Sun 26 May - Taormina River
It had obviously rained during the night, but was not raining until we started walking to the bus and then only a light drizzle. It was 7 degrees C. Totally unseasonal. Of course winter is January/ February in these parts but this year it started snowing the week we arrived. I THOUGHT it was cold. As our bus zigged and zagged through the villages up the mountain there were vestiges of snow. Mt Etna is the largest active volcano in Europe. Today there are 4 1/2 active craters. It is an example of a Strombolian volcano as it has a lot of spectacular high explosions . The last very strong 7.3 earthquake was in 2001 that did considerable damage but there was a smaller one just this last Christmas causing far less damage because of newly introduced building regulations. It has lateral craters as well. On the slopes of this wonderfully fertile landscape grow chestnut trees, broom, pink valerian. Our guide was Vanessa who lives in the highest village of Zefferona where saffron grows. Broom is the symbol of Mt Etna. It is also famed for its honey which is offered in a variety of flavors. The Wildlife on the slopes are wild cats and rabbits, foxes and falcons. There are 2 ski resorts which open for seasons of 2 weeks to 2 months.
We stopped driving at 7,000 ft and disembarked for a coffee at an excellent large centre and it was then that we were hit with a bitterly icy blast and quite heavy rain. The coffee was so welcome and greatly enhanced by their very strong liqueur like drinking fire. I loved it.
We then we were driven a little way down for those who were prepared to brave the elements to view one of the lateral craters but I headed straight for the bar to mingle with the crowds of other tourists. By the time I emerged in search of our group members and bus the clouds had come down creating a whiteout. However it was such a very worthwhile trip contrasting dramatically with any other of our travel experience.
We cautiously zigged and zagged our way down through the clouds to our hotel where we quickly found a restaurant which served real Italian minestrone soup. Superb!!!!!
After a short break, we clambered back onto the coach again and set off to Taormina - known as the Sicilian Monte Carlo - in the pouring rain.
It is a beautiful coastal town with a population of 11,000 people and is financed purely by the thousands of tourist who come year round to experience the Greek Theatre built in 3 BC. Miraculously, as we stepped into the city streets the rain stopped, allowing as to enjoy these spectacular ruins which have been restored sufficiently to stage a season of Greek drama in the summer. The other attraction is the public gardens which overlook the coastline. We then had time to wander through the rabbit warren of of the quaintest city streets all involving steps which were oh so hard on the joints. Definitely cause for large tubs of gelato.
At 6.00pm our dear coach driver took us further along the coast to a splendid castle restaurant for our farewell dinner.
What an exceptional tour that was!!!! Thank you Globus. I can recommend it to all of you but not, repeat NOT in July or August.
Sunday, 26 May 2019
Saturday, 25 May 2019
Sat 25 May - Taormina Riviera
Now that I have had the most thrilling Skype call from granddaughter Jay in Illinois, I can settle to writing up our adventures today starting in Catania, which is on the coast of the Ionian Sea. Archaeologists have found sculptures here dating back to the Bronze Age. Of course Catania is dominated by the live Mt Etna known as Mamma Etna which has an outlet at all times
It is when that outlet is blocked that she gets angry and erupts ( so they say). Catania has a population of 3020 and is an extremely fertile region. We did catch a glimpse of her, but she was shrouded in cloud today. Our big morning tour is tomorrow so hopefully she will reveal more of herself close up.
We were taken to the Piazza del Doumo and let loose for shopping. However I happened upon the cutest little motorised guzzi and made his day by hiring him to putter around Catania CBD
It was gaily bedecked in Sicilian fashion and played such catchy tunes. People were filming us, waving and cheering. It was outrageous fun for 45 mins. We saw more Cathedrals and ruins galore but, really, seen one, seen 'em all now. We just enjoyed causing traffic jams and providing photo opportunities for other tourists.
After yet more food and caffe, we boarded our trusty coach and headed for the hills of Savoca up hairpin Mamma Mia roads. We were greeted there by the staff of the Bar Vitelli with a granita and brioche. This would be delightful on a warmer day, but we're too early to do warm.
We then started on the vertical climb to the church of Santa Lucia, famed for its part of Michael Corleone's wedding in The Godfather.
What a stunning vista from this height, despite the inclement conditions.
We then zig-zagged down to our resort on the Taormina Riviera with its own beachfront. I dragged Peter out onto the beach but really, another 10 degrees would have made it a more pleasant experience.
We realise now that we have made a mistake rushing out of this luxurious accommodation at 4am on Monday to catch one of the only two flights to Malta. We had a choice of a 7am flight or 11.55pm. Do we want to sit in Malta airport from 8.00am till 2pm to wait for our Airbnb to be ready for us, or try to make our way to goodness only knows where at 12.55am? Let's not even think about it.
Now that I have had the most thrilling Skype call from granddaughter Jay in Illinois, I can settle to writing up our adventures today starting in Catania, which is on the coast of the Ionian Sea. Archaeologists have found sculptures here dating back to the Bronze Age. Of course Catania is dominated by the live Mt Etna known as Mamma Etna which has an outlet at all times
It is when that outlet is blocked that she gets angry and erupts ( so they say). Catania has a population of 3020 and is an extremely fertile region. We did catch a glimpse of her, but she was shrouded in cloud today. Our big morning tour is tomorrow so hopefully she will reveal more of herself close up.
We were taken to the Piazza del Doumo and let loose for shopping. However I happened upon the cutest little motorised guzzi and made his day by hiring him to putter around Catania CBD
It was gaily bedecked in Sicilian fashion and played such catchy tunes. People were filming us, waving and cheering. It was outrageous fun for 45 mins. We saw more Cathedrals and ruins galore but, really, seen one, seen 'em all now. We just enjoyed causing traffic jams and providing photo opportunities for other tourists.
After yet more food and caffe, we boarded our trusty coach and headed for the hills of Savoca up hairpin Mamma Mia roads. We were greeted there by the staff of the Bar Vitelli with a granita and brioche. This would be delightful on a warmer day, but we're too early to do warm.
We then started on the vertical climb to the church of Santa Lucia, famed for its part of Michael Corleone's wedding in The Godfather.
What a stunning vista from this height, despite the inclement conditions.
We then zig-zagged down to our resort on the Taormina Riviera with its own beachfront. I dragged Peter out onto the beach but really, another 10 degrees would have made it a more pleasant experience.
We realise now that we have made a mistake rushing out of this luxurious accommodation at 4am on Monday to catch one of the only two flights to Malta. We had a choice of a 7am flight or 11.55pm. Do we want to sit in Malta airport from 8.00am till 2pm to wait for our Airbnb to be ready for us, or try to make our way to goodness only knows where at 12.55am? Let's not even think about it.
Friday, 24 May 2019
Friday 24 May - Syracuse
I am running a bit behind with my diary entries.I'll cat h up on the remainder of yesterday when we were taken to Modica, renowned for making a unique chocolate without butter or milk. Curious. We watched the process in Sicily's oldest factory, the Dolceria Bonajuto. I was astonished that I liked the couple of samples that I had, only to find out they weren't chocolate at all, but nougat which they also make. Nobody told me.
We had half an hour to fill in before another Siciluan dinner so Peter and I sauntered down the medieval street into a sportswear shop. Peter was approached by a charming Sicilian lass who talked him into buying an elegant suade jacket and matching scarf. Definitely worth a photo shoot with the very smart salesgirl and her sister. By the time he'd had two glasses of vino before dinner he was just the happiest chappy.
I am running a bit behind with my diary entries.I'll cat h up on the remainder of yesterday when we were taken to Modica, renowned for making a unique chocolate without butter or milk. Curious. We watched the process in Sicily's oldest factory, the Dolceria Bonajuto. I was astonished that I liked the couple of samples that I had, only to find out they weren't chocolate at all, but nougat which they also make. Nobody told me.
We had half an hour to fill in before another Siciluan dinner so Peter and I sauntered down the medieval street into a sportswear shop. Peter was approached by a charming Sicilian lass who talked him into buying an elegant suade jacket and matching scarf. Definitely worth a photo shoot with the very smart salesgirl and her sister. By the time he'd had two glasses of vino before dinner he was just the happiest chappy.
This morning dawned bright and clear and off we drove to Noto, yet another beautiful historic centre rebuilt in the early 18th century after the devastating 1693 earthquake. Our guide was one of Sicily's most famous named SLvatore. Oh how it suited him. He is doing three tours with us today morning in Noto, afternoon in the archaeological site of Syracuse and this evening in Ortigia Island housing the Apollo temple, the oldest Doric Temple in Sicily. This to be followed by yet another pizza feast. I'll have to stop here to change for the evening.
Thursday, 23 May 2019
Thurs 23 May - Ragusa
We're only half way through today but I must share Ragusa with you. This city suffered a massive earthquake in 1693 which wiped out half its population. It has been rebuilt in Baroque style and consists of two cities, Upper and Lower Ragusa built on two mountains. It is upper Ragusa Ibla which is the UNESCO world Heritage site . Ragusa is a very wealthy area with a population of 73,000. It derives its income from Agricilture and tourism. It has its own University
and becomes a movie set every spring for the filming of a popular detective series (which I gave not heard of).
Our local guide Barbara introduced us to the beautiful Giardini Iblei gardens from which we could clearly see the two cities with the wide valley in between where the main dividing river runs. The impressive driveway is lined with imposing palms trees brought over from Africa.
In Ragusa they breed unique red cows which produce the milk from which locals make the famed Formaggi Siciliani cheeses. Also the best wine in all of Italy, Docg is made in Ragusa. Much to my delight they offer gluten free pizzas (for 2 euros extra) so I was able to experience my first Sicilian fruit pizza with a glass of local Chardonnay. However, we did not succumb to the Canola Ragusa. We are still recovering from our Gelato Supremo from Caltagirone yesterday.
Perhaps the highlight for us was the documentary film shown at a theatre which took us through the charm of the Ragusa area, through intense and spectacular images. It was a 30min film making us far more aware of the history and cultural importance of the area.
My tour of this magnificent city ended in spectacular fashion with the arrival of a large, multi-legged flying insect which arrived down my v-necked T shirt to settle inside my bra at the bottom. Nothing for it but to hold the bus while I rushed off to a nearby bagnio in order to strip off and release the monster. Very entertaining for my fellow travellers. Fortunately said flying beast did not bite.
We're only half way through today but I must share Ragusa with you. This city suffered a massive earthquake in 1693 which wiped out half its population. It has been rebuilt in Baroque style and consists of two cities, Upper and Lower Ragusa built on two mountains. It is upper Ragusa Ibla which is the UNESCO world Heritage site . Ragusa is a very wealthy area with a population of 73,000. It derives its income from Agricilture and tourism. It has its own University
and becomes a movie set every spring for the filming of a popular detective series (which I gave not heard of).
Our local guide Barbara introduced us to the beautiful Giardini Iblei gardens from which we could clearly see the two cities with the wide valley in between where the main dividing river runs. The impressive driveway is lined with imposing palms trees brought over from Africa.
In Ragusa they breed unique red cows which produce the milk from which locals make the famed Formaggi Siciliani cheeses. Also the best wine in all of Italy, Docg is made in Ragusa. Much to my delight they offer gluten free pizzas (for 2 euros extra) so I was able to experience my first Sicilian fruit pizza with a glass of local Chardonnay. However, we did not succumb to the Canola Ragusa. We are still recovering from our Gelato Supremo from Caltagirone yesterday.
Perhaps the highlight for us was the documentary film shown at a theatre which took us through the charm of the Ragusa area, through intense and spectacular images. It was a 30min film making us far more aware of the history and cultural importance of the area.
My tour of this magnificent city ended in spectacular fashion with the arrival of a large, multi-legged flying insect which arrived down my v-necked T shirt to settle inside my bra at the bottom. Nothing for it but to hold the bus while I rushed off to a nearby bagnio in order to strip off and release the monster. Very entertaining for my fellow travellers. Fortunately said flying beast did not bite.
Wednesday, 22 May 2019
Wed 22 May - Ragusa
Before we get to today, I must tell you about our dreadful accommodation in Agrigento. It was all show and no go. Definitely a case of all that glitters is not gold. We first encountered its deficiencies when we got to our room. It was totally prohibitive to a night's sleep. Others of our group had worse tales to tell with rooms that had no windows or ventilation of any sort. All the beds were far worse than imaginable. One wing smelt of sewage and the showers were too small for more than a foot wash. Globus will definitely be hearing about this misery.
We were so relieved to get out of this beautiful looking place, say Andiamo (let's go) and do the 2 hour drive to Piazza Armerina to visit another UNESCO site, Villa Romana Del Casale. To reach this we drove through vast areas of olives, oranges and grapes which were covered by netting - whole hillsides of netting. The motorway went up 3,000ft above sea level to the highest city of the Apernine range.
Here we disembarked from the coach to meet our new local guide who took us through a vast Roman hunting lodge thought to be built in the 4th century AD and lived in until it was buried in a mudslide in the 12th century. It was discovered in 1950 and is being restored. The remarkable feature of the huge villa is the use of mosaics on all the flooring. Each area has a theme and the floor is decorated with appropriate mosaics, the most famous of which are the "bikini girls" in the women's gymnasium. We were spellbound for a couple of hours while our guide told us the history and culture of the times. Although I am concerned over the cost of this trip, I can see the value of the experienced commentary. So many tourists were just trotting around having no idea of what they were looking at.
After lunch we were bussed to Caltagirone which means the City of Jars, another UNESCO site famous for its ceramics. The building feature is the Staircase of Santa Maria Del Monte which boasts 146 steps, each face with a contrasting design leading from the piazza straight up to the magnificent cathedral -- which I can tell you nothing about because Peter and I preferred to sit in an equally magnificent ristorante at the bottom and indulge in a decadent gelato fantasy. We were delighted to be driven around the historic city in an open-sided train with 8 little carriages each seating 6 people. Such outrageous fun.
From there it was a short coach trip to Ragusa where we are staying for 2 nights. The conditions are far superior and we fully expect to enjoy our nights' sleep. The dinner was infinitely better.
Before we get to today, I must tell you about our dreadful accommodation in Agrigento. It was all show and no go. Definitely a case of all that glitters is not gold. We first encountered its deficiencies when we got to our room. It was totally prohibitive to a night's sleep. Others of our group had worse tales to tell with rooms that had no windows or ventilation of any sort. All the beds were far worse than imaginable. One wing smelt of sewage and the showers were too small for more than a foot wash. Globus will definitely be hearing about this misery.
We were so relieved to get out of this beautiful looking place, say Andiamo (let's go) and do the 2 hour drive to Piazza Armerina to visit another UNESCO site, Villa Romana Del Casale. To reach this we drove through vast areas of olives, oranges and grapes which were covered by netting - whole hillsides of netting. The motorway went up 3,000ft above sea level to the highest city of the Apernine range.
Here we disembarked from the coach to meet our new local guide who took us through a vast Roman hunting lodge thought to be built in the 4th century AD and lived in until it was buried in a mudslide in the 12th century. It was discovered in 1950 and is being restored. The remarkable feature of the huge villa is the use of mosaics on all the flooring. Each area has a theme and the floor is decorated with appropriate mosaics, the most famous of which are the "bikini girls" in the women's gymnasium. We were spellbound for a couple of hours while our guide told us the history and culture of the times. Although I am concerned over the cost of this trip, I can see the value of the experienced commentary. So many tourists were just trotting around having no idea of what they were looking at.
After lunch we were bussed to Caltagirone which means the City of Jars, another UNESCO site famous for its ceramics. The building feature is the Staircase of Santa Maria Del Monte which boasts 146 steps, each face with a contrasting design leading from the piazza straight up to the magnificent cathedral -- which I can tell you nothing about because Peter and I preferred to sit in an equally magnificent ristorante at the bottom and indulge in a decadent gelato fantasy. We were delighted to be driven around the historic city in an open-sided train with 8 little carriages each seating 6 people. Such outrageous fun.
From there it was a short coach trip to Ragusa where we are staying for 2 nights. The conditions are far superior and we fully expect to enjoy our nights' sleep. The dinner was infinitely better.
Tuesday, 21 May 2019
Tues 21 May - Agrigento
We thoroughly appreciated our later departure from our luxury resort. I suspect that will be the pick of it for our whole tour. Good while it lasted.
The drive through to Sciacca (Shukker) treated us to countryside producing grapes, oranges and olives the like of which I have never experienced. I quite like olives in NZ but they pale into insignificance compared with real Sicilian olives, as do tomatoes. Italian wine differs from the French in that it has no added sugar. The sweetness comes from the sun. The Sciacca population is 51,000 and is famed for its springs to which people come for therapeutic treatment. There is a very high immigration population here. Today is the first that has indicated the famed Mediterranean warmth. Not hot at all but no puffer jacket required. We had a delightful couple of hours wandering the picturesque town and sampling cappuccino and ricotta delicacies. Live, laugh and forget the kilos. We found a museum (well, Peter did) and admired a well preserved Sicillian homestead of a wealthy family.
On we drove to the UNESCO site of Agrigento famed for its Valley of the temples. 27 years ago I was lucky enough to visit the Acropolis with my friends Glen and Laurie. Agrigento has the Temple of Concordia which dates from the 5th century BC and is in better repair. I am sure that this would look more spectacular with the flood lights which are set up. We had dazzling sunlight instead. Our guide Claudio was a splendid Sicilian man born in these parts who gave us such a detailed historical background punctuated by his dry sense of humour. Any time he stopped talking he burst into song. He was a comprehensive entertainment on his own quite apart from the awe-inspiring surroundings. It is miraculous that these gigantic yet graceful structures have survived 24 centuries of tormented history. Some of our travel group of 39 people (mainly Americans) have done Italy and Sicily before but have returned purely for today's spectacle. Once again Josephine for telling us we just HAD to come on this particular Globus tour. You're right. I'll pass your advice on to other friends.
Then we came to the Agrigento goats. What splendid beasts they are with their long shaggy coats and their unique huge horns shaped like corkscrews.
Our accommodation tonight is a poor relation to last night's, but hey, you can't have it all. Perhaps the food will be good.
We thoroughly appreciated our later departure from our luxury resort. I suspect that will be the pick of it for our whole tour. Good while it lasted.
The drive through to Sciacca (Shukker) treated us to countryside producing grapes, oranges and olives the like of which I have never experienced. I quite like olives in NZ but they pale into insignificance compared with real Sicilian olives, as do tomatoes. Italian wine differs from the French in that it has no added sugar. The sweetness comes from the sun. The Sciacca population is 51,000 and is famed for its springs to which people come for therapeutic treatment. There is a very high immigration population here. Today is the first that has indicated the famed Mediterranean warmth. Not hot at all but no puffer jacket required. We had a delightful couple of hours wandering the picturesque town and sampling cappuccino and ricotta delicacies. Live, laugh and forget the kilos. We found a museum (well, Peter did) and admired a well preserved Sicillian homestead of a wealthy family.
On we drove to the UNESCO site of Agrigento famed for its Valley of the temples. 27 years ago I was lucky enough to visit the Acropolis with my friends Glen and Laurie. Agrigento has the Temple of Concordia which dates from the 5th century BC and is in better repair. I am sure that this would look more spectacular with the flood lights which are set up. We had dazzling sunlight instead. Our guide Claudio was a splendid Sicilian man born in these parts who gave us such a detailed historical background punctuated by his dry sense of humour. Any time he stopped talking he burst into song. He was a comprehensive entertainment on his own quite apart from the awe-inspiring surroundings. It is miraculous that these gigantic yet graceful structures have survived 24 centuries of tormented history. Some of our travel group of 39 people (mainly Americans) have done Italy and Sicily before but have returned purely for today's spectacle. Once again Josephine for telling us we just HAD to come on this particular Globus tour. You're right. I'll pass your advice on to other friends.
Then we came to the Agrigento goats. What splendid beasts they are with their long shaggy coats and their unique huge horns shaped like corkscrews.
Our accommodation tonight is a poor relation to last night's, but hey, you can't have it all. Perhaps the food will be good.
Monday, 20 May 2019
Monday 20 May - Marsala
First, you need to know that when we turned up 30 mins before the puppet show last night, we were greeted by a sign which Google translated to Next show 2 June. So, once again we had no choice but to order a vino rosso ( or 2) and a pizza and a risotto, and sit and watch the crowds of Sicilians strutting their stuff along the main street which had been cordoned off for the purpose. All the human puppets were even more fascinating than any manufactured doll.
This morning bags needed to be outside the door before 7am and travellers breakfasted and ready to board our coach by 8am.
Away we rolled on the motorway through Capaci where there are two magnificent monuments to Judges Falcone and Borsoline who were assassinated by the Mafia on 23 May 1992. Falcone is going through the deification process to become another patron saint of Sicily.
We wound our way slowly through Mamma Mia roads up 2,100ft to the hilltop town of Erice - such a pretty little oh- so-Sicilian town built into the hillside. The gastronomic feature there was the Pasticceria Maria Grammatico where we were served with a platter of traditional almond biscuits (all of which I could eat) and a glass of Marsala wine washed down by a cappuccino. We continued our climb by foot to view the 5th century Norman castle which looked so Peter Jackson in the swirling mists.
After a breath-stopping descent in our coach we went on to view one of the traditional salt mills and learn the specialist process of making salt.
I shall never take our salt for granted again. A small flat-bottomed ferry took us to an island where there is a vast collection of findings from the Phonoecian period, the most treasured of which is a more-than-life-sized marble statue of a charioteer estimated to be dated 5BC. So much of the stuff was in perfect condition.
We had 1 1/2hours to explore the island before the boat trip back to our coach for a 2 hour drive to our luxurious Giardino Di Costanza Resort. Oh my!!!! We have adapted to this very quickly.
As I said in yesterday's blog, my email and Facebook are malfunctioning, so you are better to use mgcaisley@gmail.com for any catch-up on the home news. I seem to be able to get single photos on to fb by going through Instagram. Go figure. Peter is having no trouble at all and is tagging his photos hoping that my friends will get them. All very curious.
First, you need to know that when we turned up 30 mins before the puppet show last night, we were greeted by a sign which Google translated to Next show 2 June. So, once again we had no choice but to order a vino rosso ( or 2) and a pizza and a risotto, and sit and watch the crowds of Sicilians strutting their stuff along the main street which had been cordoned off for the purpose. All the human puppets were even more fascinating than any manufactured doll.
This morning bags needed to be outside the door before 7am and travellers breakfasted and ready to board our coach by 8am.
Away we rolled on the motorway through Capaci where there are two magnificent monuments to Judges Falcone and Borsoline who were assassinated by the Mafia on 23 May 1992. Falcone is going through the deification process to become another patron saint of Sicily.
We wound our way slowly through Mamma Mia roads up 2,100ft to the hilltop town of Erice - such a pretty little oh- so-Sicilian town built into the hillside. The gastronomic feature there was the Pasticceria Maria Grammatico where we were served with a platter of traditional almond biscuits (all of which I could eat) and a glass of Marsala wine washed down by a cappuccino. We continued our climb by foot to view the 5th century Norman castle which looked so Peter Jackson in the swirling mists.
After a breath-stopping descent in our coach we went on to view one of the traditional salt mills and learn the specialist process of making salt.
I shall never take our salt for granted again. A small flat-bottomed ferry took us to an island where there is a vast collection of findings from the Phonoecian period, the most treasured of which is a more-than-life-sized marble statue of a charioteer estimated to be dated 5BC. So much of the stuff was in perfect condition.
We had 1 1/2hours to explore the island before the boat trip back to our coach for a 2 hour drive to our luxurious Giardino Di Costanza Resort. Oh my!!!! We have adapted to this very quickly.
As I said in yesterday's blog, my email and Facebook are malfunctioning, so you are better to use mgcaisley@gmail.com for any catch-up on the home news. I seem to be able to get single photos on to fb by going through Instagram. Go figure. Peter is having no trouble at all and is tagging his photos hoping that my friends will get them. All very curious.
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