Tuesday 18th June - Rome
Today we needed to discover the rest of the wonders of Rome so that when you say "Did you see.....?" We could answer nonchalantly "Of course " This definitely required two circuits on the trusty hop-on-hop-off bus. We managed front seats upstairs in a canopied bus the first circuit so had a regally chauffeured drive around the Eternal City. Also we could hear the commentary and it was in English so we were really on a roll. The 1 1/2 hour circuit gave us an excellent overview, and of course we had also done an in-depth explore of some of the wonders.
That necessitated lunch which we had in the beautiful train station where I discovered yet another wonder, the Baba cake. My goodness, I wish I hadn't left that till the last day.
Sufficiently re-fuelled, we sallied forth again, targeting the wonders we had not examined close-up. The Pantheon was first on our hit list.
That was built between 27 and 25BC and dedicated to all gods of pagan Rome. In 608AD it became a Christian church. It had a mystical aura about it and once again I was offended by the narcissistic obsession with photography before such spiritual works of art. One section of it was cordoned off for people who wanted to sit in peace while all around were the masses who were only interested in how they looked with this wallpaper behind them.
We then walked on to discover the Fontana di Trevi which is certainly the most beautiful fountain in Rome (if not the world) and was built in 1762 in the Baroque style. I was astonished that it was sandwiched between a plethora of shops and ristorantes in the square which serves as a theatre. The central statue of Neptune is flanked by magnificent side statues symbolizing the abundance and health that water has always given to Rome. There are water fountains throughout the city so that pedestrians (and their dogs) have access to water 24/7.
We stayed on in that area so that Peter could rest with a pina colada and crepe and I could enjoy the fountain longer on my own, and then do my last bit of shopping.
Our last must-see was the Spanish Steps in the Piazza di Spagna built in 1629. There were crowds of people there, the armed military and police so obviously something was being planned . We thought that could be our exit point so we completed 13,000 steps back onto the next bus. We have been averaging that number per day but I don't think they will compensate for the Roman diet that we have been enjoying.
So tomorrow we will be picked up with our 2 suitcases each and driven to the airport ready for our 38 hours of travel through Hong Kong back to Auckland's winter. And that is the downside of going away. It has been a superb trip - our teenage OE that we missed out on really.
Arrivedercci Roma.
Tuesday 18 June 2019
Monday 17 June 2019
Monday 17 June - Rome
I was extremely displeased to see that the entry I wrote for Sunday did not appear. Huff!!! However I guess you may well feel that a shopping trip was not worth reading about. But, believe me, it was just as hornswaggling as all our other activities. Never mind. It's now 11.25pm, and I'm not spending my last waking minutes today on a shopping trip we did yesterday.
This morning began at 5.30 as we were being picked up from our hotel at 6.30am for our 3 hour bus trip to Naples and Pompeii. Most of the passengers were overnighting in Sorrento, but we booked to return at 8.30 tonight. A long day, but at least we're back. We only have one day left now and there's some major omissions such as the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon.
Naples is 200km south of Rome. We drove past such famed places as Tivoli, the Monte Casino Abbey which was built in 577AD and frequently attacked and restored until 1944 when the Allied Army dropped 600 tonnes of bombs on it, killing 75,000 people including our Maori Battalion. Yet again it has been restored to its former glory. It was delightful driving through the luxuriant countryside, so tranquil now with its vast crops of grapes, citrus fruits, tobacco and vibrant oleander trees. Southern Italy is prized for its beauty and tranquility, and many exceedingly wealthy Italians have their holiday homes in the area. Sophia Loren was born in this area. We drove past Mt Vesuvius but she was shrouded by mist at that stage in the day.
We reached Naples around 11am . The population there is 4 1/2 million , 3 million of whom live in the CBD in squalid conditions in high-rise tower blocks. It has a reputation as a den of iniquity, such a stark contrast to the Amalfi Coast, which is a billionaire's playground. Super-yachts are parked close together like a Wilson's carpark. There were 4 cruise boats in the Naples harbour and the congestion was horrific. Fortunately our coach made no attempt to allow us to disembark. There was absolutely no room to walk anywhere.
We drove on to the fringes of Pompeii for a pre-ordered pizza lunch with limoncello before starting our 2 hour walking tour of a tiny section of the 163 acres of Pompeii City which was destroyed by Mt Vesuvius in 79AD killing about 22,000 inhabitants. It was discovered in 1748 and the restoration has been going on ever since. The inhabitants of the city had such a sophisticated life style and it was fascinating hearing the descriptions of this while we were actually standing there on site.
By the afternoon, the mist had cleared from Mt Vesuvius and she looked totally benign - which she is not. Her most recent eruption was in 1944 and she is expected to blow again in 20 - 30 years time. Currently 20,000 earthquakes are being recorded PER DAY. That has not deterred the 700,000 people who live happily around her base now.
Some of our bus passengers were going on to holiday in Capris which has 15- 20,000 visitors per day in this summertime . We were very content to climb back into the half empty coach to return to Rome.
I was extremely displeased to see that the entry I wrote for Sunday did not appear. Huff!!! However I guess you may well feel that a shopping trip was not worth reading about. But, believe me, it was just as hornswaggling as all our other activities. Never mind. It's now 11.25pm, and I'm not spending my last waking minutes today on a shopping trip we did yesterday.
This morning began at 5.30 as we were being picked up from our hotel at 6.30am for our 3 hour bus trip to Naples and Pompeii. Most of the passengers were overnighting in Sorrento, but we booked to return at 8.30 tonight. A long day, but at least we're back. We only have one day left now and there's some major omissions such as the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon.
Naples is 200km south of Rome. We drove past such famed places as Tivoli, the Monte Casino Abbey which was built in 577AD and frequently attacked and restored until 1944 when the Allied Army dropped 600 tonnes of bombs on it, killing 75,000 people including our Maori Battalion. Yet again it has been restored to its former glory. It was delightful driving through the luxuriant countryside, so tranquil now with its vast crops of grapes, citrus fruits, tobacco and vibrant oleander trees. Southern Italy is prized for its beauty and tranquility, and many exceedingly wealthy Italians have their holiday homes in the area. Sophia Loren was born in this area. We drove past Mt Vesuvius but she was shrouded by mist at that stage in the day.
We reached Naples around 11am . The population there is 4 1/2 million , 3 million of whom live in the CBD in squalid conditions in high-rise tower blocks. It has a reputation as a den of iniquity, such a stark contrast to the Amalfi Coast, which is a billionaire's playground. Super-yachts are parked close together like a Wilson's carpark. There were 4 cruise boats in the Naples harbour and the congestion was horrific. Fortunately our coach made no attempt to allow us to disembark. There was absolutely no room to walk anywhere.
We drove on to the fringes of Pompeii for a pre-ordered pizza lunch with limoncello before starting our 2 hour walking tour of a tiny section of the 163 acres of Pompeii City which was destroyed by Mt Vesuvius in 79AD killing about 22,000 inhabitants. It was discovered in 1748 and the restoration has been going on ever since. The inhabitants of the city had such a sophisticated life style and it was fascinating hearing the descriptions of this while we were actually standing there on site.
By the afternoon, the mist had cleared from Mt Vesuvius and she looked totally benign - which she is not. Her most recent eruption was in 1944 and she is expected to blow again in 20 - 30 years time. Currently 20,000 earthquakes are being recorded PER DAY. That has not deterred the 700,000 people who live happily around her base now.
Some of our bus passengers were going on to holiday in Capris which has 15- 20,000 visitors per day in this summertime . We were very content to climb back into the half empty coach to return to Rome.
Saturday 15 June 2019
Saturday 15th June - Rome
Today was the walking tour of the Colosseum which was another of the 3 I booked weeks ago. After our experience of St Peter's Basilica yesterday, we were a tad apprehensive, but we turned up at the required 8.30 (the bus driver actually turned up at 7.30 to find he had muddled the tours) and off we zoomed through slightly less traffic way across town and spilled us out to join hundreds of others in clusters and the long queue. This was another"must book ahead" case. We were put into a group of 12 English speaking people and off we waddled following our flag-bearing guide walking right past the long queues and through a separate entrance for organized people. It's all so Mother Duck and her ducklings. We're all plugged into our headsets (whispers) and cling to Mother Duck for sheer survival. This guide spoke better English at a slower rate so I was able to make some notes as we went.
The Colosseum was an amphitheatre ordered by the first Roman Emperorer Augustus in 76 AD and opened for free entertainment plus bread to all people of Rome. The political grandstanding was held 2 days a week for 5 centuries during which time millions of humans and animals were slaughtered for fun. The arena held 60,000 people and was acoustically perfect. The stage area was built if wood and covered in sand to soak up the blood. Elevators were invented to lift the participants up to stage level from the vast tunnels and holding pens underneath. The spectacle started at 8.30 with gladiators against beasts; at 12.00 the criminals contest the beasts and at 4.00 gladiators pitched against each other. The crowd decided who won and should be freed. The other was killed. There is a large cross erected just as a Christian presence. You'll remember the story of Androcles and the lion, I'm sure and this was the setting.
The Colosseum was covered in marble over the stone work. That marble was all stolen centuries later in order to build the 500 churches in Rome today. Recycling they called it.
Rome was born in 8 BC on the Pallentine Hill overlooking the Tiber River which we climbed up after the tour of the Colosseum. The Temple of the Eternal City was built by the first emperor, Hadrian, in 2 AD. There were 11 aquaducts built .
We saw through the private hippodrome built in 1 AD. So much of this colossal domain remains because it was not bombed at all during the wars. We could see the teams of restoration builders working on various sites. The Palace was covered in marble brought over from Egypt and some of it remains to be seen today. When Nero came in to rule his palace was coated in gold just to outdo the Egyptian marble used by his predecessor. However, Nero was such a wicked ruler, with his cruelty and sadism going as far as his murder of both his mother and wife, and the crucifixion of St Peter upside down, that when he died, the public buried his palace where it remains today.
It was fascinating to see the remains of the Vesta temple which marked the centre of this eternal city now in ruins. The Vestal Virgins were (I think 12) female children chosen from wealthy families to keep the flame burning in the Vesta. They were held captive for this task for their lifetime - and there it still stands today.
I found all this so enthralling. I took Latin for 3 years at high school, but it was only today that all that boring history became a reality.
We were certainly in better shape when a taxi returned us to our hotel today, even though we had walked 15,000 steps , but really there's nothing to beat a siesta. That restored us sufficiently to continue our pina colada research in the early evening, happen upon the beautiful Basilica of St Mary Major standing alone with no pesky selfie seekers, and make a decision over the ristorante for our risotto and prosecco.
A really absorbingly interesting day. Much to my astonishment, Peter has chosen a shopping tour for tomorrow's activity. We're to be collected by coach at 11.00am and whisked off to a vast outlet shopping centre for four hours. I suspect the attraction is air conditioning, seats, coffee, loos and an absence of selfie narcissists. Other visitors prefer the Pantheon but we may have had our fill of history.
Today was the walking tour of the Colosseum which was another of the 3 I booked weeks ago. After our experience of St Peter's Basilica yesterday, we were a tad apprehensive, but we turned up at the required 8.30 (the bus driver actually turned up at 7.30 to find he had muddled the tours) and off we zoomed through slightly less traffic way across town and spilled us out to join hundreds of others in clusters and the long queue. This was another"must book ahead" case. We were put into a group of 12 English speaking people and off we waddled following our flag-bearing guide walking right past the long queues and through a separate entrance for organized people. It's all so Mother Duck and her ducklings. We're all plugged into our headsets (whispers) and cling to Mother Duck for sheer survival. This guide spoke better English at a slower rate so I was able to make some notes as we went.
The Colosseum was an amphitheatre ordered by the first Roman Emperorer Augustus in 76 AD and opened for free entertainment plus bread to all people of Rome. The political grandstanding was held 2 days a week for 5 centuries during which time millions of humans and animals were slaughtered for fun. The arena held 60,000 people and was acoustically perfect. The stage area was built if wood and covered in sand to soak up the blood. Elevators were invented to lift the participants up to stage level from the vast tunnels and holding pens underneath. The spectacle started at 8.30 with gladiators against beasts; at 12.00 the criminals contest the beasts and at 4.00 gladiators pitched against each other. The crowd decided who won and should be freed. The other was killed. There is a large cross erected just as a Christian presence. You'll remember the story of Androcles and the lion, I'm sure and this was the setting.
The Colosseum was covered in marble over the stone work. That marble was all stolen centuries later in order to build the 500 churches in Rome today. Recycling they called it.
Rome was born in 8 BC on the Pallentine Hill overlooking the Tiber River which we climbed up after the tour of the Colosseum. The Temple of the Eternal City was built by the first emperor, Hadrian, in 2 AD. There were 11 aquaducts built .
We saw through the private hippodrome built in 1 AD. So much of this colossal domain remains because it was not bombed at all during the wars. We could see the teams of restoration builders working on various sites. The Palace was covered in marble brought over from Egypt and some of it remains to be seen today. When Nero came in to rule his palace was coated in gold just to outdo the Egyptian marble used by his predecessor. However, Nero was such a wicked ruler, with his cruelty and sadism going as far as his murder of both his mother and wife, and the crucifixion of St Peter upside down, that when he died, the public buried his palace where it remains today.
It was fascinating to see the remains of the Vesta temple which marked the centre of this eternal city now in ruins. The Vestal Virgins were (I think 12) female children chosen from wealthy families to keep the flame burning in the Vesta. They were held captive for this task for their lifetime - and there it still stands today.
I found all this so enthralling. I took Latin for 3 years at high school, but it was only today that all that boring history became a reality.
We were certainly in better shape when a taxi returned us to our hotel today, even though we had walked 15,000 steps , but really there's nothing to beat a siesta. That restored us sufficiently to continue our pina colada research in the early evening, happen upon the beautiful Basilica of St Mary Major standing alone with no pesky selfie seekers, and make a decision over the ristorante for our risotto and prosecco.
A really absorbingly interesting day. Much to my astonishment, Peter has chosen a shopping tour for tomorrow's activity. We're to be collected by coach at 11.00am and whisked off to a vast outlet shopping centre for four hours. I suspect the attraction is air conditioning, seats, coffee, loos and an absence of selfie narcissists. Other visitors prefer the Pantheon but we may have had our fill of history.
Friday 14 June 2019
Friday 14th June - Rome
Happy birthday Anne. Hope you got my email.
This morning we needed to be in the foyer of the hotel to be picked up for something I booked months ago and have now forgotten.
And we were, and it turned out to be a tour of the Vatican City. My goodness me!!!! It was similar to our tour of Versailles when all I could see right the way around was the back of Peter's shirt. If any of you are planning on going, or have friends with plans, tell them they absolutely must book a tour group. Chaos reigned. And all in temperatures that soared to 37C. When we were finally sorted into an English speaking group, we followed our guide on an endless walk up hill passing many hundreds of people just sitting in a queue. The closer we came to the entrance, the more the people looked statuesque. Had they been there from the day before?
We entered the Vatican Museum first where photos are allowed without flash and the guides are allowed to tell you all they know. We had a charming Italian lady who knew everything so after the first half hour we just had to pull the whisper plugs out of our ears. I can actually tell you nothing at all. It was an arduous experience which took heavy toll on Peter so I was more concerned on his keeping up with the group in that mass of humanity. The art collection is supreme but after two hours in those crowds, in that heat we would have liked to bail out. But we couldn't. Where's out? Then suddenly we were divorced from our guide, told to put our cameras away, and given half an hour to go through the Sistine Chapel and meet up with our guide at the other end. Throughout the Chapel guards were constantly moving people along, trying to stop them from talking. What a job! Of course it was all totally breathtaking but equally exhausting.
Then just when we thought it was over, we had to walk through the Basilica itself and listen to our guide telling us all she knew. It is all unimaginably huge, and bigger and better than anything anywhere else in the world (so we kept being told). I can fully understand the motivation behind the Reformation. There was no reason to be quite so callous about it, but a change was warranted.
Eventually we were allowed outside into the Square where the Pope speaks to the masses and of course that too was vast. Eventually the guide ended the tour and left us outside Vatican City, back in Rome having walked 11,000 steps, and having no idea where we were. Our most dire needs were drink , chairs and food (at 1.30pm)
so we staggered into an air conditioned restoronti and started the recovery process.
Actually one of the most entertaining aspects of the tour was watching those whose custom it is trying desperately to get photos of themselves by these monumental art works in that density of humanity. They truly expected us to move around them to get the perfect shot. I'm sure the inability quite ruined their experience. They even tried it in front of The Pieter. NO!.
Eventually we grabbed a cab and he drove us for an endless amount of time through the insane traffic to our front door. Dear man. Then a shower and bed. That was our once-in-a-life-time Vatican City experience. And to think that is going on 364 days of every year (presuming they have Christmas day off). What a huge business enterprise it is.
Much later in the day, we hobbled out the front door of our hotel and tried turning right. It was a tad cooler by then so we tried walking around the block and discovering our whereabouts. And there was the railway station where we came in last evening. How funny. We had no idea we were that close. It took our taxi driver an age to get us here, but that's because of the density of the traffic and the one-way system. Our feet were still smarting from the morning, so we found ourselves a restaurant on a footpath with the railtrack running alongside and enjoyed prosecco and sea bass which is certainly my favourite. Quite apart from the monuments, history and architecture of this city, the people are an entertainment in their own right. How can people be so entirely different? FASCINATING!!!
Happy birthday Anne. Hope you got my email.
This morning we needed to be in the foyer of the hotel to be picked up for something I booked months ago and have now forgotten.
And we were, and it turned out to be a tour of the Vatican City. My goodness me!!!! It was similar to our tour of Versailles when all I could see right the way around was the back of Peter's shirt. If any of you are planning on going, or have friends with plans, tell them they absolutely must book a tour group. Chaos reigned. And all in temperatures that soared to 37C. When we were finally sorted into an English speaking group, we followed our guide on an endless walk up hill passing many hundreds of people just sitting in a queue. The closer we came to the entrance, the more the people looked statuesque. Had they been there from the day before?
We entered the Vatican Museum first where photos are allowed without flash and the guides are allowed to tell you all they know. We had a charming Italian lady who knew everything so after the first half hour we just had to pull the whisper plugs out of our ears. I can actually tell you nothing at all. It was an arduous experience which took heavy toll on Peter so I was more concerned on his keeping up with the group in that mass of humanity. The art collection is supreme but after two hours in those crowds, in that heat we would have liked to bail out. But we couldn't. Where's out? Then suddenly we were divorced from our guide, told to put our cameras away, and given half an hour to go through the Sistine Chapel and meet up with our guide at the other end. Throughout the Chapel guards were constantly moving people along, trying to stop them from talking. What a job! Of course it was all totally breathtaking but equally exhausting.
Then just when we thought it was over, we had to walk through the Basilica itself and listen to our guide telling us all she knew. It is all unimaginably huge, and bigger and better than anything anywhere else in the world (so we kept being told). I can fully understand the motivation behind the Reformation. There was no reason to be quite so callous about it, but a change was warranted.
Eventually we were allowed outside into the Square where the Pope speaks to the masses and of course that too was vast. Eventually the guide ended the tour and left us outside Vatican City, back in Rome having walked 11,000 steps, and having no idea where we were. Our most dire needs were drink , chairs and food (at 1.30pm)
so we staggered into an air conditioned restoronti and started the recovery process.
Actually one of the most entertaining aspects of the tour was watching those whose custom it is trying desperately to get photos of themselves by these monumental art works in that density of humanity. They truly expected us to move around them to get the perfect shot. I'm sure the inability quite ruined their experience. They even tried it in front of The Pieter. NO!.
Eventually we grabbed a cab and he drove us for an endless amount of time through the insane traffic to our front door. Dear man. Then a shower and bed. That was our once-in-a-life-time Vatican City experience. And to think that is going on 364 days of every year (presuming they have Christmas day off). What a huge business enterprise it is.
Much later in the day, we hobbled out the front door of our hotel and tried turning right. It was a tad cooler by then so we tried walking around the block and discovering our whereabouts. And there was the railway station where we came in last evening. How funny. We had no idea we were that close. It took our taxi driver an age to get us here, but that's because of the density of the traffic and the one-way system. Our feet were still smarting from the morning, so we found ourselves a restaurant on a footpath with the railtrack running alongside and enjoyed prosecco and sea bass which is certainly my favourite. Quite apart from the monuments, history and architecture of this city, the people are an entertainment in their own right. How can people be so entirely different? FASCINATING!!!
Thursday 13 June 2019
Thursday 14th June - Rome
We've arrived!!!! A grand achievement!
Our only event today was a visit to an olive oil boutique enterprise with tastings and then an oily lunch. It was all presented so professionally and what it showed me was the superb standard of oils produced in NZ.
This enterprise produced 20 different oils, but there are 600 which exist in Italy. We learned the meaning of the term "extra virgin oil" and the way they actually extract the oil. A tour through the processing plant was all new to us. This enterprise employs about 50 pickers per season.
After seeing how the mechanical press operated we were taken upstairs to the tasting table where we were given 3 little samples of their oil. How very interesting to hear about the subtleties of these. I could taste no difference whatsoever and did not like any of them. Then we had a 4 course lunch offered to us during which we tried those same 3 oils with tomato, mozzarella cheese and bread. The next course was a delightful chick pea soup into which we were supposed to stir the decreed oil. I preferred not to. Then we were presented with thinly sliced raw beef on lettuce leaves and told to try the oils on them .Peter and I declined that altogether. This was followed by a very dark chocolate icecream over which an oil had been poured. One mouthful, that was it. The other group members bought up large, but we escaped into the sunshine and settled on to the bus. We were far more interested in getting to Rome.
And so we did. Not easily, mind you. Mercifully our tour guide was returning to Rome via the fast Express, so we could tag along behind him. What chaos!!!! However, by asking lots of questions we caught the 4.13 pm train. It was running a tad late but that's ok. Passengers have 8 minutes from the time of the announcement of the Platform number to the departure of the train whether you're on it or not. It just closes its doors and goes. We had booked first class which proved an excellent idea. It included a juice and a bikkie. The train winds up to 250kph so the trip was an easy 1 1/2 hours. Very pleasant and comfortable.
Of course then we were tipped off the train as quickly as possible and went in search of a taxi to battle the insane traffic to reach our Best Western Hotel which was very close to the station but totally impossible for us to achieve with the density of people and traffic and our heavy bags. What a lovely warm welcome we received here. We really felt so triumphant. We have a magnificent room with an enormous bathroom with a black, twinkly , marble floor. Goodness me. We managed to get to the sumptuous dining room, down margaritas and proseccos, eat vege soup and Veal done the way Italians do, a fruit salad and stagger to bed. Not too sure how this combines with Peter's drugs but we'll find out in the morning.
We've arrived!!!! A grand achievement!
Our only event today was a visit to an olive oil boutique enterprise with tastings and then an oily lunch. It was all presented so professionally and what it showed me was the superb standard of oils produced in NZ.
This enterprise produced 20 different oils, but there are 600 which exist in Italy. We learned the meaning of the term "extra virgin oil" and the way they actually extract the oil. A tour through the processing plant was all new to us. This enterprise employs about 50 pickers per season.
After seeing how the mechanical press operated we were taken upstairs to the tasting table where we were given 3 little samples of their oil. How very interesting to hear about the subtleties of these. I could taste no difference whatsoever and did not like any of them. Then we had a 4 course lunch offered to us during which we tried those same 3 oils with tomato, mozzarella cheese and bread. The next course was a delightful chick pea soup into which we were supposed to stir the decreed oil. I preferred not to. Then we were presented with thinly sliced raw beef on lettuce leaves and told to try the oils on them .Peter and I declined that altogether. This was followed by a very dark chocolate icecream over which an oil had been poured. One mouthful, that was it. The other group members bought up large, but we escaped into the sunshine and settled on to the bus. We were far more interested in getting to Rome.
And so we did. Not easily, mind you. Mercifully our tour guide was returning to Rome via the fast Express, so we could tag along behind him. What chaos!!!! However, by asking lots of questions we caught the 4.13 pm train. It was running a tad late but that's ok. Passengers have 8 minutes from the time of the announcement of the Platform number to the departure of the train whether you're on it or not. It just closes its doors and goes. We had booked first class which proved an excellent idea. It included a juice and a bikkie. The train winds up to 250kph so the trip was an easy 1 1/2 hours. Very pleasant and comfortable.
Of course then we were tipped off the train as quickly as possible and went in search of a taxi to battle the insane traffic to reach our Best Western Hotel which was very close to the station but totally impossible for us to achieve with the density of people and traffic and our heavy bags. What a lovely warm welcome we received here. We really felt so triumphant. We have a magnificent room with an enormous bathroom with a black, twinkly , marble floor. Goodness me. We managed to get to the sumptuous dining room, down margaritas and proseccos, eat vege soup and Veal done the way Italians do, a fruit salad and stagger to bed. Not too sure how this combines with Peter's drugs but we'll find out in the morning.
Wednesday 12 June 2019
Wednesday 13 June - The same place.
Our unit is a 2 bedroomed one with a large family room and kitchen. This meant that I could leave Peter to his misery and sleep in another room with the door shut. I awoke at 8.30 this morning to the most heavenly picture calendar scene and the birds shrilling in the sunshine. Did Peter survive the night? YES!!! Aren't antibiotics wonderful. He had been awake for a couple of hours and was wondering if I had survived the night. The best sleep I had had since we left NZ.
The programme for the morning was an Italian cookery class offered by our resort. This gave Peter the opportunity to relax for the morning and me the opportunity to be entertained by the 2 very Italian chefs who had us making I crostini di fegatini (chicken liver toasts -for those of you who didn't know) and Le fettuccine con salsa di pomodoro e basilica. You can work that one out. Fettuccine with a tomato and basil sauce. My forte was setting the table for 18, Italian style. What a table cloth!!!!!. Of course the lure for all this was getting to eat the resultant huge lunch washed down with limitless wine followed by espresso, Italian style.
We didn't return to our units until after 2pm. By this time Peter was showing signs of his former self, and by the time he had his afternoon snooze, there was another improvement. The temperature was many degrees cooler today (or was it that we were 800 meters up and not cooped up in a bus driving winding back country roads for 3 hours? Peter felt up to a slow evening stroll around the estate, catching up on the news from the various resident cats. We came upon our group who had met for a second evening of enjoying the wine and cheese they had bought from our travels. This led inevitably to wandering off to another fabulous Tuscan meal with a variety of Italian wines.
I have every intention of remembering this Tuscan Treats trip for the rest of my life. Off to Rome tomorrow.
Our unit is a 2 bedroomed one with a large family room and kitchen. This meant that I could leave Peter to his misery and sleep in another room with the door shut. I awoke at 8.30 this morning to the most heavenly picture calendar scene and the birds shrilling in the sunshine. Did Peter survive the night? YES!!! Aren't antibiotics wonderful. He had been awake for a couple of hours and was wondering if I had survived the night. The best sleep I had had since we left NZ.
The programme for the morning was an Italian cookery class offered by our resort. This gave Peter the opportunity to relax for the morning and me the opportunity to be entertained by the 2 very Italian chefs who had us making I crostini di fegatini (chicken liver toasts -for those of you who didn't know) and Le fettuccine con salsa di pomodoro e basilica. You can work that one out. Fettuccine with a tomato and basil sauce. My forte was setting the table for 18, Italian style. What a table cloth!!!!!. Of course the lure for all this was getting to eat the resultant huge lunch washed down with limitless wine followed by espresso, Italian style.
We didn't return to our units until after 2pm. By this time Peter was showing signs of his former self, and by the time he had his afternoon snooze, there was another improvement. The temperature was many degrees cooler today (or was it that we were 800 meters up and not cooped up in a bus driving winding back country roads for 3 hours? Peter felt up to a slow evening stroll around the estate, catching up on the news from the various resident cats. We came upon our group who had met for a second evening of enjoying the wine and cheese they had bought from our travels. This led inevitably to wandering off to another fabulous Tuscan meal with a variety of Italian wines.
I have every intention of remembering this Tuscan Treats trip for the rest of my life. Off to Rome tomorrow.
Tuesday 11 June 2019
Tuesday 11th June - Fattoria degli Usignoli
Truth to tell I have no idea where we are. The book just says Tuscany but then the whole trip has been Tuscany. We are 800 meters above sea level in a large resort. I can find no information on it at all.
Our main focus since I wrote yesterday has been keeping Peter breathing. He brought his inhaler but it had expired. So there we were all through the night with him having to stay upright to breathe. Needless to say sleep was infrequent. So this morning our tour guide and one of our group who is a career nurse went on a hunt through Pienza to try to find a doctor. Remarkably difficult. However we did locate a chemist who was not prepared to let us have the antibiotics the nurse said he needed. We had a full on Italian "discussion" with all the accompanying gesticulating and modulation, but ur did result in the antibiotics for €7.50. He would not let us have the inhaler which was on the shelf behind him. VERY frustrating. So after dosing him with that and parasol he climbed into the bus curled up in the backseat and concentrated on breathing
On the group went to an inorganic farm called the Monticiello cheese factory. The valley was bought 3 generations ago by a Swiss couple and has now gained UNESCO recognition with its production of Pecorino cheese. They also grow olives, produce boutique wines. Are a self-sufficient farm used as a national training centre. All a huge enterprise. We thoroughly enjoyed the lunch they served up to us.
The three hour drive to the resort we are in now was long , hot and tedious. Peter had to be transferred to the tour guide's seat at the front and the rest of us wished we could be. It was a real case of "Are we there yet". By 5pm we drove up the regal cypress lined driveway and helped unload our cases. I was delighted to see a 2 bed-roomed unit, so I'm expecting a better night's sleep.
Truth to tell I have no idea where we are. The book just says Tuscany but then the whole trip has been Tuscany. We are 800 meters above sea level in a large resort. I can find no information on it at all.
Our main focus since I wrote yesterday has been keeping Peter breathing. He brought his inhaler but it had expired. So there we were all through the night with him having to stay upright to breathe. Needless to say sleep was infrequent. So this morning our tour guide and one of our group who is a career nurse went on a hunt through Pienza to try to find a doctor. Remarkably difficult. However we did locate a chemist who was not prepared to let us have the antibiotics the nurse said he needed. We had a full on Italian "discussion" with all the accompanying gesticulating and modulation, but ur did result in the antibiotics for €7.50. He would not let us have the inhaler which was on the shelf behind him. VERY frustrating. So after dosing him with that and parasol he climbed into the bus curled up in the backseat and concentrated on breathing
On the group went to an inorganic farm called the Monticiello cheese factory. The valley was bought 3 generations ago by a Swiss couple and has now gained UNESCO recognition with its production of Pecorino cheese. They also grow olives, produce boutique wines. Are a self-sufficient farm used as a national training centre. All a huge enterprise. We thoroughly enjoyed the lunch they served up to us.
The three hour drive to the resort we are in now was long , hot and tedious. Peter had to be transferred to the tour guide's seat at the front and the rest of us wished we could be. It was a real case of "Are we there yet". By 5pm we drove up the regal cypress lined driveway and helped unload our cases. I was delighted to see a 2 bed-roomed unit, so I'm expecting a better night's sleep.
Monday 10 June 2019
Monday, 10th June - Pienza
Well, the day dawned bright and clear but Peter did not. I know that cough and it leads to trouble. What a shame. He did all this in Ireland 4 years ago, so really has no need to repeat the performance. However, we had no choice but to stick him on a seat on his own in the coach, strap him in and carry on regardless.
Remember the movie 'Tea with Mousilini'? That was set in San Gimignano which was our first stop today. It has a population of 7,000 and is famous for its towers which were a means of showing the wealth of the property owners. "Mine's taller than yours ". It is also the home of a magnificent piazza. After a very steep climb up the hill, (Peter found that hugely challenging), we were treated to gelato from the Gelateria Dondoli which proudly sported many awards on its front entranceway. There was a long queue but as a tour group we enjoyed priority treatment. Funnily enough there was another larger gelateria on another side of the square professing to make the best gelato in the world but noone was in the shop.
After a short bus ride we pulled in to Fattoria San Donato for an explanation of his winemaking skills and then were treated to a Tuscan lunch including homemade bread, a variety of olive oils, a salami selection, bread and mozzarella cheese, a platter of olives. Oh, and red and white wine. All the other members of the group bought gift boxes of wine, but we feel NZ wines are totally satisfactory. Anyway, Peter was too unwell to partake of the lunch let alone buy wine.
The bus trip for the next hour was extremely quiet punctuated only by gentle snoring until we reached Siena with its population of 53,000. It is one of the 58 UNESCO sites in Italy famed for its cathedral which was built in the 12th century. It is considered the most ornamented in Europe. It required a very steep long walk through the narrow winding streets which were very hot with the brutal crowds of tourists. This proved too much for Peter, so we hailed a taxi which took him back to the shade and peace and quiet of the bus. Much to my surprise, our guide insisted on looking after Peter while I went to the Cathedral. Oh, my goodness. I can see why. Is this my favourite? Judging from the number of photos, it just could be. I was very grateful to Mario for his care of the situation thus giving me the opportunity to see this magnificent piece of architecture.
Another hour's drive we climbed 500 meters above sea level to the incredible accommodation booked for us in the 15th century Franciscan Covent which was restored in 1993. The Covent is beside the 13th century San Francesco church and is a good central point from which to view Siena, Frienze, Arrezzo, Perugia, Assissi, and Orvieto. The town has the usual array of superb cuisine, but I really felt Peter needed vegetable soup (for which the waiter brought knife and fork) followed by a nice quiet vanilla gelato. As for me, vino bianco, wild boar stew and gelato just to check its suitability for Peter, you understand.
We're now settled in our vast 3 roomed suite and 4 poster bed into which Peter has sunk and floated off to dreamland. Let's hope he is vastly improved in the morning. There is too much fun organized for him to be poorly.
Well, the day dawned bright and clear but Peter did not. I know that cough and it leads to trouble. What a shame. He did all this in Ireland 4 years ago, so really has no need to repeat the performance. However, we had no choice but to stick him on a seat on his own in the coach, strap him in and carry on regardless.
Remember the movie 'Tea with Mousilini'? That was set in San Gimignano which was our first stop today. It has a population of 7,000 and is famous for its towers which were a means of showing the wealth of the property owners. "Mine's taller than yours ". It is also the home of a magnificent piazza. After a very steep climb up the hill, (Peter found that hugely challenging), we were treated to gelato from the Gelateria Dondoli which proudly sported many awards on its front entranceway. There was a long queue but as a tour group we enjoyed priority treatment. Funnily enough there was another larger gelateria on another side of the square professing to make the best gelato in the world but noone was in the shop.
After a short bus ride we pulled in to Fattoria San Donato for an explanation of his winemaking skills and then were treated to a Tuscan lunch including homemade bread, a variety of olive oils, a salami selection, bread and mozzarella cheese, a platter of olives. Oh, and red and white wine. All the other members of the group bought gift boxes of wine, but we feel NZ wines are totally satisfactory. Anyway, Peter was too unwell to partake of the lunch let alone buy wine.
The bus trip for the next hour was extremely quiet punctuated only by gentle snoring until we reached Siena with its population of 53,000. It is one of the 58 UNESCO sites in Italy famed for its cathedral which was built in the 12th century. It is considered the most ornamented in Europe. It required a very steep long walk through the narrow winding streets which were very hot with the brutal crowds of tourists. This proved too much for Peter, so we hailed a taxi which took him back to the shade and peace and quiet of the bus. Much to my surprise, our guide insisted on looking after Peter while I went to the Cathedral. Oh, my goodness. I can see why. Is this my favourite? Judging from the number of photos, it just could be. I was very grateful to Mario for his care of the situation thus giving me the opportunity to see this magnificent piece of architecture.
Another hour's drive we climbed 500 meters above sea level to the incredible accommodation booked for us in the 15th century Franciscan Covent which was restored in 1993. The Covent is beside the 13th century San Francesco church and is a good central point from which to view Siena, Frienze, Arrezzo, Perugia, Assissi, and Orvieto. The town has the usual array of superb cuisine, but I really felt Peter needed vegetable soup (for which the waiter brought knife and fork) followed by a nice quiet vanilla gelato. As for me, vino bianco, wild boar stew and gelato just to check its suitability for Peter, you understand.
We're now settled in our vast 3 roomed suite and 4 poster bed into which Peter has sunk and floated off to dreamland. Let's hope he is vastly improved in the morning. There is too much fun organized for him to be poorly.
Sunday 9 June 2019
Sunday 9 June - Volterra
After yet another night's painful intermittent sleep on a rock hard slab, we levered ourselves onto our little coach and drove for a couple of hours to Pisa with its resident population of 120,000. Its tourist population is beyond calculation. Constant swarms come to view its famed leaning tower which was closed in 1990 to give it additional support to stop it leaning further. It was straightened only by 80 centimeters so that the tourist trade could continue. EVERYBODY wanted their classic photo of standing in the most grotesque poses so the photo made it look as if they were holding it up. Peter and I did not stoop to such common stupidity. The Pisa Cathedral was started to be built in 1115AD but took 5 centuries to be completed. Being a Sunday we were only allowed to stand at the back so as not to interrupt the ritual. The organ was in full throttle as we entered but unfortunately came to the closing cadences. However we stayed in the cool peace for some of the Gregorian chanting until it was time for the Baptistry to be opened to the public following a baptism. Do you know that the people who do were still posing in their stupidity in front of the Gothic pulpit which is considered to be the most beautiful in Europe. I think such behaviour is sacrilegious . In the Cathedral is the lamp that Galileo used to assist in his planetary theories that caused him to be imprisoned for daring to contradict the catholic belief that the sun revolved around the earth. Mercifully he was not beheaded so somebody had some appreciation of scientific theory back in the day.
We could not handle tourists' crass behaviour so found ourselves a haven for the cappuccino and loo ritual in a shady spot around where the tourist horses and carriages were waiting their turn to clop these people who needed to be photographed around the town once they'd finished holding the leaning tower. We sat down at a table next to a German couple. The wife had just fallen down a curb or a cobblestone and either broken or badly sprained her ankle. So, so easy. It certainly slowed us down Fortunately they were with a group, so the official tour leader was making arrangements for her care.
At 12.30 we took refuge from the crippling heat and returned to our beautifully air conditioned little coach, and to the accompaniment of Botticelli who was born in Pisa, we were driven along the Aurelia Highway to Volterra. Both Peter and I considered that the tenor we heard in Lucca last evening was way better than Botticelli but we would not dare confess to that opinion in public. This medieval town is built on a plateau and archeologists have found proof of a 10,000 year history. We were taken through the town to view the remains of an unrestored Roman Theatre and then to our enchanting Tuscan hotel. It was great to be told we were free until 8.15am tomorrow. What with the heat of the afternoon sun, and our two sleep-deprived nights we had reached the end of our interest in anything else old. We were consumed with our own oldness.
However, after a couple of hours sleep on a mattress that did give us comfortable support, we sallied forth after 6pm when the sun had less ferocity and slowly ambled back up the steep slopes to the town centre where there had been great festivities and merriment at a Mystery and Magic festival for which many of the locals had dressed in such entertaining costumes. People had flocked from other regions to be part of the fun, but we thoroughly enjoyed our diligent research into pina coladas. All the shops were still open and crowds had emerged in the cool of the evening to eat, drink and be merry. Such fun. There is no alcohol abuse throughout Italy because there is no restriction on its consumption. Interesting to see this attitude put into practice. I would have thought that at the end of such a Festival of celebration the town would have been littered with drunken youths and their disgusting rubbish. Not a bit if it.
So we found ourselves a little Tuscan crepery and enjoyed our accompanying chianti in peace and quiet.
After yet another night's painful intermittent sleep on a rock hard slab, we levered ourselves onto our little coach and drove for a couple of hours to Pisa with its resident population of 120,000. Its tourist population is beyond calculation. Constant swarms come to view its famed leaning tower which was closed in 1990 to give it additional support to stop it leaning further. It was straightened only by 80 centimeters so that the tourist trade could continue. EVERYBODY wanted their classic photo of standing in the most grotesque poses so the photo made it look as if they were holding it up. Peter and I did not stoop to such common stupidity. The Pisa Cathedral was started to be built in 1115AD but took 5 centuries to be completed. Being a Sunday we were only allowed to stand at the back so as not to interrupt the ritual. The organ was in full throttle as we entered but unfortunately came to the closing cadences. However we stayed in the cool peace for some of the Gregorian chanting until it was time for the Baptistry to be opened to the public following a baptism. Do you know that the people who do were still posing in their stupidity in front of the Gothic pulpit which is considered to be the most beautiful in Europe. I think such behaviour is sacrilegious . In the Cathedral is the lamp that Galileo used to assist in his planetary theories that caused him to be imprisoned for daring to contradict the catholic belief that the sun revolved around the earth. Mercifully he was not beheaded so somebody had some appreciation of scientific theory back in the day.
We could not handle tourists' crass behaviour so found ourselves a haven for the cappuccino and loo ritual in a shady spot around where the tourist horses and carriages were waiting their turn to clop these people who needed to be photographed around the town once they'd finished holding the leaning tower. We sat down at a table next to a German couple. The wife had just fallen down a curb or a cobblestone and either broken or badly sprained her ankle. So, so easy. It certainly slowed us down Fortunately they were with a group, so the official tour leader was making arrangements for her care.
At 12.30 we took refuge from the crippling heat and returned to our beautifully air conditioned little coach, and to the accompaniment of Botticelli who was born in Pisa, we were driven along the Aurelia Highway to Volterra. Both Peter and I considered that the tenor we heard in Lucca last evening was way better than Botticelli but we would not dare confess to that opinion in public. This medieval town is built on a plateau and archeologists have found proof of a 10,000 year history. We were taken through the town to view the remains of an unrestored Roman Theatre and then to our enchanting Tuscan hotel. It was great to be told we were free until 8.15am tomorrow. What with the heat of the afternoon sun, and our two sleep-deprived nights we had reached the end of our interest in anything else old. We were consumed with our own oldness.
However, after a couple of hours sleep on a mattress that did give us comfortable support, we sallied forth after 6pm when the sun had less ferocity and slowly ambled back up the steep slopes to the town centre where there had been great festivities and merriment at a Mystery and Magic festival for which many of the locals had dressed in such entertaining costumes. People had flocked from other regions to be part of the fun, but we thoroughly enjoyed our diligent research into pina coladas. All the shops were still open and crowds had emerged in the cool of the evening to eat, drink and be merry. Such fun. There is no alcohol abuse throughout Italy because there is no restriction on its consumption. Interesting to see this attitude put into practice. I would have thought that at the end of such a Festival of celebration the town would have been littered with drunken youths and their disgusting rubbish. Not a bit if it.
So we found ourselves a little Tuscan crepery and enjoyed our accompanying chianti in peace and quiet.
Saturday 8 June 2019
Saturday 8 June, Lucca
Today has been one of those rare days in my life where absolutely every moment was far superior to anything I have experienced. I have looked at friends' photos and heard their travellers' tales for years, never thinking I would share their euphoria but there we were on our little bus on our way to La Spezia by 8.15am where we boarded our boat to go to the 5 villages that constitute the Cinque Terre.
En route we drove through Carrara, famed for its white, black, grey and green marble which we could see in the mountains. Pink marble is only found in Lessini and is far more expensive. Italy with its population of 60 million has four industries: automobile manufacture, agriculture, tourism and soccer. We drove for 1 1/2 hours through many lengthy tunnels, across the Margara River to reach La Spezia, a pretty harbour city of 80,000 people. We made our way through throngs of tourists, each group headed by a flag -waving guide, onto our cruise boat taking us to Vernazza, Riomaggiore, and Monterosso, three of the hamlets located on the West coast of the Riveria. Cameras clicked constantly. At first the skies were clear Kodak-blue, but as we continued a sea mist arose creating a setting for Peter Jackson's next movie. This was so mystical but certainly blighted the photos. The sea rose making alighting at the little hamlets challenging for some. However when we finally disembarked for lunch at Monterossa the skies cleared again to reveal the magic of the UNESCO heritage site.
Peter and I found ourselves a superb restaurante for a sea bass lunch, which I felt needed accompanying with a bottle of chianti. Peter was far more restrained but I needed to celebrate my grandson's birthday and welcome Edward into his teenage years in suitable Italian style.
A couple of hours later we met up with our group again to board the train to Levanto where our bus was waiting. We managed to score front seats in the bus for the first time on our trip, so could really soak up the glorious scenery along the Aurelian Road which was built 1,900 years ago by the Romans. It is the second oldest highway in Italy.
We had a brief time to change and then group with all the guests in our boutique San Marino & Diana Hotel for cocktail hour which offered a wide array of finger food and wines. I preferred Prosecco.
Our tour guide Mario had told us about a concert at the Santi Giovanni Cathedral one block away, celebrating the work of Puccini who was born in Lucca in 1858. We were astonished that only 1 other of our group was interested in attending, preferring extended cocktails or shopping or resting. For goodness sake, they could do all of that once they got home. So just three of us turned up for what turned out to be a soul-stirring performance of a variety of opera numbers sung by two grand opera singers and a spine-tingling piano medley of Wagner's finest. The pianist accompanied the singers in appropriately unassuming style, but when opportunity arose with his solo, he proved himself to be a virtuoso in his own right. And all this in a majestic cathedral built for its acoustics.
So you can tell that the whole day exhibited the finest that Italy has to offer all within a space of 12 hours. Off to Pisa in the morning.
Today has been one of those rare days in my life where absolutely every moment was far superior to anything I have experienced. I have looked at friends' photos and heard their travellers' tales for years, never thinking I would share their euphoria but there we were on our little bus on our way to La Spezia by 8.15am where we boarded our boat to go to the 5 villages that constitute the Cinque Terre.
En route we drove through Carrara, famed for its white, black, grey and green marble which we could see in the mountains. Pink marble is only found in Lessini and is far more expensive. Italy with its population of 60 million has four industries: automobile manufacture, agriculture, tourism and soccer. We drove for 1 1/2 hours through many lengthy tunnels, across the Margara River to reach La Spezia, a pretty harbour city of 80,000 people. We made our way through throngs of tourists, each group headed by a flag -waving guide, onto our cruise boat taking us to Vernazza, Riomaggiore, and Monterosso, three of the hamlets located on the West coast of the Riveria. Cameras clicked constantly. At first the skies were clear Kodak-blue, but as we continued a sea mist arose creating a setting for Peter Jackson's next movie. This was so mystical but certainly blighted the photos. The sea rose making alighting at the little hamlets challenging for some. However when we finally disembarked for lunch at Monterossa the skies cleared again to reveal the magic of the UNESCO heritage site.
Peter and I found ourselves a superb restaurante for a sea bass lunch, which I felt needed accompanying with a bottle of chianti. Peter was far more restrained but I needed to celebrate my grandson's birthday and welcome Edward into his teenage years in suitable Italian style.
A couple of hours later we met up with our group again to board the train to Levanto where our bus was waiting. We managed to score front seats in the bus for the first time on our trip, so could really soak up the glorious scenery along the Aurelian Road which was built 1,900 years ago by the Romans. It is the second oldest highway in Italy.
We had a brief time to change and then group with all the guests in our boutique San Marino & Diana Hotel for cocktail hour which offered a wide array of finger food and wines. I preferred Prosecco.
Our tour guide Mario had told us about a concert at the Santi Giovanni Cathedral one block away, celebrating the work of Puccini who was born in Lucca in 1858. We were astonished that only 1 other of our group was interested in attending, preferring extended cocktails or shopping or resting. For goodness sake, they could do all of that once they got home. So just three of us turned up for what turned out to be a soul-stirring performance of a variety of opera numbers sung by two grand opera singers and a spine-tingling piano medley of Wagner's finest. The pianist accompanied the singers in appropriately unassuming style, but when opportunity arose with his solo, he proved himself to be a virtuoso in his own right. And all this in a majestic cathedral built for its acoustics.
So you can tell that the whole day exhibited the finest that Italy has to offer all within a space of 12 hours. Off to Pisa in the morning.
Friday 7 June 2019
Friday, 7 June - Lucca
This morning we met our Backroads tour group of 16 travellers and Mario our guide. 4 couples are from NZ so it is just great to have some ordinary companions who speak normally. Although we assembled at 8.00 in Florence, we didn't set off until 9.00 and that was on a walking tour of Florence CBD. So we had seen and photographed all the points of interest, but had no idea of what we were admiring.
Josephine you asked about the Duomo photos from yesterday. I can now tell you that it was started in 1296 and intended to be the biggest and best cathedral in Europe. The basic building was completed 150 years later, but by then other cities had outdone them, so additions had to be built. Talk about one-up-manship. The Dome was added in 1420. It actually is in 2 parts and has 463 steps inside to enable folk to get to the top and see the view. Architects are still investigating the remarkable construction which has never been replicated. The adjacent Baptistry was built in the 11th century. It is far more ornate on the inside but its gold doors were added in in 1452. They were originally made of bronze covered in gold leaf, but in 1990 they were removed into safety and what we admired were just replicas. All fascinating when somebody tells you. Both the church itself and the Baptistry can be entered at a large fee when booked well in advance.
We were left for 2 hours in the plaza for lunch and shopping which suited our fellow travellers who had no earlier shopping experience. I have now met my 23kg limit so am confined from here on to window shopping. Peter however was talked into the purchase of a genuine leather satchel which I feel will be extremely useful when he needs something with more class than his old trusty canvas bag.
At 1.00 we boarded our small Backroads van and made the 1 1/2 hour trip through the magical Tuscan landscape to our quaint hotel in Lucca, a walled 16th century city of 90,00 people. Our Mario guide took us on a walking tour around this beautiful Etruscan city.
Tonight we enjoy a banquet - Lucca style.
This morning we met our Backroads tour group of 16 travellers and Mario our guide. 4 couples are from NZ so it is just great to have some ordinary companions who speak normally. Although we assembled at 8.00 in Florence, we didn't set off until 9.00 and that was on a walking tour of Florence CBD. So we had seen and photographed all the points of interest, but had no idea of what we were admiring.
Josephine you asked about the Duomo photos from yesterday. I can now tell you that it was started in 1296 and intended to be the biggest and best cathedral in Europe. The basic building was completed 150 years later, but by then other cities had outdone them, so additions had to be built. Talk about one-up-manship. The Dome was added in 1420. It actually is in 2 parts and has 463 steps inside to enable folk to get to the top and see the view. Architects are still investigating the remarkable construction which has never been replicated. The adjacent Baptistry was built in the 11th century. It is far more ornate on the inside but its gold doors were added in in 1452. They were originally made of bronze covered in gold leaf, but in 1990 they were removed into safety and what we admired were just replicas. All fascinating when somebody tells you. Both the church itself and the Baptistry can be entered at a large fee when booked well in advance.
We were left for 2 hours in the plaza for lunch and shopping which suited our fellow travellers who had no earlier shopping experience. I have now met my 23kg limit so am confined from here on to window shopping. Peter however was talked into the purchase of a genuine leather satchel which I feel will be extremely useful when he needs something with more class than his old trusty canvas bag.
At 1.00 we boarded our small Backroads van and made the 1 1/2 hour trip through the magical Tuscan landscape to our quaint hotel in Lucca, a walled 16th century city of 90,00 people. Our Mario guide took us on a walking tour around this beautiful Etruscan city.
Tonight we enjoy a banquet - Lucca style.
Thursday 6 June 2019
Thursday, 6 June, Florence
Having realised how little of this city we could do at our pace we decided to target the Ufizzi Gallery in the morning and then do the red hop- on-hop- off bus tour which we'd already paid for before. The Gallery is just a 10 minute walk from us down by the River Arno. Our hotel concierge assured us we would not get in as we hadn't booked. But being Kiwis, we bowled along anyway. And got in. Sure we had to pay a bit extra for priority entry but it was that or give it a miss. The vastness of the collection was far, far beyond our experience. We gasped in awe for 2 1/2 hours and then needed a coffee. An overwhelming experience.
So then off to a bus-stop but had to wait 50 minutes for the next red bus to arrive. It's this sort of constraint that limits what you can achieve in a day. Our backs and feet were so just so relieved to be able to get a top deck seat and sit on it. The weather was overcast today which was so much better, allowing us to see much more. Also miraculously we picked a seat with sound and English commentary. Not a common occurence.
Florence , known as the jewel of the Renaissence, used to be the capital of Italy. It is a city of flowers and romantics. I was thrilled by the luxurious greenery , bright beds of flowers and vibrant birdsong. Of course we're in Tuscany now so think "Under the Tuscan Sun". Melodious music surrounds the traveler and lures her further into the hills above the thronging city. We wished we had time to alight at every one of the stops on offer but we must be content with a superficial coverage.
When we had completed the 2 hour circuit, we walked down to the Ponte Vecchio which spans the River Arno. It is here that gold merchants built their house-shops, and it was packed with tourists craning their necks to view the billions of Euros of gold jewelry on display. No price tags were attached and the doors were all closed to the ogling tourists. Through these glass doors, we could see genuine buyers seated at elegant tables with sophisticated sales assistants enticing wealthy clients. Fascinating. I did manage to gain entry to one shop to view a pretty little simple gold bangle, but was not offered a seat. I even got to try it on and so glanced at the price tag of €380.00. I hummed and hahed for an appropriate time and then said it wasn't quite what I was looking for. Peter was relieved when I emerged.
Tomorrow we need to be at our pickup hotel by 8.00 am to join our Backroads tour of Tuscany.
Having realised how little of this city we could do at our pace we decided to target the Ufizzi Gallery in the morning and then do the red hop- on-hop- off bus tour which we'd already paid for before. The Gallery is just a 10 minute walk from us down by the River Arno. Our hotel concierge assured us we would not get in as we hadn't booked. But being Kiwis, we bowled along anyway. And got in. Sure we had to pay a bit extra for priority entry but it was that or give it a miss. The vastness of the collection was far, far beyond our experience. We gasped in awe for 2 1/2 hours and then needed a coffee. An overwhelming experience.
So then off to a bus-stop but had to wait 50 minutes for the next red bus to arrive. It's this sort of constraint that limits what you can achieve in a day. Our backs and feet were so just so relieved to be able to get a top deck seat and sit on it. The weather was overcast today which was so much better, allowing us to see much more. Also miraculously we picked a seat with sound and English commentary. Not a common occurence.
Florence , known as the jewel of the Renaissence, used to be the capital of Italy. It is a city of flowers and romantics. I was thrilled by the luxurious greenery , bright beds of flowers and vibrant birdsong. Of course we're in Tuscany now so think "Under the Tuscan Sun". Melodious music surrounds the traveler and lures her further into the hills above the thronging city. We wished we had time to alight at every one of the stops on offer but we must be content with a superficial coverage.
When we had completed the 2 hour circuit, we walked down to the Ponte Vecchio which spans the River Arno. It is here that gold merchants built their house-shops, and it was packed with tourists craning their necks to view the billions of Euros of gold jewelry on display. No price tags were attached and the doors were all closed to the ogling tourists. Through these glass doors, we could see genuine buyers seated at elegant tables with sophisticated sales assistants enticing wealthy clients. Fascinating. I did manage to gain entry to one shop to view a pretty little simple gold bangle, but was not offered a seat. I even got to try it on and so glanced at the price tag of €380.00. I hummed and hahed for an appropriate time and then said it wasn't quite what I was looking for. Peter was relieved when I emerged.
Tomorrow we need to be at our pickup hotel by 8.00 am to join our Backroads tour of Tuscany.
Wednesday 5 June 2019
Wednesday 5 June, Florence
We arrived at our Borghese Palace Art Hotel at 11.58 last night and were given such an enthusiastic welcome by the receptionist who gave us a map and showed us all the places we needed to visit in our 2 days in this fair city. What I actually wanted was a cup of tea, and bless her, off she trotted to get me that as well.
What a maze this place is. Per courtesy of Maps Me we found our way to the hop-on-hop-off terminal but it's about half an hour's walk from here. Perhaps we'll manage better tomorrow. It's really hazardous having hundreds of tourists wandering along the narrow cobblestone alleyways with their eyes fixed on their mobiles. We missed so much of the wonders en route to our bus but fell thankfully into the arms of a woman who sold us everything on offer, pushed us on to a bus and sent us on our way telling us to alight at Stop 8. I did ask Peter later what was at that particular stop but he was even more confused than I. It was too hot to sit upstairs so we trundled along downstairs, seeing I don't know what as the earphones didn't work. When we alighted, there before us was a magnificent panorama of the whole of Florence!!!! Oh my!!!!! Turn around and there was David (just a replica you understand) right behind us. It just took our breath away.
However it was too hot to stand in that sun for any longer, so we hopped on another bus and again stayed downstairs. Suddenly I heard Boboli Gardens announced so Peter found his earplugs pulled out and he was standing on a different footpath. I had read about these gardens in the flight magazine coming up here so wanted to go there. Well, here we were. Peter needed a cappuccino first so we found a delightful supplier and some incredible delicacies which fitted us to explore these gardens, wherever they were. I was able to ask an approachable young woman "Dove Boboli Gardens per favore?" , and off we strode. What a paradise they are, modelled on Italian Gardens from 16th century with a vast array of sculptures. These included a contemporary collection by Tony Cragg, providing a sharp contrast with all the Renaissance figures. Peter just enjoyed sitting in the shade in one of the arbors listening to the shrilling birdsong. Truly remarkable.
When we returned from the city circuit some time later we searched for the Leonardo Da Vinchi museum, tickets for which our guide had sold us in the morning. By then we were more able to lift our heads ( as well as our feet) and take in some of the sights. Eventually we came across the inconspicuous doorway of the museum, handed in our tickets, and were enthralled by this collection of Da Vinci's work. Again we stayed for some considerable time soaking it all in.
I don't think we can do Florence in 2 days.
We arrived at our Borghese Palace Art Hotel at 11.58 last night and were given such an enthusiastic welcome by the receptionist who gave us a map and showed us all the places we needed to visit in our 2 days in this fair city. What I actually wanted was a cup of tea, and bless her, off she trotted to get me that as well.
What a maze this place is. Per courtesy of Maps Me we found our way to the hop-on-hop-off terminal but it's about half an hour's walk from here. Perhaps we'll manage better tomorrow. It's really hazardous having hundreds of tourists wandering along the narrow cobblestone alleyways with their eyes fixed on their mobiles. We missed so much of the wonders en route to our bus but fell thankfully into the arms of a woman who sold us everything on offer, pushed us on to a bus and sent us on our way telling us to alight at Stop 8. I did ask Peter later what was at that particular stop but he was even more confused than I. It was too hot to sit upstairs so we trundled along downstairs, seeing I don't know what as the earphones didn't work. When we alighted, there before us was a magnificent panorama of the whole of Florence!!!! Oh my!!!!! Turn around and there was David (just a replica you understand) right behind us. It just took our breath away.
However it was too hot to stand in that sun for any longer, so we hopped on another bus and again stayed downstairs. Suddenly I heard Boboli Gardens announced so Peter found his earplugs pulled out and he was standing on a different footpath. I had read about these gardens in the flight magazine coming up here so wanted to go there. Well, here we were. Peter needed a cappuccino first so we found a delightful supplier and some incredible delicacies which fitted us to explore these gardens, wherever they were. I was able to ask an approachable young woman "Dove Boboli Gardens per favore?" , and off we strode. What a paradise they are, modelled on Italian Gardens from 16th century with a vast array of sculptures. These included a contemporary collection by Tony Cragg, providing a sharp contrast with all the Renaissance figures. Peter just enjoyed sitting in the shade in one of the arbors listening to the shrilling birdsong. Truly remarkable.
When we returned from the city circuit some time later we searched for the Leonardo Da Vinchi museum, tickets for which our guide had sold us in the morning. By then we were more able to lift our heads ( as well as our feet) and take in some of the sights. Eventually we came across the inconspicuous doorway of the museum, handed in our tickets, and were enthralled by this collection of Da Vinci's work. Again we stayed for some considerable time soaking it all in.
I don't think we can do Florence in 2 days.
Monday 3 June 2019
Monday 3 June - St Julian's
We have just completed our final day here. Tomorrow we fly to Rome then wait for an age for our flight to Florence. There will be no diary entry for that lot. We land just before midnight so by the time we settle in to our hotel, it will be past my bed-time. Mind you, there may be time to do some catching up on personal mail instead of this generic broadsheet.
So top of the list was the Malta classic car museum which is located right at the Northern most tip of Malta. This is where Echocabs comes to the rescue. It's comparable to our Uber except that they take cash only as payment. Dangerous for the driver I would have thought, but they don't seem to have a crime problem in this country
So 10 minutes after Peter ordered a car, up he turned to our front gate in his late Peugot and then whizzed us James Bond style to the northern point and then couldn't find said museum. He was a very cool young man with much testosterone and minimal English. However eventually he got us to the front entrance after driving us around many blocks. Kind of dampened his image somewhat.
The street frontage sported a replica Bugatti and 2 very glamorous Italian receptionists who welcomed us warmly. The next 2 hours melted away into one of the most magnificent collections of classic cars we have visited. The museum actually restores and sells them world wide so they are all in mint condition.
Once we finally emerged into daylight again there was nothing for it but to patronize the Sicilian caffe next door. I resisted the racotta delicacies right around Sicily but thought I should at least try one before we leave. Oh my, that's why Sicilians are the shape they are. I certainly don't need another, ever.
So another echocab materialized about 5 minutes after Peter ordered one, but this time with a charming sedate senior drive who gave us a fabulous return trip together with delightful conversation.
The afternoon was spent in a serious appreciation of the elusive St John's Co-cathedral of Valetta. No queue!!!!! We just walked straight in. Extraordinary. The building has been described as a unique, holy museum/ Baroque art gallery . It was built between 1573 and 1578 as a place for the Knights of St John to gather for communal worship. One of its greatest treasures is a huge painting of John the Baptist by Caravaggio. I photographed it but for those of you not on fb, you have missed nothing. It is beyond photography. We have had three attempts at experiencing this monumental edifice, and our persistence was well worth while.
Peter and I then parted company for the first time in 3 weeks. He had made arrangements to attend a Property Investors meeting and I to attend an Inner Wheel one. We had expected to meet up again at the end of the evening, but Peter's meeting was just a brief business committee meeting with no social frills, so he was able to join me to attend my dinner which was all frills. We met up with 4 delightful Maltese women who were just out for an evening's fun,and then 2 sisters of one of them joined us. The woman who will be the in-coming president is a major TV presenter with her own programme. What a personality!!! Actually each one of them was a character in her own way. They didn't seem interested in having any connection with anyone outside their club. However they were so gracious to Peter and me and paid for yet another sumptuous meal. We had a charming evening together. I doubt they will want to keep in contact. I was sitting next to the member who is the International service officer. She was not the person who eventually answered any of my emails and gave all the inter club material and NZ post cards I had taken to another member without so much as looking at them. She was born in Malta and not ever been out of Malta, nor as it turned out, remotely interested in anything but Malta. Very funny.
We have just completed our final day here. Tomorrow we fly to Rome then wait for an age for our flight to Florence. There will be no diary entry for that lot. We land just before midnight so by the time we settle in to our hotel, it will be past my bed-time. Mind you, there may be time to do some catching up on personal mail instead of this generic broadsheet.
So top of the list was the Malta classic car museum which is located right at the Northern most tip of Malta. This is where Echocabs comes to the rescue. It's comparable to our Uber except that they take cash only as payment. Dangerous for the driver I would have thought, but they don't seem to have a crime problem in this country
So 10 minutes after Peter ordered a car, up he turned to our front gate in his late Peugot and then whizzed us James Bond style to the northern point and then couldn't find said museum. He was a very cool young man with much testosterone and minimal English. However eventually he got us to the front entrance after driving us around many blocks. Kind of dampened his image somewhat.
The street frontage sported a replica Bugatti and 2 very glamorous Italian receptionists who welcomed us warmly. The next 2 hours melted away into one of the most magnificent collections of classic cars we have visited. The museum actually restores and sells them world wide so they are all in mint condition.
Once we finally emerged into daylight again there was nothing for it but to patronize the Sicilian caffe next door. I resisted the racotta delicacies right around Sicily but thought I should at least try one before we leave. Oh my, that's why Sicilians are the shape they are. I certainly don't need another, ever.
So another echocab materialized about 5 minutes after Peter ordered one, but this time with a charming sedate senior drive who gave us a fabulous return trip together with delightful conversation.
The afternoon was spent in a serious appreciation of the elusive St John's Co-cathedral of Valetta. No queue!!!!! We just walked straight in. Extraordinary. The building has been described as a unique, holy museum/ Baroque art gallery . It was built between 1573 and 1578 as a place for the Knights of St John to gather for communal worship. One of its greatest treasures is a huge painting of John the Baptist by Caravaggio. I photographed it but for those of you not on fb, you have missed nothing. It is beyond photography. We have had three attempts at experiencing this monumental edifice, and our persistence was well worth while.
Peter and I then parted company for the first time in 3 weeks. He had made arrangements to attend a Property Investors meeting and I to attend an Inner Wheel one. We had expected to meet up again at the end of the evening, but Peter's meeting was just a brief business committee meeting with no social frills, so he was able to join me to attend my dinner which was all frills. We met up with 4 delightful Maltese women who were just out for an evening's fun,and then 2 sisters of one of them joined us. The woman who will be the in-coming president is a major TV presenter with her own programme. What a personality!!! Actually each one of them was a character in her own way. They didn't seem interested in having any connection with anyone outside their club. However they were so gracious to Peter and me and paid for yet another sumptuous meal. We had a charming evening together. I doubt they will want to keep in contact. I was sitting next to the member who is the International service officer. She was not the person who eventually answered any of my emails and gave all the inter club material and NZ post cards I had taken to another member without so much as looking at them. She was born in Malta and not ever been out of Malta, nor as it turned out, remotely interested in anything but Malta. Very funny.
Sunday 2 June 2019
Sunday 2 June - St Julian's
The day started with that ominous dripping sound once I had finished the dishes. However, Peter was happy and content to ring our landlord (again), give him the soggy news and then lock the door to go out for the day. When we returned, there was a bucket placed in a strategic position. I guess Maltese plumbers double their hourly rate on Sundays just like Auckland ones do.
We have established a few friends at the bus station now. Our leaking flat is so well positioned just down the road and around the corner from the hub of the area. We've got it all sussed now, of course, and just swan off for the day. We've even learned how to jump the bus queues and elbow our way in. We don't need to really because we're so much older than anyone else, and they have to give up their front seats for the elderly. Such a good idea.
We found our way to Sliema where everyone hops off and catches whatever they hold tickets for. Ours
were for the Harbour.Cruise which was a freebie from our dear Josef for doing all our bookings through his company. It was a beautiful day, although still not particularly warm, and off we tootled in our pretty little boat. Our sort of cruise boat. An hour took us slowly through the three harbours. I accepted the glass of wine just like posh people have on cruises. We glided passed two gigantic cruise boats which dwarfed us completely, but of course we could squeeze into all the nooks and crannies of the coastline. Once again the commentary made it all so very interesting.
When we returned, Peter was in need of nourishment having missed out on the morning offering, so I took him to the Mark's & Spencer's cafe which put me in credit. It's an Ezibuy sort of a shop and again I could find a must-have in their sale. Nothing like a bit of retail therapy for a girl. Peter found himself a husband chair so plugged in his audiobook. All good.
All of that gave us the courage to travel by public transport for the remainder of our day. €1.50 got us sailing across to Valetta to explore on our own. Then when we'd clocked up 12,000 steps we spent another €1.50 to bus back to St Julians. So incredibly easy and cheap. The bus stops right at our corner!!
Only one more day to go now. We'll have yet another go at St John's Co-cathedral. There sure weren't any queues there today. Most places were shut. A day's respite from pesky tourists.
The day started with that ominous dripping sound once I had finished the dishes. However, Peter was happy and content to ring our landlord (again), give him the soggy news and then lock the door to go out for the day. When we returned, there was a bucket placed in a strategic position. I guess Maltese plumbers double their hourly rate on Sundays just like Auckland ones do.
We have established a few friends at the bus station now. Our leaking flat is so well positioned just down the road and around the corner from the hub of the area. We've got it all sussed now, of course, and just swan off for the day. We've even learned how to jump the bus queues and elbow our way in. We don't need to really because we're so much older than anyone else, and they have to give up their front seats for the elderly. Such a good idea.
We found our way to Sliema where everyone hops off and catches whatever they hold tickets for. Ours
were for the Harbour.Cruise which was a freebie from our dear Josef for doing all our bookings through his company. It was a beautiful day, although still not particularly warm, and off we tootled in our pretty little boat. Our sort of cruise boat. An hour took us slowly through the three harbours. I accepted the glass of wine just like posh people have on cruises. We glided passed two gigantic cruise boats which dwarfed us completely, but of course we could squeeze into all the nooks and crannies of the coastline. Once again the commentary made it all so very interesting.
When we returned, Peter was in need of nourishment having missed out on the morning offering, so I took him to the Mark's & Spencer's cafe which put me in credit. It's an Ezibuy sort of a shop and again I could find a must-have in their sale. Nothing like a bit of retail therapy for a girl. Peter found himself a husband chair so plugged in his audiobook. All good.
All of that gave us the courage to travel by public transport for the remainder of our day. €1.50 got us sailing across to Valetta to explore on our own. Then when we'd clocked up 12,000 steps we spent another €1.50 to bus back to St Julians. So incredibly easy and cheap. The bus stops right at our corner!!
Only one more day to go now. We'll have yet another go at St John's Co-cathedral. There sure weren't any queues there today. Most places were shut. A day's respite from pesky tourists.
Saturday 1 June 2019
Saturday 1 June - St Julian's
Today's goal was the North hop-on-hop-off bus, thus circumnavating Malta. There were 3 main must-see sites, but we really ran out of time to do the third properly.
First hop-off was the Aviation Museum which Peter will write up in every little detail with illustrations for you. I was happy to have a conversation with the Museum cat, but then I wandered into one hangar that was screening details of the Second Great Seige of Malta - a superb documentary which I could relate to after the enlightening day we had yesterday. Unfortunately I missed the start of it so only saw from the Valetta Harbiur entry of the SS Orion through to the Declaration of Independence in the 1970s. I couldn't go back to the start as our bus was due to arrive.
On we went to Mosta which lies at the heart of Malta. At its centre is a magnificent domed church completed in 1860. On 9 April 1942 the church was hit by a bomb dropped by a German. It pierced the dome and fell to the floor but lay dormant thereby saving the lives of the 300 devout worshippers there at the time. The German returned to Malta after the war to seek forgiveness. There is of course an entry fee to the church, and more to visit the bomb shelter. We declined the additional fee to climb the 76 steps to the dome. I am struggling now to climb the steps onto all the buses let alone 76 of them to see the view.
Back onto the trusty hop-on-hop-off bus to Mdina which is the old capital of Malta with its origins traced back to 1500 BC. Impressive palaces line its narrow streets. It is considered one of the finest examples of an ancient walled city.
There are many sights on offer there but we chose an epic adventure museum called The Knights of Malta which traced the brutal history of the Knights through to the present day. By the time we emerged from that breathtaking experience we got lost in the maze in our attempts to find the church. We got into one which was under restoration and plunged in gloom. I can't believe it was THE one but it was time to catch the next bus. I had to go into one of the many shops to ask for our way out of the city and onto the bus. We would have liked far more time there but we just can't do it all.
Today's goal was the North hop-on-hop-off bus, thus circumnavating Malta. There were 3 main must-see sites, but we really ran out of time to do the third properly.
First hop-off was the Aviation Museum which Peter will write up in every little detail with illustrations for you. I was happy to have a conversation with the Museum cat, but then I wandered into one hangar that was screening details of the Second Great Seige of Malta - a superb documentary which I could relate to after the enlightening day we had yesterday. Unfortunately I missed the start of it so only saw from the Valetta Harbiur entry of the SS Orion through to the Declaration of Independence in the 1970s. I couldn't go back to the start as our bus was due to arrive.
On we went to Mosta which lies at the heart of Malta. At its centre is a magnificent domed church completed in 1860. On 9 April 1942 the church was hit by a bomb dropped by a German. It pierced the dome and fell to the floor but lay dormant thereby saving the lives of the 300 devout worshippers there at the time. The German returned to Malta after the war to seek forgiveness. There is of course an entry fee to the church, and more to visit the bomb shelter. We declined the additional fee to climb the 76 steps to the dome. I am struggling now to climb the steps onto all the buses let alone 76 of them to see the view.
Back onto the trusty hop-on-hop-off bus to Mdina which is the old capital of Malta with its origins traced back to 1500 BC. Impressive palaces line its narrow streets. It is considered one of the finest examples of an ancient walled city.
There are many sights on offer there but we chose an epic adventure museum called The Knights of Malta which traced the brutal history of the Knights through to the present day. By the time we emerged from that breathtaking experience we got lost in the maze in our attempts to find the church. We got into one which was under restoration and plunged in gloom. I can't believe it was THE one but it was time to catch the next bus. I had to go into one of the many shops to ask for our way out of the city and onto the bus. We would have liked far more time there but we just can't do it all.
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