Monday, 10th June - Pienza
Well, the day dawned bright and clear but Peter did not. I know that cough and it leads to trouble. What a shame. He did all this in Ireland 4 years ago, so really has no need to repeat the performance. However, we had no choice but to stick him on a seat on his own in the coach, strap him in and carry on regardless.
Remember the movie 'Tea with Mousilini'? That was set in San Gimignano which was our first stop today. It has a population of 7,000 and is famous for its towers which were a means of showing the wealth of the property owners. "Mine's taller than yours ". It is also the home of a magnificent piazza. After a very steep climb up the hill, (Peter found that hugely challenging), we were treated to gelato from the Gelateria Dondoli which proudly sported many awards on its front entranceway. There was a long queue but as a tour group we enjoyed priority treatment. Funnily enough there was another larger gelateria on another side of the square professing to make the best gelato in the world but noone was in the shop.
After a short bus ride we pulled in to Fattoria San Donato for an explanation of his winemaking skills and then were treated to a Tuscan lunch including homemade bread, a variety of olive oils, a salami selection, bread and mozzarella cheese, a platter of olives. Oh, and red and white wine. All the other members of the group bought gift boxes of wine, but we feel NZ wines are totally satisfactory. Anyway, Peter was too unwell to partake of the lunch let alone buy wine.
The bus trip for the next hour was extremely quiet punctuated only by gentle snoring until we reached Siena with its population of 53,000. It is one of the 58 UNESCO sites in Italy famed for its cathedral which was built in the 12th century. It is considered the most ornamented in Europe. It required a very steep long walk through the narrow winding streets which were very hot with the brutal crowds of tourists. This proved too much for Peter, so we hailed a taxi which took him back to the shade and peace and quiet of the bus. Much to my surprise, our guide insisted on looking after Peter while I went to the Cathedral. Oh, my goodness. I can see why. Is this my favourite? Judging from the number of photos, it just could be. I was very grateful to Mario for his care of the situation thus giving me the opportunity to see this magnificent piece of architecture.
Another hour's drive we climbed 500 meters above sea level to the incredible accommodation booked for us in the 15th century Franciscan Covent which was restored in 1993. The Covent is beside the 13th century San Francesco church and is a good central point from which to view Siena, Frienze, Arrezzo, Perugia, Assissi, and Orvieto. The town has the usual array of superb cuisine, but I really felt Peter needed vegetable soup (for which the waiter brought knife and fork) followed by a nice quiet vanilla gelato. As for me, vino bianco, wild boar stew and gelato just to check its suitability for Peter, you understand.
We're now settled in our vast 3 roomed suite and 4 poster bed into which Peter has sunk and floated off to dreamland. Let's hope he is vastly improved in the morning. There is too much fun organized for him to be poorly.
Monday, 10 June 2019
Sunday, 9 June 2019
Sunday 9 June - Volterra
After yet another night's painful intermittent sleep on a rock hard slab, we levered ourselves onto our little coach and drove for a couple of hours to Pisa with its resident population of 120,000. Its tourist population is beyond calculation. Constant swarms come to view its famed leaning tower which was closed in 1990 to give it additional support to stop it leaning further. It was straightened only by 80 centimeters so that the tourist trade could continue. EVERYBODY wanted their classic photo of standing in the most grotesque poses so the photo made it look as if they were holding it up. Peter and I did not stoop to such common stupidity. The Pisa Cathedral was started to be built in 1115AD but took 5 centuries to be completed. Being a Sunday we were only allowed to stand at the back so as not to interrupt the ritual. The organ was in full throttle as we entered but unfortunately came to the closing cadences. However we stayed in the cool peace for some of the Gregorian chanting until it was time for the Baptistry to be opened to the public following a baptism. Do you know that the people who do were still posing in their stupidity in front of the Gothic pulpit which is considered to be the most beautiful in Europe. I think such behaviour is sacrilegious . In the Cathedral is the lamp that Galileo used to assist in his planetary theories that caused him to be imprisoned for daring to contradict the catholic belief that the sun revolved around the earth. Mercifully he was not beheaded so somebody had some appreciation of scientific theory back in the day.
We could not handle tourists' crass behaviour so found ourselves a haven for the cappuccino and loo ritual in a shady spot around where the tourist horses and carriages were waiting their turn to clop these people who needed to be photographed around the town once they'd finished holding the leaning tower. We sat down at a table next to a German couple. The wife had just fallen down a curb or a cobblestone and either broken or badly sprained her ankle. So, so easy. It certainly slowed us down Fortunately they were with a group, so the official tour leader was making arrangements for her care.
At 12.30 we took refuge from the crippling heat and returned to our beautifully air conditioned little coach, and to the accompaniment of Botticelli who was born in Pisa, we were driven along the Aurelia Highway to Volterra. Both Peter and I considered that the tenor we heard in Lucca last evening was way better than Botticelli but we would not dare confess to that opinion in public. This medieval town is built on a plateau and archeologists have found proof of a 10,000 year history. We were taken through the town to view the remains of an unrestored Roman Theatre and then to our enchanting Tuscan hotel. It was great to be told we were free until 8.15am tomorrow. What with the heat of the afternoon sun, and our two sleep-deprived nights we had reached the end of our interest in anything else old. We were consumed with our own oldness.
However, after a couple of hours sleep on a mattress that did give us comfortable support, we sallied forth after 6pm when the sun had less ferocity and slowly ambled back up the steep slopes to the town centre where there had been great festivities and merriment at a Mystery and Magic festival for which many of the locals had dressed in such entertaining costumes. People had flocked from other regions to be part of the fun, but we thoroughly enjoyed our diligent research into pina coladas. All the shops were still open and crowds had emerged in the cool of the evening to eat, drink and be merry. Such fun. There is no alcohol abuse throughout Italy because there is no restriction on its consumption. Interesting to see this attitude put into practice. I would have thought that at the end of such a Festival of celebration the town would have been littered with drunken youths and their disgusting rubbish. Not a bit if it.
So we found ourselves a little Tuscan crepery and enjoyed our accompanying chianti in peace and quiet.
After yet another night's painful intermittent sleep on a rock hard slab, we levered ourselves onto our little coach and drove for a couple of hours to Pisa with its resident population of 120,000. Its tourist population is beyond calculation. Constant swarms come to view its famed leaning tower which was closed in 1990 to give it additional support to stop it leaning further. It was straightened only by 80 centimeters so that the tourist trade could continue. EVERYBODY wanted their classic photo of standing in the most grotesque poses so the photo made it look as if they were holding it up. Peter and I did not stoop to such common stupidity. The Pisa Cathedral was started to be built in 1115AD but took 5 centuries to be completed. Being a Sunday we were only allowed to stand at the back so as not to interrupt the ritual. The organ was in full throttle as we entered but unfortunately came to the closing cadences. However we stayed in the cool peace for some of the Gregorian chanting until it was time for the Baptistry to be opened to the public following a baptism. Do you know that the people who do were still posing in their stupidity in front of the Gothic pulpit which is considered to be the most beautiful in Europe. I think such behaviour is sacrilegious . In the Cathedral is the lamp that Galileo used to assist in his planetary theories that caused him to be imprisoned for daring to contradict the catholic belief that the sun revolved around the earth. Mercifully he was not beheaded so somebody had some appreciation of scientific theory back in the day.
We could not handle tourists' crass behaviour so found ourselves a haven for the cappuccino and loo ritual in a shady spot around where the tourist horses and carriages were waiting their turn to clop these people who needed to be photographed around the town once they'd finished holding the leaning tower. We sat down at a table next to a German couple. The wife had just fallen down a curb or a cobblestone and either broken or badly sprained her ankle. So, so easy. It certainly slowed us down Fortunately they were with a group, so the official tour leader was making arrangements for her care.
At 12.30 we took refuge from the crippling heat and returned to our beautifully air conditioned little coach, and to the accompaniment of Botticelli who was born in Pisa, we were driven along the Aurelia Highway to Volterra. Both Peter and I considered that the tenor we heard in Lucca last evening was way better than Botticelli but we would not dare confess to that opinion in public. This medieval town is built on a plateau and archeologists have found proof of a 10,000 year history. We were taken through the town to view the remains of an unrestored Roman Theatre and then to our enchanting Tuscan hotel. It was great to be told we were free until 8.15am tomorrow. What with the heat of the afternoon sun, and our two sleep-deprived nights we had reached the end of our interest in anything else old. We were consumed with our own oldness.
However, after a couple of hours sleep on a mattress that did give us comfortable support, we sallied forth after 6pm when the sun had less ferocity and slowly ambled back up the steep slopes to the town centre where there had been great festivities and merriment at a Mystery and Magic festival for which many of the locals had dressed in such entertaining costumes. People had flocked from other regions to be part of the fun, but we thoroughly enjoyed our diligent research into pina coladas. All the shops were still open and crowds had emerged in the cool of the evening to eat, drink and be merry. Such fun. There is no alcohol abuse throughout Italy because there is no restriction on its consumption. Interesting to see this attitude put into practice. I would have thought that at the end of such a Festival of celebration the town would have been littered with drunken youths and their disgusting rubbish. Not a bit if it.
So we found ourselves a little Tuscan crepery and enjoyed our accompanying chianti in peace and quiet.
Saturday, 8 June 2019
Saturday 8 June, Lucca
Today has been one of those rare days in my life where absolutely every moment was far superior to anything I have experienced. I have looked at friends' photos and heard their travellers' tales for years, never thinking I would share their euphoria but there we were on our little bus on our way to La Spezia by 8.15am where we boarded our boat to go to the 5 villages that constitute the Cinque Terre.
En route we drove through Carrara, famed for its white, black, grey and green marble which we could see in the mountains. Pink marble is only found in Lessini and is far more expensive. Italy with its population of 60 million has four industries: automobile manufacture, agriculture, tourism and soccer. We drove for 1 1/2 hours through many lengthy tunnels, across the Margara River to reach La Spezia, a pretty harbour city of 80,000 people. We made our way through throngs of tourists, each group headed by a flag -waving guide, onto our cruise boat taking us to Vernazza, Riomaggiore, and Monterosso, three of the hamlets located on the West coast of the Riveria. Cameras clicked constantly. At first the skies were clear Kodak-blue, but as we continued a sea mist arose creating a setting for Peter Jackson's next movie. This was so mystical but certainly blighted the photos. The sea rose making alighting at the little hamlets challenging for some. However when we finally disembarked for lunch at Monterossa the skies cleared again to reveal the magic of the UNESCO heritage site.
Peter and I found ourselves a superb restaurante for a sea bass lunch, which I felt needed accompanying with a bottle of chianti. Peter was far more restrained but I needed to celebrate my grandson's birthday and welcome Edward into his teenage years in suitable Italian style.
A couple of hours later we met up with our group again to board the train to Levanto where our bus was waiting. We managed to score front seats in the bus for the first time on our trip, so could really soak up the glorious scenery along the Aurelian Road which was built 1,900 years ago by the Romans. It is the second oldest highway in Italy.
We had a brief time to change and then group with all the guests in our boutique San Marino & Diana Hotel for cocktail hour which offered a wide array of finger food and wines. I preferred Prosecco.
Our tour guide Mario had told us about a concert at the Santi Giovanni Cathedral one block away, celebrating the work of Puccini who was born in Lucca in 1858. We were astonished that only 1 other of our group was interested in attending, preferring extended cocktails or shopping or resting. For goodness sake, they could do all of that once they got home. So just three of us turned up for what turned out to be a soul-stirring performance of a variety of opera numbers sung by two grand opera singers and a spine-tingling piano medley of Wagner's finest. The pianist accompanied the singers in appropriately unassuming style, but when opportunity arose with his solo, he proved himself to be a virtuoso in his own right. And all this in a majestic cathedral built for its acoustics.
So you can tell that the whole day exhibited the finest that Italy has to offer all within a space of 12 hours. Off to Pisa in the morning.
Today has been one of those rare days in my life where absolutely every moment was far superior to anything I have experienced. I have looked at friends' photos and heard their travellers' tales for years, never thinking I would share their euphoria but there we were on our little bus on our way to La Spezia by 8.15am where we boarded our boat to go to the 5 villages that constitute the Cinque Terre.
En route we drove through Carrara, famed for its white, black, grey and green marble which we could see in the mountains. Pink marble is only found in Lessini and is far more expensive. Italy with its population of 60 million has four industries: automobile manufacture, agriculture, tourism and soccer. We drove for 1 1/2 hours through many lengthy tunnels, across the Margara River to reach La Spezia, a pretty harbour city of 80,000 people. We made our way through throngs of tourists, each group headed by a flag -waving guide, onto our cruise boat taking us to Vernazza, Riomaggiore, and Monterosso, three of the hamlets located on the West coast of the Riveria. Cameras clicked constantly. At first the skies were clear Kodak-blue, but as we continued a sea mist arose creating a setting for Peter Jackson's next movie. This was so mystical but certainly blighted the photos. The sea rose making alighting at the little hamlets challenging for some. However when we finally disembarked for lunch at Monterossa the skies cleared again to reveal the magic of the UNESCO heritage site.
Peter and I found ourselves a superb restaurante for a sea bass lunch, which I felt needed accompanying with a bottle of chianti. Peter was far more restrained but I needed to celebrate my grandson's birthday and welcome Edward into his teenage years in suitable Italian style.
A couple of hours later we met up with our group again to board the train to Levanto where our bus was waiting. We managed to score front seats in the bus for the first time on our trip, so could really soak up the glorious scenery along the Aurelian Road which was built 1,900 years ago by the Romans. It is the second oldest highway in Italy.
We had a brief time to change and then group with all the guests in our boutique San Marino & Diana Hotel for cocktail hour which offered a wide array of finger food and wines. I preferred Prosecco.
Our tour guide Mario had told us about a concert at the Santi Giovanni Cathedral one block away, celebrating the work of Puccini who was born in Lucca in 1858. We were astonished that only 1 other of our group was interested in attending, preferring extended cocktails or shopping or resting. For goodness sake, they could do all of that once they got home. So just three of us turned up for what turned out to be a soul-stirring performance of a variety of opera numbers sung by two grand opera singers and a spine-tingling piano medley of Wagner's finest. The pianist accompanied the singers in appropriately unassuming style, but when opportunity arose with his solo, he proved himself to be a virtuoso in his own right. And all this in a majestic cathedral built for its acoustics.
So you can tell that the whole day exhibited the finest that Italy has to offer all within a space of 12 hours. Off to Pisa in the morning.
Friday, 7 June 2019
Friday, 7 June - Lucca
This morning we met our Backroads tour group of 16 travellers and Mario our guide. 4 couples are from NZ so it is just great to have some ordinary companions who speak normally. Although we assembled at 8.00 in Florence, we didn't set off until 9.00 and that was on a walking tour of Florence CBD. So we had seen and photographed all the points of interest, but had no idea of what we were admiring.
Josephine you asked about the Duomo photos from yesterday. I can now tell you that it was started in 1296 and intended to be the biggest and best cathedral in Europe. The basic building was completed 150 years later, but by then other cities had outdone them, so additions had to be built. Talk about one-up-manship. The Dome was added in 1420. It actually is in 2 parts and has 463 steps inside to enable folk to get to the top and see the view. Architects are still investigating the remarkable construction which has never been replicated. The adjacent Baptistry was built in the 11th century. It is far more ornate on the inside but its gold doors were added in in 1452. They were originally made of bronze covered in gold leaf, but in 1990 they were removed into safety and what we admired were just replicas. All fascinating when somebody tells you. Both the church itself and the Baptistry can be entered at a large fee when booked well in advance.
We were left for 2 hours in the plaza for lunch and shopping which suited our fellow travellers who had no earlier shopping experience. I have now met my 23kg limit so am confined from here on to window shopping. Peter however was talked into the purchase of a genuine leather satchel which I feel will be extremely useful when he needs something with more class than his old trusty canvas bag.
At 1.00 we boarded our small Backroads van and made the 1 1/2 hour trip through the magical Tuscan landscape to our quaint hotel in Lucca, a walled 16th century city of 90,00 people. Our Mario guide took us on a walking tour around this beautiful Etruscan city.
Tonight we enjoy a banquet - Lucca style.
This morning we met our Backroads tour group of 16 travellers and Mario our guide. 4 couples are from NZ so it is just great to have some ordinary companions who speak normally. Although we assembled at 8.00 in Florence, we didn't set off until 9.00 and that was on a walking tour of Florence CBD. So we had seen and photographed all the points of interest, but had no idea of what we were admiring.
Josephine you asked about the Duomo photos from yesterday. I can now tell you that it was started in 1296 and intended to be the biggest and best cathedral in Europe. The basic building was completed 150 years later, but by then other cities had outdone them, so additions had to be built. Talk about one-up-manship. The Dome was added in 1420. It actually is in 2 parts and has 463 steps inside to enable folk to get to the top and see the view. Architects are still investigating the remarkable construction which has never been replicated. The adjacent Baptistry was built in the 11th century. It is far more ornate on the inside but its gold doors were added in in 1452. They were originally made of bronze covered in gold leaf, but in 1990 they were removed into safety and what we admired were just replicas. All fascinating when somebody tells you. Both the church itself and the Baptistry can be entered at a large fee when booked well in advance.
We were left for 2 hours in the plaza for lunch and shopping which suited our fellow travellers who had no earlier shopping experience. I have now met my 23kg limit so am confined from here on to window shopping. Peter however was talked into the purchase of a genuine leather satchel which I feel will be extremely useful when he needs something with more class than his old trusty canvas bag.
At 1.00 we boarded our small Backroads van and made the 1 1/2 hour trip through the magical Tuscan landscape to our quaint hotel in Lucca, a walled 16th century city of 90,00 people. Our Mario guide took us on a walking tour around this beautiful Etruscan city.
Tonight we enjoy a banquet - Lucca style.
Thursday, 6 June 2019
Thursday, 6 June, Florence
Having realised how little of this city we could do at our pace we decided to target the Ufizzi Gallery in the morning and then do the red hop- on-hop- off bus tour which we'd already paid for before. The Gallery is just a 10 minute walk from us down by the River Arno. Our hotel concierge assured us we would not get in as we hadn't booked. But being Kiwis, we bowled along anyway. And got in. Sure we had to pay a bit extra for priority entry but it was that or give it a miss. The vastness of the collection was far, far beyond our experience. We gasped in awe for 2 1/2 hours and then needed a coffee. An overwhelming experience.
So then off to a bus-stop but had to wait 50 minutes for the next red bus to arrive. It's this sort of constraint that limits what you can achieve in a day. Our backs and feet were so just so relieved to be able to get a top deck seat and sit on it. The weather was overcast today which was so much better, allowing us to see much more. Also miraculously we picked a seat with sound and English commentary. Not a common occurence.
Florence , known as the jewel of the Renaissence, used to be the capital of Italy. It is a city of flowers and romantics. I was thrilled by the luxurious greenery , bright beds of flowers and vibrant birdsong. Of course we're in Tuscany now so think "Under the Tuscan Sun". Melodious music surrounds the traveler and lures her further into the hills above the thronging city. We wished we had time to alight at every one of the stops on offer but we must be content with a superficial coverage.
When we had completed the 2 hour circuit, we walked down to the Ponte Vecchio which spans the River Arno. It is here that gold merchants built their house-shops, and it was packed with tourists craning their necks to view the billions of Euros of gold jewelry on display. No price tags were attached and the doors were all closed to the ogling tourists. Through these glass doors, we could see genuine buyers seated at elegant tables with sophisticated sales assistants enticing wealthy clients. Fascinating. I did manage to gain entry to one shop to view a pretty little simple gold bangle, but was not offered a seat. I even got to try it on and so glanced at the price tag of €380.00. I hummed and hahed for an appropriate time and then said it wasn't quite what I was looking for. Peter was relieved when I emerged.
Tomorrow we need to be at our pickup hotel by 8.00 am to join our Backroads tour of Tuscany.
Having realised how little of this city we could do at our pace we decided to target the Ufizzi Gallery in the morning and then do the red hop- on-hop- off bus tour which we'd already paid for before. The Gallery is just a 10 minute walk from us down by the River Arno. Our hotel concierge assured us we would not get in as we hadn't booked. But being Kiwis, we bowled along anyway. And got in. Sure we had to pay a bit extra for priority entry but it was that or give it a miss. The vastness of the collection was far, far beyond our experience. We gasped in awe for 2 1/2 hours and then needed a coffee. An overwhelming experience.
So then off to a bus-stop but had to wait 50 minutes for the next red bus to arrive. It's this sort of constraint that limits what you can achieve in a day. Our backs and feet were so just so relieved to be able to get a top deck seat and sit on it. The weather was overcast today which was so much better, allowing us to see much more. Also miraculously we picked a seat with sound and English commentary. Not a common occurence.
Florence , known as the jewel of the Renaissence, used to be the capital of Italy. It is a city of flowers and romantics. I was thrilled by the luxurious greenery , bright beds of flowers and vibrant birdsong. Of course we're in Tuscany now so think "Under the Tuscan Sun". Melodious music surrounds the traveler and lures her further into the hills above the thronging city. We wished we had time to alight at every one of the stops on offer but we must be content with a superficial coverage.
When we had completed the 2 hour circuit, we walked down to the Ponte Vecchio which spans the River Arno. It is here that gold merchants built their house-shops, and it was packed with tourists craning their necks to view the billions of Euros of gold jewelry on display. No price tags were attached and the doors were all closed to the ogling tourists. Through these glass doors, we could see genuine buyers seated at elegant tables with sophisticated sales assistants enticing wealthy clients. Fascinating. I did manage to gain entry to one shop to view a pretty little simple gold bangle, but was not offered a seat. I even got to try it on and so glanced at the price tag of €380.00. I hummed and hahed for an appropriate time and then said it wasn't quite what I was looking for. Peter was relieved when I emerged.
Tomorrow we need to be at our pickup hotel by 8.00 am to join our Backroads tour of Tuscany.
Wednesday, 5 June 2019
Wednesday 5 June, Florence
We arrived at our Borghese Palace Art Hotel at 11.58 last night and were given such an enthusiastic welcome by the receptionist who gave us a map and showed us all the places we needed to visit in our 2 days in this fair city. What I actually wanted was a cup of tea, and bless her, off she trotted to get me that as well.
What a maze this place is. Per courtesy of Maps Me we found our way to the hop-on-hop-off terminal but it's about half an hour's walk from here. Perhaps we'll manage better tomorrow. It's really hazardous having hundreds of tourists wandering along the narrow cobblestone alleyways with their eyes fixed on their mobiles. We missed so much of the wonders en route to our bus but fell thankfully into the arms of a woman who sold us everything on offer, pushed us on to a bus and sent us on our way telling us to alight at Stop 8. I did ask Peter later what was at that particular stop but he was even more confused than I. It was too hot to sit upstairs so we trundled along downstairs, seeing I don't know what as the earphones didn't work. When we alighted, there before us was a magnificent panorama of the whole of Florence!!!! Oh my!!!!! Turn around and there was David (just a replica you understand) right behind us. It just took our breath away.
However it was too hot to stand in that sun for any longer, so we hopped on another bus and again stayed downstairs. Suddenly I heard Boboli Gardens announced so Peter found his earplugs pulled out and he was standing on a different footpath. I had read about these gardens in the flight magazine coming up here so wanted to go there. Well, here we were. Peter needed a cappuccino first so we found a delightful supplier and some incredible delicacies which fitted us to explore these gardens, wherever they were. I was able to ask an approachable young woman "Dove Boboli Gardens per favore?" , and off we strode. What a paradise they are, modelled on Italian Gardens from 16th century with a vast array of sculptures. These included a contemporary collection by Tony Cragg, providing a sharp contrast with all the Renaissance figures. Peter just enjoyed sitting in the shade in one of the arbors listening to the shrilling birdsong. Truly remarkable.
When we returned from the city circuit some time later we searched for the Leonardo Da Vinchi museum, tickets for which our guide had sold us in the morning. By then we were more able to lift our heads ( as well as our feet) and take in some of the sights. Eventually we came across the inconspicuous doorway of the museum, handed in our tickets, and were enthralled by this collection of Da Vinci's work. Again we stayed for some considerable time soaking it all in.
I don't think we can do Florence in 2 days.
We arrived at our Borghese Palace Art Hotel at 11.58 last night and were given such an enthusiastic welcome by the receptionist who gave us a map and showed us all the places we needed to visit in our 2 days in this fair city. What I actually wanted was a cup of tea, and bless her, off she trotted to get me that as well.
What a maze this place is. Per courtesy of Maps Me we found our way to the hop-on-hop-off terminal but it's about half an hour's walk from here. Perhaps we'll manage better tomorrow. It's really hazardous having hundreds of tourists wandering along the narrow cobblestone alleyways with their eyes fixed on their mobiles. We missed so much of the wonders en route to our bus but fell thankfully into the arms of a woman who sold us everything on offer, pushed us on to a bus and sent us on our way telling us to alight at Stop 8. I did ask Peter later what was at that particular stop but he was even more confused than I. It was too hot to sit upstairs so we trundled along downstairs, seeing I don't know what as the earphones didn't work. When we alighted, there before us was a magnificent panorama of the whole of Florence!!!! Oh my!!!!! Turn around and there was David (just a replica you understand) right behind us. It just took our breath away.
However it was too hot to stand in that sun for any longer, so we hopped on another bus and again stayed downstairs. Suddenly I heard Boboli Gardens announced so Peter found his earplugs pulled out and he was standing on a different footpath. I had read about these gardens in the flight magazine coming up here so wanted to go there. Well, here we were. Peter needed a cappuccino first so we found a delightful supplier and some incredible delicacies which fitted us to explore these gardens, wherever they were. I was able to ask an approachable young woman "Dove Boboli Gardens per favore?" , and off we strode. What a paradise they are, modelled on Italian Gardens from 16th century with a vast array of sculptures. These included a contemporary collection by Tony Cragg, providing a sharp contrast with all the Renaissance figures. Peter just enjoyed sitting in the shade in one of the arbors listening to the shrilling birdsong. Truly remarkable.
When we returned from the city circuit some time later we searched for the Leonardo Da Vinchi museum, tickets for which our guide had sold us in the morning. By then we were more able to lift our heads ( as well as our feet) and take in some of the sights. Eventually we came across the inconspicuous doorway of the museum, handed in our tickets, and were enthralled by this collection of Da Vinci's work. Again we stayed for some considerable time soaking it all in.
I don't think we can do Florence in 2 days.
Monday, 3 June 2019
Monday 3 June - St Julian's
We have just completed our final day here. Tomorrow we fly to Rome then wait for an age for our flight to Florence. There will be no diary entry for that lot. We land just before midnight so by the time we settle in to our hotel, it will be past my bed-time. Mind you, there may be time to do some catching up on personal mail instead of this generic broadsheet.
So top of the list was the Malta classic car museum which is located right at the Northern most tip of Malta. This is where Echocabs comes to the rescue. It's comparable to our Uber except that they take cash only as payment. Dangerous for the driver I would have thought, but they don't seem to have a crime problem in this country
So 10 minutes after Peter ordered a car, up he turned to our front gate in his late Peugot and then whizzed us James Bond style to the northern point and then couldn't find said museum. He was a very cool young man with much testosterone and minimal English. However eventually he got us to the front entrance after driving us around many blocks. Kind of dampened his image somewhat.
The street frontage sported a replica Bugatti and 2 very glamorous Italian receptionists who welcomed us warmly. The next 2 hours melted away into one of the most magnificent collections of classic cars we have visited. The museum actually restores and sells them world wide so they are all in mint condition.
Once we finally emerged into daylight again there was nothing for it but to patronize the Sicilian caffe next door. I resisted the racotta delicacies right around Sicily but thought I should at least try one before we leave. Oh my, that's why Sicilians are the shape they are. I certainly don't need another, ever.
So another echocab materialized about 5 minutes after Peter ordered one, but this time with a charming sedate senior drive who gave us a fabulous return trip together with delightful conversation.
The afternoon was spent in a serious appreciation of the elusive St John's Co-cathedral of Valetta. No queue!!!!! We just walked straight in. Extraordinary. The building has been described as a unique, holy museum/ Baroque art gallery . It was built between 1573 and 1578 as a place for the Knights of St John to gather for communal worship. One of its greatest treasures is a huge painting of John the Baptist by Caravaggio. I photographed it but for those of you not on fb, you have missed nothing. It is beyond photography. We have had three attempts at experiencing this monumental edifice, and our persistence was well worth while.
Peter and I then parted company for the first time in 3 weeks. He had made arrangements to attend a Property Investors meeting and I to attend an Inner Wheel one. We had expected to meet up again at the end of the evening, but Peter's meeting was just a brief business committee meeting with no social frills, so he was able to join me to attend my dinner which was all frills. We met up with 4 delightful Maltese women who were just out for an evening's fun,and then 2 sisters of one of them joined us. The woman who will be the in-coming president is a major TV presenter with her own programme. What a personality!!! Actually each one of them was a character in her own way. They didn't seem interested in having any connection with anyone outside their club. However they were so gracious to Peter and me and paid for yet another sumptuous meal. We had a charming evening together. I doubt they will want to keep in contact. I was sitting next to the member who is the International service officer. She was not the person who eventually answered any of my emails and gave all the inter club material and NZ post cards I had taken to another member without so much as looking at them. She was born in Malta and not ever been out of Malta, nor as it turned out, remotely interested in anything but Malta. Very funny.
We have just completed our final day here. Tomorrow we fly to Rome then wait for an age for our flight to Florence. There will be no diary entry for that lot. We land just before midnight so by the time we settle in to our hotel, it will be past my bed-time. Mind you, there may be time to do some catching up on personal mail instead of this generic broadsheet.
So top of the list was the Malta classic car museum which is located right at the Northern most tip of Malta. This is where Echocabs comes to the rescue. It's comparable to our Uber except that they take cash only as payment. Dangerous for the driver I would have thought, but they don't seem to have a crime problem in this country
So 10 minutes after Peter ordered a car, up he turned to our front gate in his late Peugot and then whizzed us James Bond style to the northern point and then couldn't find said museum. He was a very cool young man with much testosterone and minimal English. However eventually he got us to the front entrance after driving us around many blocks. Kind of dampened his image somewhat.
The street frontage sported a replica Bugatti and 2 very glamorous Italian receptionists who welcomed us warmly. The next 2 hours melted away into one of the most magnificent collections of classic cars we have visited. The museum actually restores and sells them world wide so they are all in mint condition.
Once we finally emerged into daylight again there was nothing for it but to patronize the Sicilian caffe next door. I resisted the racotta delicacies right around Sicily but thought I should at least try one before we leave. Oh my, that's why Sicilians are the shape they are. I certainly don't need another, ever.
So another echocab materialized about 5 minutes after Peter ordered one, but this time with a charming sedate senior drive who gave us a fabulous return trip together with delightful conversation.
The afternoon was spent in a serious appreciation of the elusive St John's Co-cathedral of Valetta. No queue!!!!! We just walked straight in. Extraordinary. The building has been described as a unique, holy museum/ Baroque art gallery . It was built between 1573 and 1578 as a place for the Knights of St John to gather for communal worship. One of its greatest treasures is a huge painting of John the Baptist by Caravaggio. I photographed it but for those of you not on fb, you have missed nothing. It is beyond photography. We have had three attempts at experiencing this monumental edifice, and our persistence was well worth while.
Peter and I then parted company for the first time in 3 weeks. He had made arrangements to attend a Property Investors meeting and I to attend an Inner Wheel one. We had expected to meet up again at the end of the evening, but Peter's meeting was just a brief business committee meeting with no social frills, so he was able to join me to attend my dinner which was all frills. We met up with 4 delightful Maltese women who were just out for an evening's fun,and then 2 sisters of one of them joined us. The woman who will be the in-coming president is a major TV presenter with her own programme. What a personality!!! Actually each one of them was a character in her own way. They didn't seem interested in having any connection with anyone outside their club. However they were so gracious to Peter and me and paid for yet another sumptuous meal. We had a charming evening together. I doubt they will want to keep in contact. I was sitting next to the member who is the International service officer. She was not the person who eventually answered any of my emails and gave all the inter club material and NZ post cards I had taken to another member without so much as looking at them. She was born in Malta and not ever been out of Malta, nor as it turned out, remotely interested in anything but Malta. Very funny.
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