Friday 31 July 2015

31 July: The great Mall of the Emirates
After walking 17,445 steps from 11 - 6.15 we came home having bought nothing but a jar of marmalade which is a must-have for Peter's breakfast.
Friday is a public holiday in Dubai and when we started the great mall walk I thought that people wouldn't come out. By the time we tried to come home we couldn't get out because of the crowds,  and when we did it was just to take a breath and dive into a taxi with air conditioning.
I was told that Dubai is the place to go shopping, and so it is for multi-millionaires. For us it was the place to ogle. Actually,  truth to tell,  Milford Mall is hard to beat.

Thursday 30 July 2015

31 July: Dubai
We arrived here at 1.00am after flight delays. The airport is the 7th busiest in the world handling 70.4 million passengers last year and 2.37 million tons of cargo. Never have we experienced anything like the size of it. Peter did his 10,000 steps just getting out of it this morning.
Dubai is termed the shopping capital of the Middle East with over 70 shopping malls including the world's largest shopping centre, Dubai Mall. I found it interesting to discover that only 5% of the Emirates revenue comes from oil and gas. The oil reserves are expected to run out within 20 years. So they will be reliant on their real estate,  construction, trade and financial services to maintain their economy.  Tourism and gold are also major parts of their economy.
After looking at the cost of accommodation here we decided to go for the Airbnb option. We were greeted at the gated compound at 2am by a real Arab sheik who was most gracious considering the hour. We are very comfortably established in a large 3 roomed apartment with everything but a table and chairs. The owner had a new air con installed yesterday so that's a blessing. Even the water in the cold taps is hot. August is the hottest month of the year, and guess what, tomorrow is 1 August.
So in 38 C this morning, we have made our way up to the corner dairy for bread and milk. Sorry Peter,  no marmalade. I'll put a couple of photos on FB so you can see where we are, then off shopping. Might be writing another blog tonight methinks. Never mind. Makes up for skipping one yesterday.

Wednesday 29 July 2015

29 July: Last day in Europe
After Peter's 20,000 steps in search of old planes yesterday we thought it wise to confine ourselves to the hop-on-hop-off adventure on the 3 lines around Budapest. Those of you on FB will have seen various photos of different examples of architecture at this stage of the city's reconstruction. The day started cold and overcast and deteriorated as it wore on, so we hopped off. Peter decided to have a blob out afternoon. We have a big day tomorrow flying to Dubai arriving there at midnight then having to get ourselves to yet another Airbnb.
That gave me a perfect opportunity to skive off into the long tourist street behind us here. Just one of the things I found was an organ recital at St Michael's Church. Yes I thought, let's go to that. So when he woke up Peter found himself visiting yet another incredible old church first built in 1230. It has the all too familiar history of buildings throughout Hungary and has been under restoration since 1999. I only wish I had thought to take my camera. The concert was an hour long ending with Bach's Tocatta & Fugue in D Minor. As we were coming out I found Peter trying to buy a CD of it from someone in the Church.  Twenty years on and I've just discovered Peter's love of organ music. Fortunately I rescued him before he bought a disk. I have just that in my cabinet at home and play it at full volume when he goes out. Now I can start playing it when he's home.
What better way to end the day than a bottle of wine in an Italian restaurant.
Goodbye Budapest. It's been great discovering you.  😊

Tuesday 28 July 2015

28 July: Farewell Avalon with its Intercontinental Hotel - Hello Caisley/Lewis with their Airbnb.
I have sent through 2 FB postings today because the day was truly split in two. We checked out of the decadence of the hotel Avalon shouted us and then found our way to the St Stephen's Cathedral which was started in 1851 and finished in 1861. The dome was completed in 1889. The interior was totally breathtaking. Mind you, my breath is already taken by all the other phenomenal European cathedrals we have been introduced to.
As we continued wandering we discovered the Aria Hotel which is obviously for a different socioeconomic bracket from us. However I did my charming smile thing and the guard at the door escorted me into the foyer to take a photo. The carpet was woven as a piano keyboard leading to a central feature of a vertical digital keyboard that played by itself with the keys moving. Budapest is undergoing a comprehensive rebuild after its liberation from Communism, and the new creations are beyond description.  You really must book yourself to visit Budapest in  a couple of years. I'm sure it will rival Paris and Prague.
After coffee and the famed Ersterhaus cake, we caught a taxi to our Airbnb which is in Old Buda by yet another beautiful town square,  souvenir shops and the #2 tram which appears to be free. Our Irish host was waiting for us and carried our 50kg of luggage up the stairs for us. Charming guy - as the Irish are.
Peter needed to go to the Budapest Technical Museum but I found I did not. So I slept soundly while Peter walked 20,000 steps to find the Museum is shut for renovations until 2018. He got 1 photo of 1 Russian bi-plane.

Tonight was our 20th anniversary and we thought it might be fun to do a Danube River dinner and cruise that was longer than the 10 minute one we had 12 days ago. This one was 2 hours!!!! Oh my, did we enjoy every one of those 120 Mins. We saw our Avalon Vista tied up at the wharf so she's been repaired. All she wants now is some water to cruise in. 😂

Monday 27 July 2015

27 July: Budapest (2)
Today Avalon offered us a coach trip into surrounding countryside. 60% of Hungary is totally flat agricultural land producing sunflowers, paprika, acacia trees for honey and wines. The feature of acacia honey is that it does not crystalise,  but they also produce chestnut honey and linden tree honey. Hungary is dominated by the Volga and Danube Rivers. The latter floods regularly (not this week though).The biggest flood recorded was in 2013. Cruises couldn't run then either because the boats couldn't fit under the bridges.
Our first port of call was at Esztergom which used to be the capital of Hungary.  This is the Suzuki manufacturing and Volkswagen Centre. It is dominated by the Catholic religion and is famous for its Basilica built in the 19th century overlooking the Danube.
We then drove on to Visegrad which was the royal seat of Hungary in 12 th century. In 1335 it was the venue for the royal congress of Hungary, Slovakia and Poland to find a trade route to circumnavigate Vienna which was demanding extortionate taxes. Those 3 countries still hold annual conferences to reinforce alliance.
We were greeted by a band of Knights of the Order of St George who played a fanfare and then led us to the Solomon Tower for bulls' blood wine (Peter and I went for the Apple juice) before the tournament.  This whole area was restored in 1980 and is now used for international entertainment. After the tournament Peter tried his hand at several of the games but found them a tad harder than they looked.
This was followed by a magnificent medieval banquet. All so much fun!
Most of us slept coming back to our hotel later in the afternoon by which time it was raining!!!! The temperature had dropped 20 degrees also. Very good for some fleeting shopping before dinner.

Sunday 26 July 2015

26 July: Vienna - Budapest
How very sad we were to be waving farewell to Vienna in Austria and facing the 2 1/2 hour drive to Budapest in Hungary. Legend has it that the mythical eagle, the Turul led people from the Middle East to this area about 1200 years ago. Those Turkish people were illiterate, had no legal system and practised polygamy with their hareems. However in order to be accepted here they were forced by the sword into Christianity and monogamy.
Hungary has a population of 10 million people today and is gradually recovering economically thus able to rebuild its city. There are 3 parts to the city: Old Buda and Buda are built on the hills and peopled by the wealthy; Pest (pronounced pesht) is on the plains  on the other side of the Danube and peopled by the workers.  It was in 1849 that the Chain Bridge was built, thus creating one city of Budapest.  There have since been anothrr 5 bridges across the Danube all of which were destroyed in WWII, but now they are restored to their former glory.  One of their primary products is paprika which acts as a preservative.
Our group has had to be split into 3 which is very sad as we have lost contact with the friends we had made who are at the Hilton in Buda. We are down in the Intercontinental in Pest by the river. After a sumptuous lunch our bus took us on a tour of the entire city. Tonight we have repeated that tour but turned it into a fairy tale. It all looks like a movie set. Apparently storms are raging out west from here. It has been pouring with rain in Switzerland for 4 days thus recovering the water level of the Rhine so those cruises are able to go ahead. However there is no sign of rain here and the Danube is out of access.
Tomorrow we are scheduled to board our coach at 8.30 am and go to the Visegrad Medieval Tournament with lunch. So much food and so little sleep!!!! 😂

Saturday 25 July 2015

25 July: Last waltz in Vienna
At 8.30 am our coaches pulled out en route to the southern sector of the Venetian Woods. After an hour's enchanting drive we arrived at the Monastery of Heiligenkteutz (Holy Cross) which has been inhabited by the Cistertian Order since 1133. It lies in the heart of the Woods and currently houses 83 monks who have made a musical recording which has sold 2 million copies and overtaken Madonna. The Medieval architecture was breath-taking. I have only put a couple of photos on FB because the choice was just too difficult.
We then drove on to Baden which means a little town for bathing. This dates back to Roman times. They made use of the
sulphorus hot springs for underfloor heating. We drove past the house in which Schubert gained the inspiration for his songs "Winter Journey" from the lime trees we saw growing in the garden. For most of us the highlight was the tour through one of the 88 houses Beethoven lived in. You'll see his harpsichord and very untidy desk on FB. It was in this house that he composed his 9th symphony.
After a magnificent lunch provided by a local restaurant we drove back to our Hilton hotel.
Before we left on this memorable tour daughter-in-law Stephanie instructed us to visit the famous chocolate shop in Vienna. At that stage we thought we would only be in Vienna overnight so we didn't pay attention.  With the extraordinary change of plans we needed further directions so Mark said it was by the Opera House. We had a few hours spare before our Viennese concert,  so we hopped on a bus. Fortunately we had bought a 2day ticket so off we went in search of one Opera House. Hummmm. Having found it we thought we'd better look at it so we finished up doing a grand conducted tour right through! ! What a bonus that was! 🙌

However we were really searching for this chocolate shop, so after we'd toured this incredible building which was nearly entirely destroyed at the end of WWII and which now houses 2,300 people for their 65 performances,  we set out in earnest for  this shop.
Peter found it. He has a very long nose for a good chocolate. You'll see his fully restored smile on FB. After all that of course, we absolutely HAD to have an iced chocolate in the adjacent cafe. Well, if you ever want the ultimate iced chocolate,  that's where you'll find it.
Back to the hotel, change for dinner,  and then board the coaches again to attend the Royal Waltz Concert at the Museum of Natural History. We were just spell-bound listening to the tunes of the Strauss family waltzes and polkas interspersed with bursts of Mozart's temper. A soprano and baritone plus two dancers added variety to the 8 member orchestra.  All beyond description.

Back to the hotel and pack to have our bags  ready for a 6 am pickup to go to Budapest.

Friday 24 July 2015

25 July: Vienna
This morning was the big "explore Vienna in a morning" opportunity. The hop-on-hop-off bus seemed the best means of sweeping the city. There are 3 circuits but we knew we only had the one shot so just stayed on the red inner city circuit.
I have posted a photo of the lack of water in the river on FB and apparently rivers all over Europe look just like that. Very few cruises are running so nearly all tours are by coach. Just imagine the logistical nightmare of having to acquire not only hundreds of extra coaches but also land accommodation.
Because of the promised refund of our tour (due to the fire) Peter suggested we really splash out and do a half hour horse carriage ride. What a thrill that was. It gave us a slow closeup peek at the overwhelming beauty of central Vienna. How could it excell beyond Prague, Salzburg and Passau? Easily. Photos just do not capture it because you can't fit buildings of that magnitude into the photo frame. I've tried but I gave up.
Then back to the bus to finish the circuit. We now have to curtail our activities a) because of Peter and b) because of the seering heat. So 1 pm we had to bale out. Peter needed to rest and I needed to get my hair done because it's Friday. I'm sure you'll be impressed by the photo of my model of a hairdresser. What a beauty!!!!
So what to do for the rest of the afternoon?  You guessed it. Go shopping! 😃 One of the women who assisted in our fire trauma was looking for a shopping mate and knew this street. Her husband needed an afternoon nap too, so we girls hit town. Well,  one block of the aforementioned street actually.
The only reason we came back at all was to wake the guys up to get changed for dinner. Not any old dinner but a coach ride to the Marchfelderhof Imperial Dinner. This county inn was established in the 17th century and boggled our minds once more. The whole exterior was illuminated and an Austrian band was playing to greet us. A red carpet was rolled out right across the street and each of us was greeted like royalty. Inside was absolutely packed with an eclectic mix of memorabilia collected over the 4 centuries. There was no space anywhere on the floor, walls or ceilings of this vast multi-roomed country Inn.  The banquet was divine and we were entertained by brilliant Viennese musicians. Yet another extraordinary experience.
Tomorrow we board the coach at 8.30 to go for a trip to the Vienna woods.

Thursday 23 July 2015

23 July: Passau - Vienna
What a delight it was to wake at 6.30 and sit in our window watching the traffic on the Danube in the cool of the morning. So many very long barges gliding past effortlessly and silently. Very special.
During the night I was aware of thunderstorms and sure enough this morning we had to breakfast in the restaurant rather than on the picturesque patio where we had dined last evening. Everything was very wet. How miraculous!
Our minibus arrived at 10 am as promised and away we sped on the 2 1/2 hour journey on the autobahn to Vienna. 😊
Unfortunately we could not see a lot because of the huge screens on the boundaries. We arrived in the city right on the quoted time frame but then spent 3/4 hour while the driver tried to find the Hilton. His GPS gave continuous instructions but up hill and down dale and into streets blocked by reconstruction. In the end he found the Hilton and then some time later found the driveway entrance. We arrived just as they were clearing lunch but managed to acquire some beautiful food. We could not check in because Avalon had not included us in their booking. 😥
HOWEVER
There was a man from Avalon!!!!! Our first.
After some considerable time he managed to find us a huge room 10 floors up and our luggage all arrived safely.
But wait, there's more.
We were taken to another man who had been flown in from Switzerland to listen to our story.  He was a Globus consultant whose job it was to interview each passenger and record their story. Peter and I were of particular interest because of our hospitalization and this guy was sitting waiting for us. The others had come in yesterday of course

It turns out that most of the cruises in Europe have been cancelled because of the lack of water. Alternative bus tours have been arranged. The point of difference with ours was the fire and subsequent chaos. We have just received a full letter of apology from Avalon and a promise of a full refund of all costs of the tour. So apparently this particular cloud does have a silver lining. We not only get this cash reimbursement but also the remaining 5 days free. So if you want a free holiday in Vienna, I can tell you how to get one. 😂

Wednesday 22 July 2015

21 July: Gutentag Nuremberg
Because of the European heat wave and drought the Danube is evaporating so we boarded our coach at 8.00 am and drove in 35 C heat to Nuremberg and then arrived at Passau at 6.00 pm to board our boat-of-our-dreams (see the Avalon ad on tv).
We are greatly affected by the heat wave so exciting walking trips are just beyond most of us. However we did do the Fortress trip and listen to the history dating from 1050. Nuremberg was 90% destroyed in WWII but the impenetrable fortress remained in tact. The city rebuild started in 1962 and I have put some of the glorious results on FB.
We were held up for about an hour with Auckland type traffic problems which, of course affected the coach air conditioning.
You can just picture our excitement when we finally boarded the magnificent river cruiser, were allocated our sumptuous cabins and invited to sit down for a delightful meal at 8.00. Halfway through we actually started to move, the landscape sliding doors were opened, the wine flowed and we began to relax.
The flickering lights added to the magic and at times they went off altogether.  Such fun!
Then came the captain's announcement that we were to return to our cabins and bring all bags to the main deck. Still they kept filling the champagne glasses and the band played on. By midnight we were all ashore with our luggage. (I so wish I had packed as Margriet and Josephine had told me). The ship was about to catch fire because of an electrical fault so we were put back on coaches and distributed randomly at any hotels with spare beds. Remember there's 160 of us. I got to my hotel at 3am.
22 July: The end of the golden trip.
Amid absolute hysteria it was announced today once we were gathered together on the deck of another cruise boat that our trip had been cancelled and our money would be refunded. Believe me, it was the end of the world for many of the guests. I had settled in with 6 rational unemotional people who tried to remove themselves from the raging insanity.
To cut a very long story very short, Peter and I are in a beautiful Passau hotel right on the bank of what's left of the Danube and I've given Peter a sleeping pill and am about to take one myself.
What will tomorrow bring?

Monday 20 July 2015

20 July: Nashledanou Prague
So the dream has come to an end. Tomorrow we board a coach at 8.00 am and drive in search of the Danube which has evaporated in the heatwave. I wonder if they'll offer us a cycle tour instead. I don't care really so long as they drive along behind with our bags.
I have thoroughly enjoyed writing to you all each evening but am aware that whatever they offer us for the next week just may not include wifi connection. So I may disappear into a black hole.

Today offered a visit to Castle Melnik with wine tasting at 9.00 am. The castle, on the Elba River, prides itself on its cellars which were established in the 14th century. We spent about an hour down in the candle-lit caves sampling 6 different wines balanced with black bread and a variety of cheeses. Peter took some excellent photos on his camera but I didn't attempt it. The party then climbed back up above ground and on up the 52 steps into the castle to ogle the 8 rooms some of which were furnished.
Those of you on FB will have seen my photo of the statue of St Florean who died in 304 AD and was the patron saint of fire. This was a treasure for my daughter-in-law Vicki who serves on the Ministerial Fire Board.

This evening there was another optional tour to the Chapel of Mirrors for an hour's concert of classical organ, piano, flute, violin, tenor, soprano. It opened with Bach's Prelude played on the very same pipe organ Mozart played. And then it went up from there. I do not attend musical concerts so I have nothing to compare this with but the audience responded with a standing ovation demanding encores, so it was not just me who was totally awed by the splendour of the performances. I did not know a flute was capable of producing such magnificent harmonies.
The evening was capped by a stroll back via the illuminated Charles Bridge and castle plus a new moon. There is yet another cathedral by Charles Bridge and we wandered up the steps just as the keeper was locking the great doors for the night. I put on my woe begone face and told her we had come all the way from New Zealand to see inside. That worked. 😁 she opened one door just a China and gave us a fully escorted private tour all in Czech.  I did pick up the St Francis of AssisI bit though. I have no further adjectives remaining in my vocabulary to describe the beauty of the art work. I'm sure many of you are familiar with the spectacle so don't need my adjectives at all.
I'll be leaving my heart here in Prague. 😊

Sunday 19 July 2015

19 July: Prague with tour group
We enjoyed a most sumptuous breakfast (Inc gluten free bread Madame!!) in this palatial hotel and were obediently waiting at the bus to be transported to the Hrad Castle on the hill. All we had to do was sit there and follow our leader. No thinking required 😃 The splendid castle was founded in the 9th century by Good King Wenceslas (who wasn't particularly good).
Prague calls itself the city of gold with 17 bridges, 7 hills and 7 rivers.
We donned our voice boxes which allow us to hear our tour guide without having to cling to her elbow.  A brilliant invention that one. Those of you on Facebook will be able to flick through a selection of photos of this huge castle which was a seething mass of tourists by the time we had finished.
Then we were driven back to our hotel to start our walking tour. Great to be led through the streets we had already trodden and be given so much of the history of the buildings. We came into the Square  and secured our position in front of the famous old clock where everyone's pockets are picked while they watch the wonderful mechanics of the clockwork figures when the clock strikes on the hour. I was so proud of myself getting some good photos while noone stole my raincoat or my drink bottle which were all I'd taken. The tour ended there so we immediately set about getting lost as we tried to make our way to Charles Bridge. But we saw so much more as we twisted and turned through the quaint alleyways. Stumbled across a brilliant cafe in a brick wall at the end of one alleyway.  There were no customers but fabulous food and a gorgeous young chap who spoke good American and made iced coffee by putting pistachio ice cream into to a cappuccino.
Eventually we did get to the must-see Charles Bridge and dutifully crossed it in a howling gale just as the many vendors were packing up their wares away from the up-coming storm.
We actually got back to our hotel while the storm went somewhere else. It obviously got lost.
Tonight we have booked for a Czech and Slovak traditional folklore show with dinner. Sounds like fun doesn't it. At least by now Peter can enjoy this entertainment. We met a couple from Howick last night and the wife had missed half their tour because of this bug. She was nothing like as ill as Peter was but then she's a woman. It's the men it's felling.

Saturday 18 July 2015

18 July: Prague
Today Peter needed to inspect the Prague Aviation Museum so I bundled him into a taxi, waved him goodbye and started to explore. Those of you on Facebook will see some of the sights that enthralled me. The embellishments of the buildings is something way beyond anything I've experienced.
I had determined to do a horse and carriage circuit but wanted to share a carriage (and cost). Niet! However I saw another woman on her own and instantly befriended her. She was Russian so we jumped on board together and clopped our way around the tourist block. When we returned the Central square was bursting with music and festivity. Add to that a wedding causing the cathedral carillion to add its tribute and you'll be able to envisage the joyous atmosphere. One riotous party!!!
Peter rang in the afternoon having soaked up the thrill of old aircraft but unable to get home. So I ordered a taxi from our hotel to go and rescue him. That worked. You can solve anything if you throw enough Czech crowns at it.
In my wanderings I had found our Avalon organisers and collected our initial documentation. The whole group of 160 tourists met at 6.00 for an introductory briefing. We sat in the front row in order to see and hear - next to a couple from Howick! Unbelievable isn't it. Away, we go at 8.30 tomorrow morning with a tour of the castle. I was disappointed that 3 of the days of our cruise were spent land-locked in Prague. However there are optional tours offered morning, noon and night for further Czech crowns so we'll finish up knowing far more about Prague than we discovered about Salzburg. We are actually looking forward to being looked after again and having someone else do our thinking for 11 days.

Friday 17 July 2015

17 July (2): Prague
What a struggle to get here!!! It seemed such a good idea to do this leg by train. BUT the practicality is worlds away. It turned out that the journey was in 2 bites. Salzburg to Linz by a streamlined super fast train with silver service lasted just over an hour. It was actually running 15 Mins late which left us 16 Mins to get to the other end of Linz platform up two flights of steps (no lifts). Peter had to make 2 trips with our rock-filled luggage and then our train was the far one and 1st class in the middle. Got there as the guard was blowing his whistle and we lay in a state of total collapse. This was a much shorter distance but it was the mail train which stopped at every station. In the last hour of the 5 hour trip a trolley dolly came round selling chips and cold drinks.
YES 😀
Out of the train at Prague down a long alleyway into a taxi who drove us
frenetically into the city centre waving his arms around telling us all about the sights in whatever language they speak here. He tipped us out at the magnificent Intercontinental entrance where we were greeted like royalty and shown to our suite.
YES 😀
This part of our trip has cost us more than all the rest put together.  We have come in one night ahead of the tour just to sort ourselves out. Has that turned out to be a good idea?
YES 😀
Peter has tracked down the Prague Aviation Museum. I have tracked down a hairdresser. Guess who's doing what tomorrow.
YES 😀
Those of you who are on FB will see an initial selection of photos as we wandered down a street for a meal. I am quite sure you'll be swamped in photos tomorrow.
17 July: on train Salzburg  - Prague
So much to tell you. We have been offline for 24 hours now so I missed writing up our 16 July adventures which culminated in our catching the wrong #21 bus and yodeling our way up into the mountains 8 km out of Salzburg. The bus driver was astonished to find us still with him in the alpine forest and drove us back to town an hour later.
The Austrians are hilariously bad-tempered. We long for our beloved Irish. We have been shouted at for 3 days and one woman even stamped her foot at me as well as the shout. Most of their signs have exclamation marks after them and that's exactly how they communicate. However the taxi driver this morning commented on the rocks in our bags and charged us extra.

Will try to stay in touch when I get a connection

Wednesday 15 July 2015

15 July: Salzburg
Salzburg is a city in Austria of 150,000 people. It was so named because of its salt mines. We are in an outer suburb where there is no sign of life at all. Cars are parked but there's not a sound. We have a complete downstairs apartment to ourselves so we slept very soundly. Then off to the supermarket to search for breakfast food. I find I have absolutely no German at all. I'm not even sure they speak German. So we had to guess from the pictures on the packets. Anyway, it all turned out to be edible. Quite safe with a banana and I found a green zesprI with a New Zealand sticker.
We are a short walk to a bus stop but decided to walk to town to find our way. With only a few wrong turns we came to the Salzach River with its picturesque bridges. Our plan was to find a hop on hop off bus but of course because all the signage is completely incomprehensible we were just bumbling around. Suddenly a bus pulled up behind us so I hopped on. YES!!!  For €16 each we had wheels - all day 😃
So we drove right round unable to sort any of it out to such an extent that lunch was the only solution. If you want gluten free, don't come to Salzburg. Peter was in 7th heaven of course.  The diet of his dreams.
Refreshed we hopped back on another bus, managed to get front seats, and were just the experts second time around. We even knew to disembark by the Mozart Bridge and cross it to the Mozart Plaza which is the tourist draw card. Fortunately we were there before all the tourist coaches came in. Next week there is an international music festival here so it will be a repeat of our Versailles. We now know what "crowd" means in European terms.
Peter was exhausted with the heat (YAY,  the first time in this summer holiday ) so I had to leave him to recover while I did the shops. 😄😃😁😀😊☺
As the heat of the day was wearing off, the tourists were pouring in. A fine time to withdraw to a picturesque Austrian restaurant upstairs away from the tour groups. And THERE I discovered what schnitzel is really like. Oh my!!! I greatly amused the gorgeous waitress and we had a wonderful evening.
Aha, now to get home. Peter decided he didn't want to walk all that way so applied his now fully restored brain to catching a bus which was free because of our other bus ticket. I just trailed along behind - and here we are safely tucked up in our chalet with Peter happily eating the Mozart balls I bought him for being my tour guide.

Tuesday 14 July 2015

14 July: Bastille Day - Salzburg
I must admit I had no appreciation of the deep significance of this celebration for the French. Sure I've seen Les Miserables and love the songs, but seeing the preparations, happening upon the horses moving in dressed in their full regalia, and then being woken by the military rolling in, and early risers with their flags to the ready was real. The hotel had warned us to get out before Place de la Concord was locked off so we shot out like rabbits.
We stumbled around Paris Est and were very thankful that we had all this extra time to ascertain how to catch a train. It all became extremely crowded. We had booked 1st class thank goodness so were on the top deck for the 3 hour trip to Stuttgart.  Then we had to struggle off and find a different train to Salzburg.  We absolutely definitely had excess luggage. However, we made it but into the wrong carriage. It was a great relief when the guard told us to shift half an hour into the trip. We are certainly not 2nd class passengers. There is a huge difference. Very interesting seeing the countryside instead of flying over it.

Much more to this story but Peter has now woken up and wants to go shopping for breakfast in our little village in Salzburg.  There'll be some photos for you today for sure.

Monday 13 July 2015

13 July: Last day in Paris
19,000 steps on Peter's pedometer was what it took to cover Paris knocking off a city tour, the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Louvre. So much to share with you, but fortunately many of you know the city much better than I so I'll turn my attention to leaving Paris on Bastille Day.

Sunday 12 July 2015

12 July: Versailles
Due to it being the morning after the night before, our day started at 11.30 when we met my friend Mark who extended our horizons considerably by leading us down our familiar road but then turning left. To date we have gone straight ahead into the Seine,  turned right into Rue de Something. So we were in a whole new zone by turning left from Place de la Concord. The really exciting feature of this Rue was that we experienced authentic French crepes. MagnifiquE
So from the Joan of Arc statue we boarded our coach bound for Versailles. This was a 20 minute drive opening up new vistas.
When we reached this tourist hot spot we had to find a wee parking space between hundreds of other coaches. Never have we seen so many coaches gathered together. Our group comprised English and Italians with 2 guides. Our English one has been guiding for 5 years; the other, 35 years.
I was only doing this trip because of Peter. I had done Versailles in 1993 in the middle of winter with my son Mark, his wife Stephanie and my school friend, Anne. So I knew all about it. But I felt Peter should have a stroll around.
In the tourist season, Versailles is visited by 25 - 30,000 people per day. Shall I repeat that for you? PER DAY. Well on the Sunday afternoon before Bastille Day we did the 30,000 trip. What an experience. Josephine, I need you to give me the word for hornswaggled. (ing actually. I'm having a raging battle getting my smartphone to type what I want it to type)
The gardens were new for me as they were shut for my winter trip. We got to see about three fountains playing yesterday. That was  because of the drought. Mercifully it was overcast and even tried to rain for us. The week before it had been scorching and I'm sure the 2 hour trot around the gardens would have been taxing.
Then it came to the inside bit. Well, did I see anything? Yes of course. Peter's back. Occasionally I looked up at a ceiling which I could glimpse between others' heads (remember how vertically challenged I am) but that was my lot really. Peter, being taller managed to click his camera occasionally, but really we'll have to Google it when we get home. Same as the Cliffs of Moher.
We had made plans for the evening but merely stopped at the first cafe after we disembarked from our coach, knocked off a bottle of wine accompanied by chook and mash, and hobbled home.

11 July: Moulin Rouge
I bought tickets for this extravaganza for Peter for Valentines Day, but he had to wait until last night for the treat.
We taxied to the red light district at 9 pm to soak up the atmosphere before we went to the theatre at 10.30. More Parisian buzz than we'd seen to date but not at all crowded. Fair enough. The 9 pm show would be far more popular. So wandered around, had a sorbet to cool us down, then Peter had a coffee to warm him up. Discovered shops and shops of touristy souvenirs. At 10.30, wandered out into the main street to go into the theatre to find the whole square absolutely thronging with revelers.  Not a chance of entering the theatre. Join the queue - all the way to the end of the block we had just traveled,  round the corner and way down that street. The queue didn't even start to move until 10.50 and we got into the theatre at 11.15. Miraculously we got good seats on a raised tier block of tables with two other Australian couples. Our bucket of champagne was duly delivered and the show started right on the dot of 11.30pm.
I can't even start to describe the magnificence of the staging,  lighting, costuming, music, skill level and awe-inspiring brilliance of the 1 1/2 hour international spectacle. Just make a diary entry that you MUST go next time you come to Paris. It will eclipse all else you have seen. When the show ended at 1.30 am, we simply caught one of the waiting taxis and were driven home by 2.00.
11 July: Paris
First things first. Ou est le supermarket? Not sur le pont d'avignon. But we got there in the end.
Then
L'Orange for the Simcard Europe
Then
Le Metro ligne douze to Porte de la Chappelle
Then
Bus # 350 to Musee de l'Air
Stunning!  The most difficult part was getting a salad with cafe au lait.  Non Madame. Apple tarte with cafe au lait.
Peter gave up and had a fanta. I found a man, chatted him up, talked about Les All Blacks and got a cup of coffee.
Then
Many buildings of old planes. Peter in muck.
Then
had to reverse the whole process. Missed bus #350 but found supplier of gin & tonic. Caught the next bus #350 an hour later
Then
Metro ligne douze
Then
Hotel Waldorf Madeleine
YAY!!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Met my friend Mark who came from London to spend a weekend with us in Paris.
Had dinner with him in a tiny pizza place he had found around the corner. ALL cafes around us were closed!!!! At 7pm. On a Saturday night. 😨😨😨😨 Can you believe that?
Then started the Moulin Rouge experience which will have to be the next blog

Friday 10 July 2015

10 July: Dublin - Paris
Very little to relate today. And no FB photos.
Left our hotel in Dublin at 6.30 am and arrived in Paris at 1.30 local time after a very smooth flight of 1 hr 15 Mins. Then major hassle of connecting with our booked pick-up shuttle who could not find our hotel. So we got in at 4.00 PM suffering from lack of food and coffee.
Interesting signs on airport walls warning of Middle East Respiratory Syndrome.  I bet that's what has affected Peter.
we plan to visit Musee de l'air tomorrow so that might pick him up.
We'll see. At least it's warmer here.

Thursday 9 July 2015

9 July: Athlone - Dublin
We stumbled on Athlone by sheer chance just to break the journey back to Dublin. It seemed to be in the middle of the island. Got hopelessly lost finding it and then making our way around it and then getting out of it again. Peter needed what we hope will be his last supply of medication. The doctor took pity on us and prescribed a repeat to get us across Europe. It's all been difficult enough in English let alone keeping him breathing in a foreign language. Then on to the obligatory Friday hairdo, and then off to yet another Celtic ruin.
Well,  blow me, this was no ordinary ruin. It was the remains of a monastery set up by St Ciaran (Kerryn) in the 5th century on the River Shannon at the crossroads of the centre of Ireland at a place called Clonmacnoise. It was a comprehensive enterprise based on Irish Catholic Christianity and a much sought- after centre of academic and skilled craft training. It was the pinnacle of training for scribes during 8th - 10th centuries. St Ciaran himself died aged 33 of the yellow plague and his High Cross has been restored and is enshrined now (see FB photo). Every year on 14 September there is a pilgrimage to Clonmacnoise to commemorate St Ciaran's Day. People have been coming for 1400 years. Various attacks were made on the monastic centre by folk such as the Vikings, but the whole was totally destroyed by the English garrisons in 1552. And there it stands today as a major tourist centre. About 6 coach loads of Germans come every day as it is particularly significant to them. And we just stumbled upon what we now regard as the most impressive relic of Irish history.

So we returned to the primary route across Ireland, the M6, and drove past Horseleap  Ballinabrackey  Bungalow  Kinegad
Maynooth  Leixlip to the chaos of  Dublin where after many wrong turns Peter got the car back to Avis in pristine condition after having driven 1000km through Ireland.  We headed straight for the bar when we got to our airport hotel.

Wednesday 8 July 2015

8 July: Lisdooonvarna - Athlone via Clifden (way too much in one day)
We donned full merino garb and had raincoats to the ready, after yesterday's disaster. However did not use windscreen wipers at all and only donned raincoats to protect us from the Arctic blast. 😊
Peter's goal was to drive to Clifden where Alcock and Brown landed their Viny Vickers bi-plane after the first trans-Atlantic flight in 1919. This proved to be a taxing trip from 9 am to 7pm. However he achieved it and is ecstatic!
We drove through the Burren which is comparable to our Ida Valley. I wanted stone walls for Josephine but it was challenging to find any spot where Peter could pull off for me to take the perfect photos. The lanes are just 2 cars wide so stopping for photos is not an option. However you'll see the best of what I managed on FB. These dry walls are crafted with no cement so demonstrate a remarkable skill.
The stoney landscape proved the cruel desolation of the Irish when the British forced them to the west in the 19th century. There is no soil so absolutely nothing would grow and thousands of Irish starved to death.
Galway Bay was spectacular. Great that the mist lifted so we could see it. We then veered left into County Connemara. Everywhere in Ireland's countryside are roadside stalls selling potatoes and strawberries. Nothing else. Just huge sacks of potatoes and boxes of beautiful strawberries.
We stopped at Kinvara for coffee (see FB) Barbara you'll be relieved to know I did not have the last slice of cake. Just took the photo of Irish baking. Everything comes with cream. There is no famine in Ireland now, I can assure you. We were pleased to see smoke coming from all the chimneys so it wasn't just us feeling the cold.
We then settled down seriously for the aforementioned Clifden,  so just passed through Drimnahoon  Oughterard   and
Maamcross which marked the entry to the Connemara National Park. This was untamed Scottish loch country.  Then we reached Letterfrack! (This is all specially for you Lois)
When we finally made it to Clifden, Peter turned on mapsme and commenced the hunt for the landing site. I thought that near enough was good enough but I was wrong. We had to find the correct bog! So much trial and such tedious error. But in the end despite the annoyance of the extraordinary sheep who owned the peninsular, we reached the memorial. The car is a little the worse for wear I'm ashamed to say, but Peter is the best he's been since we've been in the country.

At 3.30pm we had lunch at the Grand Alcock and Brown hotel to the accompaniment of the Irish Tenors.
We then turned for the long drive back through Galway and on another hour to the Athlone B&B we booked last night.
What a day, but it is great to have Peter smiling again.
Our last day in Ireland tomorrow.

Tuesday 7 July 2015

7 July: Lisdooonvarna ( think the Burren)
The day dawned bright and clear and we set off for Tarbert to enjoy the 20 min ferry crossing to Killimer. As we were driving on to the vehicular ferry the sun disappeared and black clouds rolled in. Well,  blow me, we were in the bow of the ferry and the waves washed right over the car repeatedly although the boat was steady. And so began our midwinter drive up The Wild Atlantic Way.
Our first stop was the village of Kilrush where the rain was lashing down. Very few people had braved the storm but in the one cafe we found open the patrons were bemoaning "the slow day". We sat in there for some time fascinated by the customers who all seemed to be characters out of a play. Some of them we couldn't understand at all. They all talked so loudly and seemed to be able to understand each other.
One of the customs that we have noted is that pedestrians have right-of-way at all times. Even in Dublin when the lights give the go for cars, pedestrians will cross when and where they wish, and cars/buses don't run them over. I have to keep reminding Peter while he's driving.

Those of you with access to my FB photos will see a men's shop window in Kilrush displaying florid summer beach wear. Of course not a soul was in the shop in the grim conditions we were experiencing.

On we went until we came to the seaside village of Quilty. We had passed camping grounds on our way and Quilty was obviously a beach resort that would have been expecting summer holiday visitors. But no. Bowls of steaming hot vegetable soup were much more in order. We were royally entertained by an Irish accordian summer school.

As we moved on, the first Cliffs of Moher road signage came into view. Another 10 km on we had arrived. By then the Atlantic Way was at its full fury. Standing up was a challenge. We got as far as the visitors' centre where hundreds of other tourists were sheltering but decided against going out. I just peeked out the door, snapped the Cliffs in the driving rain and ran back to the car drenched to the skin. Peter bought a DVD of them which we'll watch back home.

Monday 6 July 2015

6 July: Glin (think Limerick)
We left Waterford in a major deluge that looked to be flooding the roads. None of our navigation devices would register and we couldn't see 10 metres ahead of us despite having the wipers at the max. Miraculously we got onto the N24 and it was plain sailing from then on (literally). Through Carrick-on-Suir, Clonmel,  Cahir to stop at Tipperary.  Yes indeed it was a long way in those conditions, but you'll see from the photos that it ran out of rain by then and has been fine ever since.
Peter was poorly again by then so back into the Tipperary pharmacy. Lunch at an enchanting cafe with the most sympathetic Irish beauties renewed his strength ( with the aid of more drugs) and we motored on, by-passing Limerick to get to Foynes (the point of our trip to Ireland)
For the uninitiated, Foynes has a flying boat & maritime museum which was opened in 1989 on the site of the airbase for passenger flights across the Atlantic during the 19 40 s.
The display features a 17 min film made from original footage which was extremely useful for people like me who know nothing.
Of particular interest to me was that in 1942 (a grand year) one of the flights had to turn back  after 10 hours because of atrocious flying conditions. Chef Jo Sheridan felt sorry for the poor passengers and added a wee drop to their coffee. And so was born the Irish coffee with which I now have a love affair. The FB photo is a bit dark, but so was the museum.
6 km further on is the little village of Glin, the location of our first B&B. What a charming welcome!!!! Very happy to settle in here for the night 😊
5 July: Waterford
My goodness me, did we land on our feet with the one room that became  available in Waterford on the Saturday night of a U something rock festival. We're on the 1st floor of the Tower Hotel overlooking the River Suir (see photo). There must be stunning sound insulation because I'm not a great rock fan and the noise was no problem. I could feel the vibration in the floorboards more.
Peter slept soundly, breathing right through the night. I kept waking and checking because the lack of coughing worried me.
Our activities consisted of a slow perambulation along the picturesque river bank and then a sit in the sunshine waiting for the urgent chemist to open at 11.00. By then it was time to return to the stunning Waterford Crystal Restaurant for gluten free cakes and Belgian hot chocolate. All so exhausting that we returned to our hotel (which turned out to be next door) for a lie down.
We sallied forth again later in the afternoon and wandered the historic streets. There are now the beginnings of the glorification of the Viking history. In another 10 years the place will be well worth a visit. Perhaps by then the tourist information office will open at the weekends.
Back to our room for a pre-dinner snooze and then a stunning dinner at the Tower, a little of which Peter managed to eat.
Will it be that after 4 days of these 8 steroid tablets at a throw Peter will be feeling better.
Time will tell.

Sunday 5 July 2015

4 July: Free-wheeling
Regretfully we packed ourselves out of Trinity and faced the challenge of getting to Avis to pick up our car. Because of the roadworks networking the centre city there is nowhere for taxis or buses to stop. However, there is no traffic flow either so it's a hazardous process of spotting the vehicle you want, waving frantically and then loading or off-loading while it's stationary - which is most of the time. And thus we fell into a taxi and sat  while the driver inched his way through the chaos.
When we eventually reached the Avis office we stood for an hour in the queue to complete the paperwork.  You'll see from the FB photo we were duly rewarded for all this with a brand new Nissan with 17 km on the clock.
Now it was Peter's turn to negotiate the traffic, but with the aid of mapsme, which, thanks to Josephine,  he had loaded prior to leaving Trinity, we eventually reached the highway and felt the wind in our sails (metaphorically speaking). We rewarded ourselves with morning tea/lunch at Wicklow before seriously driving to Waterford. One of my sorrows in life was my visit to Waterford in 1993 to find it closed for winter. So we were about to remedy that. I thought Peter should see the pretty little town of Wexford en route but that was hosting a family day so traffic was reduced to a crawl. Very very slowly we inched our way through that traffic jam and reached Waterford at 4 pm.  We had planned stopping at the crystal centre for lunch but 4 hours later we did get here, did fluke a parking space and did stagger into their very impressive factory. Peter was coughing throughout all this, but then he's been coughing since mid June so it's become a lifestyle.
Fortunately we arrived 2 minutes before the last tour of the day so joined that. The factory was opened in 1783 and has had an intermittent life ever since. It went into receivership in 2009 but was bought by a global mega company and started fresh operations. The reason for its popularity is that it uses 33% lead in its mix as compared with the standard 22% of other manufacturers. We walked our way through each of the sections of its production and spent an enralling hour there.
By this stage it was obvious that we needed to stay in Waterford for the night,  but the city was hosting a U2 (or 3 or 4) concert so there was no accommodation. Suddenly we happened upon a B & B place out of town and managed to get a room on the 3rd floor. No, of course there was no lift. There was no food anywhere around either so we had to drive back to town along with hundreds of concert fans.
Backgrounding this story is Peter's incessant coughing. By the time he managed to park the car and find a restaurant where he could sit down, it was obvious he needed pretty urgent medical assistance  - again. So I had to start finding same at 6.30 on a Saturday night in a strange city packed to the gills with rock concert fans.
I won't bore you with my anguish. I'll skip to the bit where he's on a respirator in A & E with a huge Indian doctor waggling his head at me saying "No problem Madam" repeatedly. There he was wrong. It was a mountainous problem!!! During all this I had found 1 hotel room which had just had 1 cancellation. The doctor gave Peter 7 little steroid pills which he had to sluice down under strict supervision. Then followed pages of totally indecipherable script and a hospital admission slip. If Sir stops breathing, take him to the hospital immediately. @#¥*&?!#÷€
So here we are in a little room on the first floor of a waterfront hotel in Waterford post rock concert.
To be continued - perhaps!

Friday 3 July 2015

3 July: Last day in Dublin
After spending the morning on the essentials like the Friday hairdo, replacing Peter's collapsed suitcase and retail therapy in Marks & Spencer's, I chose to participate in a free literary heritage walk leaving Peter to a cup of tea and a lie in the sun. Perhaps the Irish Vitamin D would be more effective than his antibiotics.
The tour was advertised as 1 hour long and began, of course,  in the grounds of Trinity College which used to be open only to Protestant men. Women were not admitted as they would prove a distraction to the study of these men.
1924 was the date of Irish Independence and soon after, it was deemed necessary to establish a Committee of Evil Literature. This committee censored all publications and if any was considered politically provocative then it was banned. This resulted in Irish writers having to flee their homeland and live in countries where their work could be published.
James Joyce was the first writer of the tour with the publication of 'Ulysses' in 1922. You may know the character Leopold Bloome who used to visit the chemist shop Sweny's to buy his wife lemon soap. Well,  our very first stop was at the very same chemist shop Sweny's, built in 1847. The FB photos show that this shop has been preserved in its original format with the chemist looking for all the world like the original chemist. And of course I purchased a bar of lemon soap. We stayed in the shop for some time listening to the chemist who was a fascinating authority on James Joyce.
Jonathon Swift's writing was analysed but he lived beyond the scope of our walking tour so we did not get to the Deanery where he served  his term of office (although I had seen it from our tour coach windows). All of these writers were deeply satyrical of course in order to have their work published and live to continue writing.
Just around the corner was Oscar Wilde's home and opposite it the only coloured  statue in Dublin. The sculpture is recent and only yesterday was it ready for viewing with the completion of the fencing, accompanying plinths of his most pithy quotations and landscaping of the area. Today it is truly an impressive tribute to the writer who was so condemned by his society. Stepping beyond this wonderful display you come into the garden of 'The Selfish Giant' where adults are forbidden unless accompanied by children. The huge creative play area was opened last year.
The next Irish writer was Bram Stoker, the creator of Dracula which is second only to the Bible in its scope of publication. Fascinating hearing of Stoker's sickly childhood and his grandmother's ghoulish stories which resulted in Stoker's unique saga.
By this stage we had been walking 2 1/2 hours in what was for me, Dublin's hottest day. I was forced to take my cardigan off. So we finished the tour by the pubs patronized by Brendon Behan (a drinker with a writing problem) and Roddy Doyle, author of 'The Commitments' and 'The Barry town Trilogy' which best captures Ireland today.
Our magical fount of all literary knowledge concluded the 1 hour tour after nearly 3 hours but needed to return me to Trinity College. As it happened we weren't many pubs away from it, but I had lost my bearings. Suddenly we came across an amazing sculpture of 7 quaint men that I hadn't seen before. Curious! This was an area I knew well. The bronze statue was a magnificent work of art which I needed to photograph. Suddenly one of the characters winked at me and beckoned me closer!!!! My goodness, no wonder the sculpture was so realistic. Each character was in fact,  alive. What a memorable conclusion for what has been my favourite Irish experience.
In the evening we took ourselves to 'The Merry Ploughboy Pub Irish Dinner & Show". This has been awarded Ireland's best dinner/dance event for the last 4 years. It was Peter's first, but I wouldn't rank it any higher than the 2 I had experienced on our Insight coach tour. A wonderful evening nonetheless.

Thursday 2 July 2015

2 July: Dublin
Wonderful to have such a peaceful night's sleep here at Trinity, woken this morning by some extremely vociferous seagulls. Did NOT have to have our bags ready at our door by 6.30. AND  the sun was shining.
So after breakfast at the Buttery, we set off for a day hopping on and off the red bus touring Dublin. First we tried to book for "Ireland's best traditional dinner and show" for tomorrow night. Sorry Madam, it's fully booked. So we've booked for another. Peter missed both the superb shows on the tour because he was sick. Later this afternoon we were walking past "The Merry Ploughman" and a woman invited us to the show so I told her we'd tried to book for it and were too late. But no, they have plenty of room tomorrow night. Oh well, we tried.
Hopefully you can follow the photos I've put onto FB and see our visit to Temple Bar with Dublin Castle dating from 1717 and then our visit to the Guiness Factory dating from 1759. The Guiness Storehouse building is designed in the shape of a giant pint of Guiness that if full would hold 14.3 million pints. I don't like the drink at all, but the 7 storey visitor experience offering Ireland's finest cuisine along with panoramic views of Dublin is certainly a must-do.
That took up a large slice of the day but we did take the opportunity of walking across The Ha'penny Bridge which was restored to be renamed The Millennium Bridge. However they didn't get it finished until 2003, so it's original name lives on.
Tonight we have tickets for Sean O'Casey's play "The Shadow of a Gunman" at the Abbey Theatre . He has dramatised one of Ireland's recent conflicts.

Wednesday 1 July 2015

1 July: Belfast - Dublin. End of Insight "Country Roads of Ireland" tour.
Our day began at 4.30 with a glorious blood red sunrise. About 30 of the 40 group members (all of whom had Peter's bug by now) had chosen to fly out from Dublin. This was a 2 hour run on the motorway.
We were lucky enough to hitch a ride to the city centre as the coach was taking that route anyway. The congestion in the centre was horrendous because of the tangle of road works halving the width of the streets. We had to jump off our coach at a back entrance of Trinity simply because the grand front entrance was impassable.
Miraculously we stumbled into the accommodation office where we were greeted enthusiastically by a young man who picked up our bags, deposited them and us into a campus van and drove us through a maze of pathways to our apartment block. I hope you can access the photos on FB. We have a ground level 2 bedroomed, 2 bathroomed suite of enormous proportions. It is hard to believe we are right in the heart of Dublin. All such a contrast to the bedlam of Belfast last night.
We soon found the Buttery and enjoyed a real Irish morning coffee and huge slabs of seed cake (like Mother used to make) there at student rates. This will certainly afford Peter the peace and quiet he needs to regain his health and allow him to start enjoying his dream tour of Ireland. It has stopped raining and the temperature has risen 10 degrees to 23.