpit which is considered to be the most beautiful in Europe. I think such behaviour is sacrilegious . In the Cathedral is the lamp that Galileo used to assist in his planetary theories that caused him to be imprisoned for daring to contradict the catholic belief that the sun revolved around the earth. Mercifully he was not beheaded so somebody had some appreciation of scientific theory back in the day.
We could not handle tourists' crass behaviour so found ourselves a haven for the cappuccino and loo ritual in a shady spot around where the tourist horses and carriages were waiting their turn to clop these people who needed to be photographed around the town once they'd finished holding the leaning tower. We sat down at a table next to a German couple. The wife had just fallen down a curb or a cobblestone and either broken or badly sprained her ankle. So, so easy. It certainly slowed us down Fortunately they were with a group, so the official tour leader was making arrangements for her care.
At 12.30 we took refuge from the crippling heat and returned to our beautifully air conditioned little coach, and to the accompaniment of Botticelli who was born in Pisa, we were driven along the Aurelia Highway to Volterra. Both Peter and I considered that the tenor we heard in Lucca last evening was way better than Botticelli but we would not dare confess to that opinion in public. This medieval town is built on a plateau and archeologists have found proof of a 10,000 year history. We were taken through the town to view the remains of an unrestored Roman Theatre and then to our enchanting Tuscan hotel. It was great to be told we were free until 8.15am tomorrow. What with the heat of the afternoon sun, and our two sleep-deprived nights we had reached the end of our interest in anything else old. We were consumed with our own oldness.
However, after a couple of hours sleep on a mattress that did give us comfortable support, we sallied forth after 6pm when the sun had less ferocity and slowly ambled back up the steep slopes to the town centre where there had been great festivities and merriment at a Mystery and Magic festival for which many of the locals had dressed in such entertaining costumes. People had flocked from other regions to be part of the fun, but we thoroughly enjoyed our diligent research into pina coladas. All the shops were still open and crowds had emerged in the cool of the evening to eat, drink and be merry. Such fun. There is no alcohol abuse throughout Italy because there is no restriction on its consumption. Interesting to see this attitude put into practice. I would have thought that at the end of such a Festival of celebration the town would have been littered with drunken youths and their disgusting rubbish. Not a bit if it.
So we found ourselves a little Tuscan crepery and enjoyed our accompanying chianti in peace and quiet.
After yet another night's painful intermittent sleep on a rock hard slab, we levered ourselves onto our little coach and drove for a couple of hours to Pisa with its resident population of 120,000. Its tourist population is beyond calculation. Constant swarms come to view its famed leaning tower which was closed in 1990 to give it additional support to stop it leaning further. It was straightened only by 80 centimeters so that the tourist trade could continue. EVERYBODY wanted their classic photo of standing in the most grotesque poses so the photo made it look as if they were holding it up. Peter and I did not stoop to such common stupidity. The Pisa Cathedral was started to be built in 1115AD but took 5 centuries to be completed. Being a Sunday we were only allowed to stand at the back so as not to interrupt the ritual. The organ was in full throttle as we entered but unfortunately came to the closing cadences. However we stayed in the cool peace for some of the Gregorian chanting until it was time for the Baptistry to be opened to the public following a baptism. Do you know that the people who do were still posing in their stupidity in front of the Gothic pulpit which is considered to be the most beautiful in Europe. I think such behaviour is sacrilegious . In the Cathedral is the lamp that Galileo used to assist in his planetary theories that caused him to be imprisoned for daring to contradict the catholic belief that the sun revolved around the earth. Mercifully he was not beheaded so somebody had some appreciation of scientific theory back in the day.
We could not handle tourists' crass behaviour so found ourselves a haven for the cappuccino and loo ritual in a shady spot around where the tourist horses and carriages were waiting their turn to clop these people who needed to be photographed around the town once they'd finished holding the leaning tower. We sat down at a table next to a German couple. The wife had just fallen down a curb or a cobblestone and either broken or badly sprained her ankle. So, so easy. It certainly slowed us down Fortunately they were with a group, so the official tour leader was making arrangements for her care.
At 12.30 we took refuge from the crippling heat and returned to our beautifully air conditioned little coach, and to the accompaniment of Botticelli who was born in Pisa, we were driven along the Aurelia Highway to Volterra. Both Peter and I considered that the tenor we heard in Lucca last evening was way better than Botticelli but we would not dare confess to that opinion in public. This medieval town is built on a plateau and archeologists have found proof of a 10,000 year history. We were taken through the town to view the remains of an unrestored Roman Theatre and then to our enchanting Tuscan hotel. It was great to be told we were free until 8.15am tomorrow. What with the heat of the afternoon sun, and our two sleep-deprived nights we had reached the end of our interest in anything else old. We were consumed with our own oldness.
However, after a couple of hours sleep on a mattress that did give us comfortable support, we sallied forth after 6pm when the sun had less ferocity and slowly ambled back up the steep slopes to the town centre where there had been great festivities and merriment at a Mystery and Magic festival for which many of the locals had dressed in such entertaining costumes. People had flocked from other regions to be part of the fun, but we thoroughly enjoyed our diligent research into pina coladas. All the shops were still open and crowds had emerged in the cool of the evening to eat, drink and be merry. Such fun. There is no alcohol abuse throughout Italy because there is no restriction on its consumption. Interesting to see this attitude put into practice. I would have thought that at the end of such a Festival of celebration the town would have been littered with drunken youths and their disgusting rubbish. Not a bit if it.
So we found ourselves a little Tuscan crepery and enjoyed our accompanying chianti in peace and quiet.
Saturday 8 June 2019
Saturday 8 June, Lucca
Today has been one of those rare days in my life where absolutely every moment was far superior to anything I have experienced. I have looked at friends' photos and heard their travellers' tales for years, never thinking I would share their euphoria but there we were on our little bus on our way to La Spezia by 8.15am where we boarded our boat to go to the 5 villages that constitute the Cinque Terre.
En route we drove through Carrara, famed for its white, black, grey and green marble which we could see in the mountains. Pink marble is only found in Lessini and is far more expensive. Italy with its population of 60 million has four industries: automobile manufacture, agriculture, tourism and soccer. We drove for 1 1/2 hours through many lengthy tunnels, across the Margara River to reach La Spezia, a pretty harbour city of 80,000 people. We made our way through throngs of tourists, each group headed by a flag -waving guide, onto our cruise boat taking us to Vernazza, Riomaggiore, and Monterosso, three of the hamlets located on the West coast of the Riveria. Cameras clicked constantly. At first the skies were clear Kodak-blue, but as we continued a sea mist arose creating a setting for Peter Jackson's next movie. This was so mystical but certainly blighted the photos. The sea rose making alighting at the little hamlets challenging for some. However when we finally disembarked for lunch at Monterossa the skies cleared again to reveal the magic of the UNESCO heritage site.
Peter and I found ourselves a superb restaurante for a sea bass lunch, which I felt needed accompanying with a bottle of chianti. Peter was far more restrained but I needed to celebrate my grandson's birthday and welcome Edward into his teenage years in suitable Italian style.
A couple of hours later we met up with our group again to board the train to Levanto where our bus was waiting. We managed to score front seats in the bus for the first time on our trip, so could really soak up the glorious scenery along the Aurelian Road which was built 1,900 years ago by the Romans. It is the second oldest highway in Italy.
We had a brief time to change and then group with all the guests in our boutique San Marino & Diana Hotel for cocktail hour which offered a wide array of finger food and wines. I preferred Prosecco.
Our tour guide Mario had told us about a concert at the Santi Giovanni Cathedral one block away, celebrating the work of Puccini who was born in Lucca in 1858. We were astonished that only 1 other of our group was interested in attending, preferring extended cocktails or shopping or resting. For goodness sake, they could do all of that once they got home. So just three of us turned up for what turned out to be a soul-stirring performance of a variety of opera numbers sung by two grand opera singers and a spine-tingling piano medley of Wagner's finest. The pianist accompanied the singers in appropriately unassuming style, but when opportunity arose with his solo, he proved himself to be a virtuoso in his own right. And all this in a majestic cathedral built for its acoustics.
So you can tell that the whole day exhibited the finest that Italy has to offer all within a space of 12 hours. Off to Pisa in the morning.
Today has been one of those rare days in my life where absolutely every moment was far superior to anything I have experienced. I have looked at friends' photos and heard their travellers' tales for years, never thinking I would share their euphoria but there we were on our little bus on our way to La Spezia by 8.15am where we boarded our boat to go to the 5 villages that constitute the Cinque Terre.
En route we drove through Carrara, famed for its white, black, grey and green marble which we could see in the mountains. Pink marble is only found in Lessini and is far more expensive. Italy with its population of 60 million has four industries: automobile manufacture, agriculture, tourism and soccer. We drove for 1 1/2 hours through many lengthy tunnels, across the Margara River to reach La Spezia, a pretty harbour city of 80,000 people. We made our way through throngs of tourists, each group headed by a flag -waving guide, onto our cruise boat taking us to Vernazza, Riomaggiore, and Monterosso, three of the hamlets located on the West coast of the Riveria. Cameras clicked constantly. At first the skies were clear Kodak-blue, but as we continued a sea mist arose creating a setting for Peter Jackson's next movie. This was so mystical but certainly blighted the photos. The sea rose making alighting at the little hamlets challenging for some. However when we finally disembarked for lunch at Monterossa the skies cleared again to reveal the magic of the UNESCO heritage site.
Peter and I found ourselves a superb restaurante for a sea bass lunch, which I felt needed accompanying with a bottle of chianti. Peter was far more restrained but I needed to celebrate my grandson's birthday and welcome Edward into his teenage years in suitable Italian style.
A couple of hours later we met up with our group again to board the train to Levanto where our bus was waiting. We managed to score front seats in the bus for the first time on our trip, so could really soak up the glorious scenery along the Aurelian Road which was built 1,900 years ago by the Romans. It is the second oldest highway in Italy.
We had a brief time to change and then group with all the guests in our boutique San Marino & Diana Hotel for cocktail hour which offered a wide array of finger food and wines. I preferred Prosecco.
Our tour guide Mario had told us about a concert at the Santi Giovanni Cathedral one block away, celebrating the work of Puccini who was born in Lucca in 1858. We were astonished that only 1 other of our group was interested in attending, preferring extended cocktails or shopping or resting. For goodness sake, they could do all of that once they got home. So just three of us turned up for what turned out to be a soul-stirring performance of a variety of opera numbers sung by two grand opera singers and a spine-tingling piano medley of Wagner's finest. The pianist accompanied the singers in appropriately unassuming style, but when opportunity arose with his solo, he proved himself to be a virtuoso in his own right. And all this in a majestic cathedral built for its acoustics.
So you can tell that the whole day exhibited the finest that Italy has to offer all within a space of 12 hours. Off to Pisa in the morning.
Friday 7 June 2019
Friday, 7 June - Lucca
This morning we met our Backroads tour group of 16 travellers and Mario our guide. 4 couples are from NZ so it is just great to have some ordinary companions who speak normally. Although we assembled at 8.00 in Florence, we didn't set off until 9.00 and that was on a walking tour of Florence CBD. So we had seen and photographed all the points of interest, but had no idea of what we were admiring.
Josephine you asked about the Duomo photos from yesterday. I can now tell you that it was started in 1296 and intended to be the biggest and best cathedral in Europe. The basic building was completed 150 years later, but by then other cities had outdone them, so additions had to be built. Talk about one-up-manship. The Dome was added in 1420. It actually is in 2 parts and has 463 steps inside to enable folk to get to the top and see the view. Architects are still investigating the remarkable construction which has never been replicated. The adjacent Baptistry was built in the 11th century. It is far more ornate on the inside but its gold doors were added in in 1452. They were originally made of bronze covered in gold leaf, but in 1990 they were removed into safety and what we admired were just replicas. All fascinating when somebody tells you. Both the church itself and the Baptistry can be entered at a large fee when booked well in advance.
We were left for 2 hours in the plaza for lunch and shopping which suited our fellow travellers who had no earlier shopping experience. I have now met my 23kg limit so am confined from here on to window shopping. Peter however was talked into the purchase of a genuine leather satchel which I feel will be extremely useful when he needs something with more class than his old trusty canvas bag.
At 1.00 we boarded our small Backroads van and made the 1 1/2 hour trip through the magical Tuscan landscape to our quaint hotel in Lucca, a walled 16th century city of 90,00 people. Our Mario guide took us on a walking tour around this beautiful Etruscan city.
Tonight we enjoy a banquet - Lucca style.
This morning we met our Backroads tour group of 16 travellers and Mario our guide. 4 couples are from NZ so it is just great to have some ordinary companions who speak normally. Although we assembled at 8.00 in Florence, we didn't set off until 9.00 and that was on a walking tour of Florence CBD. So we had seen and photographed all the points of interest, but had no idea of what we were admiring.
Josephine you asked about the Duomo photos from yesterday. I can now tell you that it was started in 1296 and intended to be the biggest and best cathedral in Europe. The basic building was completed 150 years later, but by then other cities had outdone them, so additions had to be built. Talk about one-up-manship. The Dome was added in 1420. It actually is in 2 parts and has 463 steps inside to enable folk to get to the top and see the view. Architects are still investigating the remarkable construction which has never been replicated. The adjacent Baptistry was built in the 11th century. It is far more ornate on the inside but its gold doors were added in in 1452. They were originally made of bronze covered in gold leaf, but in 1990 they were removed into safety and what we admired were just replicas. All fascinating when somebody tells you. Both the church itself and the Baptistry can be entered at a large fee when booked well in advance.
We were left for 2 hours in the plaza for lunch and shopping which suited our fellow travellers who had no earlier shopping experience. I have now met my 23kg limit so am confined from here on to window shopping. Peter however was talked into the purchase of a genuine leather satchel which I feel will be extremely useful when he needs something with more class than his old trusty canvas bag.
At 1.00 we boarded our small Backroads van and made the 1 1/2 hour trip through the magical Tuscan landscape to our quaint hotel in Lucca, a walled 16th century city of 90,00 people. Our Mario guide took us on a walking tour around this beautiful Etruscan city.
Tonight we enjoy a banquet - Lucca style.
Thursday 6 June 2019
Thursday, 6 June, Florence
Having realised how little of this city we could do at our pace we decided to target the Ufizzi Gallery in the morning and then do the red hop- on-hop- off bus tour which we'd already paid for before. The Gallery is just a 10 minute walk from us down by the River Arno. Our hotel concierge assured us we would not get in as we hadn't booked. But being Kiwis, we bowled along anyway. And got in. Sure we had to pay a bit extra for priority entry but it was that or give it a miss. The vastness of the collection was far, far beyond our experience. We gasped in awe for 2 1/2 hours and then needed a coffee. An overwhelming experience.
So then off to a bus-stop but had to wait 50 minutes for the next red bus to arrive. It's this sort of constraint that limits what you can achieve in a day. Our backs and feet were so just so relieved to be able to get a top deck seat and sit on it. The weather was overcast today which was so much better, allowing us to see much more. Also miraculously we picked a seat with sound and English commentary. Not a common occurence.
Florence , known as the jewel of the Renaissence, used to be the capital of Italy. It is a city of flowers and romantics. I was thrilled by the luxurious greenery , bright beds of flowers and vibrant birdsong. Of course we're in Tuscany now so think "Under the Tuscan Sun". Melodious music surrounds the traveler and lures her further into the hills above the thronging city. We wished we had time to alight at every one of the stops on offer but we must be content with a superficial coverage.
When we had completed the 2 hour circuit, we walked down to the Ponte Vecchio which spans the River Arno. It is here that gold merchants built their house-shops, and it was packed with tourists craning their necks to view the billions of Euros of gold jewelry on display. No price tags were attached and the doors were all closed to the ogling tourists. Through these glass doors, we could see genuine buyers seated at elegant tables with sophisticated sales assistants enticing wealthy clients. Fascinating. I did manage to gain entry to one shop to view a pretty little simple gold bangle, but was not offered a seat. I even got to try it on and so glanced at the price tag of €380.00. I hummed and hahed for an appropriate time and then said it wasn't quite what I was looking for. Peter was relieved when I emerged.
Tomorrow we need to be at our pickup hotel by 8.00 am to join our Backroads tour of Tuscany.
Having realised how little of this city we could do at our pace we decided to target the Ufizzi Gallery in the morning and then do the red hop- on-hop- off bus tour which we'd already paid for before. The Gallery is just a 10 minute walk from us down by the River Arno. Our hotel concierge assured us we would not get in as we hadn't booked. But being Kiwis, we bowled along anyway. And got in. Sure we had to pay a bit extra for priority entry but it was that or give it a miss. The vastness of the collection was far, far beyond our experience. We gasped in awe for 2 1/2 hours and then needed a coffee. An overwhelming experience.
So then off to a bus-stop but had to wait 50 minutes for the next red bus to arrive. It's this sort of constraint that limits what you can achieve in a day. Our backs and feet were so just so relieved to be able to get a top deck seat and sit on it. The weather was overcast today which was so much better, allowing us to see much more. Also miraculously we picked a seat with sound and English commentary. Not a common occurence.
Florence , known as the jewel of the Renaissence, used to be the capital of Italy. It is a city of flowers and romantics. I was thrilled by the luxurious greenery , bright beds of flowers and vibrant birdsong. Of course we're in Tuscany now so think "Under the Tuscan Sun". Melodious music surrounds the traveler and lures her further into the hills above the thronging city. We wished we had time to alight at every one of the stops on offer but we must be content with a superficial coverage.
When we had completed the 2 hour circuit, we walked down to the Ponte Vecchio which spans the River Arno. It is here that gold merchants built their house-shops, and it was packed with tourists craning their necks to view the billions of Euros of gold jewelry on display. No price tags were attached and the doors were all closed to the ogling tourists. Through these glass doors, we could see genuine buyers seated at elegant tables with sophisticated sales assistants enticing wealthy clients. Fascinating. I did manage to gain entry to one shop to view a pretty little simple gold bangle, but was not offered a seat. I even got to try it on and so glanced at the price tag of €380.00. I hummed and hahed for an appropriate time and then said it wasn't quite what I was looking for. Peter was relieved when I emerged.
Tomorrow we need to be at our pickup hotel by 8.00 am to join our Backroads tour of Tuscany.
Wednesday 5 June 2019
Wednesday 5 June, Florence
We arrived at our Borghese Palace Art Hotel at 11.58 last night and were given such an enthusiastic welcome by the receptionist who gave us a map and showed us all the places we needed to visit in our 2 days in this fair city. What I actually wanted was a cup of tea, and bless her, off she trotted to get me that as well.
What a maze this place is. Per courtesy of Maps Me we found our way to the hop-on-hop-off terminal but it's about half an hour's walk from here. Perhaps we'll manage better tomorrow. It's really hazardous having hundreds of tourists wandering along the narrow cobblestone alleyways with their eyes fixed on their mobiles. We missed so much of the wonders en route to our bus but fell thankfully into the arms of a woman who sold us everything on offer, pushed us on to a bus and sent us on our way telling us to alight at Stop 8. I did ask Peter later what was at that particular stop but he was even more confused than I. It was too hot to sit upstairs so we trundled along downstairs, seeing I don't know what as the earphones didn't work. When we alighted, there before us was a magnificent panorama of the whole of Florence!!!! Oh my!!!!! Turn around and there was David (just a replica you understand) right behind us. It just took our breath away.
However it was too hot to stand in that sun for any longer, so we hopped on another bus and again stayed downstairs. Suddenly I heard Boboli Gardens announced so Peter found his earplugs pulled out and he was standing on a different footpath. I had read about these gardens in the flight magazine coming up here so wanted to go there. Well, here we were. Peter needed a cappuccino first so we found a delightful supplier and some incredible delicacies which fitted us to explore these gardens, wherever they were. I was able to ask an approachable young woman "Dove Boboli Gardens per favore?" , and off we strode. What a paradise they are, modelled on Italian Gardens from 16th century with a vast array of sculptures. These included a contemporary collection by Tony Cragg, providing a sharp contrast with all the Renaissance figures. Peter just enjoyed sitting in the shade in one of the arbors listening to the shrilling birdsong. Truly remarkable.
When we returned from the city circuit some time later we searched for the Leonardo Da Vinchi museum, tickets for which our guide had sold us in the morning. By then we were more able to lift our heads ( as well as our feet) and take in some of the sights. Eventually we came across the inconspicuous doorway of the museum, handed in our tickets, and were enthralled by this collection of Da Vinci's work. Again we stayed for some considerable time soaking it all in.
I don't think we can do Florence in 2 days.
We arrived at our Borghese Palace Art Hotel at 11.58 last night and were given such an enthusiastic welcome by the receptionist who gave us a map and showed us all the places we needed to visit in our 2 days in this fair city. What I actually wanted was a cup of tea, and bless her, off she trotted to get me that as well.
What a maze this place is. Per courtesy of Maps Me we found our way to the hop-on-hop-off terminal but it's about half an hour's walk from here. Perhaps we'll manage better tomorrow. It's really hazardous having hundreds of tourists wandering along the narrow cobblestone alleyways with their eyes fixed on their mobiles. We missed so much of the wonders en route to our bus but fell thankfully into the arms of a woman who sold us everything on offer, pushed us on to a bus and sent us on our way telling us to alight at Stop 8. I did ask Peter later what was at that particular stop but he was even more confused than I. It was too hot to sit upstairs so we trundled along downstairs, seeing I don't know what as the earphones didn't work. When we alighted, there before us was a magnificent panorama of the whole of Florence!!!! Oh my!!!!! Turn around and there was David (just a replica you understand) right behind us. It just took our breath away.
However it was too hot to stand in that sun for any longer, so we hopped on another bus and again stayed downstairs. Suddenly I heard Boboli Gardens announced so Peter found his earplugs pulled out and he was standing on a different footpath. I had read about these gardens in the flight magazine coming up here so wanted to go there. Well, here we were. Peter needed a cappuccino first so we found a delightful supplier and some incredible delicacies which fitted us to explore these gardens, wherever they were. I was able to ask an approachable young woman "Dove Boboli Gardens per favore?" , and off we strode. What a paradise they are, modelled on Italian Gardens from 16th century with a vast array of sculptures. These included a contemporary collection by Tony Cragg, providing a sharp contrast with all the Renaissance figures. Peter just enjoyed sitting in the shade in one of the arbors listening to the shrilling birdsong. Truly remarkable.
When we returned from the city circuit some time later we searched for the Leonardo Da Vinchi museum, tickets for which our guide had sold us in the morning. By then we were more able to lift our heads ( as well as our feet) and take in some of the sights. Eventually we came across the inconspicuous doorway of the museum, handed in our tickets, and were enthralled by this collection of Da Vinci's work. Again we stayed for some considerable time soaking it all in.
I don't think we can do Florence in 2 days.
Monday 3 June 2019
Monday 3 June - St Julian's
We have just completed our final day here. Tomorrow we fly to Rome then wait for an age for our flight to Florence. There will be no diary entry for that lot. We land just before midnight so by the time we settle in to our hotel, it will be past my bed-time. Mind you, there may be time to do some catching up on personal mail instead of this generic broadsheet.
So top of the list was the Malta classic car museum which is located right at the Northern most tip of Malta. This is where Echocabs comes to the rescue. It's comparable to our Uber except that they take cash only as payment. Dangerous for the driver I would have thought, but they don't seem to have a crime problem in this country
So 10 minutes after Peter ordered a car, up he turned to our front gate in his late Peugot and then whizzed us James Bond style to the northern point and then couldn't find said museum. He was a very cool young man with much testosterone and minimal English. However eventually he got us to the front entrance after driving us around many blocks. Kind of dampened his image somewhat.
The street frontage sported a replica Bugatti and 2 very glamorous Italian receptionists who welcomed us warmly. The next 2 hours melted away into one of the most magnificent collections of classic cars we have visited. The museum actually restores and sells them world wide so they are all in mint condition.
Once we finally emerged into daylight again there was nothing for it but to patronize the Sicilian caffe next door. I resisted the racotta delicacies right around Sicily but thought I should at least try one before we leave. Oh my, that's why Sicilians are the shape they are. I certainly don't need another, ever.
So another echocab materialized about 5 minutes after Peter ordered one, but this time with a charming sedate senior drive who gave us a fabulous return trip together with delightful conversation.
The afternoon was spent in a serious appreciation of the elusive St John's Co-cathedral of Valetta. No queue!!!!! We just walked straight in. Extraordinary. The building has been described as a unique, holy museum/ Baroque art gallery . It was built between 1573 and 1578 as a place for the Knights of St John to gather for communal worship. One of its greatest treasures is a huge painting of John the Baptist by Caravaggio. I photographed it but for those of you not on fb, you have missed nothing. It is beyond photography. We have had three attempts at experiencing this monumental edifice, and our persistence was well worth while.
Peter and I then parted company for the first time in 3 weeks. He had made arrangements to attend a Property Investors meeting and I to attend an Inner Wheel one. We had expected to meet up again at the end of the evening, but Peter's meeting was just a brief business committee meeting with no social frills, so he was able to join me to attend my dinner which was all frills. We met up with 4 delightful Maltese women who were just out for an evening's fun,and then 2 sisters of one of them joined us. The woman who will be the in-coming president is a major TV presenter with her own programme. What a personality!!! Actually each one of them was a character in her own way. They didn't seem interested in having any connection with anyone outside their club. However they were so gracious to Peter and me and paid for yet another sumptuous meal. We had a charming evening together. I doubt they will want to keep in contact. I was sitting next to the member who is the International service officer. She was not the person who eventually answered any of my emails and gave all the inter club material and NZ post cards I had taken to another member without so much as looking at them. She was born in Malta and not ever been out of Malta, nor as it turned out, remotely interested in anything but Malta. Very funny.
We have just completed our final day here. Tomorrow we fly to Rome then wait for an age for our flight to Florence. There will be no diary entry for that lot. We land just before midnight so by the time we settle in to our hotel, it will be past my bed-time. Mind you, there may be time to do some catching up on personal mail instead of this generic broadsheet.
So top of the list was the Malta classic car museum which is located right at the Northern most tip of Malta. This is where Echocabs comes to the rescue. It's comparable to our Uber except that they take cash only as payment. Dangerous for the driver I would have thought, but they don't seem to have a crime problem in this country
So 10 minutes after Peter ordered a car, up he turned to our front gate in his late Peugot and then whizzed us James Bond style to the northern point and then couldn't find said museum. He was a very cool young man with much testosterone and minimal English. However eventually he got us to the front entrance after driving us around many blocks. Kind of dampened his image somewhat.
The street frontage sported a replica Bugatti and 2 very glamorous Italian receptionists who welcomed us warmly. The next 2 hours melted away into one of the most magnificent collections of classic cars we have visited. The museum actually restores and sells them world wide so they are all in mint condition.
Once we finally emerged into daylight again there was nothing for it but to patronize the Sicilian caffe next door. I resisted the racotta delicacies right around Sicily but thought I should at least try one before we leave. Oh my, that's why Sicilians are the shape they are. I certainly don't need another, ever.
So another echocab materialized about 5 minutes after Peter ordered one, but this time with a charming sedate senior drive who gave us a fabulous return trip together with delightful conversation.
The afternoon was spent in a serious appreciation of the elusive St John's Co-cathedral of Valetta. No queue!!!!! We just walked straight in. Extraordinary. The building has been described as a unique, holy museum/ Baroque art gallery . It was built between 1573 and 1578 as a place for the Knights of St John to gather for communal worship. One of its greatest treasures is a huge painting of John the Baptist by Caravaggio. I photographed it but for those of you not on fb, you have missed nothing. It is beyond photography. We have had three attempts at experiencing this monumental edifice, and our persistence was well worth while.
Peter and I then parted company for the first time in 3 weeks. He had made arrangements to attend a Property Investors meeting and I to attend an Inner Wheel one. We had expected to meet up again at the end of the evening, but Peter's meeting was just a brief business committee meeting with no social frills, so he was able to join me to attend my dinner which was all frills. We met up with 4 delightful Maltese women who were just out for an evening's fun,and then 2 sisters of one of them joined us. The woman who will be the in-coming president is a major TV presenter with her own programme. What a personality!!! Actually each one of them was a character in her own way. They didn't seem interested in having any connection with anyone outside their club. However they were so gracious to Peter and me and paid for yet another sumptuous meal. We had a charming evening together. I doubt they will want to keep in contact. I was sitting next to the member who is the International service officer. She was not the person who eventually answered any of my emails and gave all the inter club material and NZ post cards I had taken to another member without so much as looking at them. She was born in Malta and not ever been out of Malta, nor as it turned out, remotely interested in anything but Malta. Very funny.
Sunday 2 June 2019
Sunday 2 June - St Julian's
The day started with that ominous dripping sound once I had finished the dishes. However, Peter was happy and content to ring our landlord (again), give him the soggy news and then lock the door to go out for the day. When we returned, there was a bucket placed in a strategic position. I guess Maltese plumbers double their hourly rate on Sundays just like Auckland ones do.
We have established a few friends at the bus station now. Our leaking flat is so well positioned just down the road and around the corner from the hub of the area. We've got it all sussed now, of course, and just swan off for the day. We've even learned how to jump the bus queues and elbow our way in. We don't need to really because we're so much older than anyone else, and they have to give up their front seats for the elderly. Such a good idea.
We found our way to Sliema where everyone hops off and catches whatever they hold tickets for. Ours
were for the Harbour.Cruise which was a freebie from our dear Josef for doing all our bookings through his company. It was a beautiful day, although still not particularly warm, and off we tootled in our pretty little boat. Our sort of cruise boat. An hour took us slowly through the three harbours. I accepted the glass of wine just like posh people have on cruises. We glided passed two gigantic cruise boats which dwarfed us completely, but of course we could squeeze into all the nooks and crannies of the coastline. Once again the commentary made it all so very interesting.
When we returned, Peter was in need of nourishment having missed out on the morning offering, so I took him to the Mark's & Spencer's cafe which put me in credit. It's an Ezibuy sort of a shop and again I could find a must-have in their sale. Nothing like a bit of retail therapy for a girl. Peter found himself a husband chair so plugged in his audiobook. All good.
All of that gave us the courage to travel by public transport for the remainder of our day. €1.50 got us sailing across to Valetta to explore on our own. Then when we'd clocked up 12,000 steps we spent another €1.50 to bus back to St Julians. So incredibly easy and cheap. The bus stops right at our corner!!
Only one more day to go now. We'll have yet another go at St John's Co-cathedral. There sure weren't any queues there today. Most places were shut. A day's respite from pesky tourists.
The day started with that ominous dripping sound once I had finished the dishes. However, Peter was happy and content to ring our landlord (again), give him the soggy news and then lock the door to go out for the day. When we returned, there was a bucket placed in a strategic position. I guess Maltese plumbers double their hourly rate on Sundays just like Auckland ones do.
We have established a few friends at the bus station now. Our leaking flat is so well positioned just down the road and around the corner from the hub of the area. We've got it all sussed now, of course, and just swan off for the day. We've even learned how to jump the bus queues and elbow our way in. We don't need to really because we're so much older than anyone else, and they have to give up their front seats for the elderly. Such a good idea.
We found our way to Sliema where everyone hops off and catches whatever they hold tickets for. Ours
were for the Harbour.Cruise which was a freebie from our dear Josef for doing all our bookings through his company. It was a beautiful day, although still not particularly warm, and off we tootled in our pretty little boat. Our sort of cruise boat. An hour took us slowly through the three harbours. I accepted the glass of wine just like posh people have on cruises. We glided passed two gigantic cruise boats which dwarfed us completely, but of course we could squeeze into all the nooks and crannies of the coastline. Once again the commentary made it all so very interesting.
When we returned, Peter was in need of nourishment having missed out on the morning offering, so I took him to the Mark's & Spencer's cafe which put me in credit. It's an Ezibuy sort of a shop and again I could find a must-have in their sale. Nothing like a bit of retail therapy for a girl. Peter found himself a husband chair so plugged in his audiobook. All good.
All of that gave us the courage to travel by public transport for the remainder of our day. €1.50 got us sailing across to Valetta to explore on our own. Then when we'd clocked up 12,000 steps we spent another €1.50 to bus back to St Julians. So incredibly easy and cheap. The bus stops right at our corner!!
Only one more day to go now. We'll have yet another go at St John's Co-cathedral. There sure weren't any queues there today. Most places were shut. A day's respite from pesky tourists.
Saturday 1 June 2019
Saturday 1 June - St Julian's
Today's goal was the North hop-on-hop-off bus, thus circumnavating Malta. There were 3 main must-see sites, but we really ran out of time to do the third properly.
First hop-off was the Aviation Museum which Peter will write up in every little detail with illustrations for you. I was happy to have a conversation with the Museum cat, but then I wandered into one hangar that was screening details of the Second Great Seige of Malta - a superb documentary which I could relate to after the enlightening day we had yesterday. Unfortunately I missed the start of it so only saw from the Valetta Harbiur entry of the SS Orion through to the Declaration of Independence in the 1970s. I couldn't go back to the start as our bus was due to arrive.
On we went to Mosta which lies at the heart of Malta. At its centre is a magnificent domed church completed in 1860. On 9 April 1942 the church was hit by a bomb dropped by a German. It pierced the dome and fell to the floor but lay dormant thereby saving the lives of the 300 devout worshippers there at the time. The German returned to Malta after the war to seek forgiveness. There is of course an entry fee to the church, and more to visit the bomb shelter. We declined the additional fee to climb the 76 steps to the dome. I am struggling now to climb the steps onto all the buses let alone 76 of them to see the view.
Back onto the trusty hop-on-hop-off bus to Mdina which is the old capital of Malta with its origins traced back to 1500 BC. Impressive palaces line its narrow streets. It is considered one of the finest examples of an ancient walled city.
There are many sights on offer there but we chose an epic adventure museum called The Knights of Malta which traced the brutal history of the Knights through to the present day. By the time we emerged from that breathtaking experience we got lost in the maze in our attempts to find the church. We got into one which was under restoration and plunged in gloom. I can't believe it was THE one but it was time to catch the next bus. I had to go into one of the many shops to ask for our way out of the city and onto the bus. We would have liked far more time there but we just can't do it all.
Today's goal was the North hop-on-hop-off bus, thus circumnavating Malta. There were 3 main must-see sites, but we really ran out of time to do the third properly.
First hop-off was the Aviation Museum which Peter will write up in every little detail with illustrations for you. I was happy to have a conversation with the Museum cat, but then I wandered into one hangar that was screening details of the Second Great Seige of Malta - a superb documentary which I could relate to after the enlightening day we had yesterday. Unfortunately I missed the start of it so only saw from the Valetta Harbiur entry of the SS Orion through to the Declaration of Independence in the 1970s. I couldn't go back to the start as our bus was due to arrive.
On we went to Mosta which lies at the heart of Malta. At its centre is a magnificent domed church completed in 1860. On 9 April 1942 the church was hit by a bomb dropped by a German. It pierced the dome and fell to the floor but lay dormant thereby saving the lives of the 300 devout worshippers there at the time. The German returned to Malta after the war to seek forgiveness. There is of course an entry fee to the church, and more to visit the bomb shelter. We declined the additional fee to climb the 76 steps to the dome. I am struggling now to climb the steps onto all the buses let alone 76 of them to see the view.
Back onto the trusty hop-on-hop-off bus to Mdina which is the old capital of Malta with its origins traced back to 1500 BC. Impressive palaces line its narrow streets. It is considered one of the finest examples of an ancient walled city.
There are many sights on offer there but we chose an epic adventure museum called The Knights of Malta which traced the brutal history of the Knights through to the present day. By the time we emerged from that breathtaking experience we got lost in the maze in our attempts to find the church. We got into one which was under restoration and plunged in gloom. I can't believe it was THE one but it was time to catch the next bus. I had to go into one of the many shops to ask for our way out of the city and onto the bus. We would have liked far more time there but we just can't do it all.
Friday 31 May 2019
Friday, 31 May - St Julian's
I am going to have to write my blog twice daily because so much is happening each day that I cannot tell you everything in one sitting. I just have to start today's write-up with last night's cataclysm - Peter doing his laundry. You'll be interested in that. Just before retiring for the night, Peter felt a strong urge to do his laundry. Pretty simple really. Just pop the knickers in the machine and go to bed. No worries. After awhile I noticed the street lights reflecting on the tiled floor. Pretty. But why hadn't I noticed this feature any previous night? Because it was a water feature. Why would we suddenly have a water feature? Because we have water. By now you will have guessed the cause of the problem, the washing machine. So I had to ring the owner. There was nothing in our unit to cope with a flood. About 15 minutes later a sleepy--eyed landlord turned up to discover the pipe had become detached from the drain. And thus he met his current guests. Peter thoroughly enjoyed sitting chatting to Mark while he fixed the washing machine and soaked up his flooded property.
And now to today's full day tour entitled "The Second World War in Malta & its British History (1798 - 1979)" . This tour is only available once a week so we were extremely fortunate to be in town on a Friday. There were 12 tourists and our guide Vincent who is Maltese. Our tour began in the Vittoriosa Museum and commemorated the 3,000 sailors who were killed in this very harbour area. I had read the Nicolas Monserrat book "The Kapillan of Malta" (thanks Josephine) and also "Operation Mincemeat" which are essential background reading to be able to appreciate the tour. However, how different it was to walk through these catacombs which were air raid shelters for 500 people at a time for between 2 hours to 5 days. Residents had 8 minutes to grab what they could once the sirens started and get themselves into sub-terrainian safety. The critical thing to take was a bucket as the original residents of the catacombs did not require toilet facilities. And remember, most air attacks were during the night. Our wonderful tour guide Ruth explained the myriad of human problems that arose during the long periods of incarceration. The birth rate doubled during this time so a birthing room had to be scraped out of the limestone caves. Many thousands of people died purely because of disease. Food was rationed increasingly to 1 slice of bread per day per person.
We then were taken into Valetta for a walking tour through some of the streets and much information was given to us about the Knights of St John who came to Malta in 1530. Then we heard the complicated history from then to today. Fascinating. So different being on location listening to it and seeing the stunning portrayal in the Museum.
And another paragraph needs to be written about the wing of the Museum devoted to the unbelievable arrival of the SS Ohio in 1942 just days before Malta was going to surrender. It was the bravery of her captain and surviving crew who sailed into Valetta with life-saving supplies of fuel and food, thus allowing the remaining Maltese to continue their fight to victory. WHAT a story
It's no wonder that King George awarded the George Cross the all residents of Malta on April 15 1942.
There is so much more I could share with you, but you will just have to come and experience it all for yourself. It's looking as if it 9 days here are going to be inadequate.
I am going to have to write my blog twice daily because so much is happening each day that I cannot tell you everything in one sitting. I just have to start today's write-up with last night's cataclysm - Peter doing his laundry. You'll be interested in that. Just before retiring for the night, Peter felt a strong urge to do his laundry. Pretty simple really. Just pop the knickers in the machine and go to bed. No worries. After awhile I noticed the street lights reflecting on the tiled floor. Pretty. But why hadn't I noticed this feature any previous night? Because it was a water feature. Why would we suddenly have a water feature? Because we have water. By now you will have guessed the cause of the problem, the washing machine. So I had to ring the owner. There was nothing in our unit to cope with a flood. About 15 minutes later a sleepy--eyed landlord turned up to discover the pipe had become detached from the drain. And thus he met his current guests. Peter thoroughly enjoyed sitting chatting to Mark while he fixed the washing machine and soaked up his flooded property.
And now to today's full day tour entitled "The Second World War in Malta & its British History (1798 - 1979)" . This tour is only available once a week so we were extremely fortunate to be in town on a Friday. There were 12 tourists and our guide Vincent who is Maltese. Our tour began in the Vittoriosa Museum and commemorated the 3,000 sailors who were killed in this very harbour area. I had read the Nicolas Monserrat book "The Kapillan of Malta" (thanks Josephine) and also "Operation Mincemeat" which are essential background reading to be able to appreciate the tour. However, how different it was to walk through these catacombs which were air raid shelters for 500 people at a time for between 2 hours to 5 days. Residents had 8 minutes to grab what they could once the sirens started and get themselves into sub-terrainian safety. The critical thing to take was a bucket as the original residents of the catacombs did not require toilet facilities. And remember, most air attacks were during the night. Our wonderful tour guide Ruth explained the myriad of human problems that arose during the long periods of incarceration. The birth rate doubled during this time so a birthing room had to be scraped out of the limestone caves. Many thousands of people died purely because of disease. Food was rationed increasingly to 1 slice of bread per day per person.
We then were taken into Valetta for a walking tour through some of the streets and much information was given to us about the Knights of St John who came to Malta in 1530. Then we heard the complicated history from then to today. Fascinating. So different being on location listening to it and seeing the stunning portrayal in the Museum.
And another paragraph needs to be written about the wing of the Museum devoted to the unbelievable arrival of the SS Ohio in 1942 just days before Malta was going to surrender. It was the bravery of her captain and surviving crew who sailed into Valetta with life-saving supplies of fuel and food, thus allowing the remaining Maltese to continue their fight to victory. WHAT a story
It's no wonder that King George awarded the George Cross the all residents of Malta on April 15 1942.
There is so much more I could share with you, but you will just have to come and experience it all for yourself. It's looking as if it 9 days here are going to be inadequate.
Thursday 30 May 2019
Thursday 30 May - Camino Island
We have anchored here so that hordes of young fit people from every sector of the globe can climb , swim, snorkel , jet boat, to their hearts content for an hour before reboarding, cold and very wet for the hour's sail back to Malta. And me? I disembarked, took one look at the steep rocky terrain, and decided I'd sooner have my free glass of wine, and write to you. Peter disembarked , lept over the rocks, took 2 photos of the rocks on the other side, and is now tucked up happy and content with his audio book. I have no idea whether he wakes or sleeps. He's certainly not moving.
We awoke in our cute little b and b in Marsalforn to a cold wet morning, and were very pleased to wander downstairs to a comprehensive Maltese breakfast including gluten free food and 4 types of homemade marmalade. We chattered with a diving man from Switzerland and a French couple. Other guests kept to themselves.
The hop-on-hop-off bus was not scheduled to call in at our stop till 11.00am, but we were there half an hour early. Marsalforn was endearing last evening, but not at all compelling this morning in these conditions.
It was a short trip through to the capital, Rabat, so we disembarked and started our search for this Citadel and that Cathedral. Truly, I have no idea what we should be looking at and which alleyway to choose. None of the imposing buildings with ringing bells were open, so I took some photos of a few, but then settled for a coffee and a gf muffin I was given for breakfast.
A stallholder lured me with his magnificent Maltese lace tablecloths. I had carefully measured my mother-in-law's old table which I still use, had written the measurements closed and extended, had brought a tape measure so was all prepared for my purchase. I had put my preparations in a safe place , and there they remain. In the rain, shortly before our next bus was departing, I just had to guess, pay the happy vendor whatever he asked, and run. Let's hope noone spills beetroot juice on it.
We toured around the western side of Gozo but were nervous about getting off in the rain for photos. Every where we looked was so biblical! We have not experienced anything like it in former travel.
The babble is increasing in our deck of the ferry, as cold wet tourists are returning from their Camino experiences. How can people come in such a variety of guises and make so many different noises? Funnily enough we have been recognized as Kiwis by numbers of people on our tours. I guess because we're the only normal, ordinary people around. One of my funniest experiences today was with 4 Jamaican women in a public toilet. There were 4 toilets but, you guessed it, 3 were out of order, as they always are. Well, these 4 had me in stitches. They were so theatrical and their singing was very Harry Belafonte. They were dressed in full regalia with magnificently beaded braids. I didn't mind the wait at all.
We seem to be moving off, so I'll say Haere ra to Gozo, and thanks for all the fish.
We have anchored here so that hordes of young fit people from every sector of the globe can climb , swim, snorkel , jet boat, to their hearts content for an hour before reboarding, cold and very wet for the hour's sail back to Malta. And me? I disembarked, took one look at the steep rocky terrain, and decided I'd sooner have my free glass of wine, and write to you. Peter disembarked , lept over the rocks, took 2 photos of the rocks on the other side, and is now tucked up happy and content with his audio book. I have no idea whether he wakes or sleeps. He's certainly not moving.
We awoke in our cute little b and b in Marsalforn to a cold wet morning, and were very pleased to wander downstairs to a comprehensive Maltese breakfast including gluten free food and 4 types of homemade marmalade. We chattered with a diving man from Switzerland and a French couple. Other guests kept to themselves.
The hop-on-hop-off bus was not scheduled to call in at our stop till 11.00am, but we were there half an hour early. Marsalforn was endearing last evening, but not at all compelling this morning in these conditions.
It was a short trip through to the capital, Rabat, so we disembarked and started our search for this Citadel and that Cathedral. Truly, I have no idea what we should be looking at and which alleyway to choose. None of the imposing buildings with ringing bells were open, so I took some photos of a few, but then settled for a coffee and a gf muffin I was given for breakfast.
A stallholder lured me with his magnificent Maltese lace tablecloths. I had carefully measured my mother-in-law's old table which I still use, had written the measurements closed and extended, had brought a tape measure so was all prepared for my purchase. I had put my preparations in a safe place , and there they remain. In the rain, shortly before our next bus was departing, I just had to guess, pay the happy vendor whatever he asked, and run. Let's hope noone spills beetroot juice on it.
We toured around the western side of Gozo but were nervous about getting off in the rain for photos. Every where we looked was so biblical! We have not experienced anything like it in former travel.
The babble is increasing in our deck of the ferry, as cold wet tourists are returning from their Camino experiences. How can people come in such a variety of guises and make so many different noises? Funnily enough we have been recognized as Kiwis by numbers of people on our tours. I guess because we're the only normal, ordinary people around. One of my funniest experiences today was with 4 Jamaican women in a public toilet. There were 4 toilets but, you guessed it, 3 were out of order, as they always are. Well, these 4 had me in stitches. They were so theatrical and their singing was very Harry Belafonte. They were dressed in full regalia with magnificently beaded braids. I didn't mind the wait at all.
We seem to be moving off, so I'll say Haere ra to Gozo, and thanks for all the fish.
Wednesday 29 May 2019
Wed 29 May - Gozo
Yes well, I thought if I put Marsalforn as my address you wouldn't know where to find me on the map, but you all know Gozo.
This required a very early start of 6.30am to breakfast, pack and be ready to push our way onto the bus at the main St Julian's centre some blocks away. It's hard to belief this is not yet the tourist season. There are flocks of them already. Some 20 mins later we all tumbled out and found our way to the end of a long queue to board the ferry to carry us the hour and a half trip from Malta to Gozo. The ship takes 400 passengers and is equipped with a bar and nibble nook. There was a long queue there before we set sail but people waited patiently to crack into the alcohol at 10.00am.
The trip (for those of us interested in the picturesque scenery) was splendid, affording different views of historic features that we had seen from the hop-on-hop-off bus. The most spectacular for me was the famed Blue Grotto which was unequaled for its colouring. I had been disappointed not to have time to hop off at this point yesterday, but how much better to float right into it today.
We arrived at the Gozo terminal where most of the day trippers disembarked and packed onto buses to take us to Victoria, the capital, where our driver insisted that EVERYONE must disembark. He would pick us all up at 2.30 to return us to the ferry. NO!!!!! We were bound for Marsalforn for our overnight stay. No, no, no, we must get off. Well, Peter refused. It was only when he took the driver's photo that he relented and said he would allow us to stay on for the drive. All this in full Italian voice with much waving of the hands. So I passively boarded the bus again and we drove off as the only passengers - back to the ferry terminal. UM!!! Now what? This required way more gesticulating and assurance that the lady would come. We didn't want a lady. We wanted to get to Marsalforn . Eventually "the lady" arrived. Hey, she could speak English!!! All we needed to do was pay many more euros in cash and get back onto the bus again and off we would go.That easy. Forget the plastic card. Most suppliers want cash.
This time we found headsets that worked so we could enjoy the commentary - in English. How extremely interesting. What an astounding history. Xagbra has the oldest site of civilization in the world. It is not open to the public for obvious reasons. One in five families in Gozo are involved in the tomato trade. Gozalites are the first peoples recorded as practising crop rotation eg tomatoes are planted after potatoes are havested.
We so wanted to get off at the various tourist spots but actually we needed to get to Marselforn where I had booked our room. It is an old fishing village with a resident population of 750 but a very popular tourist spot with a beautiful sea frontage. Legend has it that St Paul stopped off here on his way from Malta all those years ago. I'm not surprised. It has magnificent beach front restaurant with food to die for, like the meal we are eating right now. A lovely local chardonnay too complements the sea bass.
Yes well, I thought if I put Marsalforn as my address you wouldn't know where to find me on the map, but you all know Gozo.
This required a very early start of 6.30am to breakfast, pack and be ready to push our way onto the bus at the main St Julian's centre some blocks away. It's hard to belief this is not yet the tourist season. There are flocks of them already. Some 20 mins later we all tumbled out and found our way to the end of a long queue to board the ferry to carry us the hour and a half trip from Malta to Gozo. The ship takes 400 passengers and is equipped with a bar and nibble nook. There was a long queue there before we set sail but people waited patiently to crack into the alcohol at 10.00am.
The trip (for those of us interested in the picturesque scenery) was splendid, affording different views of historic features that we had seen from the hop-on-hop-off bus. The most spectacular for me was the famed Blue Grotto which was unequaled for its colouring. I had been disappointed not to have time to hop off at this point yesterday, but how much better to float right into it today.
We arrived at the Gozo terminal where most of the day trippers disembarked and packed onto buses to take us to Victoria, the capital, where our driver insisted that EVERYONE must disembark. He would pick us all up at 2.30 to return us to the ferry. NO!!!!! We were bound for Marsalforn for our overnight stay. No, no, no, we must get off. Well, Peter refused. It was only when he took the driver's photo that he relented and said he would allow us to stay on for the drive. All this in full Italian voice with much waving of the hands. So I passively boarded the bus again and we drove off as the only passengers - back to the ferry terminal. UM!!! Now what? This required way more gesticulating and assurance that the lady would come. We didn't want a lady. We wanted to get to Marsalforn . Eventually "the lady" arrived. Hey, she could speak English!!! All we needed to do was pay many more euros in cash and get back onto the bus again and off we would go.That easy. Forget the plastic card. Most suppliers want cash.
This time we found headsets that worked so we could enjoy the commentary - in English. How extremely interesting. What an astounding history. Xagbra has the oldest site of civilization in the world. It is not open to the public for obvious reasons. One in five families in Gozo are involved in the tomato trade. Gozalites are the first peoples recorded as practising crop rotation eg tomatoes are planted after potatoes are havested.
We so wanted to get off at the various tourist spots but actually we needed to get to Marselforn where I had booked our room. It is an old fishing village with a resident population of 750 but a very popular tourist spot with a beautiful sea frontage. Legend has it that St Paul stopped off here on his way from Malta all those years ago. I'm not surprised. It has magnificent beach front restaurant with food to die for, like the meal we are eating right now. A lovely local chardonnay too complements the sea bass.
Tuesday 28 May 2019
Tuesday 28 May - St Julian's waterfront
I so wish you could join me in this restaurant, sipping your pina colada looking out at the Ioanian Sea at her most tranquil. A cool breeze is blowing but not enough to rock the colorful fishing boats at anchor. There is a relentless flow of tourists strolling along to select the best spot for their pre-dinner cocktails. The sky is still cobalt blue unspoiled by clouds. Hard to realise the devastation that took place just a short 70 years ago. This particular area is well restored with a delightful combination of old architecture and glittering contemporary styles.
Our day started with a visit to our friend Yusef who was delighted to take the bookings for our selected tours. 9 nights are inadequate to do all that is on offer but I think we will know more about the country than we did yesterday.
Yusef escorted us to the central terminal , the hub of all tours. He is very careful of his elderly Kiwis. I rather suspect that he is new on the job as he is conferring with his boss every step of the way. One of my selected tours was of the Aquarium and bird park, but Yusef assured me the birds had run away.
So away we went on the first of our hop-on-hop-off tours of eastern Malta. Our goal was to take photos of St John's Cathedral in Valetta for Josephine who was cruelly barred from this magnificent edifice by a storm which prevented her cruise boat from coming in to berth in Valetta last year. I would not have bothered with the cruisboat crowds and long queues but ,if all she wanted was a photo, I would photograph it. Peter sat and held my backpack and I joined the queue. I thought I'd just nip in, take a couple of shots and whistle out. Well, never ever have I been so wrong. They say to allow 2 hours to view it. Yes. I would agree. It was sensationally magnificent. Thank you Josephine.
By the time we had lunch and missed the next bus, we could not hop off at any other stop, but it was fascinating to absorb the contrasting developments and rebuilding of this part of Malta with its 400,000 residents.
Peter had chosen and booked a night tour of Valetta which only runs on a Tuesday night so here we are waiting for our guided tour back into Valetta. But how different it will be by night. Billions of euros have been poured into the reconstruction of this historic country stretching back tens of thousands of year. And there is so much more to be done.
I so wish you could join me in this restaurant, sipping your pina colada looking out at the Ioanian Sea at her most tranquil. A cool breeze is blowing but not enough to rock the colorful fishing boats at anchor. There is a relentless flow of tourists strolling along to select the best spot for their pre-dinner cocktails. The sky is still cobalt blue unspoiled by clouds. Hard to realise the devastation that took place just a short 70 years ago. This particular area is well restored with a delightful combination of old architecture and glittering contemporary styles.
Our day started with a visit to our friend Yusef who was delighted to take the bookings for our selected tours. 9 nights are inadequate to do all that is on offer but I think we will know more about the country than we did yesterday.
Yusef escorted us to the central terminal , the hub of all tours. He is very careful of his elderly Kiwis. I rather suspect that he is new on the job as he is conferring with his boss every step of the way. One of my selected tours was of the Aquarium and bird park, but Yusef assured me the birds had run away.
So away we went on the first of our hop-on-hop-off tours of eastern Malta. Our goal was to take photos of St John's Cathedral in Valetta for Josephine who was cruelly barred from this magnificent edifice by a storm which prevented her cruise boat from coming in to berth in Valetta last year. I would not have bothered with the cruisboat crowds and long queues but ,if all she wanted was a photo, I would photograph it. Peter sat and held my backpack and I joined the queue. I thought I'd just nip in, take a couple of shots and whistle out. Well, never ever have I been so wrong. They say to allow 2 hours to view it. Yes. I would agree. It was sensationally magnificent. Thank you Josephine.
By the time we had lunch and missed the next bus, we could not hop off at any other stop, but it was fascinating to absorb the contrasting developments and rebuilding of this part of Malta with its 400,000 residents.
Peter had chosen and booked a night tour of Valetta which only runs on a Tuesday night so here we are waiting for our guided tour back into Valetta. But how different it will be by night. Billions of euros have been poured into the reconstruction of this historic country stretching back tens of thousands of year. And there is so much more to be done.
Monday 27 May 2019
Monday 27 May - St Julian's, Malta
Our day began at 3.15 this morning, and clutching our breakfast bag we boarded our taxi at 4.00am. Apparently it takes between 1 hour and 1 1/2 hours to get to the Catania airport but we beat the Monday morning traffic jams. 40 mins and we were there. A great time to travel. Nothing was open at the airport so we looked for somewhere to sit and consume our packed brekkie. Ah, there was dear old Mackers so we settled ourselves in there and logged into their internet. God bless the golden arches with its lights on. A short time thereafter a woman stepped out of the lift and looked absolutely horrified at us. We're not open said she. That's ok said I, we're fine thanks. No, you cannot sit there, said she. We're closed. So where can we sit, said I. I don't know, said she, but not here, whereupon she disappeared and turned the lights off. I don't think the Colonel would be pleased. We certainly weren't. There was absolutely nowhere to sit downstairs in the vast terminal and our check-in didn't open for another hour. However, down we went in the lift again and stood forlornly. Ah-ha, there was a man lifting a roller door of a coffee bar and starting to put out tables and chairs . We were his first customers of the day. And I managed to get a wonderful gluten free brioche thing and a large cup of English breakfast tea steaming hot. Up yours, MacDonalds.
In due course our Air Malta check-in opened and relieved us of 42 kg of luggage and off we went to our lounge. All good. The flight over was 40 mins and so clear. Hopefully you can see Peter's photos of the Island. We walked straight through customs and settled ourselves in that terminal with the essential cappuccinos. Internet was quick and I was able to catch up with my fb photos from yesterday, and letters to friends and family. We had to wait until our Airbnb was cleaned out after the last guests but we were allowed to taxi up to St Julian's to drop our bags off. Excellent.
When we enter a new town we are so bewildered by the strangeness especially here where the whole place is under reconstruction after the WWII annihilation . However, we stumbled across Joseph, (Yussef) an Arabian travel agent who had just enough English to give us lots of tourist brochures and make suggestions for our 9 night visit. He gave us such useful information such as where the best supermarket is, who sells the best garden produce and where to catch the hop-on-hop-off bus. By the time we had an omelette for lunch it was time to return to our cleaned little apartment and go to sleep.
Tonight we strode confidently into the night in search of food (again). Well what a buzz!!!! We found a fabulous restaurant down at the harbour's edge and after the best rabbit stew in red wine sauce, strolled around the magnificent new nightlife centre clutching our gelato.
I think we are going to be very happy in Malta.
Our day began at 3.15 this morning, and clutching our breakfast bag we boarded our taxi at 4.00am. Apparently it takes between 1 hour and 1 1/2 hours to get to the Catania airport but we beat the Monday morning traffic jams. 40 mins and we were there. A great time to travel. Nothing was open at the airport so we looked for somewhere to sit and consume our packed brekkie. Ah, there was dear old Mackers so we settled ourselves in there and logged into their internet. God bless the golden arches with its lights on. A short time thereafter a woman stepped out of the lift and looked absolutely horrified at us. We're not open said she. That's ok said I, we're fine thanks. No, you cannot sit there, said she. We're closed. So where can we sit, said I. I don't know, said she, but not here, whereupon she disappeared and turned the lights off. I don't think the Colonel would be pleased. We certainly weren't. There was absolutely nowhere to sit downstairs in the vast terminal and our check-in didn't open for another hour. However, down we went in the lift again and stood forlornly. Ah-ha, there was a man lifting a roller door of a coffee bar and starting to put out tables and chairs . We were his first customers of the day. And I managed to get a wonderful gluten free brioche thing and a large cup of English breakfast tea steaming hot. Up yours, MacDonalds.
In due course our Air Malta check-in opened and relieved us of 42 kg of luggage and off we went to our lounge. All good. The flight over was 40 mins and so clear. Hopefully you can see Peter's photos of the Island. We walked straight through customs and settled ourselves in that terminal with the essential cappuccinos. Internet was quick and I was able to catch up with my fb photos from yesterday, and letters to friends and family. We had to wait until our Airbnb was cleaned out after the last guests but we were allowed to taxi up to St Julian's to drop our bags off. Excellent.
When we enter a new town we are so bewildered by the strangeness especially here where the whole place is under reconstruction after the WWII annihilation . However, we stumbled across Joseph, (Yussef) an Arabian travel agent who had just enough English to give us lots of tourist brochures and make suggestions for our 9 night visit. He gave us such useful information such as where the best supermarket is, who sells the best garden produce and where to catch the hop-on-hop-off bus. By the time we had an omelette for lunch it was time to return to our cleaned little apartment and go to sleep.
Tonight we strode confidently into the night in search of food (again). Well what a buzz!!!! We found a fabulous restaurant down at the harbour's edge and after the best rabbit stew in red wine sauce, strolled around the magnificent new nightlife centre clutching our gelato.
I think we are going to be very happy in Malta.
Sunday 26 May 2019
Sun 26 May - Taormina River
It had obviously rained during the night, but was not raining until we started walking to the bus and then only a light drizzle. It was 7 degrees C. Totally unseasonal. Of course winter is January/ February in these parts but this year it started snowing the week we arrived. I THOUGHT it was cold. As our bus zigged and zagged through the villages up the mountain there were vestiges of snow. Mt Etna is the largest active volcano in Europe. Today there are 4 1/2 active craters. It is an example of a Strombolian volcano as it has a lot of spectacular high explosions . The last very strong 7.3 earthquake was in 2001 that did considerable damage but there was a smaller one just this last Christmas causing far less damage because of newly introduced building regulations. It has lateral craters as well. On the slopes of this wonderfully fertile landscape grow chestnut trees, broom, pink valerian. Our guide was Vanessa who lives in the highest village of Zefferona where saffron grows. Broom is the symbol of Mt Etna. It is also famed for its honey which is offered in a variety of flavors. The Wildlife on the slopes are wild cats and rabbits, foxes and falcons. There are 2 ski resorts which open for seasons of 2 weeks to 2 months.
We stopped driving at 7,000 ft and disembarked for a coffee at an excellent large centre and it was then that we were hit with a bitterly icy blast and quite heavy rain. The coffee was so welcome and greatly enhanced by their very strong liqueur like drinking fire. I loved it.
We then we were driven a little way down for those who were prepared to brave the elements to view one of the lateral craters but I headed straight for the bar to mingle with the crowds of other tourists. By the time I emerged in search of our group members and bus the clouds had come down creating a whiteout. However it was such a very worthwhile trip contrasting dramatically with any other of our travel experience.
We cautiously zigged and zagged our way down through the clouds to our hotel where we quickly found a restaurant which served real Italian minestrone soup. Superb!!!!!
After a short break, we clambered back onto the coach again and set off to Taormina - known as the Sicilian Monte Carlo - in the pouring rain.
It is a beautiful coastal town with a population of 11,000 people and is financed purely by the thousands of tourist who come year round to experience the Greek Theatre built in 3 BC. Miraculously, as we stepped into the city streets the rain stopped, allowing as to enjoy these spectacular ruins which have been restored sufficiently to stage a season of Greek drama in the summer. The other attraction is the public gardens which overlook the coastline. We then had time to wander through the rabbit warren of of the quaintest city streets all involving steps which were oh so hard on the joints. Definitely cause for large tubs of gelato.
At 6.00pm our dear coach driver took us further along the coast to a splendid castle restaurant for our farewell dinner.
What an exceptional tour that was!!!! Thank you Globus. I can recommend it to all of you but not, repeat NOT in July or August.
It had obviously rained during the night, but was not raining until we started walking to the bus and then only a light drizzle. It was 7 degrees C. Totally unseasonal. Of course winter is January/ February in these parts but this year it started snowing the week we arrived. I THOUGHT it was cold. As our bus zigged and zagged through the villages up the mountain there were vestiges of snow. Mt Etna is the largest active volcano in Europe. Today there are 4 1/2 active craters. It is an example of a Strombolian volcano as it has a lot of spectacular high explosions . The last very strong 7.3 earthquake was in 2001 that did considerable damage but there was a smaller one just this last Christmas causing far less damage because of newly introduced building regulations. It has lateral craters as well. On the slopes of this wonderfully fertile landscape grow chestnut trees, broom, pink valerian. Our guide was Vanessa who lives in the highest village of Zefferona where saffron grows. Broom is the symbol of Mt Etna. It is also famed for its honey which is offered in a variety of flavors. The Wildlife on the slopes are wild cats and rabbits, foxes and falcons. There are 2 ski resorts which open for seasons of 2 weeks to 2 months.
We stopped driving at 7,000 ft and disembarked for a coffee at an excellent large centre and it was then that we were hit with a bitterly icy blast and quite heavy rain. The coffee was so welcome and greatly enhanced by their very strong liqueur like drinking fire. I loved it.
We then we were driven a little way down for those who were prepared to brave the elements to view one of the lateral craters but I headed straight for the bar to mingle with the crowds of other tourists. By the time I emerged in search of our group members and bus the clouds had come down creating a whiteout. However it was such a very worthwhile trip contrasting dramatically with any other of our travel experience.
We cautiously zigged and zagged our way down through the clouds to our hotel where we quickly found a restaurant which served real Italian minestrone soup. Superb!!!!!
After a short break, we clambered back onto the coach again and set off to Taormina - known as the Sicilian Monte Carlo - in the pouring rain.
It is a beautiful coastal town with a population of 11,000 people and is financed purely by the thousands of tourist who come year round to experience the Greek Theatre built in 3 BC. Miraculously, as we stepped into the city streets the rain stopped, allowing as to enjoy these spectacular ruins which have been restored sufficiently to stage a season of Greek drama in the summer. The other attraction is the public gardens which overlook the coastline. We then had time to wander through the rabbit warren of of the quaintest city streets all involving steps which were oh so hard on the joints. Definitely cause for large tubs of gelato.
At 6.00pm our dear coach driver took us further along the coast to a splendid castle restaurant for our farewell dinner.
What an exceptional tour that was!!!! Thank you Globus. I can recommend it to all of you but not, repeat NOT in July or August.
Saturday 25 May 2019
Sat 25 May - Taormina Riviera
Now that I have had the most thrilling Skype call from granddaughter Jay in Illinois, I can settle to writing up our adventures today starting in Catania, which is on the coast of the Ionian Sea. Archaeologists have found sculptures here dating back to the Bronze Age. Of course Catania is dominated by the live Mt Etna known as Mamma Etna which has an outlet at all times
It is when that outlet is blocked that she gets angry and erupts ( so they say). Catania has a population of 3020 and is an extremely fertile region. We did catch a glimpse of her, but she was shrouded in cloud today. Our big morning tour is tomorrow so hopefully she will reveal more of herself close up.
We were taken to the Piazza del Doumo and let loose for shopping. However I happened upon the cutest little motorised guzzi and made his day by hiring him to putter around Catania CBD
It was gaily bedecked in Sicilian fashion and played such catchy tunes. People were filming us, waving and cheering. It was outrageous fun for 45 mins. We saw more Cathedrals and ruins galore but, really, seen one, seen 'em all now. We just enjoyed causing traffic jams and providing photo opportunities for other tourists.
After yet more food and caffe, we boarded our trusty coach and headed for the hills of Savoca up hairpin Mamma Mia roads. We were greeted there by the staff of the Bar Vitelli with a granita and brioche. This would be delightful on a warmer day, but we're too early to do warm.
We then started on the vertical climb to the church of Santa Lucia, famed for its part of Michael Corleone's wedding in The Godfather.
What a stunning vista from this height, despite the inclement conditions.
We then zig-zagged down to our resort on the Taormina Riviera with its own beachfront. I dragged Peter out onto the beach but really, another 10 degrees would have made it a more pleasant experience.
We realise now that we have made a mistake rushing out of this luxurious accommodation at 4am on Monday to catch one of the only two flights to Malta. We had a choice of a 7am flight or 11.55pm. Do we want to sit in Malta airport from 8.00am till 2pm to wait for our Airbnb to be ready for us, or try to make our way to goodness only knows where at 12.55am? Let's not even think about it.
Now that I have had the most thrilling Skype call from granddaughter Jay in Illinois, I can settle to writing up our adventures today starting in Catania, which is on the coast of the Ionian Sea. Archaeologists have found sculptures here dating back to the Bronze Age. Of course Catania is dominated by the live Mt Etna known as Mamma Etna which has an outlet at all times
It is when that outlet is blocked that she gets angry and erupts ( so they say). Catania has a population of 3020 and is an extremely fertile region. We did catch a glimpse of her, but she was shrouded in cloud today. Our big morning tour is tomorrow so hopefully she will reveal more of herself close up.
We were taken to the Piazza del Doumo and let loose for shopping. However I happened upon the cutest little motorised guzzi and made his day by hiring him to putter around Catania CBD
It was gaily bedecked in Sicilian fashion and played such catchy tunes. People were filming us, waving and cheering. It was outrageous fun for 45 mins. We saw more Cathedrals and ruins galore but, really, seen one, seen 'em all now. We just enjoyed causing traffic jams and providing photo opportunities for other tourists.
After yet more food and caffe, we boarded our trusty coach and headed for the hills of Savoca up hairpin Mamma Mia roads. We were greeted there by the staff of the Bar Vitelli with a granita and brioche. This would be delightful on a warmer day, but we're too early to do warm.
We then started on the vertical climb to the church of Santa Lucia, famed for its part of Michael Corleone's wedding in The Godfather.
What a stunning vista from this height, despite the inclement conditions.
We then zig-zagged down to our resort on the Taormina Riviera with its own beachfront. I dragged Peter out onto the beach but really, another 10 degrees would have made it a more pleasant experience.
We realise now that we have made a mistake rushing out of this luxurious accommodation at 4am on Monday to catch one of the only two flights to Malta. We had a choice of a 7am flight or 11.55pm. Do we want to sit in Malta airport from 8.00am till 2pm to wait for our Airbnb to be ready for us, or try to make our way to goodness only knows where at 12.55am? Let's not even think about it.
Friday 24 May 2019
Friday 24 May - Syracuse
I am running a bit behind with my diary entries.I'll cat h up on the remainder of yesterday when we were taken to Modica, renowned for making a unique chocolate without butter or milk. Curious. We watched the process in Sicily's oldest factory, the Dolceria Bonajuto. I was astonished that I liked the couple of samples that I had, only to find out they weren't chocolate at all, but nougat which they also make. Nobody told me.
We had half an hour to fill in before another Siciluan dinner so Peter and I sauntered down the medieval street into a sportswear shop. Peter was approached by a charming Sicilian lass who talked him into buying an elegant suade jacket and matching scarf. Definitely worth a photo shoot with the very smart salesgirl and her sister. By the time he'd had two glasses of vino before dinner he was just the happiest chappy.
I am running a bit behind with my diary entries.I'll cat h up on the remainder of yesterday when we were taken to Modica, renowned for making a unique chocolate without butter or milk. Curious. We watched the process in Sicily's oldest factory, the Dolceria Bonajuto. I was astonished that I liked the couple of samples that I had, only to find out they weren't chocolate at all, but nougat which they also make. Nobody told me.
We had half an hour to fill in before another Siciluan dinner so Peter and I sauntered down the medieval street into a sportswear shop. Peter was approached by a charming Sicilian lass who talked him into buying an elegant suade jacket and matching scarf. Definitely worth a photo shoot with the very smart salesgirl and her sister. By the time he'd had two glasses of vino before dinner he was just the happiest chappy.
This morning dawned bright and clear and off we drove to Noto, yet another beautiful historic centre rebuilt in the early 18th century after the devastating 1693 earthquake. Our guide was one of Sicily's most famous named SLvatore. Oh how it suited him. He is doing three tours with us today morning in Noto, afternoon in the archaeological site of Syracuse and this evening in Ortigia Island housing the Apollo temple, the oldest Doric Temple in Sicily. This to be followed by yet another pizza feast. I'll have to stop here to change for the evening.
Thursday 23 May 2019
Thurs 23 May - Ragusa
We're only half way through today but I must share Ragusa with you. This city suffered a massive earthquake in 1693 which wiped out half its population. It has been rebuilt in Baroque style and consists of two cities, Upper and Lower Ragusa built on two mountains. It is upper Ragusa Ibla which is the UNESCO world Heritage site . Ragusa is a very wealthy area with a population of 73,000. It derives its income from Agricilture and tourism. It has its own University
and becomes a movie set every spring for the filming of a popular detective series (which I gave not heard of).
Our local guide Barbara introduced us to the beautiful Giardini Iblei gardens from which we could clearly see the two cities with the wide valley in between where the main dividing river runs. The impressive driveway is lined with imposing palms trees brought over from Africa.
In Ragusa they breed unique red cows which produce the milk from which locals make the famed Formaggi Siciliani cheeses. Also the best wine in all of Italy, Docg is made in Ragusa. Much to my delight they offer gluten free pizzas (for 2 euros extra) so I was able to experience my first Sicilian fruit pizza with a glass of local Chardonnay. However, we did not succumb to the Canola Ragusa. We are still recovering from our Gelato Supremo from Caltagirone yesterday.
Perhaps the highlight for us was the documentary film shown at a theatre which took us through the charm of the Ragusa area, through intense and spectacular images. It was a 30min film making us far more aware of the history and cultural importance of the area.
My tour of this magnificent city ended in spectacular fashion with the arrival of a large, multi-legged flying insect which arrived down my v-necked T shirt to settle inside my bra at the bottom. Nothing for it but to hold the bus while I rushed off to a nearby bagnio in order to strip off and release the monster. Very entertaining for my fellow travellers. Fortunately said flying beast did not bite.
We're only half way through today but I must share Ragusa with you. This city suffered a massive earthquake in 1693 which wiped out half its population. It has been rebuilt in Baroque style and consists of two cities, Upper and Lower Ragusa built on two mountains. It is upper Ragusa Ibla which is the UNESCO world Heritage site . Ragusa is a very wealthy area with a population of 73,000. It derives its income from Agricilture and tourism. It has its own University
and becomes a movie set every spring for the filming of a popular detective series (which I gave not heard of).
Our local guide Barbara introduced us to the beautiful Giardini Iblei gardens from which we could clearly see the two cities with the wide valley in between where the main dividing river runs. The impressive driveway is lined with imposing palms trees brought over from Africa.
In Ragusa they breed unique red cows which produce the milk from which locals make the famed Formaggi Siciliani cheeses. Also the best wine in all of Italy, Docg is made in Ragusa. Much to my delight they offer gluten free pizzas (for 2 euros extra) so I was able to experience my first Sicilian fruit pizza with a glass of local Chardonnay. However, we did not succumb to the Canola Ragusa. We are still recovering from our Gelato Supremo from Caltagirone yesterday.
Perhaps the highlight for us was the documentary film shown at a theatre which took us through the charm of the Ragusa area, through intense and spectacular images. It was a 30min film making us far more aware of the history and cultural importance of the area.
My tour of this magnificent city ended in spectacular fashion with the arrival of a large, multi-legged flying insect which arrived down my v-necked T shirt to settle inside my bra at the bottom. Nothing for it but to hold the bus while I rushed off to a nearby bagnio in order to strip off and release the monster. Very entertaining for my fellow travellers. Fortunately said flying beast did not bite.
Wednesday 22 May 2019
Wed 22 May - Ragusa
Before we get to today, I must tell you about our dreadful accommodation in Agrigento. It was all show and no go. Definitely a case of all that glitters is not gold. We first encountered its deficiencies when we got to our room. It was totally prohibitive to a night's sleep. Others of our group had worse tales to tell with rooms that had no windows or ventilation of any sort. All the beds were far worse than imaginable. One wing smelt of sewage and the showers were too small for more than a foot wash. Globus will definitely be hearing about this misery.
We were so relieved to get out of this beautiful looking place, say Andiamo (let's go) and do the 2 hour drive to Piazza Armerina to visit another UNESCO site, Villa Romana Del Casale. To reach this we drove through vast areas of olives, oranges and grapes which were covered by netting - whole hillsides of netting. The motorway went up 3,000ft above sea level to the highest city of the Apernine range.
Here we disembarked from the coach to meet our new local guide who took us through a vast Roman hunting lodge thought to be built in the 4th century AD and lived in until it was buried in a mudslide in the 12th century. It was discovered in 1950 and is being restored. The remarkable feature of the huge villa is the use of mosaics on all the flooring. Each area has a theme and the floor is decorated with appropriate mosaics, the most famous of which are the "bikini girls" in the women's gymnasium. We were spellbound for a couple of hours while our guide told us the history and culture of the times. Although I am concerned over the cost of this trip, I can see the value of the experienced commentary. So many tourists were just trotting around having no idea of what they were looking at.
After lunch we were bussed to Caltagirone which means the City of Jars, another UNESCO site famous for its ceramics. The building feature is the Staircase of Santa Maria Del Monte which boasts 146 steps, each face with a contrasting design leading from the piazza straight up to the magnificent cathedral -- which I can tell you nothing about because Peter and I preferred to sit in an equally magnificent ristorante at the bottom and indulge in a decadent gelato fantasy. We were delighted to be driven around the historic city in an open-sided train with 8 little carriages each seating 6 people. Such outrageous fun.
From there it was a short coach trip to Ragusa where we are staying for 2 nights. The conditions are far superior and we fully expect to enjoy our nights' sleep. The dinner was infinitely better.
Before we get to today, I must tell you about our dreadful accommodation in Agrigento. It was all show and no go. Definitely a case of all that glitters is not gold. We first encountered its deficiencies when we got to our room. It was totally prohibitive to a night's sleep. Others of our group had worse tales to tell with rooms that had no windows or ventilation of any sort. All the beds were far worse than imaginable. One wing smelt of sewage and the showers were too small for more than a foot wash. Globus will definitely be hearing about this misery.
We were so relieved to get out of this beautiful looking place, say Andiamo (let's go) and do the 2 hour drive to Piazza Armerina to visit another UNESCO site, Villa Romana Del Casale. To reach this we drove through vast areas of olives, oranges and grapes which were covered by netting - whole hillsides of netting. The motorway went up 3,000ft above sea level to the highest city of the Apernine range.
Here we disembarked from the coach to meet our new local guide who took us through a vast Roman hunting lodge thought to be built in the 4th century AD and lived in until it was buried in a mudslide in the 12th century. It was discovered in 1950 and is being restored. The remarkable feature of the huge villa is the use of mosaics on all the flooring. Each area has a theme and the floor is decorated with appropriate mosaics, the most famous of which are the "bikini girls" in the women's gymnasium. We were spellbound for a couple of hours while our guide told us the history and culture of the times. Although I am concerned over the cost of this trip, I can see the value of the experienced commentary. So many tourists were just trotting around having no idea of what they were looking at.
After lunch we were bussed to Caltagirone which means the City of Jars, another UNESCO site famous for its ceramics. The building feature is the Staircase of Santa Maria Del Monte which boasts 146 steps, each face with a contrasting design leading from the piazza straight up to the magnificent cathedral -- which I can tell you nothing about because Peter and I preferred to sit in an equally magnificent ristorante at the bottom and indulge in a decadent gelato fantasy. We were delighted to be driven around the historic city in an open-sided train with 8 little carriages each seating 6 people. Such outrageous fun.
From there it was a short coach trip to Ragusa where we are staying for 2 nights. The conditions are far superior and we fully expect to enjoy our nights' sleep. The dinner was infinitely better.
Tuesday 21 May 2019
Tues 21 May - Agrigento
We thoroughly appreciated our later departure from our luxury resort. I suspect that will be the pick of it for our whole tour. Good while it lasted.
The drive through to Sciacca (Shukker) treated us to countryside producing grapes, oranges and olives the like of which I have never experienced. I quite like olives in NZ but they pale into insignificance compared with real Sicilian olives, as do tomatoes. Italian wine differs from the French in that it has no added sugar. The sweetness comes from the sun. The Sciacca population is 51,000 and is famed for its springs to which people come for therapeutic treatment. There is a very high immigration population here. Today is the first that has indicated the famed Mediterranean warmth. Not hot at all but no puffer jacket required. We had a delightful couple of hours wandering the picturesque town and sampling cappuccino and ricotta delicacies. Live, laugh and forget the kilos. We found a museum (well, Peter did) and admired a well preserved Sicillian homestead of a wealthy family.
On we drove to the UNESCO site of Agrigento famed for its Valley of the temples. 27 years ago I was lucky enough to visit the Acropolis with my friends Glen and Laurie. Agrigento has the Temple of Concordia which dates from the 5th century BC and is in better repair. I am sure that this would look more spectacular with the flood lights which are set up. We had dazzling sunlight instead. Our guide Claudio was a splendid Sicilian man born in these parts who gave us such a detailed historical background punctuated by his dry sense of humour. Any time he stopped talking he burst into song. He was a comprehensive entertainment on his own quite apart from the awe-inspiring surroundings. It is miraculous that these gigantic yet graceful structures have survived 24 centuries of tormented history. Some of our travel group of 39 people (mainly Americans) have done Italy and Sicily before but have returned purely for today's spectacle. Once again Josephine for telling us we just HAD to come on this particular Globus tour. You're right. I'll pass your advice on to other friends.
Then we came to the Agrigento goats. What splendid beasts they are with their long shaggy coats and their unique huge horns shaped like corkscrews.
Our accommodation tonight is a poor relation to last night's, but hey, you can't have it all. Perhaps the food will be good.
We thoroughly appreciated our later departure from our luxury resort. I suspect that will be the pick of it for our whole tour. Good while it lasted.
The drive through to Sciacca (Shukker) treated us to countryside producing grapes, oranges and olives the like of which I have never experienced. I quite like olives in NZ but they pale into insignificance compared with real Sicilian olives, as do tomatoes. Italian wine differs from the French in that it has no added sugar. The sweetness comes from the sun. The Sciacca population is 51,000 and is famed for its springs to which people come for therapeutic treatment. There is a very high immigration population here. Today is the first that has indicated the famed Mediterranean warmth. Not hot at all but no puffer jacket required. We had a delightful couple of hours wandering the picturesque town and sampling cappuccino and ricotta delicacies. Live, laugh and forget the kilos. We found a museum (well, Peter did) and admired a well preserved Sicillian homestead of a wealthy family.
On we drove to the UNESCO site of Agrigento famed for its Valley of the temples. 27 years ago I was lucky enough to visit the Acropolis with my friends Glen and Laurie. Agrigento has the Temple of Concordia which dates from the 5th century BC and is in better repair. I am sure that this would look more spectacular with the flood lights which are set up. We had dazzling sunlight instead. Our guide Claudio was a splendid Sicilian man born in these parts who gave us such a detailed historical background punctuated by his dry sense of humour. Any time he stopped talking he burst into song. He was a comprehensive entertainment on his own quite apart from the awe-inspiring surroundings. It is miraculous that these gigantic yet graceful structures have survived 24 centuries of tormented history. Some of our travel group of 39 people (mainly Americans) have done Italy and Sicily before but have returned purely for today's spectacle. Once again Josephine for telling us we just HAD to come on this particular Globus tour. You're right. I'll pass your advice on to other friends.
Then we came to the Agrigento goats. What splendid beasts they are with their long shaggy coats and their unique huge horns shaped like corkscrews.
Our accommodation tonight is a poor relation to last night's, but hey, you can't have it all. Perhaps the food will be good.
Monday 20 May 2019
Monday 20 May - Marsala
First, you need to know that when we turned up 30 mins before the puppet show last night, we were greeted by a sign which Google translated to Next show 2 June. So, once again we had no choice but to order a vino rosso ( or 2) and a pizza and a risotto, and sit and watch the crowds of Sicilians strutting their stuff along the main street which had been cordoned off for the purpose. All the human puppets were even more fascinating than any manufactured doll.
This morning bags needed to be outside the door before 7am and travellers breakfasted and ready to board our coach by 8am.
Away we rolled on the motorway through Capaci where there are two magnificent monuments to Judges Falcone and Borsoline who were assassinated by the Mafia on 23 May 1992. Falcone is going through the deification process to become another patron saint of Sicily.
We wound our way slowly through Mamma Mia roads up 2,100ft to the hilltop town of Erice - such a pretty little oh- so-Sicilian town built into the hillside. The gastronomic feature there was the Pasticceria Maria Grammatico where we were served with a platter of traditional almond biscuits (all of which I could eat) and a glass of Marsala wine washed down by a cappuccino. We continued our climb by foot to view the 5th century Norman castle which looked so Peter Jackson in the swirling mists.
After a breath-stopping descent in our coach we went on to view one of the traditional salt mills and learn the specialist process of making salt.
I shall never take our salt for granted again. A small flat-bottomed ferry took us to an island where there is a vast collection of findings from the Phonoecian period, the most treasured of which is a more-than-life-sized marble statue of a charioteer estimated to be dated 5BC. So much of the stuff was in perfect condition.
We had 1 1/2hours to explore the island before the boat trip back to our coach for a 2 hour drive to our luxurious Giardino Di Costanza Resort. Oh my!!!! We have adapted to this very quickly.
As I said in yesterday's blog, my email and Facebook are malfunctioning, so you are better to use mgcaisley@gmail.com for any catch-up on the home news. I seem to be able to get single photos on to fb by going through Instagram. Go figure. Peter is having no trouble at all and is tagging his photos hoping that my friends will get them. All very curious.
First, you need to know that when we turned up 30 mins before the puppet show last night, we were greeted by a sign which Google translated to Next show 2 June. So, once again we had no choice but to order a vino rosso ( or 2) and a pizza and a risotto, and sit and watch the crowds of Sicilians strutting their stuff along the main street which had been cordoned off for the purpose. All the human puppets were even more fascinating than any manufactured doll.
This morning bags needed to be outside the door before 7am and travellers breakfasted and ready to board our coach by 8am.
Away we rolled on the motorway through Capaci where there are two magnificent monuments to Judges Falcone and Borsoline who were assassinated by the Mafia on 23 May 1992. Falcone is going through the deification process to become another patron saint of Sicily.
We wound our way slowly through Mamma Mia roads up 2,100ft to the hilltop town of Erice - such a pretty little oh- so-Sicilian town built into the hillside. The gastronomic feature there was the Pasticceria Maria Grammatico where we were served with a platter of traditional almond biscuits (all of which I could eat) and a glass of Marsala wine washed down by a cappuccino. We continued our climb by foot to view the 5th century Norman castle which looked so Peter Jackson in the swirling mists.
After a breath-stopping descent in our coach we went on to view one of the traditional salt mills and learn the specialist process of making salt.
I shall never take our salt for granted again. A small flat-bottomed ferry took us to an island where there is a vast collection of findings from the Phonoecian period, the most treasured of which is a more-than-life-sized marble statue of a charioteer estimated to be dated 5BC. So much of the stuff was in perfect condition.
We had 1 1/2hours to explore the island before the boat trip back to our coach for a 2 hour drive to our luxurious Giardino Di Costanza Resort. Oh my!!!! We have adapted to this very quickly.
As I said in yesterday's blog, my email and Facebook are malfunctioning, so you are better to use mgcaisley@gmail.com for any catch-up on the home news. I seem to be able to get single photos on to fb by going through Instagram. Go figure. Peter is having no trouble at all and is tagging his photos hoping that my friends will get them. All very curious.
Sunday 19 May 2019
Sunday 19 May - Palermo
It was exciting to meet with our group and guide last night. This morning we were relieved to be able to board our coach and start to soak up the wonderful commentary provided by one of the Sicilian women involved in over-throwing the power of the Mafia gang. She is such a highly educated woman.
First we drove to Monreale to visit the 12th century Norman Cathedral famous for its 15240 square meters of precious byzantine mosaics. The organ is the largest in Europe with its 1080 pipes. May is the popular month for Sicilian children to take their first communion so we were fortunate enough to witness proud families arriving with their youngsters dressed all in white. We had to leave before the service started but then we drove back into the capital with its population of 1 million to the magnificent Cathedral which allowed tourists into the spectacular communion service with its up-lifting choral tributes. It was packed with adoring families gathered together for this festive occasion for which the dress code was straight from Milan.
It was so interesting to be driven around the inner City CBD which we had visited, but this time with the accompanying commentary. And that is why we pay thousands more dollars to understand the countries we have chosen to visit. So rewarding.
We gathered in the baroque Church of Immacolata where our guide felt safe revealing the part she is playing in the struggle to crack the Mafia. Particularly interesting to me Josephine after completing the literature you recommended. Thank you.
By then we were back in the Capo Market which we found so challenging on our first day in this country. After wandering through a little of it we gathered at tables set aside for us to experience authentic Sicillian specialties such as panelle, arancini and cannoli, all washed down with red and white wine of course. A splendid Sunday lunch.
The rest of the group is being taken to a banquet in a Royal household tonight, but we opted out and went instead for a tour of the Teatro Massimo, the Opera House we have walked past so often but not been inside. Tonight we are still hoping to experience the Puppet Theatre.
I am so very sorry that my Facebook photos are not reaching you. I have put a couple on Instagram and Peter is tagging some of my friends on his fb entries which are in perfect working order. I must have pushed something as I am neither sending or receiving emails. Gmail is all I can use. Only a techie geek would be able to retrieve the access for me.
It was exciting to meet with our group and guide last night. This morning we were relieved to be able to board our coach and start to soak up the wonderful commentary provided by one of the Sicilian women involved in over-throwing the power of the Mafia gang. She is such a highly educated woman.
First we drove to Monreale to visit the 12th century Norman Cathedral famous for its 15240 square meters of precious byzantine mosaics. The organ is the largest in Europe with its 1080 pipes. May is the popular month for Sicilian children to take their first communion so we were fortunate enough to witness proud families arriving with their youngsters dressed all in white. We had to leave before the service started but then we drove back into the capital with its population of 1 million to the magnificent Cathedral which allowed tourists into the spectacular communion service with its up-lifting choral tributes. It was packed with adoring families gathered together for this festive occasion for which the dress code was straight from Milan.
It was so interesting to be driven around the inner City CBD which we had visited, but this time with the accompanying commentary. And that is why we pay thousands more dollars to understand the countries we have chosen to visit. So rewarding.
We gathered in the baroque Church of Immacolata where our guide felt safe revealing the part she is playing in the struggle to crack the Mafia. Particularly interesting to me Josephine after completing the literature you recommended. Thank you.
By then we were back in the Capo Market which we found so challenging on our first day in this country. After wandering through a little of it we gathered at tables set aside for us to experience authentic Sicillian specialties such as panelle, arancini and cannoli, all washed down with red and white wine of course. A splendid Sunday lunch.
The rest of the group is being taken to a banquet in a Royal household tonight, but we opted out and went instead for a tour of the Teatro Massimo, the Opera House we have walked past so often but not been inside. Tonight we are still hoping to experience the Puppet Theatre.
I am so very sorry that my Facebook photos are not reaching you. I have put a couple on Instagram and Peter is tagging some of my friends on his fb entries which are in perfect working order. I must have pushed something as I am neither sending or receiving emails. Gmail is all I can use. Only a techie geek would be able to retrieve the access for me.
Saturday 18 May 2019
Saturday afternoon 18 May Palermo
I thought I'd write up today's adventures now that we've returned to prepare for our Globus meet-and-greet dinner this evening. We managed to locate the Antonio Pasqualino International Puppet Museum which is on the other side of town from the closed theatre we discovered yesterday. Palermo is a rabbit warren of un-sign-posted narrow alleyways, so the fact that we have located anything is astonishing. But this Museum did have a sign that I happened to spot in the distance and it was going to open at 10.00am. As the clock struck, the curator turned up and let us in. Not another soul was around at that very early hour so we had this whole collection to ourselves - 4,000 of them. What an extraordinary experience. The Museum was founded in 1975 and houses puppets from Greece, Africa, New Hebrides, Vietnam, China, Japan, India , Bali, Java as well as throughout Italy. I do so hope we can manage to get to a show at the Theatre tomorrow evening.
The Botanic Gardens lay a few blocks away and en route we happened into a ristorante which turned out to be the local TAB. THAT was an experience in itself but I managed to acquire some drinkable caffeine lattes. We were so very out of place but they took our money.
The Gardens were peaceful but such a poor comparison of what we regard as normal. So many statues but most were desecrated to some degree. There was a woeful lack of maintenance as there is throughout the town.
By then it was lunchtime so I cobbled together enough of my fridge Italian to get a copious salad with their signature tomatoes. Somehow I got a toasted ham roll as well. I wonder what words resulted in that. Never mind, all up it was only 8 Euros together with a bottle of sparkling water and 6 little bread rolls.
Our next challenge was to get back to our hotel via the railway station. YES!!! We're getting it together now just as we join the tour and don't have to think again for a week.
Time for a recuperative snooze before we have to get glammed up for our introductory dinner.
I thought I'd write up today's adventures now that we've returned to prepare for our Globus meet-and-greet dinner this evening. We managed to locate the Antonio Pasqualino International Puppet Museum which is on the other side of town from the closed theatre we discovered yesterday. Palermo is a rabbit warren of un-sign-posted narrow alleyways, so the fact that we have located anything is astonishing. But this Museum did have a sign that I happened to spot in the distance and it was going to open at 10.00am. As the clock struck, the curator turned up and let us in. Not another soul was around at that very early hour so we had this whole collection to ourselves - 4,000 of them. What an extraordinary experience. The Museum was founded in 1975 and houses puppets from Greece, Africa, New Hebrides, Vietnam, China, Japan, India , Bali, Java as well as throughout Italy. I do so hope we can manage to get to a show at the Theatre tomorrow evening.
The Botanic Gardens lay a few blocks away and en route we happened into a ristorante which turned out to be the local TAB. THAT was an experience in itself but I managed to acquire some drinkable caffeine lattes. We were so very out of place but they took our money.
The Gardens were peaceful but such a poor comparison of what we regard as normal. So many statues but most were desecrated to some degree. There was a woeful lack of maintenance as there is throughout the town.
By then it was lunchtime so I cobbled together enough of my fridge Italian to get a copious salad with their signature tomatoes. Somehow I got a toasted ham roll as well. I wonder what words resulted in that. Never mind, all up it was only 8 Euros together with a bottle of sparkling water and 6 little bread rolls.
Our next challenge was to get back to our hotel via the railway station. YES!!! We're getting it together now just as we join the tour and don't have to think again for a week.
Time for a recuperative snooze before we have to get glammed up for our introductory dinner.
Saturday 18 May - Palermo
Friday was the day that we were resolved to locate the tourist information centre and discover all the attractions this cold wet city had to offer. We had found the signs pointing to it but no centre was to be seen. There is no concierge service at our up-market hotel, so we wandered from person to person asking for directions , followed them and got to nothing. Ah, a polizia! He'll know. Yes, walk back to where we'd come from, past 2 lots of traffic lights and turn left. Grazia. By then we were nearing half our daily 10,000 step recommendation. What we were seeking was the Hop-on hop-off bus station. We could see the buses but no stops. Eventually I spotted an i-sign on a little wooden booth on the kerbsite. And that turned out to be it. A little man sat in a little sentry box with his window shut. We knocked on the window which he slid open reluctantly. Parla inglese? He looked doubtful so I showed him the bus brochure which he looked at and pointed over the road. No sign of any other printed material and of course I didn't know what else to ask for. We have no idea how lucky we are in NZ. No signage at the bus stop, so having nothing better to do, we stood there. Very eventually a bus arrived and we hopped on. By then the skies had cleared and we saw Palermo in its historic splendour. The English commentary worked intermittently and was punctuated by Verdi. Extremely pleasant. The passengers in the front disembarked and we did the circuit again travelling first class.
We have now found a lunch provider comparable to our Tank which serves real NZ style coffee so we returned there before doing the blue-line bus route which was not as interesting but meant we have covered the city.
So completed the circuit, discovered a couple who live in Milford, caught up with their travel, had a proper gelato each and came back to the hotel. It was nap time for Peter and serious shopping for me to find a little Italian leather coat which I'm told will be much cheaper in Sicily than Italy. I can believe that. Sicily's funds are obviously siphoned off elsewhere.
After laboriously entering every clothing shop and trying on every possible garment I wore myself out and returned to my hotel. There on the corner was an un-visited shop which housed my little red leather Italian jacket, not even made in China like everything else. Very happily I bought that and the extra jumper the gorgeous shop assistant assured me was perfecto and walked into our hotel.
I had been searching for the Sicilian Puppet theatre which we eventually stumbled across, but which only played at weekends, and Peter had been searching for the Sicilian equivalent of our MOTAT which only opens weekdays. Nothing for it but to wander the main street, watching the passing parade of elegantly dressed Sicilians while sipping vino rossa.
Let's see what we can find today before joining our Globus tour tonight for a formal dinner to which I can wear my newly acquired black jumper bedecked with red sequins.
Friday was the day that we were resolved to locate the tourist information centre and discover all the attractions this cold wet city had to offer. We had found the signs pointing to it but no centre was to be seen. There is no concierge service at our up-market hotel, so we wandered from person to person asking for directions , followed them and got to nothing. Ah, a polizia! He'll know. Yes, walk back to where we'd come from, past 2 lots of traffic lights and turn left. Grazia. By then we were nearing half our daily 10,000 step recommendation. What we were seeking was the Hop-on hop-off bus station. We could see the buses but no stops. Eventually I spotted an i-sign on a little wooden booth on the kerbsite. And that turned out to be it. A little man sat in a little sentry box with his window shut. We knocked on the window which he slid open reluctantly. Parla inglese? He looked doubtful so I showed him the bus brochure which he looked at and pointed over the road. No sign of any other printed material and of course I didn't know what else to ask for. We have no idea how lucky we are in NZ. No signage at the bus stop, so having nothing better to do, we stood there. Very eventually a bus arrived and we hopped on. By then the skies had cleared and we saw Palermo in its historic splendour. The English commentary worked intermittently and was punctuated by Verdi. Extremely pleasant. The passengers in the front disembarked and we did the circuit again travelling first class.
We have now found a lunch provider comparable to our Tank which serves real NZ style coffee so we returned there before doing the blue-line bus route which was not as interesting but meant we have covered the city.
So completed the circuit, discovered a couple who live in Milford, caught up with their travel, had a proper gelato each and came back to the hotel. It was nap time for Peter and serious shopping for me to find a little Italian leather coat which I'm told will be much cheaper in Sicily than Italy. I can believe that. Sicily's funds are obviously siphoned off elsewhere.
After laboriously entering every clothing shop and trying on every possible garment I wore myself out and returned to my hotel. There on the corner was an un-visited shop which housed my little red leather Italian jacket, not even made in China like everything else. Very happily I bought that and the extra jumper the gorgeous shop assistant assured me was perfecto and walked into our hotel.
I had been searching for the Sicilian Puppet theatre which we eventually stumbled across, but which only played at weekends, and Peter had been searching for the Sicilian equivalent of our MOTAT which only opens weekdays. Nothing for it but to wander the main street, watching the passing parade of elegantly dressed Sicilians while sipping vino rossa.
Let's see what we can find today before joining our Globus tour tonight for a formal dinner to which I can wear my newly acquired black jumper bedecked with red sequins.
Thursday 16 May 2019
Thursday 16th - Palermo
After settling into our hotel Frederico II we decided to go for a reconnaissance walk around the block, have a pizza lunch and return at 3.30pm for a nap before going out to a restaurant for our evening meal. Jolly good idea! We woke nicely refreshed - at 2.30am! It was pouring with rain accompanied by thunder and lightning. After some unpacking and sorting we went back to sleep until 8am. Still very cold, but the rain had stopped. Breakfast in the hotel was reasonably successful and off we set with umbrellas and raincoats and jumpers to find the markets and a Church Josephine had recommended. We walked and walked the sodden streets, and suddenly were in Il Capo, Palermo's historic market and all its colorful theatre. VERY entertaining. Italian men in full voice. I bought 1 banana.
After a recuperative caffe, we tackled the hunt for the Chiesa dell'Immacolata Concezione. It very nearly beat us, but by showing a succession of very expressive Italians the photo in our brochure, I found a young woman who could speak enough English to show us we had walked past the doorway 3 times. Ok. In we went, very relieved to be able to sit down and admire the famed Italian artwork. The rest restored our relationship and out we went into some very welcome sunshine into the street we should have walked from the outset. And there were the shops!!!! So if we had turned left instead of right, life would have been much simpler. We'll know that for tomorrow. Fortunately we're here for 5 days before we join our Globus tour so we'll have mastered it by then
After settling into our hotel Frederico II we decided to go for a reconnaissance walk around the block, have a pizza lunch and return at 3.30pm for a nap before going out to a restaurant for our evening meal. Jolly good idea! We woke nicely refreshed - at 2.30am! It was pouring with rain accompanied by thunder and lightning. After some unpacking and sorting we went back to sleep until 8am. Still very cold, but the rain had stopped. Breakfast in the hotel was reasonably successful and off we set with umbrellas and raincoats and jumpers to find the markets and a Church Josephine had recommended. We walked and walked the sodden streets, and suddenly were in Il Capo, Palermo's historic market and all its colorful theatre. VERY entertaining. Italian men in full voice. I bought 1 banana.
After a recuperative caffe, we tackled the hunt for the Chiesa dell'Immacolata Concezione. It very nearly beat us, but by showing a succession of very expressive Italians the photo in our brochure, I found a young woman who could speak enough English to show us we had walked past the doorway 3 times. Ok. In we went, very relieved to be able to sit down and admire the famed Italian artwork. The rest restored our relationship and out we went into some very welcome sunshine into the street we should have walked from the outset. And there were the shops!!!! So if we had turned left instead of right, life would have been much simpler. We'll know that for tomorrow. Fortunately we're here for 5 days before we join our Globus tour so we'll have mastered it by then
Wednesday 15 May 2019
Wednesday 15 May Rome
13 hours later, we have arrived at Rome Airport. Actually, we arrived in Hong Kong 1 hour early, so our plane was supposed to leave 4 hours later, but it was delayed an hour so we had a 5 hour layover
. Hurrah for the business lounge where we could lie down in relative comfort. Then the 14 hour flight which left at 1.30am. Now we have succeeded in getting ourselves to the wrong terminal and ordering cafe latte which is woefully tepid instead of caffe caldo which is hot but black. However my 4 pages of Italian on the fridge door have saved me from a tirade of abuse from the Italian gentleman who tore an Aussie woman to shreds for ordering in Strine. So I plunged into my best rehearsed fridge Italian which sent him into paroxysms of praise. Peter has realised that he is entirely at my mercy except for the Malta reprieve. He has learned Grazie though which will stand him on good stead. Thanks for the entrata and uschita tip off Mark. We hit it as soon as we landed and wouldn't have known whether we were coming or going. It is very cold and wet today. Let's see if Palermo can do better.
13 hours later, we have arrived at Rome Airport. Actually, we arrived in Hong Kong 1 hour early, so our plane was supposed to leave 4 hours later, but it was delayed an hour so we had a 5 hour layover
. Hurrah for the business lounge where we could lie down in relative comfort. Then the 14 hour flight which left at 1.30am. Now we have succeeded in getting ourselves to the wrong terminal and ordering cafe latte which is woefully tepid instead of caffe caldo which is hot but black. However my 4 pages of Italian on the fridge door have saved me from a tirade of abuse from the Italian gentleman who tore an Aussie woman to shreds for ordering in Strine. So I plunged into my best rehearsed fridge Italian which sent him into paroxysms of praise. Peter has realised that he is entirely at my mercy except for the Malta reprieve. He has learned Grazie though which will stand him on good stead. Thanks for the entrata and uschita tip off Mark. We hit it as soon as we landed and wouldn't have known whether we were coming or going. It is very cold and wet today. Let's see if Palermo can do better.
Tuesday 14 May 2019
Tuesday 14th May Hong Kong
We are now reclining in the luxurious Cathay Pacific Lounge in Hong Kong after a superb flight of 10 instead of 11 hours. Nice though it is to have clipped an hour off the flight time, it just means a 4 hour wait for the flight to Rome rather than the scheduled 3 hours. I am certainly not tempted to go airport shopping to acquire Hong Kong junk to up my baggage weight. Business Class with this airline has surpassed our experiences last year with Air NZ and Lufthansa. VERY COMFORTABLE. Not that either of us slept but that was more because of the 1.15pm departure. We'll see what happens for the next leg which is 13 hours. Peter had a flight attendant who fell for him big time. Even brought him bowls of salted caramel popcorn . He had this experience in Shanghai when all the young girls mistook him for Kenny Gee and queued to get their photos with him. He did not reveal his true identity, I noticed.
We are now reclining in the luxurious Cathay Pacific Lounge in Hong Kong after a superb flight of 10 instead of 11 hours. Nice though it is to have clipped an hour off the flight time, it just means a 4 hour wait for the flight to Rome rather than the scheduled 3 hours. I am certainly not tempted to go airport shopping to acquire Hong Kong junk to up my baggage weight. Business Class with this airline has surpassed our experiences last year with Air NZ and Lufthansa. VERY COMFORTABLE. Not that either of us slept but that was more because of the 1.15pm departure. We'll see what happens for the next leg which is 13 hours. Peter had a flight attendant who fell for him big time. Even brought him bowls of salted caramel popcorn . He had this experience in Shanghai when all the young girls mistook him for Kenny Gee and queued to get their photos with him. He did not reveal his true identity, I noticed.
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