7 July: Lisdooonvarna ( think the Burren)
The day dawned bright and clear and we set off for Tarbert to enjoy the 20 min ferry crossing to Killimer. As we were driving on to the vehicular ferry the sun disappeared and black clouds rolled in. Well,  blow me, we were in the bow of the ferry and the waves washed right over the car repeatedly although the boat was steady. And so began our midwinter drive up The Wild Atlantic Way.
Our first stop was the village of Kilrush where the rain was lashing down. Very few people had braved the storm but in the one cafe we found open the patrons were bemoaning "the slow day". We sat in there for some time fascinated by the customers who all seemed to be characters out of a play. Some of them we couldn't understand at all. They all talked so loudly and seemed to be able to understand each other.
One of the customs that we have noted is that pedestrians have right-of-way at all times. Even in Dublin when the lights give the go for cars, pedestrians will cross when and where they wish, and cars/buses don't run them over. I have to keep reminding Peter while he's driving.

Those of you with access to my FB photos will see a men's shop window in Kilrush displaying florid summer beach wear. Of course not a soul was in the shop in the grim conditions we were experiencing.

On we went until we came to the seaside village of Quilty. We had passed camping grounds on our way and Quilty was obviously a beach resort that would have been expecting summer holiday visitors. But no. Bowls of steaming hot vegetable soup were much more in order. We were royally entertained by an Irish accordian summer school.

As we moved on, the first Cliffs of Moher road signage came into view. Another 10 km on we had arrived. By then the Atlantic Way was at its full fury. Standing up was a challenge. We got as far as the visitors' centre where hundreds of other tourists were sheltering but decided against going out. I just peeked out the door, snapped the Cliffs in the driving rain and ran back to the car drenched to the skin. Peter bought a DVD of them which we'll watch back home.