Day 12: Oslo - 19C
This is the start of Gay Pride weekend and thousands have flooded into the city. Shops and ships are gaily bedecked and many people colorfully dressed in rainbow clutching rainbow bunches of intriguing balloons. All very pretty but a nightmare for our poor coach driver as many streets are closed off. People partied all night and will do the same tonight. Thank goodness for double-glazed windows.
We sallied forth at a respectable 8.15am for a city tour before the revelers were stirring to do a city tour by coach and on foot. I was so frustrated by driving past the Ibsen Museum which was not yet opened and will not be included in our stay here. We were told that the pavement from Ibsen' house to the Grand Hotel is decorated with extracts from his plays. He visited that Hotel every single morning at exactly the same time for his morning coffee. People used to set their watches by him.
Oslo is a city of 637,000 people with the swan as their symbol, Cross-country skiing as their national sport and fishing as their primary hobby. It was founded in the year 1000 and has burned down 20 times. There are 8 rivers which bound Oslo and it is the port for the Tall ships race. Some of them are already in. A major problem here is their moose population . Every year there are 40 - 50 traffic accidents as these beasts tangle with the traffic. Earlier this year one got into the tunnel from the city causing the main highway to be closed while they recovered the beast.
Our first stop was at Frogner Park to view the phenomenal sculptures created by Gustav Vigeland. We were there for about an hour listening to the explanations for the vast array of stark sculptures depicting man's journey through life. Too much explanation to write up for you. Google him if you're interested. Mind-blowing!!!
On we went to the magnificent City Hall, past the Munch Museum under construction, due for completion in 2020.
Half our tour group left us back at our hotel but we had paid extra to do a tour of the 3 maritime museums out on the headland. First was the Fram Museum which housed the original Fram craft which Nansen had built in 1893 in order to be the first man to reach the North Pole. It was later borrowed by Amundsen to be the first man to reach the South Pole . And there she resides in Oslo intact.
We then went on to the Kontiki Museum which houses the original balsa wood raft used by Thor Heyerdahl. It took 93 days to sail from Peru to Polynesia. You may have read the book. A fascinating museum also housing Rah I and II and his Tigris. What an intrepid explorer!!!
Finally we visited the Viking museum which was interesting but not as comprehensive as the one we stumbled on in Stockholm.
We took a very circuitous route back to our hotel trying to navigate the Gay revelers and then went out on foot for sustenance. Very difficult here tracking gluten free food. Snack bars only take me so far.
Tonight we are going to a ski-run restaurant on the slopes somewhere for dinner. However as tomorrow is another pre-dawn departure to catch our plane to Tromso on the Arctic Circle I shall end today's diary here. We may well be out of wifi contact for a few days but I'll tune in again when I can.
Saturday, 30 June 2018
Friday, 29 June 2018
Day 11: Bergen
The day began at 4.30 am in order to have our bags ready for pickup at 5.15. Then a quick breakfast before boarding our coach and driving 2 hours to commence cruising on the beautiful Naeroyfjord and Sognefjord. There were magical mists swirling around the countryside on the drive and these misty mountains provided a perfect setting for all the Nordic myths we are learning about. When we descended into the ravines the mists darkened changing the mood. Grieg's music was playing in my mind completing the scene. The route took us through Voss which was bombed heavily by the Germans in WWII. Of course it has been re-built now.
The cruise made me realise the extent of the name Fiord land. Of course. We were deep in the land of fiords with their torrenting waterfalls even in mid summer after Norway's longest drought throughout May. The pilot brought our boat to the foot of the biggest of these giving us opportunity to appreciate the volume and force of the water.
At the end of the cruise when we were coming into Flam we came alongside one of the floating city cruise boats dwarfing our little craft. It really is very challenging trying to visit a town when a cruise boat has come into port. The passengers just swarm over and through everything like ants. They demonstrate gross waste and wanton materialism. What on earth do they do with the armful of stuff they buy? Just how many ceramic trolls does one need? Flam itself is a tiny town consisting of 5 houses. What has turned it into a major bucket list tourist destination was the opening of the Flam Railway in 1940. It took 20 years to build with progress averaging 2metres a week in the tunnels The trains were electrified in 1944 making them the first electric trains in Norway. The track is 20 km long at a gradient of 1:18 and has 20 tunnels. It has an engine at both ends, one to pull and the other to push and takes one hour to reach its destination. At the half way point is the splendid Kjosfossen waterfall. The train stops for a photostop and in due course recorded music heralds the appearance of a magical siren who dances her way across the rocks luring the men away from their wives to come join her. We deduced that there were a team of identical dancers as she appears and disappears from rock platforms down the bed of the waterfall. It is all very theatrical and highly entertaining. I'm not sure how other wives fared but I certainly kept Peter on a short leash.
We disembarked at the end of the track at Myrdal and waited for the Bergen - Oslo train which sped us through the Hardanger National Park in the most picturesque summer conditions. There is much residual snow still and I was happy in my trusty puffer jacket.
It was a 5 hour journey stopping at many towns en route. In the end I stopped myself taking photos of spectacular scenery. My breath has truly been taken away by Norway. It was not high on my travel list but now sits right at the top.
Mind you we were very pleased to pull into Oslo at 7.00pm to be picked by Peter, our wonderful coach driver and be taken to Scandic Victoria. I'm not sure why sitting in a coach, a boat and 2 trains for 13 hours builds a healthy appetite.
The day began at 4.30 am in order to have our bags ready for pickup at 5.15. Then a quick breakfast before boarding our coach and driving 2 hours to commence cruising on the beautiful Naeroyfjord and Sognefjord. There were magical mists swirling around the countryside on the drive and these misty mountains provided a perfect setting for all the Nordic myths we are learning about. When we descended into the ravines the mists darkened changing the mood. Grieg's music was playing in my mind completing the scene. The route took us through Voss which was bombed heavily by the Germans in WWII. Of course it has been re-built now.
The cruise made me realise the extent of the name Fiord land. Of course. We were deep in the land of fiords with their torrenting waterfalls even in mid summer after Norway's longest drought throughout May. The pilot brought our boat to the foot of the biggest of these giving us opportunity to appreciate the volume and force of the water.
At the end of the cruise when we were coming into Flam we came alongside one of the floating city cruise boats dwarfing our little craft. It really is very challenging trying to visit a town when a cruise boat has come into port. The passengers just swarm over and through everything like ants. They demonstrate gross waste and wanton materialism. What on earth do they do with the armful of stuff they buy? Just how many ceramic trolls does one need? Flam itself is a tiny town consisting of 5 houses. What has turned it into a major bucket list tourist destination was the opening of the Flam Railway in 1940. It took 20 years to build with progress averaging 2metres a week in the tunnels The trains were electrified in 1944 making them the first electric trains in Norway. The track is 20 km long at a gradient of 1:18 and has 20 tunnels. It has an engine at both ends, one to pull and the other to push and takes one hour to reach its destination. At the half way point is the splendid Kjosfossen waterfall. The train stops for a photostop and in due course recorded music heralds the appearance of a magical siren who dances her way across the rocks luring the men away from their wives to come join her. We deduced that there were a team of identical dancers as she appears and disappears from rock platforms down the bed of the waterfall. It is all very theatrical and highly entertaining. I'm not sure how other wives fared but I certainly kept Peter on a short leash.
We disembarked at the end of the track at Myrdal and waited for the Bergen - Oslo train which sped us through the Hardanger National Park in the most picturesque summer conditions. There is much residual snow still and I was happy in my trusty puffer jacket.
It was a 5 hour journey stopping at many towns en route. In the end I stopped myself taking photos of spectacular scenery. My breath has truly been taken away by Norway. It was not high on my travel list but now sits right at the top.
Mind you we were very pleased to pull into Oslo at 7.00pm to be picked by Peter, our wonderful coach driver and be taken to Scandic Victoria. I'm not sure why sitting in a coach, a boat and 2 trains for 13 hours builds a healthy appetite.
Thursday, 28 June 2018
Day 10: Bergen
One of the optional tours that was a must-do for me was to Edvard Grieg's summer house, Troldhaugen (Trolls Hill) so I left Peter in peace and quiet and joined our select group of 7 Grieg fans to be taken by coach to have what surely must be a highlight of the trip. We left early in the morning and were waiting on site as they were unlocking the gates. It was an extraordinarily magical morning for Bergen at a clear, 17 degrees and not a breath of wind. Our guide has been in her job since 1983 and now wears several medals awarded by the city for her services to tourism. She is a passionate admirer of Grieg and delighted in sharing her knowledge in such tranquility. It was the 175th anniversary of Greig's birth earlier this month so there have been many concerts given throughout the city. Just standing there in the environment which was so inspirational to this great composer was a great honour. The views across the Lake were breath taking. Ibsen asked Grieg to write the music for his play "Peer Gynt " so I learned much more about these two writers whom I have revered for so many decades.
We returned to the city bustle and were joined by many of our tour group for a walking tour of the 11th century UNESCO World Heritage site led by this same guide. By then of course tourists were out and about but the tourist cruise boats had departed thank goodness so we were able to see the major features of this site without having cutesie wives and children defacing every building and artefact. It is completely beyond me to understand why men insist on standing every family member to be photographed in front of every treasure, thus obliterating them.
The tour ended at one of the historic buildings converted to a restaurant which served yet another scrumptious meal with wine. We have
not been offered a pickled herring yet. Then we were allowed an hour of shopping before we were to board the bus to return to our hotel. Fortunately Peter had taken our guide' s contact number so he was able to text her and tell her we would not be boarding the bus. We will never be in Bergen again so wanted the afternoon to explore in the sunshine.
One of the optional tours that was a must-do for me was to Edvard Grieg's summer house, Troldhaugen (Trolls Hill) so I left Peter in peace and quiet and joined our select group of 7 Grieg fans to be taken by coach to have what surely must be a highlight of the trip. We left early in the morning and were waiting on site as they were unlocking the gates. It was an extraordinarily magical morning for Bergen at a clear, 17 degrees and not a breath of wind. Our guide has been in her job since 1983 and now wears several medals awarded by the city for her services to tourism. She is a passionate admirer of Grieg and delighted in sharing her knowledge in such tranquility. It was the 175th anniversary of Greig's birth earlier this month so there have been many concerts given throughout the city. Just standing there in the environment which was so inspirational to this great composer was a great honour. The views across the Lake were breath taking. Ibsen asked Grieg to write the music for his play "Peer Gynt " so I learned much more about these two writers whom I have revered for so many decades.
We returned to the city bustle and were joined by many of our tour group for a walking tour of the 11th century UNESCO World Heritage site led by this same guide. By then of course tourists were out and about but the tourist cruise boats had departed thank goodness so we were able to see the major features of this site without having cutesie wives and children defacing every building and artefact. It is completely beyond me to understand why men insist on standing every family member to be photographed in front of every treasure, thus obliterating them.
The tour ended at one of the historic buildings converted to a restaurant which served yet another scrumptious meal with wine. We have
not been offered a pickled herring yet. Then we were allowed an hour of shopping before we were to board the bus to return to our hotel. Fortunately Peter had taken our guide' s contact number so he was able to text her and tell her we would not be boarding the bus. We will never be in Bergen again so wanted the afternoon to explore in the sunshine.
Wednesday, 27 June 2018
Day 9: Telemark
We were sorry to have to leave our hotel/chalet way up the mountains far removed from commerce or any other tourists or cruiseboats. However we pulled out at 8.00am to drive the 300kms to Bergen. It was a day of Norway's best scenic wonderland punctuated by numerous lengthy tunnels through the rocky mountainsides. Norway and NZ are the only countries to have these natural fjords. NZ is the condensed version. Apparently we were extremely fortunate to have such clear conditions. We went through magnificent green grass farms with their bales of hay known as trolls' golf balls. The only animals we saw were the goats on the shores of Lake Totak with their musical bells tied around their necks.
There are 1600 glaciers in Norway but they are rapidly receding. Most spectacular were the waterfalls with the most awesome being Latefoss Waterfall. The whole experience up in the remains of winter snows was further enhanced by Greig's Peer Gynt Suite played on the coach.
At 1.30 we arrived at the Hardanger Fjiord ferry terminal ready to line up for the 20minute crossing into Bergen. More driving through tunnels, farmlands and rural wonderland brought us into this picturesque 11th century harbor city bulging with 3 cruise ships. It was very difficult to appreciate any of it because of the density of the pedestrian and motorised traffic.
After a brief catchup with our hotel we were whisked away to an old bank which has been converted into a spectacular restaurant. Of course by then the teaming masses of cruiseboat visitors had returned to the ships which left breathing room for us. After yet another magnificent local meal we walked around to the Funicular up to Mt Floyen. What a smooth ride up the vertical side of the mountain to be transported to this viewing area of the entire city in the evening light. The sun sets here at 11.00pm and rises again at 2.00pm. The pastures up here are tended by 10 very pampered goats
who were just settling down for the night in their own purpose built chalet. They are contained in the park grounds by GPS system in their collars.
We were sorry to have to leave our hotel/chalet way up the mountains far removed from commerce or any other tourists or cruiseboats. However we pulled out at 8.00am to drive the 300kms to Bergen. It was a day of Norway's best scenic wonderland punctuated by numerous lengthy tunnels through the rocky mountainsides. Norway and NZ are the only countries to have these natural fjords. NZ is the condensed version. Apparently we were extremely fortunate to have such clear conditions. We went through magnificent green grass farms with their bales of hay known as trolls' golf balls. The only animals we saw were the goats on the shores of Lake Totak with their musical bells tied around their necks.
There are 1600 glaciers in Norway but they are rapidly receding. Most spectacular were the waterfalls with the most awesome being Latefoss Waterfall. The whole experience up in the remains of winter snows was further enhanced by Greig's Peer Gynt Suite played on the coach.
At 1.30 we arrived at the Hardanger Fjiord ferry terminal ready to line up for the 20minute crossing into Bergen. More driving through tunnels, farmlands and rural wonderland brought us into this picturesque 11th century harbor city bulging with 3 cruise ships. It was very difficult to appreciate any of it because of the density of the pedestrian and motorised traffic.
After a brief catchup with our hotel we were whisked away to an old bank which has been converted into a spectacular restaurant. Of course by then the teaming masses of cruiseboat visitors had returned to the ships which left breathing room for us. After yet another magnificent local meal we walked around to the Funicular up to Mt Floyen. What a smooth ride up the vertical side of the mountain to be transported to this viewing area of the entire city in the evening light. The sun sets here at 11.00pm and rises again at 2.00pm. The pastures up here are tended by 10 very pampered goats
who were just settling down for the night in their own purpose built chalet. They are contained in the park grounds by GPS system in their collars.
Day 8 : Oslo
I woke every 2 hours from 2.00am to make sure I missed nothing of our Oslofjord Cruise to Norway. By 6.30am I could stand it no longer and woke Peter so he could enjoy it all too. We breakfasted in style looking out at Horton, the most modern of Norway's industrial complexes and traffic centre on the west coast of the Fjord. By the time we shifted up to the viewing Deck 11 we gazed at Drobak, the Oscarborg Fortress,the narrowest point of the Fjord and then at 9.45am, into Oslo, Norway's 1000 year old capital . What an experience for 2 Kiwis who avoid cruises.
Our coach fell victim to a random Customs check. They dismantled the engine and swarmed under all the interior fittings of the coach while another team unloaded all our luggage, opened every bag and checked every item - while we sat on a deserted wharf in the blazing sun. About 2 hours later our coach was cleared and we were allowed to board. That certainly through us well behind schedule. When Peter reclaimed his case the main handle had been slit open just to make sure he had hidden no loot in the casing..
We then drove off to the largest of the 28 surviving Stave Churches. The Hedal Church was built in the early 13th century and used as a catholic church until the Reformation when it became protestant. It is still in regular use today.
We the drove via Lake Tinnsjoen to the Rjukan Valley where Hitler commandeered Vemork for the making of Heavy Water. Think "The Heroes of Telemark" movie and it will all come back to you.
We we exhausted by the time we settled into our hotel in the mountains.
I woke every 2 hours from 2.00am to make sure I missed nothing of our Oslofjord Cruise to Norway. By 6.30am I could stand it no longer and woke Peter so he could enjoy it all too. We breakfasted in style looking out at Horton, the most modern of Norway's industrial complexes and traffic centre on the west coast of the Fjord. By the time we shifted up to the viewing Deck 11 we gazed at Drobak, the Oscarborg Fortress,the narrowest point of the Fjord and then at 9.45am, into Oslo, Norway's 1000 year old capital . What an experience for 2 Kiwis who avoid cruises.
Our coach fell victim to a random Customs check. They dismantled the engine and swarmed under all the interior fittings of the coach while another team unloaded all our luggage, opened every bag and checked every item - while we sat on a deserted wharf in the blazing sun. About 2 hours later our coach was cleared and we were allowed to board. That certainly through us well behind schedule. When Peter reclaimed his case the main handle had been slit open just to make sure he had hidden no loot in the casing..
We then drove off to the largest of the 28 surviving Stave Churches. The Hedal Church was built in the early 13th century and used as a catholic church until the Reformation when it became protestant. It is still in regular use today.
We the drove via Lake Tinnsjoen to the Rjukan Valley where Hitler commandeered Vemork for the making of Heavy Water. Think "The Heroes of Telemark" movie and it will all come back to you.
We we exhausted by the time we settled into our hotel in the mountains.
Monday, 25 June 2018
Day 7: Copenhagen
A chilly, cloudy day welcomed us to a City coach tour showing us highlights of this historic town. We took in the Church of our Saviour and the Stock exchange and then the splendid 400 year old Rosenborg Castle where some of the crown jewels of Denmark are held. The Castle and contents are pretty much an authentic time capsule of life in the days of the early monarchy. Security is extremely tight for very good reason. Many of Denmarks treasures are preserved here such as the incredible Throne Chair made from narwhal tusks - the only one in the world.
We drove past the National Museum and the Royal Theatre until we disembarked to visit the famed Little Mermaid statue, remarkably similar to our Pania in Napier.
The 1 hour canal cruise was such a treat to see many distinguishing features of Denmark. We then had an hour or so to wander as the spirit moved (taking huge care to avoid the bikes.) 62% of the population use bicycles as their chief mode of transport and they give way to noone.
Then back on the coach which brought us to our ship 'Crown of Scandinavia ' for our overnight cruise to Oslow Norway. After a very chilly wine on deck watching Sweden disappear, we went into the first sitting of a magnificent buffet meal.
Half of this restaurant deck was devoted to the huge range of duty free goods. Most passengers settled into this from the moment of boarding. Each passenger is allowed 6 bottles of alcohol so one particular nationality emerged laden with their allotment. It was all too over-whelming for us, but I did return after our dinner sitting and after much searching found a Norwegian jacket that I am sure will guard me against the Norwegian/Finnish Summer. Our tour guide gave it her seal of approval and assured me it would be twice the price in Norway. Really??? And I've managed to complete this before my wifi access expires.
A chilly, cloudy day welcomed us to a City coach tour showing us highlights of this historic town. We took in the Church of our Saviour and the Stock exchange and then the splendid 400 year old Rosenborg Castle where some of the crown jewels of Denmark are held. The Castle and contents are pretty much an authentic time capsule of life in the days of the early monarchy. Security is extremely tight for very good reason. Many of Denmarks treasures are preserved here such as the incredible Throne Chair made from narwhal tusks - the only one in the world.
We drove past the National Museum and the Royal Theatre until we disembarked to visit the famed Little Mermaid statue, remarkably similar to our Pania in Napier.
The 1 hour canal cruise was such a treat to see many distinguishing features of Denmark. We then had an hour or so to wander as the spirit moved (taking huge care to avoid the bikes.) 62% of the population use bicycles as their chief mode of transport and they give way to noone.
Then back on the coach which brought us to our ship 'Crown of Scandinavia ' for our overnight cruise to Oslow Norway. After a very chilly wine on deck watching Sweden disappear, we went into the first sitting of a magnificent buffet meal.
Half of this restaurant deck was devoted to the huge range of duty free goods. Most passengers settled into this from the moment of boarding. Each passenger is allowed 6 bottles of alcohol so one particular nationality emerged laden with their allotment. It was all too over-whelming for us, but I did return after our dinner sitting and after much searching found a Norwegian jacket that I am sure will guard me against the Norwegian/Finnish Summer. Our tour guide gave it her seal of approval and assured me it would be twice the price in Norway. Really??? And I've managed to complete this before my wifi access expires.
Sunday, 24 June 2018
Day 6: Stockholm
And more sunshine! With spirits high and hearts aglow, we lept onto our trusty steed (with Peter the driver and Signe our tour guide) and were driven the 600 km to the ferry at the border of Sweden and Denmark. We drove through Christmas card forests (sans snow) and past Lake Vattern, the third largest of the 90,000 lakes in Sweden being 100kms in length. It was the flattest countryside imaginable and featured grass, barley and rapeseed farms. Farmers here keep about 20 head of cattle comfortably sheltered in barns where cows have their own mattresses. It makes for better quality milk, you know. 40% of power is produced by windmills. We drove through Husquvarna which was established in the 1930s as a highly successful industrial town producing the wide range of appliances still so popular today.
We reached the border at 3.00pm when the coach drove us into the ferry. Think our Cook Straight crossing only this was 20 minutes. You can buy duty free cigarettes for 10 minutes (the Swedes are heavy smokers) then when a horn sounds, you can stock up on alcohol. The Danes and Swedes are no longer at war but there is a fierce divide. From the ferry we could see Hamlet's castle at Ellsinore. It is just a 30 minute very flat drive to the CBD where stands our opulent Radison Blue hotel.
There was a short turnaround before we re-boarded our coach and were driven to the world famous Tivoli Gardens now celebrating their 175th anniversary. This is one big fairy-tale theme park with endless varieties of entertainment and restaurants. We scored the last table in a Germanic restaurant on the lake where I was introduced to my very first Amber Lager to accompany my Weiner Schnitzel. So far beyond what my tastebuds had experienced. We then followed this with a Danish ice cream. Well, you know, when in Denmark .... The sad thing of the day was that our coach returned at 8.30pm. We could have stayed on if we wished, but it's finding our way back that's the problem. Tivoli has now taken the #1 position in my list of theme parks. We so wished we were brave enough to stay on for the rest of the evening when the illuminations created a mind-blowing fairyland.
And more sunshine! With spirits high and hearts aglow, we lept onto our trusty steed (with Peter the driver and Signe our tour guide) and were driven the 600 km to the ferry at the border of Sweden and Denmark. We drove through Christmas card forests (sans snow) and past Lake Vattern, the third largest of the 90,000 lakes in Sweden being 100kms in length. It was the flattest countryside imaginable and featured grass, barley and rapeseed farms. Farmers here keep about 20 head of cattle comfortably sheltered in barns where cows have their own mattresses. It makes for better quality milk, you know. 40% of power is produced by windmills. We drove through Husquvarna which was established in the 1930s as a highly successful industrial town producing the wide range of appliances still so popular today.
We reached the border at 3.00pm when the coach drove us into the ferry. Think our Cook Straight crossing only this was 20 minutes. You can buy duty free cigarettes for 10 minutes (the Swedes are heavy smokers) then when a horn sounds, you can stock up on alcohol. The Danes and Swedes are no longer at war but there is a fierce divide. From the ferry we could see Hamlet's castle at Ellsinore. It is just a 30 minute very flat drive to the CBD where stands our opulent Radison Blue hotel.
There was a short turnaround before we re-boarded our coach and were driven to the world famous Tivoli Gardens now celebrating their 175th anniversary. This is one big fairy-tale theme park with endless varieties of entertainment and restaurants. We scored the last table in a Germanic restaurant on the lake where I was introduced to my very first Amber Lager to accompany my Weiner Schnitzel. So far beyond what my tastebuds had experienced. We then followed this with a Danish ice cream. Well, you know, when in Denmark .... The sad thing of the day was that our coach returned at 8.30pm. We could have stayed on if we wished, but it's finding our way back that's the problem. Tivoli has now taken the #1 position in my list of theme parks. We so wished we were brave enough to stay on for the rest of the evening when the illuminations created a mind-blowing fairyland.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)