Friday, 15 July 2016

Sun 10 July - Broome to Fitzroy Crossing
Bus departed at 8.00 am for the 2,70 km trip to Darwin. A long tedious journey all morning stopping for a couple of comfort stops only and at the Boab Prisoner Tree which acted as an overnight holding cell for indigenous Australians on their way to Derby for sentencing. Hundreds were taken on to Broome and forced to work in the Pearl shell industry.
In the afternoon we were taken on a welcome cruise to Geike Gorge to wonder at the awesome colours and structure of the Gorge's stone walls. During the wet season, the Fitzroy River rises over 16 metres, staining the limestone walls of the gorge and flooding the entire national park with 7 metres of water. We shared the cruise with freshwater crocodiles,  fruit bats and wallabies. The sky had clouded over for us and temperatures had dropped. However it was very hard to resist photographing endless stunning rock panaramas and their reflections. So many photos will have to be deleted.

Saturday, 9 July 2016

Sat 9 July
The day began with Peter arising at 6 am to take a Hovercraft flight on Roebuck Bay to view the dinosaur footprints calcified in the rocks.
I sallied forth later to watch the camel train arriving for its day's trek. How I wished I had booked myself in before everyone else had. The resident population of Broome is 15,000, but at this time of year it swells to 50,000. And they all want a camel ride.
Peter returned from his trip in time for us to enjoy a coach tour around Broome and environs, then 5 of us were dropped off in town for the Pearl luggers tour. I was astonished that only 3 men and 2 women were interested. The rest were just driven back to the resort.
Broome rose to fame from the popularity of pearl buttons and many hundreds of divers died in the quest for same. Aboriginal were herded from the Inland and forced to dive for the Pearl shell in the late 19th century. It was not until the 20th century that huge suits , weights and helmets were devised so that divers could be forced to go down from sunrise to sunset collecting the shell. Many divers died of the bends, but Japanese and Malays were eager to try as they were well paid. Virtually no improvement was made in the gear until the 1950s when plastic buttons were invented and the bottom dropped out of the market.
The diving life span was about 5 years before the effects of the bends took toil on the men and forced them into a miserable retirement.  Some men lasted for 10 years. The hero of the industry was Norrie who dived continuously for 25 years with no ill effects whatsoever. No medical explanation was ever made as to the reason for his thriving career in what had killed or maimed hundreds of other divers.
Now pearl farming has become a much more sophisticated operation with no human loss of life.
After the tour I had budgeted for the purchase of some Broome pearls. But first, some lunch. By the time I got myself into the main street to start seriously looking, all the shops had shut. Of course. It was race day. The town had emptied.  I was lucky enough to be able to catch myself a public bus back to the resort for a swim. This was my first since the years of my ulcerated leg so was actually a great occasion to be marked by Pina coladas by the pool like posh people do.
Luggage outside the door by 6.45 tomorrow morning.

Friday, 8 July 2016

Fri 8 July
I crept out of bed while Peter was still snoring and ran down to Cable Beach to see the camels assembling ready for the sunrise rides. There were about three seats vacant. If only I had grabbed my credit card I could have joined the trek!! Of course the next two days are fully booked being the weekend. Hi-de-Ho. I trundle back to join Peter for breakfast, and off we set for our adventures.
There is a bus that circuits Broome every half hour so for $10 we could buy an all day ticket. It was so INTERESTING going around all the resorts and then off into the CBD. First port of call was the I-site for maps. The only wifi centres were the library and Macdonald so we trudged around in the searing heat to get to Macdonalds,  coffee, pineapple and coffee loaf plus wifi. By the time we had caught up with our NZ business, it was even hotter, but Peter had his own agenda so off we went. Planes had landed at strategic spots so sites needed to be visited and photographed. It wasn't all bad as we had stumbled into the famed pearl centre. WOW!!! I have never seen pearl jewellery comparable. With one flash of my credit card I could have paid the deposit on any one of incredible pieces. Just magnificent to behold. Then we found the Pearl farm I will be touring tomorrow so it was great to have a quiet introduction to it.
Then back on the bus to the Museum which was splendid. Peter was enthralled by all the aviation history while I was absorbed by the ruthless history of pearling.
Back into town by bus and refreshed by a mango smoothie. Then back on the next bus to get ready for our meet and greet with our tour group. There's 32 of us, all over 60 Australians and another couple of kiwis whom we didn't find. Complimentary bubbles followed by a three course dinner in the Sunset Bar. We have a very sociable female tour guide who was ever so obliging but not organised at all.
Peter didn't want to waste his time tomorrow on pearls and chose a far more appropriate hovercraft option. All was fine until we were informed that one of the craft has broken down, so there will be two trips tomorrow,  one leaving at 5.40 am and the next at 6.40 am. Mercifully Peter has been drafted on to the later one which is still far too early for that owl. Such a shame. My pearl tour starts at 10.00 am. Aren't I the lucky one.
We have been warned that we'll be beyond wifi contact range for the trip so I may not be talking to you again until Darwin on 18 July.. I have brought a diary and a pen so will keep a record of events by pen and paper.

Thursday, 7 July 2016

Thurs 7 July - Happy 12th birthday Freya!
All we had to do this morning was have breakfast, pack our bags and drive to the airport. And so we did,  but no sign told us where to park our rental car. So we drove in ever-increasgly frenetic circles until we eventually found the Hertz drop-off point.  Brilliant! We locked the car and started to walk off somewhere when a man asked us which airline we were flying with. Oh! Virgin? Not from here you're not. You need to be the other side of the airport. So we lept back in and drove for 10mins. Then of course that man wanted all the paperwork we had left at our first point. However we looked sufficiently traumatized that he said "just go" and yes, we did stagger on to the right plane at the right time.
It took us the whole 2 1/2 hour flight to recover but we disembarked into a tropical paradise. The resort van was there to pick us up and bring us to this Cable Bay Resort which is so far beyond my expectations. This is peak tourist season here, so the place is a-buzz with people escaping winter blues. We have watched the weather report this evening a nd seen a huge storm moving into Perth - on the same day that we've moved out. Taiwan is being hit as is NZ but we have superb 30 C temperatures.  How lucky is that.
We were greeted with a glass of champagne and shown to our upstairs suite overlooking the adults only pool. We were told that sunset was at 5.30 so decided to wander across the vast compound to the beach. SURPRISE! Hundreds of people had gathered on Cable Bay to witness the glorious sunset and the return of the camel train. Outrageously exciting.. Great groups were gathered on the sands for barbecues and hundreds of large safari vehicles were returning from doing whatever safari vehicles do. The camels were led past us having earned their keep for the day.
We were warned to make a booking for one of the 7 restaurants as the Resort is full. We also needed to book in for breakfast. It was just wonderful to go to an Italian Restaurant for a fabulous meal with accompanying wine. So different from our little packet meal each night at the Airbnb.  Mind you, the price tag was a shock.
So here we are on the tropical expensive section of our trip. Yes, we shall enjoy.

Wednesday, 6 July 2016

Tues 5 July
Our Riverside Hotel tariff included breakfast much to our delight. We were given keys to get into the Hotel via a back gate and a door leading from the internal courtyard. So in we went for the self-service repast. And yes, we found a room with a fridge, loaf of bread, a bottle of milk, two packets of cornflakes, a toaster, a tub of marg, a jar of coffee, a packet of teabags, and 2 varieties of marmalade.  Well, that's breakfast, isn't it. Not a mouse stirred in the place, so we cleaned our teeth and left.
We had been advised to head south to York next. What a glorious drive that was through hundreds (thousands? ) of hectares of canola oil plantation. Photos can't the capture the beauty because of the size of the golden pastures.
Eventually we arrived in the Shire of York which really did display the opulent Victorian and Federation buildings adthe vertised. We were relieved that a couple of the Alfresco cafes were open although noone was sitting outside in those temperatures. Of greatest interest to us was the motor vehicle museum featuring the ute used in Crocodile Dundee.
I was keen to get to Toodyay (2J) which was described as the tidest town in Australia and was awarded the iconic Keep Australia Beautiful trophy for 2015 as well as several WA State Heritage awards. Well, somebody had packed it all away for the winter, but we found a bakery and a brand new loo, so who's complaining?
Nothing for it then but for me to drive back into the outer suburbs of Perth and let Peter have his afternoon snooze. Need I tell you how delighted we were to get back to our own unit and tuck up in some comfort and our unequalled view.of
Unfortunately Peter was up most of the night with a stomach that was revolting.


Wed 6 July
Our Airbnb hostess had offered to take us on a tour of the elite suburbs of Perth. It was wonderful to be chauffeured around among such munificence with a constant commentary from this colourful Iranian.
After lunch in Fremantle she returned us to our unit so that Peter could go on a hunt for a disused airfield at Mayland, on the banks of the Swan.
So tomorrow it's goodbye to Perth and the cold and hello to Broome and the heat. A major wardrobe change ahead.

Tuesday, 5 July 2016

Mon July 4th
Today we decided to have a drive into the country out east and explore the Swan and Avon Valleys. The Swan Valley is about 30 minutes from our unit. Think Martin borough. It bills itself as a 32 km loop comprising more than 150 wineries, restaurants,  cafes, breweries, distilleries, art galleries, farm gates, and other attractions.  Of course we hit Monday in the middle of winter so most of it was shut. Have I mentioned how bitterly cold it is? However, the 2 chocolate factories were bustling it being school holidays, so Peter was totally happy. He agreed to have morning coffee in a lavender shop to allow me to avoid the nauseating smell of the chocolate.  We stocked up on two cheeses at The Cheese Barrel, a vast improvement on Coles Australian Cheddar.
I also wanted to explore the Avon Valley so we sallied forth on the 90 km drive through the Kwolyine National Reserve to the next major shire of Northam.  We got there just before they stopped serving lunch at 3.30 so we were extremely fortunate to get the last of the steaming vegetable soup. Then into the huge new visitors' centre to find out the delights of Northam.  Chatting to the entertaining woman there we said we intended walking around the historic buildings there and then driving back to Perth in the evening. You can't, said she. Why not, we said  Because of the roos, said she. Roos? What are they?  Well she just loved that one!!! Here she had 2 elderly Kiwis who didn't know what kangaroos were. It's not that exactly. It's just that we didn't know they would prevent us from drivg back to Perth in the evening.  Nobody told us that that's when they come out to play Russian roulette with cars on the Great Eastern Highway.
So, plan B. Stay overnight.  It was actually too cold to explore the delights of Northam by then anyway. So she rang one place which was fully booked and then said we'd have to stay in the Riverside Hotel. That's OK.  An hotel sounds just the ticket. I must confess I was a tad surprised by the lack of choice. But I talked to the booking man and hey presto we were all organised. Off we trotted in the gloom and bought the requisite toothbrushes before driving all the way around the corner to the Riverside Hotel, an historic building. There was no sign of a river, but a very young man looked astonished when we said we were booked in for the night and gave us a key to a row of tin sheds out the back.  We applied the key and walked into our tiny icebox. Yes, there was a bed. Yes, it had a heater.  It occupied one wall on one side of the bed. When Peter found a lead to and a plug this great monstrosity sprang into life. Think the inside of a concrete mixer. However, 30 mins later, it produced some heat. There was a TV which screened the Aussie news intermittently. Election, dead body in a suitcase just down river from our unit , and P contaminated rental properties. With no Internet access and no personal comforts, Peter was not impressed. However, once we made our way to the crowded dining room, found some alcohol and some excellent hot food, we resumed our cordial relationship and had a pleasant evening.  On reading the writeup of Northam,  there was no mention of accommodation.  It's a commercial centre that is not built for tourists.  Our accommodation was what was offered to trucks over-nightingale.
With the help of the wine, and a superb thick duvet, and turning off the concrete mixer, we slept the night away.

Sunday, 3 July 2016

Sun 3 July
Today we made a valiant effort to be on our way earlier than 10.00 am.  This resulted in us being parked at Elizabeth Quay as the bells rang 9 o'clock. Our Captain Cook Cruise boat left in 40 mins so we had time to wander around the Quay, take photos and walk across the creative foot/cycle way. It was Soooo cold and starting to rain by the time we joined the queue of Asians to board the vessel. We could only get seats in the central block which was so disappointing after our early start. Once we left the jetty the rain really set in forcing even the intrepid to seek shelter in the already crowded cabin. Because people kept breathing, the windows fogged up. Not a pleasant 1 1/4 hour journey to Fremantle although our skipper regaled us with eye-watering stories of the establishment of the multi-million dollar mansions lining the Swan coastline. Some very big iron-ore magnates have vast estates on the coast.
Upon alighting at Fremantle Peter caught the free tram for a town circuit but I chose another lot of markets. I also finished up at a Moroccan cafe in the sun wrapped up in their rug listening to a delightful string duo. Peter returned as the much bigger river cruise boat was about to cast off and we found ourselves seats on the upper deck where we had uninterrupted views of the environs. Dolphins escorted us for a way up river. A far more enjoyable trip.
Of course Peter was suffering from a lack of food, so after a 2.45 lunch on the Quay we jumped into our Kia and drove to the Kings Park to find the treetop walkway I had read about. Well, we drove and we drove through this 400 hectare garden until we eventually found a small sign Walkway. And that was the only signage for their magnificent treetop bridge opened recently to allow visitors to walk over the canopy of some of the 3,000 species of the State's unique native flora.
That left just enough time for us to drive to the Jandicot airfield for inspection before yet another splendid sunset.
Such a full and varied day.