Mon July 4th
Today we decided to have a drive into the country out east and explore the Swan and Avon Valleys. The Swan Valley is about 30 minutes from our unit. Think Martin borough. It bills itself as a 32 km loop comprising more than 150 wineries, restaurants,  cafes, breweries, distilleries, art galleries, farm gates, and other attractions.  Of course we hit Monday in the middle of winter so most of it was shut. Have I mentioned how bitterly cold it is? However, the 2 chocolate factories were bustling it being school holidays, so Peter was totally happy. He agreed to have morning coffee in a lavender shop to allow me to avoid the nauseating smell of the chocolate.  We stocked up on two cheeses at The Cheese Barrel, a vast improvement on Coles Australian Cheddar.
I also wanted to explore the Avon Valley so we sallied forth on the 90 km drive through the Kwolyine National Reserve to the next major shire of Northam.  We got there just before they stopped serving lunch at 3.30 so we were extremely fortunate to get the last of the steaming vegetable soup. Then into the huge new visitors' centre to find out the delights of Northam.  Chatting to the entertaining woman there we said we intended walking around the historic buildings there and then driving back to Perth in the evening. You can't, said she. Why not, we said  Because of the roos, said she. Roos? What are they?  Well she just loved that one!!! Here she had 2 elderly Kiwis who didn't know what kangaroos were. It's not that exactly. It's just that we didn't know they would prevent us from drivg back to Perth in the evening.  Nobody told us that that's when they come out to play Russian roulette with cars on the Great Eastern Highway.
So, plan B. Stay overnight.  It was actually too cold to explore the delights of Northam by then anyway. So she rang one place which was fully booked and then said we'd have to stay in the Riverside Hotel. That's OK.  An hotel sounds just the ticket. I must confess I was a tad surprised by the lack of choice. But I talked to the booking man and hey presto we were all organised. Off we trotted in the gloom and bought the requisite toothbrushes before driving all the way around the corner to the Riverside Hotel, an historic building. There was no sign of a river, but a very young man looked astonished when we said we were booked in for the night and gave us a key to a row of tin sheds out the back.  We applied the key and walked into our tiny icebox. Yes, there was a bed. Yes, it had a heater.  It occupied one wall on one side of the bed. When Peter found a lead to and a plug this great monstrosity sprang into life. Think the inside of a concrete mixer. However, 30 mins later, it produced some heat. There was a TV which screened the Aussie news intermittently. Election, dead body in a suitcase just down river from our unit , and P contaminated rental properties. With no Internet access and no personal comforts, Peter was not impressed. However, once we made our way to the crowded dining room, found some alcohol and some excellent hot food, we resumed our cordial relationship and had a pleasant evening.  On reading the writeup of Northam,  there was no mention of accommodation.  It's a commercial centre that is not built for tourists.  Our accommodation was what was offered to trucks over-nightingale.
With the help of the wine, and a superb thick duvet, and turning off the concrete mixer, we slept the night away.